This case study examines how luxury fashion brands communicate their sustainability practices on the brands' sustainability page on the company's website and whether selected luxury fashion brands are greenwashing and bluewashing. The luxury brands selected for this study are Stella McCartney and Gucci, on the grounds that both brands have different types of businesses and approaches. To understand the context, this study uses the triple bottom line sustainability concept by Elkinton (1998), sustainable luxury fashion brands (Godart & Seong ,2017; Wiedmann et al., 2009; Joey et al.,2012; and Franco et al. 2019), greenwashing concept by Delmas & Burbano (2011) and bluewashing concept (Sailer et al., 2022). To conduct the analysis, this study uses textual, eco-lexicon categorization developed by Thomas (2008) and the categorization from Milanesi et al. (2022) is adapted for visual analysis and the sins of greenwashing by Terra Choice (2010) to see the potential of greenwashing. The results shows that Stella McCartney and Gucci sustainable communication serves as their marketing strategy which encourage purchase and therefore it is problematic. Both brands use vague, ambiguous words, terms, and certifications and lack of transparency. While the images are not yet seen as a potential tool to communicate sustainability initiatives. Even though the brands are known as sustainable fashion brands, the result demonstrates brands show irrelevancies and paradoxes between what the brands communicate and their actual practices ; therefore show potential greenwashing and bluewashing.

A regional survey of environmentally harmful substances in fish in autumn 2013 revealed elevated levels of polychlorinated biphenyls (PCBs) in perch from Lake Oxundasjön, north of Upplands Väsby in Stockholm County. Follow-up studies have shown that the quantity of PCBs contained in the lake is unique of its kind in Sweden, and that the area of influence also includes downstream Rosersbergsviken, a bay of Lake Mälaren. The elevated concentrations in fish exceed today's market limits and environmental quality standards for PCBs, as of this, responsible authorities discourage from consumption of fish from Lake Oxundasjön and Rosersbergsviken. The aim has been to use statistical analyses and mass-balance modelling to study the current state of the lake system and how it may evolve in the future under different circumstances. There is a statistically significant correlation between PCB levels in sediment and perch from 21 different sites in the Stockholm-Mälaren region, including Lake Oxundasjön and Rosersbergsviken, this was demonstrated with a linear regression model. With the multivariate analysis method principal component analysis (PCA), it was illustrated how the contaminant levels in fish from Lake Oxundasjön and Rosersbergsviken differed on contaminant levels in fish from other sites. The difference mainly concerned the size and composition of PCBs. Mass-balance modelling of quantities and flows of PCBs in Lake Oxundasjön and Rosersbergsviken was made in the simulation program STELLA®. The modelling indicated that the system currently serves as a secondary distribution source of PCBs to the environment. The recovery of PCB levels is slow in the system, it will take more than 25 years for concentrations in fish to reach today’s market limits and environmental quality standards for PCBs. The model was used to evaluate three different treatment methods for Lake Oxundasjön: dredging, capping and activated carbon treatment. Simulations of these treatments led to a substantial improvement of the PCB situation in Lake Oxundasjön. Moreover, they also had a positive impact on the recovery process in the downstream Rosersbergsviken. Future climate changes, with warmer temperatures and higher run off, led to a slightly faster recovery progress of PCBs in the system.

