Master-Arbeit Univ. St. Gallen, 2007.

Made available in DSpace on 2016-03-15T19:43:24Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Carolina Boari Caraciola.pdf: 2530992 bytes, checksum: a4d22054f3ae11364c5b4a48056888c7 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2008-08-19 / Fundo Mackenzie de Pesquisa / Through an interdisciplinary analysis of elements belonging to the fields related to the art and the history of the culture, this study seeks to investigate the interaction among art, publicity and luxury. From understanding the theory related to the de-aureateness of the artwork, proposed by Walter Benjamin - thinker of the School of Frankfurt - we have as a scope to scan in what measure and in what form the publicity takes part in the merchandise aureateness process. In order to achieve this purpose, we elected as a research object the advertising campaign of the brand Louis Vuitton (spring / summer 2007), being drawn, from the luxury market research, from the brand’s history, as well as from the historical scenario where it has been developed, the context necessary for analyzing the said campaign and for understanding the role of publicity in the process of de-aureateness related to the artwork and consequent aureateness of the merchandise. / Por meio de uma análise interdisciplinar de elementos pertencentes aos campos da arte e da história da cultura, o presente estudo busca investigar a interação entre arte, publicidade e luxo. A partir do entendimento da teoria da desauratização da obra de arte, proposta por Walter Benjamin - pensador da Escola de Frankfurt - tem-se como escopo esquadrinhar em qual medida e de que forma a publicidade participa do processo de auratização da mercadoria. Para alcançar esse objetivo, elegeu-se como objeto de pesquisa a campanha publicitária da marca Louis Vuitton (primavera/ verão 2007), traçando-se, a partir do estudo do mercado do luxo, do histórico da grife, bem como do cenário histórico em que esta se desenvolveu, o contexto necessário para a análise da referida campanha e para a compreensão do papel da publicidade no processo de desauratização da obra de arte e conseqüente auratização da mercadoria.

Applying semiotic analysis to advertisements and their context leads to the discovery of associations and symbols, potential increasing the trust the spectator has on the brand. In this thesis, I provide semiotic analysis of selected Louis Vuitton advertisements and their context, where I analyse the advertisement's visual images and narrative line, and infer associations and symbols. The analysis enhances average day factors, full of duties and stress, making them more appealing in the advertisement world.The primary focus for the analysis will be the Spirit of Travel2 advertisement. I will apply semiotic analysis to the elaborate, dream-like, and pleasantly-toned piece of art contained in this advertisement.The philosophical nature throughout the advertisement is connected to the promoted material goods, such as travel cases, and it binds a line of advertisements with an abstract motive defined through "The Journey" (the journey as a life itself). The content of the advertisement is not as it seems at first sight. The narrative level is quazi-philosophical, yet it is strategically presenting a question without an immediate, initial answer. The resulting cognitive dissonance then creates pressure on the spectator. The question is later answered in the advertisement, and a special trust between the...

