The emergence of the Smart Textiles field opens possibilities for designers to combine traditional surface fabrication techniques with advanced technology in the design process. The purpose of this work is to develop knowledge on interactive knitted textiles as materials for architecture and to do so through practice-based design research. The thesis formulates a research program in order to frame the design explorations, in which scale and material expression are major placeholders. Consequently, Relational Textiles for Space Design is defined as a research program with focus on surface aesthetics and the program is illustrated by design experiments exploring the expressiveness of light, heat and movement as design materials. As a result of the research presented in this thesis, a new methodological framework for interactive textile design is proposed. The framework defines field of reference and frame of reference as basic notions in surface design. These notions form a basic frame used to revise and present the methods behind the design examples Knitted Light, Touching Loops, Designing with Heat, Tactile Glow, Repetition and Textile Forms in Movement. Relating the space of Relational Textiles for Space Design to existing surface methodology in architecture gives rise to new issues that need to be addressed. For which levels of the design process will these textiles be integrated? The last chapter reflects on the role of Relational Textiles for Space Design as possible methods or expressions in the existing space of surface prototyping.

Designing Dynamic Textile Patterns Progress in chemistry, fibres and polymers technology provides textile designers with new expressive materials, making it possible to design dynamic textile patterns, where several different expressions are inherent in the same textile, textiles that, for example, could alternate between a striped and checkered pattern. Textiles are traditionally designed and produced to keep a given, static expression during their life cycle; a striped pattern is supposed to keep its stripes. In the same way textile designers are trained to design for static expressions, where patterns and decorations are meant to last in a specific manner. However, things are changing. The textile designer now deals also with a new raw material, a dynamic textile, ready to be further designed, developed and/or programmed, depending on functional context. This transformation in practice is not an easy one for the designers. Designers need to learn how to design with these new materials and their specific qualities, to be able to develop the full expressional potential inherent in “smart textiles design”. The aim of this thesis is to display, and discuss, a methodology for designing dynamic textile patterns. So far, something that mainly has been seen in different experimental and conceptual prototypes, in artistic expressions and for commercial efforts etc. In terms of basic experimental research this thesis explores the turn in textile design practice through a series of design experiments with focus on contributing to identifying and characterizing new design variables, new design methods and new design techniques as a foundation for dynamic textile patterns. / <p>Disputationen sker den 1:a juni 2010, kl. 13.00 i Textilmuseet, Druveforsvägen 8, Borås. Opponent: Senior Lecturer, Mary- Ann Hansen, Danmarks Designskole, Denmark</p>

Bakgrund: F.O.V Fabrics har fått förfrågningar från sina kunder angående en beläggning som idag enbart finns pigmenterad. Kunder har efterfrågat en transparent variant av denna, vilken företaget nu vill undersöka möjligheterna för att förverkliga. Beläggningen skall bibehålla uppsatta kvalitetskrav. Syfte: Att försöka ta fram en transparent beläggning som bibehåller sina egenskaper gällande vattentäthet samt ånggenomsläpp. Metod: Laborationer har utförts både i liten och stor skala på Textilhögskolans färg- och beredningslabb. F.O.V har utifrån de småskaliga testerna, valt ut några prover, vilka vi tillsammans gått vidare med att testa storskaligt på Textilhögskolans labb. Kvalitetstester har sedan utförts på F.O.V. Huvudresultat: Som svar på vår problemformulering, har vi efter utförd undersökning, kommit fram till att vi, utifrån de givna parametrar vi tillhandahållit, inte går att få fram en transparent beläggning, vilken uppfyller de önskvärda kvalitetskraven.Ett viktigt resultat som dock framkommit av undersökningen var att om materialet bestryks med tillräcklig mängd pasta, räcker det med två lager, vilket är en stor kostnadsfördel gentemot trelagersbestrykning. / <p>In collaboration with F.O.V Fabrics, we have tried to develop a transparent coating for work wear, which is presented in this thesis.The testing of three new coating recipes, should maintain their properties in being water resistant and breathable. The shell material consisted of polyester, but since the content of classification is secret, we do not fully know how the fabric has been pre-prepared.Our small-scale tests and later on also the large-scale tests took place at the Swedish School of Textiles in Borås, where we also consulted our tutor Catrin Tammjärv and Jesper Carlsson from F.O.V Fabrics.We laborated with different parameters, and with both foam- and paste coatings. The final tests were further quality tested at F.O.V Fabrics. The results sometimes surprised us, as well as Jesper from F.O.V Fabrics. Our final results are to be followed in this thesis.</p><p>Program: Textil produktutveckling med entreprenörs- och affärsinriktning</p>

