Within the last few years, retail sales have averaged an annual growth of about 4% with electronic commerce retail sales averaging an increase of over 20% per year (U.S Census Bureau, 2008). The e-commerce retail sector of apparel, accessories, and footwear reached $18.3 billion in sales and ranked as a top selling category (Shop.org, 2007). A growing apparel market with strong buying power is the plus-size clothing industry with approximately $32 billion in sales in 2005, and an average of about a 10% growth rate each year (Yadegaran, 2006). Despite the growth in the industry, little empirical research has been conducted regarding plus-size Internet apparel shoppers. Additionally the field lacks research that focuses on garment fit for the plus-size market. The purpose of this study was to examine the effects of product presentation factors, visual fit information (size of model photographed) and written fit information (fit related product description), on plus-size women's perceived fit risk, purchase intention, and loyalty intentions in Internet apparel shopping. This study employed a 2 x 2 between subjects' factorial design: visual fit information (plus-size model vs. non plus-size model) by written fit information (more elaborate vs. less elaborate). Four mock web pages were created to closely mimic the design of a true plus-size Internet apparel retailer. Each web page presented a model wearing the same dress for plus-size women and a written product description. The stimuli consisted of an identical dress in color and style, presented on both a plus-size model and a non plus-size model, and similar written fit information with more detailed information about garment style, garment dimensions, and fit editorial presentation for more elaborate stimuli. One hundred fourteen women between the ages of 19 and 64 participated in this study for incentives such as a free plus-size apparel gift-card, using snowball sampling method. Using descriptive statistics, multivariate analyses of variance and univariate analyses of variance, the present research showed (1) no main effects of visual fit information on perceived fit risk, purchase intention, and loyalty intention, and (2) no main effects of written fit information on perceived fit risk, purchase intention and loyalty intention. The study added valuable empirical findings to the literature on the relationship between fit related information and perceived fit risk, purchase intention and loyalty intention among plus-size Internet apparel shoppers. / Master of Science

Nos últimos anos o mercado de moda plus-size, segmento especializado em tamanhos grandes, vem crescendo no Brasil e ganhando relativa visibilidade por meio da construção de seus próprios espaços legitimação - como desfiles, ensaios fotográficos, concursos de beleza, marcas e lojas - e da divulgação feita por blogs e veículos de comunicação. As interlocutoras desta pesquisa, mulheres que se identificam como gordinhas, têm acompanhado de perto a expansão deste mercado, atuando como consumidoras ou como profissionais do segmento e defendendo que não é preciso ser magra para se vestir bem e para se sentir bonita e atraente. Um dos principais objetivos desta pesquisa é investigar este recente boom da moda plus-size, mostrando a importância dos eventos do segmento, dos blogs e dos discursos de profissionais e consumidoras. Outro objetivo importante é analisar de que maneira as interlocutoras, frente aos estereótipos que as definem de maneira negativa em função de sua forma física, procuram construir uma imagem mais positiva de si mesmas e de seus corpos, reelaborando discursos de saúde, beleza e feminilidade. / In the last years, the plus-size fashion market, specialized in larger sizes, has been growing and gaining a relative visibility in Brazil through the constitution of its own spaces of legitimacy - fashion shows, photo shoots, beauty pageants, brands and stores - and its diffusion via blogs and media. The subjects of this research, women who identify themselves as chubby, have closely followed the expansion of this market, acting as consumers or as professionals of this area, supporting it is not necessary be skinny to be well-dressed and to feel beautiful and attractive. A major goal of this research involves investigating this recent boom in plus-size fashion, pointing out the importance of the events, blogs and discourses of professionals and consumers. Another important objective is to analyze how the subjects, facing stereotypes that define them negatively because of their body size and shape, seek to build a more positive image of themselves and their bodies, reworking discourses of health, beauty and femininity.

