Silk-weaving in Sweden during the 19th century. Textiles and texts - An evaluation of the source material. With the rich material available, 19th century silk-weaving invites to studies on industrialisation processes. The purpose of this licentiate thesis is to present and discuss an empirical material regarding silk production in Sweden in the 19th century, to examine the possibilities and problems of different kinds of materials when used as source materials, and to describe how this material can be systematized and analysed in relation to the perspective of a textile scientific interpretation. The introductory sections of the thesis provide a background to textile research and the subject of textile science. This is followed by an overview of previous research on silk-weaving in Sweden and a historical overview of silk-weaving in Sweden, the Jacquard machine, and the K.A. Almgren Sidenväveri, where large parts of the source material have been preserved. After these overviews, the research material is described and systematized: first the main materials, textiles, machines and other objects, and then the various written sources. By way of conclusion, the empirical material is summarized in a critical discussion where the various groups of materials are evaluated in comparison to one another. A discussion on theory and methodology regarding objects as sources and the use of experience-based knowledge in academic research is developed in connection to the critical discussion. Finally, the potential of the material is demonstrated through a textile example. The presentation is an introduction to the cultural-historical analysis that will follow in the PhD thesis. Here, the empirical material will be analysed through the use of knowledge in handicrafts, which may create new dimensions of silk production in Sweden and the complexity of the industrialisation process.

The main purpose of this study is to examine the interaction between practical textilemanagement and the values setting up the theoretical framework. The practical part is examined through 50 local history societies in Sweden participating in a survey set out to map out the presence, management, and element of advisement regarding the textiles. To make the comparison the concepts of ethical responsibility and symbolic worth are used to iron out where ideal and experience meets. This also raises questions regarding maintaining sustainable management and how societies need and take accept guidance. In general, active textile management is done consistently with object-based research but the knowledge of the societies ethical responsibility differs. The practical handling of textiles is also often affected by a lack of resources and knowledge. Both factors affect the width of the societies work actively with the textiles. In short, this comes with a lot of challenges but also has a lot of possibilities to develop further if the present resources are strengthened or developed. The symbolic worth of textiles, even though mostly connected to their usages, is rated high by the societies in general. Also, the interest in textiles is linked to the presence of active management and withholds a willingness to apply practical management according to the theoretical framework. In conclusion, the willingness and interest are somewhat high but when support from the museum sector is done in knowledge and awareness of responsibility, there is a high potential to develop the textile management further.

The return of objects that belong to ethnographic collections to their places of origin is one of the topics of discussion that, despite not being new, has been gaining more and more relevance today. Taking the Iku indigenous craft collection in the archives of the National Museum of World Cultures in Gothenburg as a case study, I pursue to develop an object-based methodology that increases and deepens the understanding of the notion of ethical stewardship, while joining current debates on indigenous heritage and decoloniality. This work aims to reveal material and immaterial aspects embedded in textile objects. The methodology included field visits to the museum archive, material culture analysis, and semi-structured interviews. The work evokes a decolonial discussion regarding the need to engage with epistemologies from the “South” and with methodologies not fully recognized by the dominant western-modern educational frameworks in order to achieve a more inclusive and assertive production of knowledge. / La restitución de colecciones etnográficas a sus lugares de origen es uno de los temas de discusión que, a pesar de no ser nueva, ha ido cobrando cada vez más relevancia en la actualidad. Tomando la colección de artesanía indígena Iku/arhuaca en los archivos del Museo Nacional de las Culturas del Mundo en Gotemburgo como estudio de caso, busco desarrollar una metodología basada en objetos que aumente y profundice la comprensión de la noción de administración ética, mientras me sumo a los debates actuales sobre patrimonio indígena y decolonialidad. Este trabajo tiene como objetivo revelar los aspectos materiales e inmateriales incrustados en los objetos textiles. La metodología incluyó visitas de campo al archivo del museo, análisis de cultura material y entrevistas semiestructuradas. El trabajo evoca una discusión decolonial sobre la necesidad de involucrar epistemologías del “Sur” y metodologías no plenamente reconocidas por los marcos educativos occidentales-modernos dominantes para lograr una producción de conocimiento más inclusiva y asertiva.