II. ABSTRACTTextilen is a project designed to draw the human senses to the world of microand macro patterns in sound and color and to explore methods for correlating thetwo mediums. This goal is accomplished via a two-fold process. First of all, patternsin sound are explored through the use of textile materials by way of creating newinstrument interfaces, synthesizer sources, and tones in music harmony. Secondly,the patterns of the textiles themselves are explored and incorporated into costumesand characters so an association between the emanating sounds and the visualstimulus presented by the characters, highlights the underlying patterns used inboth mediums. The final presentation will be organized in the context ofperformance art in a controlled sound environment.A subsidiary aim of the project has been to develop myself as an artist and bringmy interests and inspirations into an artistic context. In order to execute this,a design method that incorporates practical and theoretical research alongsidetechnical invention, graphic design, sound experimentation, and characterdesign was chosen. / Program: Master in Textile Design

Examensarbetet Binary surfaces - ljusemitterande textiler för inredningssammanhang är ett undersökande arbete om hur fiberoptik kan användas i vävda strukturer. I arbetet har de parametrar som påverkar mötet mellan fiberoptik och väv, samt de möjligheter de tillsammans skapar utforskats. Resultatet är två exempel på tyger vävda med fiberoptik i kombination med mer traditionella textila material. Exemplen är framtagna för inredningssammanhang och visas som en rumsavdelare och som yttertyg på sittmöbler. / The thesis Binary surfaces - light-emitting textiles for an interior design context is an investigative work on how optical fibres can be used in woven structures. The work explores the different parameters that affect the interaction between optical fibres and weaving, and the possibilities they create together. The result is two examples of fabrics woven with optical fibres in combination with more traditional textile materials. The examples are designed for an interior context and are shown as a room divider and as outer fabric on seating furnishing.

The manufacturing and characterisation of piezoelectric textile fibres are described in this thesis. A piezoelectric material is one that generates an electric voltage when deformed, a property which exists in a number of materials. The polymer with the strongest known piezoelectric effect today is poly(vinylidene fluoride) (PVDF), however it must be processed under certain conditions to become piezoelectric. This study shows that piezoelectric bicomponent PVDF-based fibres can be produced by melt spinning, which is a common and relatively simple fibre spinning method. The melt spinning process must include cold drawing, as this introduces a polar crystalline structure in the polymer. The fibres must also be electroded, which is done by producing bicomponent fibres with a core-and-sheath structure. The core is electrically conductive and constitutes an inner electrode consisting of a carbon black/polymer compound, whereas the sheath is PVDF and constitutes the piezoelectric component. Being sensitive to both deformation and temperature changes, these fibres are anticipated to be useful in a number of sensor applications. The flexibility and small size of the fibres makes it possible to include them as miniature-sensors in structures or garment without affecting the shape or comfort.

Electronic textiles (e­‐textiles) are created by the amalgamation of electronics and textiles, where electronics are integrated into or onto fabric substrates. Woven textiles are specifically considered in this thesis to integrate electronics into textiles' orthogonal architecture. This thesis investigates 'How can the weaving process be manipulated to make woven e-­textiles with integrated electronics?' The methodological approach taken is practice based research carried out via a technical materials approach and creative craft methods. An investigation of woven e-­textiles through design led practice and woven expertise is presented. Previously, woven e-­textiles have been investigated either via technical material approaches, (where the main emphasis remains on function) or via creative craft methods, (which emphasise experimental forms, manipulate integration methods and apply craft based knowledge). Both of these approaches have presented only limited investigation of unobtrusive integrated electronics in woven e-­textiles, and woven structures have not been fully utilised to support the integration. The research applies reflective practice through a design process model; this is based on the researcher's previous weaving expertise and designing methods. The work investigates how woven construction may be manipulated to develop novel integrated woven e-­textiles. It was found that five woven approaches were particularly of value for electronics integration. These were the use of double cloth, the integration of multiple functions into the textiles as part of the weaving, the use of complex weaving techniques to attach and integrate components, the use of inlay weft weaving and the manipulation of floats (free floating threads). The thesis makes original contributions to knowledge, including identification of key stages in the woven e-­textile design process, identification and application of advanced weaving techniques to facilitate integrated woven e-­textiles, and compilation of a systematic record of woven e-­‐textile techniques as a technical woven repository. Underpinning design principles that influence the developed e-­textile outcomes are identified. A range of woven e-­textile samples are designed and made. Three specific examples including an actuator ('RGB colour mixer'), a circuit ('corrugated pleat LED v2') and a soft module ('battery holder module v4'), are described in detail to illustrate their development using the e-­textile design process model. The knowledge gained has potential to be applied to industrial woven processes for e-­textiles.

