A review across the periodic table of tanning effects of simple inorganic compounds reveals that many elements are capable of being used to make leather. But, if the practical criteria of effectiveness, availability, toxicity and cost are applied, the useflul options reduce to chromium (III) the benchmark orto titanium (IV) zucomum (V) iron (II/III) and aluminium (II) For mainly environmental reasons, alternative tanning agents to chromium are needed, However. none so far investigated match the all round properties achieved with chromium (III) salts. In tanning terms, the chemistry of titanium (IV) is dominated by the titanyl ion, TiO2, limiting its reactivity with collagen. An alternative approach to titanium tanning, using metastable titanium (III) salts as possible tanning agents, was investigated in this study. A method to determine the titanium content in leathers was developed. Complexes of Ti (III) were investigated using various spectroscopic techniques, including uv/vis spectroscopy, electron spin resonance, electron nuclear double resonance and nuclear magnetic resonance dispersion spectroscopies. The complexes used in subsequent tanning studies were based on titanium (III) citrate, gluconate and tartrate. However, in comparative trials with chromium (III) salts, the study highlighted that titanium (III) salts were not suitable for tanning collagen. Titanium (III) saks were found to be useflul in the production of semi- metal tamlages. The research was extended to investigate the hydrothermal shrinking of tanned collagen. Techniques such as extended x-ray absorption — fine structure and x-ray absorption near structure were used to investigate the interaction of chromium (III) tanning salts and titanium (III) complexes with collagen. The research demonstrated that the shrinking reaction is independent of the tannage. It involves instead the breaking of hydrogen bonds, rather than the breakdown of the tannin-collagen molecule. From this work, and a reappraisal of older work on the shrinking reaction, a new theory of tanning has been formulated based on co-operating units and the role of crystallinity in stabilising the collagen structure. The influence of the solvent is also discussed

Necin bark (1zadirach1a indica) contains a mixture of complex chemical components identified as: One procyanidin trirner Four dimers Cl Epicatechin-[4a-8j-epicatechin epicatechin. B1 Epicatechin- [4[3-8]-catechin, B2 Epicatechin- [43-8]-epicatechin, B3 Catechin-[4ct-81-catechin, B4 Catechin-[4a-81-epicatechin. Four well known monomers (+)-Catechin, (-)-Epicatechin, (+)-Gallocatechin, (-)-Epigallocatechin. Other compounds Quercetin, Kaempferol, Fisetin and Gallic acid These compounds were characterised by chromatographic and spectroscopic techniques, including by thiolytic degradation with toluene-a-thiol and using acetylated and methyl derivatives. Structural elucidation of the cleavage products was by ‘H-NMR. The backbone of the isolated compounds consisted mainly of a mixture of flavan-3-ol units with 2R- configuration. The purity of monomers, dimers and trimer was checked by HPLC on Lichrosorb RP8 column. The molecular weight distribution ranges between 250 and 5500 and the average molecular weight distribution was found to be 1550 by gel permeation chromatography. Gas chromatography-mass spectroscopy demonstrated the complex nature of NBT molecular masses consist of monomeric, dimeric and trimeric units of procyanidin B and C types respectively. IR and FT-IR spectroscopy results were consistent with the rest of the techniques used. The hydrothermal stability of neem bark tannin tanned and crosslinked hide powder and leathers was found to be paralleled to mimosa tannin extract. Studies of the physical properties of tanned and retanned leathers showed corn pai.ahility of micem bark tannins with mimosa tannin extract

Hides and skins have been a resource that has created a wide range of activities such as clothing and footwear of all types, saddlery and riding equipment, travel goods and upholstery were amongst many industries using leather. This dissertation uses historical documentation to investigate the interactions of a small UK company working mostly in the USA that had a pivotal role in the transformation of the network surrounding the production, distribution and use of leather in the late 19th century. As an extended historical analysis it offers a particularly wide perspective on the complex and continuing network outcomes of that networking and the innovations to which it leads. This historical research location also provides an opportunity to examine innovation within the context of network evolution over many decades.

