Due to the textile industry’s polluting impact on aquatic environments the Sweden Textile Water Initiative (STWI) was established. This Sida funded collaboration between SIWI (Stockholm International Water Institute), Swedish fashion brands and their suppliers received international recognition for their success in achieving tangible environmental results after implementing sustainability measures at the suppliers. However, the financing from Sida was only for a limited period of time and the projects lost momentum when the money ran out. Moreover, claims have been made that monetary savings which suppliers made from more efficient resource use has been subject to profit theft from the brands by reducing their order prices. Furthermore, the brands genuine desire to achieve sustainability in the supply chain is questioned by modest supplier nominations. Previous research shows problems in value chain management and how both intentional and unintentional actions affect power dynamics and other factors in the value chain. This research contributes to the sustainable supply chain management (SSCM) literature by including a Swedish partnership perspective. In addition, new research is continuously needed in sustainability and textile value chains as conditions in the industry change rapidly (such as increased environmental awareness, and not least the covid-19 pandemic).  The purpose of this thesis is to answer the research question; "Is there a pattern of economic benefits for sustainability efforts in the textile supply chain being unfairly distributed between stakeholders in international partnerships?" This is achieved by conducting a case study of the Sweden Textile Water Initiative (STWI), including a supplier survey, semi-structured interviews with brands and supplier representatives, as well as a literature study.  The results showed that no coherent definition of "fair" had been established within a STWI context, and although suppliers were the only ones to receive direct financial profits, brands still indicated that this was not necessarily unfair. Furthermore, it was discovered that order quantities had decreased, but that motivations for decrease could be due to a number of reasons; restructuring in business model, changed consumer behavior/demand, and order placement with other suppliers. Regarding the order price, the majority of suppliers considered that these had decreased, while brands unanimously claimed they had increased. Contradictions in the respondents' answers does not necessarily render their experiences untrue, as they rarely have direct financial transactions due to the structure of the value chain. Another result showed that the brands modest number of nominated suppliers was largely due to hesitation from suppliers to join the partnership, as well as brands focusing on strategic placement, and being more oriented towards where the projects will have the largest impact. Finally, the results led to a number of suggestions on how improved partnerships can be achieved.  The plethora of factors that affect the complex structure of the industry also leaves many opportunities to explore cause-effect relationships. Further research needs include mapping market-, upstream- and downstream- pressure on suppliers, definitions of justice and risk responsibility, driving forces leading to relocation of production countries and comparisons of environmental legislation related to textile production. / Till följd av den förorenande miljöpåverkan som textilproduktion har på vattendrag bildades partnerskapet Sweden Textile Water Initiative (STWI). Detta Sida-finansierade samarbete mellan SIWI (Stockholm International Water Institute), svenska modeföretag och deras leverantö rer erhöll internationellt erkännande för sin framgång med att nå konkreta miljöresultat efter implementering av hållbarhetsåtgärder hos leverantörerna. Finansieringen från Sida pågick dock endast under en begränsad tidsperiod och projekten förlorade momentum när pengarna tog slut. Dessutom har påståenden gjorts om att de monetära besparingar som leverantörer gjort genom effektivare resursanvändning har hamnat hos modeföretagen genom sänkta orderpriser. Vidare ifrågasätts modeföretagen genuina vilja att uppnå hållbarhet i leverantörskedjan av sparsamma