The paper represents an integration of existing smart textiles materials with in the fashion apparel. A pair of jeans termed as Smart Denim was developed in facility of Swedish School of Textiles with phase change material provided by the research organization Swerea IVF. The product was tested at every stage of development and results were carried out in form of graphs.The research work was confined and focused on intelligent textiles taking phase change materials for development of smart denim. Smart denim may influence the ability of the fashion industry to meet the new demands. It will also provide insight of positioning the product with in the fashion market which is quite saturated. Integrating phase change materials within fashionable product denim opens a new way of understanding the fashion market. / Program: Magisterutbildning i fashion management med inriktning modemarknadsföring

Electrically conductive or electro-active fibers are the key components of smart and interactive textiles, which could be used in medical, sports, energy, and military applications in the near future. The functionalization of high-performance textile yarns/fibers with conjugated polymers can produce conductive fibers with better electro-mechanical properties, which is difficult with commonly used spinning techniques. In this thesis work, textile-based conductive yarns/fibers were prepared by coating viscose and polyester (PET) yarns with the conjugated polymer PEDOT. For coating purposes, an efficient technique called chemical vapor deposition (CVD) was used, which is a solventless technique and can produce PEDOT polymer layers with high conductivity values. The polymerization of EDOT monomer vapors and coating of oxidant (FeCl3 or FepTS) enriched viscose and PET yarns took place simultaneously. The PEDOT-coated viscose and polyester yarns showed relatively high conductivity values, which could be sufficient for many electronic applications. The polymerization process and the quality of PEDOT polymer strongly depends on different reaction conditions. In this research work, the impact of most of these reaction parameters on the electrical, mechanical, and thermal properties of PEDOT-coated conductive yarns was considered separately. Under specific reaction conditions, it was found that viscose fibers were successfully coated with PEDOT polymer and showed rather high electrical conductivity (≥ 15 S/cm). However, due to the acid hydrolysis of viscose fibers in FeCl3 solutions, the mechanical properties were drastically reduced. In order to improve the mechanical properties of conductive yarns, a relatively stable and chemical-resistant substrate (PET) was coated with PEDOT polymer. Comparative studies between PEDOT-coated viscose and PET conductive yarns showed that the electrical and mechanical properties were enhanced by changing the substrate material. Later on, PEDOT-coated conductive fibers were treated with silicone elastomer solution and due to the thin silicone layers, the hydrophobic properties, flexibility, and durability of coated yarns was improved. Furthermore, a novel electrical resistance-measuring setup was developed, which can be used not only for fibers but also for fabric structures. The electrical characterization of PEDOT-coated conductive yarns showed that it can be used effectively for sensitive fibers without damaging their surface morphology. Finally, the use of conductive yarns as stretch sensors was evaluated. For this purpose, small rectangular knitted patches of conductive yarns were prepared and then the change in electrical resistance values at different extension percentages (5–50%) was investigated. The constant variations in electrical resistance values at different extension and relaxation cycles for longer periods of time revealed that the conductive yarns produced have the potential to be used as stretch sensors for monitoring of vital signs in medical and sports applications. / <p>Thesis for the Degree of Doctor of Philosophy to be presented on March 08, 2013, 10.00 in KA-salen, Kemigården 4, Chalmers University of Technology, Gothenburg</p>

Textile materials and textile design are a part of countless products in our surroundings,as well as diverse design fields and industries, each of which has very different materialtraditions and working methods. The aim of this thesis is to add to our understandingof the relationship between textiles and products in the design process, and to explorehow textiles enter and influence product design processes and how products functionin textile design processes. A further aim is to examine the effect of new textiletechnology, such as smart textiles and 3D printed textiles, on this dynamic. This thesis is the result of an interplay between theoretical work, experimentalpractice-based projects, and observation of design practice, and it presents two typesof results: Firstly, descriptions of how the relationship can manifest itself in the designprocess, which give a broad picture of the relationship between textile and productand in so doing add to our understanding of textiles as design materials and highlightsome of the additional complexities and possibilities for the design process that comewith new forms of textiles. Secondly, this thesis presents ways of describing thedynamics between textiles and products in the design process, with the intention ofopening up for reflection on how we design, and can design, with textiles. Here, themain outcome is a theoretical framework which examines the relationship from botha product design and a textile design perspective, and includes methods and questionsthat can be used to explore and define how textiles and products meet in the designprocess.