This dissertation examines the nature of luxury and luxury branded products, and the meanings attached to them. This is the first study of its kind as materials, manufacturing, sales and marketing processes are analyzed in relation to the retail environment to establish tiers of luxury relevant in today’s global market. Existing literature about the definitions and implementation of marketing strategies that impact on luxury brands (e.g. Danziger, 2005; Kapferer et al, 2009; and Okonkwo, 2007) demonstrate a lack of clarity as marketeers concentrate on adding value to mass produced products. In essence, terminology is employed, it is argued, that artificially elevates the product by attribution. The dissertation goes on to examine the complexity of the marketing tools used to add value to mass-produced products and a taxonomy of luxury is established to differentiate categories of products. Luxury is a single category that is demonstrably unstable and it is manifested in the changing landscape of the luxury brand market which is considered as part of the fashion cycle where luxury brands continue to extend their product offer to satisfy a continually growing consumer market. Branding has become increasingly important and as a result the proposed taxonomy of the luxury and luxury brands market contributes to a better understanding of the sector. Distinctions are made through the use of three Case Studies (Louis Vuitton, Prada and Tanner Krolle) to address the differences between the luxury and luxury brand markets through the analysis of products within the leather goods category. Thus this dissertation redefines concepts of luxury that are established through new materials, techniques and production methods. Existing definitions of luxury are unstable due to an ever changing cyclical market and are exacerbated by marketing, branding, advertising and mass production. It is important to remove the façade of marketing and branding, despite, or because, of them being powerful forms of communication, in order to provide a perspective that acknowledges the change and importance of fashion business methodologies to ensure business growth. At the same time it is also important to recognize the fundamental significance of luxury brand heritage and the convenient message this sends to the consumer. This work provides an important new platform for future research in terms of a more nuanced debate on luxury in all its guises. Evidence of the broad research potential of this dissertation exists, for example, in the growing demand for luxury and luxury branded products and services of the emerging economies in the BRICS (Brazil, Russia, India, China and South Africa) countries. In addition as the market changes and demands for luxury increases, luxury and luxury brand companies could use this research to connect more meaningfully to their heritage when defining new luxury goods and services. It is evident that concepts of luxury will continue to be defined as part of a complex structure of understanding and interpretation. In light of this, one must not lose sight of the importance of the knowledge of the craftsmen and women and their ability to communicate the intricacies of their skills in order to provoke and challenge the perpetuating luxury debate.

The implementation of this research increases the awareness of the value for luxury fashion brands in utilizing social media as a communication channel to reach young consumers globally. It provides a general understanding of young consumers’ perception of luxury fashion brands on social media in regards to geographic cultural background, attitude towards new luxury, and preferred way of contacts. / Program: Master Programme in Fashion Management

Background - Luxury companies have long been reluctant to adopt the internet as a mode of distribution. A luxury brand’s concept of exclusiveness is seemingly incompatible with the ubiquitous nature of the internet. Hence, many luxury brands are fearful that distributing their products on third-party online retail platforms might decrease the brands’ vital aura of luxury. Purpose - The purpose of this study is to explore consumer perceptions, attitudes and purchase intention towards a luxury brand being distributed on an online multibrand marketplace. This research aims to fill the existing gap on the ambiguous nature of luxury branding and distribution in an online multibrand context. Methodology - A qualitative approach including ten semi-structured interviews with Swedish millennials were conducted. A case study of a hypothetical brand alliance between Louis Vuitton and Amazon was developed, presented and discussed. Collected data was analyzed through thematic analysis. Findings - Results show that the online distribution of a luxury brand did influence consumer perceptions of the luxury brand when seen online. However, it did not result in a change in their overall attitude or purchase intention towards the luxury brand. Additionally, it was found that consumers were not willing to buy luxury on an multibrand marketplace platform.

Syftet med studien är att genom en kvalitativ semiotisk analys se på vad som definierar god smak. Utifrån Bourdieeus (1986) teorier om klass och smak vill jag se på Jeffrree Stars kapital och undersöka vilka markörer det finns för god smak.Min frågeställning lyder: Hur ser Jeffree Stars kapital ut? Vad är det för markörer som representerar god smak i Jeffree Stars fält och hur visualiseras det? För detta ändamål har jag analyserat 5 bilder från Jeffree Stars Instagramkonto, med 15,5 milj. följare. Mitt utfall blev att Jeffree Star har positionerat sig starkt inom sitt fält på Instagram som promotor för sitt eget sminkföretag. Detta innebär att han skapat en doxa, där han propagerar för vad som är god smak, genom att visa upp de kapitalvaror han erhållit genom sin framgång. Detta sker genom self-branding, där gränserna mellan det privata och företaget suddas ut. Vidare framkommer det att Bourdieus teorier idag kan vara svåra att applicera, då det idag sker ett snabbare informationsflöde genom internet och andra parametrar styr bedömningen av kompetens, somi detta fallet antalet följare på Instagram.