leverantörsnomineringar till partnerskapet, då det indikerar vilja att vara delaktiga, utan transparens kring den egna värdekedjan. Tidigare forskning visar på problematik i värdekedjeledning samt hur både avsiktliga och oavsiktliga handlingar påverkar maktdynamik och andra faktorer i värdekedjan. Detta arbete avser att bidra till den större SSCM-litteraturen med ett partneskapsperspektiv mellan aktörerna i värdekejdan istället för topstyrt från varumärken. Dessutom behövs kontinuerligt ny intersektionell forskning inom textil värdekedjor eftersom förhållandena i branschen ändras snabbt (såsom ökad miljömedvetenhet och inte minst covid-19-pandemin).  Syftet med detta examensarbete är att besvara forskningsfrågan; “Finns det ett mönster av att ekonomiska vinster från hållbarhets-insatser i textil värdekedjan fördelas på ett orättvist sätt mellan intressenter i internationella partnerskap?”. Detta görs genom att utföra en fallstudie av Sweden Textile Water Initiative (STWI), inkluderande enkät till leverantörer, semi-strukturerade intervjuer med mode- företag och leverantörs representanter samt en litteraturstudie.  Resultaten påvisade att det saknades en gemensamt definierad tolkning av “orättvist” inom STWI och trots att leverantörer var de enda som erhöll direkt ekonomisk vinst indikerade ändå modeföretag att detta inte nödvändigtvis var orättvist. Vidare upptäcktes att orderkvantiteter hade minskat men att detta kunde bero på ett antal anledningar; omstrukturering i affärsmodell, förändrat konsumentbeteende/efterfrågan och orderplacering hos andra leverantörer, medan genomförande av STWI inte ansågs vara en betydande anledning. Gällande orderpris så ansåg majoriteten av leverantörer att dessa hade sjunkit medan modeföretag enhälligt hävdade att de hade ökat. Att det finns motsättningar i svaren betyder inte nödvändigtvis att deras erfarenheter är osanna, eftersom dessa aktörer sällan har direkta ekonomiska transaktioner till följd av värdekedjans struktur. Ett annat resultat visade att modeföretags låga antal nominerade leverantörer till stor del berodde på tveksamhet från leverantörer att medverka i partnerskapet samt att fokusering på leverantörer där åtgärder skulle ge störst nytta. Slutligen ledde resultaten till ett antal förslag på hur förbättrade partnerskap kan uppnås.  Överflödet av faktorer som påverkar den komplexa strukturen i textilindustrin lämnar många möjligheter att utforska orsakssamband. Ytterligare forskningsbehov inkluderar kartläggning av marknad-, uppströms- och nedströms tryck på leverantörer, definitioner av rättvisa och riskansvar, drivkrafter som leder till omlokalisering av produktionsländer och jämförelser av miljölagstiftning relaterad till textilproduktion.

La chaine varisque ouest-européenne est une vaste province métallogénique qui abrite une large diversité de minéralisations. Une grande partie d’entre elles ont fait l'objet d'exploitations historiques, à l'instar de Salau(Pyrénées Centrales), le plus important gisement de tungstène français. Les résultats de terrain combinés aux études minéralogiques et géochimiques convergent pour montrer qu'il existe deux types de minéralisations superposées : (1) un skarn à silicates calciques, rare scheelite fine et sulfures disséminés ; (2) une brèche filonienne à sulfures massifs (pyrrhotite et chalcopyrite dominante), or et abondante scheelite grossière qui a constitué l’essentiel du minerai exploité. Cette brèche se localise dans des zones de cisaillement ductile-fragile(faille Véronique) recoupant la granodiorite. Les datations U/Pb sur zircon, apatite et scheelite situent le skarn contemporain de l'intrusion de la Fourque à 295±2 Ma alors que la brèche à sulfures massifs se forme environ6 Ma après, à 289±2 Ma. Ces minéralisations, issues de deux intrusions successives (granodiorite puis leucogranite), s’inscrivent dans l'évolution d'un modèle Intrusion Related Deposit. La mise en place de labrèche à forte teneur en or-scheelite est initiée par la focalisation progressive de la déformation régionale dans la Zone axiale des Pyrénées au sein de failles E-W dextres inverses. L'origine de l'or à l'échelle des Pyrénées pourrait s'expliquer en partie par une large répartition de ces minéralisations à forte teneur. La carte de paléotempératures RSCM a permis