Nos últimos anos o mercado de moda plus-size, segmento especializado em tamanhos grandes, vem crescendo no Brasil e ganhando relativa visibilidade por meio da construção de seus próprios espaços legitimação - como desfiles, ensaios fotográficos, concursos de beleza, marcas e lojas - e da divulgação feita por blogs e veículos de comunicação. As interlocutoras desta pesquisa, mulheres que se identificam como gordinhas, têm acompanhado de perto a expansão deste mercado, atuando como consumidoras ou como profissionais do segmento e defendendo que não é preciso ser magra para se vestir bem e para se sentir bonita e atraente. Um dos principais objetivos desta pesquisa é investigar este recente boom da moda plus-size, mostrando a importância dos eventos do segmento, dos blogs e dos discursos de profissionais e consumidoras. Outro objetivo importante é analisar de que maneira as interlocutoras, frente aos estereótipos que as definem de maneira negativa em função de sua forma física, procuram construir uma imagem mais positiva de si mesmas e de seus corpos, reelaborando discursos de saúde, beleza e feminilidade. / In the last years, the plus-size fashion market, specialized in larger sizes, has been growing and gaining a relative visibility in Brazil through the constitution of its own spaces of legitimacy - fashion shows, photo shoots, beauty pageants, brands and stores - and its diffusion via blogs and media. The subjects of this research, women who identify themselves as chubby, have closely followed the expansion of this market, acting as consumers or as professionals of this area, supporting it is not necessary be skinny to be well-dressed and to feel beautiful and attractive. A major goal of this research involves investigating this recent boom in plus-size fashion, pointing out the importance of the events, blogs and discourses of professionals and consumers. Another important objective is to analyze how the subjects, facing stereotypes that define them negatively because of their body size and shape, seek to build a more positive image of themselves and their bodies, reworking discourses of health, beauty and femininity.

Antalet kraftiga människor ökar i Sverige enligt Statistiska Centralbyrån. Behovet av kläder i större storlekar har därmed blivit mer utbrett. KappAhl har sedan 1997 haft en kollektion vid namn XLNT som vänder sig till detta marknadssegment. XLNT är idag ett relativt känt och inarbetat varumärke som har vuxit stadigt. För att förbättra kollektionen ytterligare vill KappAhl göra en vidareutveckling av XLNT. Syftet med denna uppsats var att undersöka hur KappAhl ska kunna utveckla och förbättra XLNT kollektionen. För att uppfylla syftet har vi kartlagt de befintliga konkurrenterna H&M, Lindex, Åhléns samt Ellos och deras motsvarigheter till XLNT. Vi har genom kvalitativa undersökningar utrett vad kunderna anser om varumärket i sin helhet med allt ifrån inriktning till varuvisning och marknadsföring. Vidare har vi studerat ett antal marknadsstrategier som är av betydelse för KappAhl och XLNT. I undersökningen kom vi bland annat fram till att konkurrensen mellan KappAhl och ovanstående företag är hård då deras plus-size sortiment inte skiljer sig så mycket från varandra. Vid de kvalitativa intervjuerna framgick det att kunderna är relativt nöjda med XLNT. Vad som framförallt efterfrågas är bättre passformar, kläder med ett tuffare uttryck samt att KappAhl ska visa upp och marknadsföra sin plus-size kollektion. Vi poängterar även vikten av tydlig segmentering, differentiering och positionering. Avslutningen delger förslag till hur KappAhl kan förbättra XLNT med allt ifrån design, marknadsföring och kundrelation. / Program: Textil produktutveckling och entreprenörskap

Thesis (M.S.)--Auburn University, 2007. / Abstract. Vita. Includes survey instruments. Includes bibliographic references (ℓ. 177-187)

Thesis (Ph. D.)--Auburn University. / Abstract. Vita. Includes bibliographical references (p. 136-145).