The conflict between two major ideal types of Indian leather production – the “historic” and the “global capital” has created a classic case of sociological ambivalence in recent decades. This dissertation relies on interviews, content analysis of leather industry journals, and secondary data on Indian society to examine the sources and consequences of this ambivalence and the ways in which key actors in the industry are trying to address it. First, I outline the characteristics of what I call the “historical type,” that is, the leather industry of the past through 1990 following Max Weber’s comparative historical method of the “ideal type,”. Next, I explore the characteristics of the “global capital” model of leather production emerging as India becomes increasingly integrated into the global economic system. These industry journals present an image of the new global capital type of leather industry. They provide a mechanism for socializing the industry’s managers into the world of contemporary industry by providing the reader with information about the latest fashion trends and technological innovations that a successful global exporter must understand if their company is going to survive the sea change occurring in the global scene. The journals also present to their prospective markets, the new face of Indian leather: a sophisticated, rational, and creative industry that parallels the well-known quality of the Indian IT industry, in contrast to the small-scale, village industry where much of the production takes place in small facilities. The final chapter explores the implications of the structured ambivalence created by the clash between these two models: the industry’s managers who are caught between a labor-pool rooted in rural India and the winds of global capitalism and how they mediate between the two. It examines the inevitable oscillations between a historic India with its kinship-based, small-scale village oriented culture that protects the cow, and the fast-paced world of global capital with its rational-bureaucratic large-scale social organization and a corporate culture that protects the generation of profit. This study provides an up-close look at the consequences of global economic change for local cultures and the daily lives of individuals who face it. / text

Kraft lignin degradation by a biomimetic system was investigated, using haemin and hydrogen peroxide, which mimics the catalytic mechanism of lignin peroxidase to produce phenolic compounds. The degradation products were identified using spectroscopic methods and gas chromatography-mass spectrometry. 2-methoxyphenol, 4-hydroxybenzaldehyde, vanillin and vanillic acid were produced and their formaldehyde polymerisation products were used for tanning collagen. The denaturation (shrinkage) temperature of collagen was raised to 80°C through hydrogen bonding interactions between the polymers and the protein. For dyeing of hide powder, the lignin degradation products were reacted with laccase (a polyphenol oxidase); 2-methoxyphenol gave the darkest colour. These products have potential to be used as raw materials for tanning and dyeing of animal skins. Therefore, this can add value to the industrial byproduct (Kraft lignin) and reduce its environmental impact. Polyphenols are the basic building blocks of natural skin and hair pigments: they can be polymerised to create versions of natural black, brown and orange melanins. These reactions can be catalysed by laccase; not only do they create colour, but also if they are conducted in the presence of collagen, the resulting pigment is bound to the leather in a covalent tanning manner. Therefore, the leather becomes coloured by a lightfast pigment, which is firmly fixed. It appears to be a feature of this type of stabilising mechanism for collagen, the creation of a polyphenol matrix around the triple helix, that it has the added benefit of actually strengthening the leather. Since every traditional process step effectively weakens collagen, especially tanning, this is the first chemical reaction that has been shown to reverse that effect. Leather tanning reactions between collagen and dihydroxynaphthalenes (DHNs) and oxazolidine have been investigated, using hide powder and sheepskin pickled pelt. This investigation showed that some DHNs have a tanning effect on collagen. The measurement of combined and cross-linked DHNs on collagen showed that 30-40% of 1,6- and 2,6-DHNs were fixed through covalent bonding. Shrinkage temperature of the leather changed little after the non combined DHNs had been removed from the leather, indicating that the high stability of the combination tanned leather comes from the covalent bonding formed between DHNs and collagen through oxazolidine.

Thesis(M.S.)--Auburn University, 2006. / Abstract. Vita. Includes bibliographic references.