de localiser d’autres intrusions non affleurantes en étendant le district minéralisé sur plus de 7 km jusqu’à l’indice à W-Au d’Aurenère en Espagne. / The Western European variscan belt is a vast metallogenic district which hosts a wide diversity of mineralizations. A large part of them have been historically exploited, such as Salau (Central Pyrenees), the most important French tungsten deposit. The field results combined with the mineralogical and geochemical studies converge to show that it exists two superimposed ore types: (1) a calcic silicates skarn with rare fine grainedscheelite and disseminated sulphides; (2) a mineralized breccia with massive sulphides (pyrrhotiteand chalcopyrite dominant), gold and abundant coarse-grained scheelite which have constituted the main part of the exploited ore. This breccia is localized in ductile-fragile shear-zones (Veronique fault) which crosscut the granodiorite. U/Pb datings on zircon, apatite and scheelite place the skarn, contemporaneous of the LaFourque intrusion at 295±2 Ma while the massive sulphides breccia was formed ca. 6 Ma later at 289±2 Ma.These mineralizations, from two successive intrusions (granodiorite then leucogranite), belong to the evolution of an Intrusion Related Deposit model. The emplacement of the high grade gold and scheelite breccia was initiated by the progressive focalization of the regional deformation in the Axial Zone of the Pyrenees within EWdextral-reverse faults. The source of gold at the Pyrenees scale could be explained in part by this type of high-grade mineralizations. The RSCM paleo-temperature map has made possible to locate other undercover intrusions, extending the mineralized district over more than 7 km until the W-Au Aurenere occurrence in Spain.

The mechanisms by which magnetisation changes occur in magnetic materials may be investigated by a variety of hysteresis measurements. During this study both alternating and rotational hysteresis measurements were used to characterise the mechanisms of magnetisation change in a number of permanent magnet materials. Studies of the time dependence of magnetisation, remanent magnetisations and the dependence of the reversible magnetisation on the irreversible magnetisation were undertaken. These studies revealed that in sintered rare-earth iron magnets the magnetisation change is predominately controlled by domain nucleation, with a lesser contribution from domain wall pinning within the boundary regions of the grains. Similar mechanisms control the magnetisation change in the larger grains of melt-quenched rare-earth iron magnets. In the single domain grains of the melt-quenched materials incoherent rotation mechanisms control the changes of magnetisation. Magnetisation change in MnAlC and sintered AlNiCo was found to be controlled by domain wall pinning within the interior of the grains of the materials. Two devices were constructed for the measurement of rotational hysteresis. The first measures the angular acceleration of a sample set spinning in a magnetic field, from which the rotational hysteresis loss may be determined. The second employs rotating search coils to make direct measurements of the component of magnetisation that contributes to rotational hysteresis loss during the rotation of a sample in a field. Both devices were found to produce data consistent with that in the literature and to be useful for the characterisation of rotational hysteresis in permanent magnet materials. A simple model was used to examine the dependence of rotational hysteresis loss on various material parameters. It was found that the value of the rotational hysteresis integral is dependent on interactions and to a lesser extent distributions in anisotropy. This is contrary to assumptions commonly made in the literature but consistent with published experimental data, which has been reinterpreted. Measurements of rotational hysteresis losses in the materials studied were found to be effected by geometric demagnetisation effects. A method by which such data may be corrected for these effects is proposed. Following correction and consideration of the interactions within the materials, the rotational hysteresis data was found to be consistent with the characterisations performed in linearly alternating fields.