Over 60% of the adult population in the United Kingdom is now overweight or obese or classed as plus size . This is higher than almost all other developed countries in the world. Even with numerous public health interventions, the incidence of being plus size continues to rise potentially changing the demographics of the working population. This presents a challenge to those involved in workplace design as the design process relies upon the utilization of appropriate anthropometric data to establish the percentage of the user population that will be accommodated by the design. The aim of this thesis is to identify issues affecting plus size people in the working environment, not previously explored within the literature. Furthermore, by understanding the size and shape of this population via the collection of key anthropometric data, this will help inform the design of safe, comfortable, inclusive and productive working environments for plus size people within the United Kingdom. A first stage Scoping Study (n=135) found that fit (equipment, tools, furniture, uniforms and personal protective equipment) and space (circulation and shared spaces within the working environment) were issues of concern to plus size people. This suggests that aspects of the current design of the workplace are not suitable, and may even exclude plus size people. A better understanding of the anthropometric requirements of plus size workers is therefore required. Self-reported anthropometric data is an acceptable way of studying large and geographically diverse populations and may assist in accessing the hard to reach plus size working population. A validation study (n=20) established that self measurement of 14 key anthropometric measurements, using a self measurement instruction guide, was a feasible and acceptable data collection method for a larger scale anthropometric study to further understand the body size and shape of plus size people at work. A unique measure of knee splay (for a non-pregnant population) was included. Defined as the distance between the outer borders of the knees whilst seated in the preferred sitting position it represents the observed sitting postures of plus size individuals not captured in existing anthropometric data sources. The larger scale Plus Size Anthropometry Study (n=101) collected anthropometric data of plus size working age people via self measurement. The findings indicated that the study population was substantially larger in circumference, depth and breadth measurements than the population of existing anthropometric data sources. Knee splay was also identified as a key anthropometric variable for plus size people, however, it is not included in any datasets or literature relating to plus size people at work. These factors may contribute to high exclusion rates from current design practices that seek to accommodate the 5th to 95th or 99th percentile of users and may explain the high incidence of fit and space issues reported by participants with a BMI over 35kg/m2 . Finally, semi structured interviews with stakeholders (n=10) explored how they would like the data from the plus size anthropometry study communicated and any additional requirements of a resource aimed at supporting stakeholders in meeting the needs of plus size people within the working environment. The primary concern from stakeholders was the lack of existing data on the size and shape of the plus size working population and the importance of access to such data in whatever format. A range of ideas were suggested including case studies, guidance and access to training which may assist them in understanding the needs of their end users ultimately supporting the inclusion of plus size people in workplace design.

Body and discourse walk closely in the theoretical field of the Discourse Analysis (DA), because we can comprehend as both subjectivation form (subject’s mean of constitution) and language (in this scope the art-body, for example). For the DA the body surges narrowly related to new formats of the subjectivation and, therefore, associated to the notion of ideology. More than the theoretical object, the body takes part as a dispositive of visualization as a mode of seeing the subject, its circumstances, its historicity and the culture that represent it. It is about of a body that looks at and expose itself to others eyes. Stem from these presuppositions that the feminine plus size body is thought in this dissertation. It is understandable that this body has been marked by different subject-positions as far as the discourses have been heckling and forming these subject-positions of the women, therefore, there is a necessity of nominate the fat bodies and, with that, determine their conditions of existence and visibility. The effects of the media discourses produce this feminine body, always temporary, where the woman turns to be a prisoner of an hegemonic standard of the beauty. Rooted by the theoretical notions of the Discourse Analysis, we analyzed two fashion photographies starred by plus size feminine bodies, being the first an advertising campaign of the brand Valfrance, entitled “Too hot to wear 38” and the second one, the cover of the Magazine ‘Moda Moldes’ special sizes, which has as the protagonist, the singer Preta Gil. / Submitted by Barbara Pavei Souza (barbara.souza5@unisul.br) on 2017-10-03T20:49:18Z No. of bitstreams: 2 license_rdf: 811 bytes, checksum: e39d27027a6cc9cb039ad269a5db8e34 (MD5) DISSERTAÇÃO BÁRBARA PAVEI SOUZA.pdf: 4493006 bytes, checksum: 0bd9c58dd9a0517a83980b3328244ac4 (MD5) / Approved for entry into archive by Karina Ramos Wagner (wagner.karina@unisul.br) on 2017-10-17T19:39:34Z (GMT) No. of bitstreams: 2 license_rdf: 811 bytes, checksum: e39d27027a6cc9cb039ad269a5db8e34 (MD5) DISSERTAÇÃO BÁRBARA PAVEI SOUZA.pdf: 4493006 bytes, checksum: 0bd9c58dd9a0517a83980b3328244ac4 (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2017-10-17T19:39:34Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 2 license_rdf: 811 bytes, checksum: e39d27027a6cc9cb039ad269a5db8e34 (MD5) DISSERTAÇÃO BÁRBARA PAVEI SOUZA.pdf: 4493006 bytes, checksum: 0bd9c58dd9a0517a83980b3328244ac4 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2017-07 / Corpo e discurso andam próximos no campo teórico da Análise de Discurso (AD), pois podemos compreendê-lo tanto como forma de subjetivação (meio de constituição do sujeito), quanto linguagem (nessa esfera o corpo-arte por exemplo). Para a AD o corpo surge estreitamente relacionado a novas formas de assujeitamento e, portanto, associado à noção de ideologia. Mais do que objeto teórico, o corpo comparece como dispositivo de visualização, como modo de ver o sujeito, suas circunstâncias, sua historicidade e a cultura que o constituem; trata-se do corpo que olha e que se expõe ao olhar do outro. É a partir desses pressupostos que o corpo feminino plus size é pensado nessa dissertação. Compreende-se que esse corpo vem sendo marcado por diferentes posições-sujeitos à medida que os discursos vão interpelando e constituindo essas posições-sujeitos das mulheres, sendo assim, sente-se a necessidade de nomear esses corpos gordos e assim determiná-los em suas condições de existência e visibilidade. Este corpo feminino, sempre provisório, é produzido pelo efeito dos discursos midiáticos, onde a mulher passa a ser prisioneira de um padrão hegemônico de beleza. Alicerçados pelas noções teóricas da Análise de Discurso, analisamos duas fotografias de moda protagonizadas por corpos femininos de tamanho grande, sendo a primeira uma campanha publicitária da marca Valfrance, intitulada “Gostosa demais para usar 38” e a segunda, a capa da Revista Moda Moldes tamanhos especiais, na qual tem como artista protagonista, a cantora Preta Gil.