Made available in DSpace on 2016-04-26T18:15:00Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Carolina Boari Caraciola.pdf: 5966014 bytes, checksum: 24a092553408ee5f3f923a25ca18b3c1 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2015-03-16 / The aim of this paper is luxury. The word from Latin origin Luxux, refers to abundance, refinement. Until the XVIII century, luxury had a negative connotation by being considered the cause of the sadness and decadence of the people, being considered expenditure beyond necessity. Although the definitions of luxury are ephemeral, the concept appeared in France during the reign of Luis XVI. Then, the bourgeoisie, in the age of modernity, has made use of the luxury to show economic majority. To date, luxury is linked to pleasure, pomp, desire, rarity, good taste, elegance. With the advent of the globalized conglomerates, which detain the most renowned sector brands, the luxury market became highly profitable, available to a growing number of customers who can afford to buy extremely expensive products on demand, or just a scent, wherein both of them provide the magic of the segment; magic which, is to be exploited in the advertisements. In the view of this context, which demands for careful investigations, the purpose of this study was to explore the multiple perspectives of luxury: its origin, meaning and reframing over time, the market, the tendencies, as well the administrative preponderance of globalized conglomerates, its democratization and modernization. Now this matter regards the nature of semiotic attributes on which the luxury brands rely to keep loyalty of their customers. Our hypothesis is that the consumption of luxury became a sign of prestige and differentiation. In contemporary society, luxury is responsible for providing differentiated status to those who wear it. There is not consumption that is not coupled to the enticement of advertisement. The luxury brands cultivate their tradition, pointed out in their advertisements; the symbolic attributes of the products that they make available. Due to being considered as the maison of the most prestigious and feature in the segment of the luxury, Louis Vuitton was taken as corpus of the present work. To develop it, the most important authors of the literature available about the luxury theme were referred to, as well as the pieces of information about the historical evolution of the chosen brand. Starting with the analysis of the brand, since its origin, to the present days, it was possible to determine the transformation that occurred in the luxury segment, as well as the role of the advertising in this process. The communication of luxury products exploits the magic side of the goods that it supplies, enhancing the users prestigious, by acting as a kind of extended ego. Through the application of Charles Sanders Peirce semiotics in one of two ads of the advertising campaign called Journey, of Louis Vuitton, whose themes are the trips of personalities who mark their field of work, it was possible to conclude that there was a transformation in the advertising messages of the goods: until 2007, Louis Vuitton used models with little human expression and emphasized the product as the main character of the narrative; after the Journey campaign, the strategy of communication was the brand humanization, linking itself with humanitarian causes, reframing luxury through values like altruism, benevolence, drafting their features of tradition and rarity, however, minimizing the aspects connected to pomposity / O objeto de estudo deste trabalho é o luxo. A palavra originária do latim luxux, refere-se à abundância, refinamento. Até o século XVIII, o luxo possuia uma conotação negativa, por ser considerado o responsável pela infelicidade e decadência dos povos, sendo definido como um dispêndio além do necessário. Embora as definições de luxo sejam efêmeras, a noção surgiu na França, durante o reinado de Luís XIV. A seguir, a burguesia, na época da modernidade, fez uso do luxo para mostrar superioridade econômica. Contemporaneamente o luxo vinculase a prazer, fausto, desejo, raridade, bom gosto, elegância. Com o surgimento de conglomerados globalizados que detêm as mais renomadas marcas do setor, o mercado de luxo tornou-se altamente lucrativo, disponível a um número cada vez maior de clientes, que pode adquirir produtos caríssimos, sob encomenda, ou apenas um perfume, sendo que ambos proporcionam a magia do segmento, magia esta, a ser explorada nos anúncios publicitários. Diante desse contexto, que reclama por investigações cuidadosas, o objetivo deste estudo foi explorar os múltiplos aspectos do luxo: sua origem, significação e ressignificação através do tempo, o mercado, as tendências, tais como a predominância administrativa de conglomerados globalizados, sua democratização e modernização. A questão que se coloca versa sobre a natureza dos atributos semióticos de que as marcas de luxo se valem para manter a fidelização de seus clientes. Nossa hipótese é que o consumo de luxo tornou-se signo de prestígio e diferenciação. Na sociedade contemporânea, é o luxo que se responsabiliza por conferir status diferenciado a seus usuários. Não há consumo que não esteja atrelado à sedução publicitária. As marcas de luxo cultivam sua tradição, destacando, em suas publicidades, os atributos simbólicos dos produtos que disponibilizam. Por ser considerada a maison de maior prestígio e destaque no segmento, a Louis Vuitton foi tomada como corpus do presente trabalho. Para desenvolvê-lo, recorremos aos autores mais importantes da literatura disponível sobre o tema do luxo e a informações sobre o histórico evolutivo da marca selecionada. A partir da análise da marca, desde sua origem, até os dias atuais, foi possível constatar as transformações ocorridas no segmento de luxo, bem como o papel da publicidade nesse processo. A comunicação de produtos de luxo explora o lado mágico dos artigos que oferta, realçando o prestígio do usuário, ao funcionar como uma espécie de ego estendido. Através da aplicação da semiótica peirciana em dois anúncios da campanha publicitária Journey da Louis Vuitton, cujo tema são as viagens de personalidades que marcaram suas áreas de atuação, foi possível concluir que houve uma transformação nas mensagens publicitárias de produtos de luxo: até o ano de 2007, a Louis Vuitton utilizava modelos com pouca expressão humana e destacava o produto como personagem principal da narrativa; após a campanha Journey, a estratégia de comunicação passou a ser a humanização da marca, vinculando a mesma a causas humanitárias, ressignificando o luxo através de valores como altruísmo, benevolência, destacando suas características de tradição e raridade, porém, minimizando os aspectos ligados à ostentação