Orientador: Aldo Eloizo Job / Banca: Mariselma Ferreira / Banca: Ana Maria Pires / O Programa de Pós Graduação em Ciência e Tecnologia de Materiais, tem caráter institucional e integra as atividades de pesquisa em materiais de diversos campi / Resumo: Neste trabalho é apresentado um processo de descontaminação do resíduo industrial de couro visando à produção de colágeno, além de contribuir para a minimização dos impactos ambientais e promover o desenvolvimento sustentável nos curtumes. O processo utilizado para a descontaminação do resíduo industrial de couro é denominado descromagem e consiste na remoção do cromo da cadeia por meio de um tratamento químico, resultando em fibras constituintes de colágeno, denominado neste trabalho de resíduo descromado, que possui uso potencial na fabricação de cosméticos, adesivos, agentes de fabricação e fabricação de filmes. Na descromagem, também é gerado um efluente rico em Cr6- que por meio de tratamento químico, pode ser reduzido a Cr3- e reutilizado no processo de curtimento. Desta forma, o presente trabalho se baseia na reversibilidade do processo de curtimento a partir da extração de matéria-prima de um resíduo que é gerado em toneladas nos curtumes. A fim de avaliar a eficiência do processo de descromagem determinou-se a concentração em % de cromo removido do resíduo, e em seguida o material foi caracterizado utilizando as técnicas de análise molecular por meio de espectroscopia no infravermelho (FT-IR) e Raman, e análises térmicas (DSC, TG). Já no efluente foi realizado tratamento químico com a finalidade de reduzir o Cr6+ a Cr3+, para ser reutilizado no processo de curtimento, como sulfato básico de cromo. Os resultados obtidos confirmaram a eficácia do processo, alcançando 99,29% de eficiência de remoção de cromo. Por meio das análises moleculares e térmicas foi possível confirmar a presença de colágeno, além de verificar o bom estado de conservação do mesmo confirmado que o processo não implicou na degradação da estrutura do colágeno. Além disso, foi possível transformar o efluente resultante da descromagem em sulfato básico de cromo, com teor de basicidade próximo ao do... / Abstract: This work is based on a treatment of chrome shavings, which allows the decontamination of the chromium containing in leather waste in order to obtain collagen. In addition, this project contributes to the reduction of environmental impacts and to promote the sustainable development in tanneries industries. The process is called dechroming and it is based on a chemistry treatment which results in collagen fibers called in this work as dechromed waste. This new material has potential applications such as cosmetics, adhesives, finishing agents or film forming. In the dechroming is also generate an effluent rich in Cr6+, that could be treated and reduced to Cr3+ which can be reused in the tanning process. So, this work is based on the reversibility of the tanning process by the extraction of a new product from the leather waste that is work is based on the reversibility of the tanning process by the extraction of a new product form the leather waste that is generated in tones on the tanneries The deschromed waste underwent to a toxicity study to determine how much chrome was removed, in addition it was characterized through the infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR), Raman spectroscopy and thermal analyses (DSC, TG). The effluent was chemically treated in order to reduce the Cr6+ to Cr3+, to be reused in the tanning process as a basic chromium sulfate. The results confirm the dechroming efficiency achieving 99,29% of chrome removed. Through the structural and thermal analyses it was possible to confirm that the dechromed waste is contributed basically of collagen, that is conserved proving that the process doesn't degrated the collagen structure. It was concluded too that is possible to prepare a basic chromium sulfate with basicity similar with the commercial product / Mestre