Submitted by Mario BC (mario@bc.ufrpe.br) on 2018-09-10T14:46:21Z No. of bitstreams: 1 Sabrina Pereira dos Santos.pdf: 2253665 bytes, checksum: 1203de9acee95fc21d0e6b084b442714 (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2018-09-10T14:46:21Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Sabrina Pereira dos Santos.pdf: 2253665 bytes, checksum: 1203de9acee95fc21d0e6b084b442714 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2016-02-11 / This dissertation aims to analyze the search within the decision-making process of the consumer (TDC) next to the female audience consumer sets-plus size clothing in department stores and/or specialized in the metropolitan region of Recife. The public identified as plus size women are users of clothes from size GG or 44, which not necessarily are fat or overweight women. For the investigation of the proposed study, a quantitative and qualitative research, theoretical support Consumption indicators sets-clothing (Physical Fitness, Beauty, personal style, Body Exposure, Trial of image and fashion), proposed by Rock (1999), as well as the needs of Maslow (1954), the Fundamental Reasons for the Wear of Flugelhorn (1966) and Consumer Behavior studies of Blackwell et al. (2005) and Solomon (2011). Integrated the theoretical foundation and benchmark the following themes: consumer society; Body, beauty and body patterns; The body in contemporary times; Clothes, clothing, fashion and media; Market and consumption of fashion and clothing; The plus size fashion and consumer behavior. The methodology used for data collection in the field was based on a screenplay by interview and observation. We interviewed 35 women consumers sets-plus size clothing in October 2015. For data analysis, was used the description of the body profile of the respondents; the analysis of the shopping habits of clothes; the analysis of consumption indicators sets-clothing; fashion and trend; measurement and measurement of attitudes and the socio-economic profile. Based on the results, it was possible to observe that the term plus size, very pervasive in the last ten years, does not have its meaning known for 1/3 of the respondents and that despite the same like to buy clothes frequently, they do not feel represented in the market of the Recife metropolitan region. The data made it possible to identify the characteristics of behavior of these consumers of plus size fashion and its relationship with the clothing, fashion and the market. In addition to presenting important data about these for later studies. / A presente dissertação tem como objetivo analisar a etapa de busca dentro do processo de Tomada de Decisão do Consumidor (TDC) junto ao público feminino consumidor de moda-vestuário plus size em lojas de departamento e/ou especializadas da Região Metropolitana do Recife. O público identificado como plus size são mulheres usuárias de roupas a partir do tamanho GG ou 44, que não necessariamente são mulheres gordas ou com sobrepeso. Para a investigação do estudo proposto, foi realizada uma pesquisa quantitativa e qualitativa, que teve como suporte teórico os Indicadores de Consumo de Moda-Vestuário (Adequação Física, Beleza, Estilo Pessoal, Exposição Corporal, Julgamento de Imagem e Moda), propostos por Rocha (1999), bem como as Necessidades de Maslow (1954), os Motivos Fundamentais para o Vestir de Flugel (1966) e os estudos de Comportamento do Consumidor de Blackwell et al. (2005) e Solomon (2011). Integraram a fundamentação teórica e referencial as seguintes temáticas: Sociedade de consumo; Corpo, beleza e padrões corporais; O corpo na contemporaneidade; Roupa, vestuário, moda e mídia; Mercado e consumo de moda-vestuário; A moda plus size e o Comportamento do consumidor. A metodologia utilizada para coleta de dados no campo baseou-se em roteiro de entrevista e observação. Foram entrevistadas 35 mulheres consumidoras de moda-vestuário plus size no mês de outubro de 2015.Para análise dos dados, foi utilizada a descrição do perfil corporal das respondentes; a análise dos hábitos de compras de roupas; a análise dos indicadores de consumo de moda-vestuário; moda e tendência; mensuração e medição das atitudes e o perfil sócio-econômico. Com base nos resultados, foi possível observar que a expressão plus size, muito difundida nos últimos dez anos, não tem seu significado conhecido por 1/3 das entrevistadas e que apesar das mesmas gostarem de comprar roupas com frequência, elas não se sentem representadas no mercado da Região Metropolitana do Recife. Os dados apresentados possibilitaram identificar as características de comportamento destas consumidoras de moda plus size e sua relação com a roupa, a moda e o mercado. Além de apresentar dados importantes sobre estas para estudos posteriores.