Nowadays the world is on the verge of another significant migration of value, the value for corporate world is shifting from providing services to staging experiences for customers. Since it is vital to understand the main characteristics and components of the impending environment, this research is carried out. It is aimed at determining the main elements of the experience economy that could add value to products and the way modern retail companies apply these instruments within their strategies. The purpose of this paper is sufficiently fulfilled by qualitative analysis of three companies from the clothing industry - Benetton Group, Nike, Louis Vuitton. In the paper co-creation, gamification and digitalization are identified as the main instruments of the experience economy that could lead to greater value of the products and additionally contribute to other companies’ brand performance criteria as brand loyalty and brand awareness. Furthermore, the study provides discrepancies between retail companies from the clothing industry in terms of implementing experience economy instruments depending on their market segment, strategy and specialization.

Title: French luxury companies: Challenge to do E-Commerce withoutaffecting their brand image Authors: Clément LEMAIRE and Paul LASSALLE Supervisor: Jean-Charles Languilaire Level: Bachelor Thesis in Business Administration, Marketing Key words: Marketing, E-commerce, E-merchandising, E-CRM, Louis Vuitton, Luxury market, French market, Website, Brand and Reputation Purpose: How French luxury companies, in a context of changing demand, use the e-commerce without affecting the image of their brand? Method: In the method we explain that we decide to use a descriptive method of research. We collect secondary data from our University Library and primary data from our observation of Louis Vuitton website. We also explain why we choose this company and what the limits of our study are. Theoretical framework: In a first part, we have written all the definitions and information about definitions that we have used in the empirical part. It means E-Commerce, E-Merchandising, Marketing mix and ECRM. Then, we have given some information about website elements as the first page, the graphic website, buying process, electronic payment and website security. Finally, we have defined all the information about the brand and its different powers on the market: We start by a “brand awareness” explication, then we have defined “how is build a brand” to finish by the topic “band and reputation”. Conclusions: We present the answer of our purpose. French Luxury companies use marketing tools in order to protect the image of their brand when they do e-commerce. We also bring some suggestions to Louis Vuitton and give some critics concerning our study. Finally we open our reflexion to related studies that could be interesting to do.