Cette thèse présente la reconstruction de l’histoire tectono-thermique du massif varisque des Jebilet (Maroc) à fort potentiel minier, depuis son évolution pré-orogénique au Dévonien supérieur-Carbonifère inférieur jusqu’à sa structuration pendant l’orogénèse varisque-alléghanienne au Carbonifère supérieur-Permien inférieur. Pour répondre à cette problématique, ce travail s’organise autour de deux approches : (1) l’une métrologique appliquée à la géothermométrie Raman sur la matière carbonée (RSCM) et (2) l’autre intégrant une étude structurale, géochronologique et une analyse de la thermicité.L’approche métrologique a permis de valider l’applicabilité du géothermomètre RSCM (1) dans un contexte de métamorphisme polyphasé, (2) pour des roches carbonatées et des skarns des Jebilet et (3) de proposer un nouveau paramètre Raman RSA permettant de mieux préciser les températures supérieures à 500°C et d’étendre l’applicabilité de la méthode jusqu’à des températures maximales qui atteignent les 700°C.A partir de l’approche intégrée, trois épisodes tectono-thermiques ont été mis en évidence. Le premier épisode D₀ correspond à une tectonique extensive permettant l’ouverture du bassin des Jebilet au Dévonien supérieur-Carbonifère inférieur. Cette tectonique extensive est accompagnée par une anomalie thermique supérieure à 500°C déduites des mesures de géothermométrie RSCM (TRSCM) et par une importante activité magmatique bimodale et granodioritique datée dans ce travail entre 358 ± 7 et 336 ± 4 Ma. Au Carbonifère supérieur débute la phase compressive structurant le massif des Jebilet avec la mise en place de nappes superficielles au Namuro-Westphalien (D₁), suivie par la phase varisque majeure (D₂). L’analyse structurale a permis de montrer une évolution progressive du régime de déformation de D2 depuis une compression coaxiale à une transpression dextre compatible avec un raccourcissement horizontal WNW-ESE à NW-SE. D₂₁ est associée à deux événements thermiques, le premier syn-tectonique de moyenne température (300°<TRSCM<400°C), et le second syn- à post-tectonique de haute température (600°<TRSCM<660°C).Ce contexte tectono-thermique serait l’expression de processus géodynamiques impliquant à partir du Dévonien supérieur une délamination de la lithosphère rhéïque par « slab break-off » ou « slab roll-back » qui entrainerait (1) la remontée de courant asthénosphérique chaud, et (2) la rotation horaire de Gondwana et son amalgamation progressive avec Laurussia structurant au Carbonifère supérieur-Permien inférieur la chaine varisque-alléghanienne. / This thesis presents the reconstruction of the tectono-thermal history of the Paleozoic Jebilet massif (Morocco), from its pre-orogenic evolution at the Upper Devonian-Lower Carboniferous to its structuration during the variscan-alleghanian orogeny at the Upper Carboniferous-Lower Permian. To address this issue, this work is organized around two approaches: (1) one metrological applied to the Raman Spectroscopy of Carbonaceous Matterial (RSCM) and (2) the other integrating a structural and geochronological study and a thermicity analysis.The metrological approach allowed to validate the applicability of the RSCM geothermometer (1) in a context of polyphase metamorphism, (2) for carbonate rocks and skarns of Jebilet and (3) to propose a new parameter Raman RSA allowing to better specify temperatures above 500°C and extend the applicability of the method to maximum temperatures of up to 700°C.From the integrated approach, three tectono-thermal episodes were highlighted. The first episode D₀, corresponds to an extensive tectonic allowing the opening of the Jebilet basin at the Upper Devonian-Lower Carboniferous. This opening is accompanied by a HT thermal anomaly as shown by the important bimodal and granodioritic magmatic activity dated between 358 ± 7 Ma and 336 ± 4 Ma and the TRSCM higher than 500°C recorded by the rocks. During Upper Carboniferous, the compressive phase structuring the Jebilet massif begins with the emplacement of superficial nappes (D₁), followed by the variscan major phase (D2). Structural analysis showed a gradual evolution of D₂ deformation regime from coaxial compression to dextral transpression consistent with WNW-ESE to NW-SE horizontal shortening. D₂ is associated with two thermal events, the first is syn-tectonic with TRSCM between 300 and 400°C, and the second is syn- to post-tectonic with TRSCM between 600 and 660°C.This tectono-thermal context would be the expression of geodynamic processes involving from the Upper Devonian a delamination of the Rheic lithosphere by "slab break-off" or "slab roll-back" which would induce (1) the rise of hot asthenospheric current, and (2) the clockwise rotation of Gondwana and its gradual amalgamation with Laurussia structuring the variscan-alleghanian belt during the Upper Carboniferous-Lower Permian.