Made available in DSpace on 2015-08-20T17:10:01Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 0 Previous issue date: 2015-03-06. Added 1 bitstream(s) on 2015-08-20T17:26:01Z : No. of bitstreams: 1 000844529.pdf: 3160623 bytes, checksum: 1e7027c40f4dbc29ab871609621e4426 (MD5) / Neste trabalho é apresentado um processo de descontaminação do resíduo industrial de couro visando à produção de colágeno, além de contribuir para a minimização dos impactos ambientais e promover o desenvolvimento sustentável nos curtumes. O processo utilizado para a descontaminação do resíduo industrial de couro é denominado descromagem e consiste na remoção do cromo da cadeia por meio de um tratamento químico, resultando em fibras constituintes de colágeno, denominado neste trabalho de resíduo descromado, que possui uso potencial na fabricação de cosméticos, adesivos, agentes de fabricação e fabricação de filmes. Na descromagem, também é gerado um efluente rico em Cr6- que por meio de tratamento químico, pode ser reduzido a Cr3- e reutilizado no processo de curtimento. Desta forma, o presente trabalho se baseia na reversibilidade do processo de curtimento a partir da extração de matéria-prima de um resíduo que é gerado em toneladas nos curtumes. A fim de avaliar a eficiência do processo de descromagem determinou-se a concentração em % de cromo removido do resíduo, e em seguida o material foi caracterizado utilizando as técnicas de análise molecular por meio de espectroscopia no infravermelho (FT-IR) e Raman, e análises térmicas (DSC, TG). Já no efluente foi realizado tratamento químico com a finalidade de reduzir o Cr6+ a Cr3+, para ser reutilizado no processo de curtimento, como sulfato básico de cromo. Os resultados obtidos confirmaram a eficácia do processo, alcançando 99,29% de eficiência de remoção de cromo. Por meio das análises moleculares e térmicas foi possível confirmar a presença de colágeno, além de verificar o bom estado de conservação do mesmo confirmado que o processo não implicou na degradação da estrutura do colágeno. Além disso, foi possível transformar o efluente resultante da descromagem em sulfato básico de cromo, com teor de basicidade próximo ao do... / This work is based on a treatment of chrome shavings, which allows the decontamination of the chromium containing in leather waste in order to obtain collagen. In addition, this project contributes to the reduction of environmental impacts and to promote the sustainable development in tanneries industries. The process is called dechroming and it is based on a chemistry treatment which results in collagen fibers called in this work as dechromed waste. This new material has potential applications such as cosmetics, adhesives, finishing agents or film forming. In the dechroming is also generate an effluent rich in Cr6+, that could be treated and reduced to Cr3+ which can be reused in the tanning process. So, this work is based on the reversibility of the tanning process by the extraction of a new product from the leather waste that is work is based on the reversibility of the tanning process by the extraction of a new product form the leather waste that is generated in tones on the tanneries The deschromed waste underwent to a toxicity study to determine how much chrome was removed, in addition it was characterized through the infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR), Raman spectroscopy and thermal analyses (DSC, TG). The effluent was chemically treated in order to reduce the Cr6+ to Cr3+, to be reused in the tanning process as a basic chromium sulfate. The results confirm the dechroming efficiency achieving 99,29% of chrome removed. Through the structural and thermal analyses it was possible to confirm that the dechromed waste is contributed basically of collagen, that is conserved proving that the process doesn't degrated the collagen structure. It was concluded too that is possible to prepare a basic chromium sulfate with basicity similar with the commercial product

Orientador: Newton Müller Pereira / Dissertação (mestrado) - Universidade Estadual de Campinas, Instituto de Geociências / Made available in DSpace on 2018-08-22T22:57:58Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Oliveira_RenanDias_M.pdf: 6522575 bytes, checksum: c10bf34713bf159360439076c3b3b0d7 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2013 / Resumo: A cidade paulista de Bocaina, situada no centro do estado, tem no tingimento e acabamento do couro sua principal atividade - assim como diversos pequenos e médios municípios brasileiros - e pode ser considerada um exemplo claro do conflito que opõe desenvolvimento econômico e preservação ambiental. Conhecida nacionalmente como a "capital da luva de raspa", a localidade enfrentou entre as décadas de 1970 e 2000 um crescimento desenfreado da atividade coureira, que se mantém na região há cerca de cinquenta anos. A partir da última década (anos 2000) as práticas de inovação tecnológica resultaram em redimensionamentos da questão ambiental. O estudo de caso nas indústrias de tingimento e acabamento de couro (curtumes) do município de Bocaina-SP procuraram verificar como as práticas inovativas no contexto local incorporam variáveis ambientais. O intuito foi diagnosticar se as novas técnicas e tecnologias adotadas por curtumes da região têm contribuído para a diminuição dos impactos ambientais causados em decorrência da atividade coureira, e se as novas práticas inovativas têm indicado para um modelo de desenvolvimento local sustentável. Um ramo produtivo historicamente marcado pela contaminação ao ambiente natural e à saúde humana, como o setor coureiro, pode redefinir seus rumos e construir padrões de produção mais sustentáveis. A participação dos setores sociais envolvidos com o mesmo, como os empresários, as populações locais diretamente envolvidas, os movimentos sociais e sindicais de cunho ambientalista e as instâncias de poder público têm redefinido as políticas públicas e a gestão das empresas para a melhoria das condições ambientais. Assim, este início de século aponta que os rumos da Ciência e da Tecnologia (C&T) podem estar ligados a um desenvolvimento efetivamente sustentável / Abstract: The city of São Paulo Bocaina, located in the center of the state, has in the dyeing and finishing of leather its main activity - as well as many small and medium sized municipalities - and can be considered a clear example of the conflict between economic development and environmental preservation. Known nationally as the "capital of glove scrapes", the locale faced between the 1970s and 2000's unbridled growth coureira activity, which remains in the region for nearly fifty years. From the last decade (2000s) the practices of technological innovation resulted in resizing the environmental issue. The case study in the industries of dyeing and finishing of leather (tanning) of the municipality of Bocaina-SP tried to verify how innovative practices in the local context incorporate environmental variables. The aim was to diagnose whether the new techniques and technologies adopted by tanneries in the region have contributed to the reduction of environmental impacts caused as a result of the activity coureira, and innovative new practices have indicated a model for sustainable local development. A productive branch historically marked by contamination to the natural environment and human health, as the leather sector may redefine its direction and build more sustainable patterns of production. The participation of social groups involved with it, as entrepreneurs, local people directly involved, the social and union movements of an environmental nature and instances of public power have redefined public policy and business management for the improvement of environmental conditions. So, early this century shows that the directions of Science and Technology (S & T) may be linked to a sustainable development effectively / Mestrado / Politica Cientifica e Tecnologica / Mestre em Política Científica e Tecnológica