Plus size är ett växande kundsegment som idag har blivit i stort sett negligerat av klädbranschen både nationellt och internationellt. Med ett begränsat utbud och brist på inspirerande butiksavdelningar har allt fler konsumenter slutat att handla i fysisk butik och istället övergått till att handla på nätet. Detta har inspirerat till en undersökning av hur svenska kvinnliga modemedvetna plus size konsumenter i olika åldrar upplever fysiska klädbutikers servicescape. I studien har en kvantitativ metod, surveyundersökning online, genomförts där bekvämlighetsurval använts som grund. 121 modemedvetna plus size kvinnor uttryckte sin åsikt angående sina upplevelser av fysiska butikers servicescape och hur produkterna upplevs. I enkäten gjordes en medveten uppdelning av frågorna gällande fysiska butiker, ena butikskonceptet har en specifik plus size avdelning och den andra har sitt plus size sortimentet integrerat med det övriga sortimentet i butiken. Efter genomförd deskriptiv och statistisk analys av det insamlade materialet har det kunnat fastställas att plus size konsumenter anser att det finns skillnader mellan butiker med enskild avdelning och butiker med integrerat sortiment. Den allmänna upplevelsen bland respondenterna var att servicescape genomförts bättre i butiker där plus size produkter är integrerade bland det övriga sortimentet. Utbudet av produkter i plus size upplevs vara begränsat. Det är därför svårt att avgöra hur servicescape påverkar uppfattningen av produkter. Dock uppfattas plus size avdelningars servicescape negativt och detta kan påverka konsumenters upplevelse av produkter och dess tillgänglighet. Studien har bidragit med nya insikter i hur det specifika kundsegmentet, plus size kvinnor, upplever servicescape. Vidare har studien bidragit till forskning gällande butiker med integrerat utbud då tidigare forskning inom detta område varit begränsat. / Plus size is a growing consumer segment that have become neglected in the clothing industry both nationally and internationally. With a limited supply and a lack of inspiring departments in store, more consumers have stopped shopping in physical stores and instead directed their shopping towards online retailers. These factors have inspired this study and the need to investigate how Swedish female fashion forward plus size consumers in different ages experience physical store environments in terms of servicescape. The study is based on a quantitative method where convenience sample was used. 121 female plus size consumers took part in an online survey to express their experiences of servicescape and how products are perceived in these environments. The survey was deliberately divided into two different parts where one part focused on stores that have a specific department for plus size clothing and the other where the plus size assortment was integrated with the other ranges in store. After conducted descriptive and statistical analysis of the compiled material, the study shows that female plus size consumers deem that there is a difference between the experienced servicescape of the two different types of store. The general conception among the respondents is that the stores where the plus size assortment is integrated have a better applied servicescape. The range of products in plus size was experienced to be limited. Because of this is has been hard to determine werther servicescape have a big impact on how products are perceived or not. However, since the study shows that plus size departments in terms of servicescape are perceived negatively, this may have an effect on how the products and its availability are perceived. The study has contributed with new insights into how the specific consumer segment, female plus size, experience servicescape. Furthermore, the study has contributed with new knowledge regarding the experience of stores with an integrated plus size assortment since this particular angle has been limited in earlier studies.