Ce travail décrit la mise au point de onze nouvelles méthodes analytiques répondant aux exigences règlementaires REACh et à la protection des consommateurs. La première méthode permet de doser des substances dangereuses dans l’eau (RSDE) et en milieu polaire. Un protocole d’extraction unique du milieu aqueux qui permet de doser 75 substances prioritaires dans les eaux douces et résiduaires. Six méthodes instrumentales différentes sur des appareils aux caractéristiques diverses ont été associées pour obtenir des résultats beaucoup plus précis que ce qui se faisait auparavant et près des deux tiers des substances du groupe RSDE ont été analysées pour la première fois. Toutes les limites de quantification sont conformes aux exigences de la Directive Cadre Eaux ou d'autres normes Européennes. L'une des six méthodes permet d'établir précisément l’indice d’hydro– carbures volatils dans les eaux. Ce calcul n’était pas possible au laboratoire auparavant. Il s'appuie sur la méthode par espace de tête statique couplée à une analyse GC-FID/MS . La limite de quantification à 30 μg/L remplit facilement les exigences des normes françaises et européennes. Une autre nouvelle méthode analyse les résidus médicamenteux dans les eaux. Un couplage LCMS/ MS a été initié et une grande partie du travail de développement a été réalisé sans permettre une finalisation complète de la méthode en termes de fiabilité et robustesse. La septième méthode s'intéresse à 27 substances préoccupantes issues de l’annexe XIV de REACh qui peuvent maintenant être quantifiées de façon robuste et fiable et aux teneurs réglementaires de 0,1% en masse, soit 1000 mg/kg ou moins, par couplage de la GC à la spectrométrie de masse (MS). C'est encore la technique GC qui a été mise en oeuvre pour quantifier les composés organiques volatils (COV) dans les cuirs et les textiles. Certains de ces COV figurent dans le règlement REACh ou dans la norme sur la sécurité des jouets. La méthode originale développée couple la technique d’introduction des composés dite espace de tête ou headspace (HS) en anglais à un appareil HS-GC couplé à la MS. 28 molécules volatiles membres des COV préoccupants peuvent être quantifiées à 2,5 mg/kg. La chromatographie en phase liquide (HPLC) est utilisée pour les neuf et dixième méthodes mises au point. L'une traite des retardateurs de flamme phosphatés analysables dans les cuirs et textiles. Neuf de ces composés sont maintenant analysable par le laboratoire par HPLC-MS /MS avec validation avec une limite de quantification à 5 mg/kg, exception faite de l’oxyde de triaziridinyl phosphine (TEPA) dans le cuir. L'autre méthode est une amélioration d’une méthode existante HPLC-DAD pour la détermination des agents de conservation biocides dans le cuir. La récente technique UHPLC-DAD a permis une analyse de qualité équivalente dans un temps réduit trois fois et utilisant beaucoup moins de solvants. La limite de quantification associée est conforme : à 20 mg/kg pour les quatre biocides étudiés. La onzième et dernière méthode développée permet de déterminer des polluants halogénes par GC-MS/MS / Pas de résumé anglais