La réaction de fusion 12C+ 12C marque un tournant dans l’évolution des étoiles massives. La section efficace présente des résonances jusqu’aux énergies d’intérêt astrophysique, généralement associées à une structure moléculaire dans le 24Mg. Au cours de cette thèse, la section efficace de fusion 12C+ 12C a été mesurée depuis la barrière de Coulomb jusqu’aux énergies d’intérêt astrophysique. La mesure en coïncidence des particules chargées et des γ a été employée. Un dispositif expérimental, STELLA, a été développé et construit au cours de cette thèse. Il comprend une chambre à réaction, des détecteurs annulaires au silicium, un mécanisme de cibles tournantes, un système de pompage pour vide poussé, un système d’acquisition digital, et une structure pour supporter 36 détecteurs LaBr3. STELLA a été installée auprès de l’accélérateur Andromède (Orsay, France) et une série d’expériences fructueuses ont permis d’obtenir des résultats cohérents au cœur de la fenêtre de Gamow pour la phase de combustion du carbone dans les étoiles massives. / The 12C+ 12C fusion reaction plays a key role in the late evolution of massive stars. Its cross section exhibits strong resonances down to the astrophysical region of interest, often associated with a molecular configuration of the 24Mg nucleus. In this thesis, the 12C+ 12C fusion cross section has been measured from the Coulomb barrier down to the astrophysical region of interest. The charged particle-gamma coincidence technique has been used. A new experimental setup, STELLA, has been developed and built during this thesis. It is composed of a reaction chamber, a set of annular silicon strip detectors, a rotating target mechanism, an ultra high vacuum system, a digital time-stamped data acquistion system, and a structure that fits 36 LaBr3 detectors. STELLA has been installed at the Andromède facility (Orsay, France). Successfull experiments have been carried out to extract fusion cross sections down to the Gamow window for the carbon burning phase of massive stars.

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This study explores the relationship between literature and society against the background of the emergence in the 1930s and 1940s in South Africa of a form of Afrikaner nationalism that was spearheaded by members of the Afrikaner petty bourgeoisie and intelligentsia and a subsequent expansion in Afrikaans literary production. It addresses problems of explanation in Afrikaner nationalism by focusing attention on the question of culture, the field of imagination and the domain of everyday life. In particular, the study examines the Keurboslaan series - a series of schoolboy stories aimed at juvenile readers - by Stella Blakemore, and traces the production, circulation and critical reception of the twenty titles in the series. The first title in this series was published in 1941 and the series has been reprinted several times over a number of decades and as recently as 1997. Drawing on the work of Benedict Anderson, this study illuminates the link between the emergence of print capitalism and the production of popular fiction on the one hand and nationalism on the other. Whilst this is a link that is not often explored, an analysis of the Keurboslaan series illustrates that the study of popular fiction can illuminate the practices through which nationalism gains popular support. It is argued that the Keurboslaan series produced a narrative of the Afrikaner ‘nation’ in popular fiction, but that this narrative was not authenticated by the intelligentsia and petty bourgeoisie who were the driving forces behind Afrikaner nationalism and its contents. It is further argued that this ‘narrative of nation’ circulated alongside more official narratives of the ‘nation’ espoused in discourses of religion, science and literature published in Afrikaans. The narrative of ‘nation’ in Keurboslaan – whilst sharing many similarities with official narratives in other discourses – but also differs from those discourses in important respects. It is argued that the popular series was influential precisely because it imagined the Afrikaner ‘nation’ in very different ways and on different terms from those discourses. Moreover, the form in which this narrative was produced, that is popular youth literature, appealed to readers of Afrikaans who were in search of escapist fiction. For these readers, the Keurboslaan series helped to give shape to and created new possibilities for interpreting the world that they inhabited. Reading the school as a corollary of the ‘nation’, it is argued that the narrative of the nation in Keurboslaan series explores the boundaries between the self and the other and posits the self as a danger to the self, resulting in an emphasis on the need to discipline the self. This kind of analysis also creates the space for examining in what ways ideas and identities about ‘race’, gender, sexuality, class and ‘nation’ are constructed in the texts. Yet, the study maintains that whilst the Keurboslaan series contributed to creating a space in which a particular understanding of the self and the world becomes possible, and whereas the reader is not conceived of as a completely free agent that can derive simply any meaning from the text, the study and its theoretical underpinnings do not fully account for individual readers’ engagement with popular texts and the ways in which reading strategies and habits can generate different, ambiguous or inconclusive meanings for readers. It is suggested that a study of popular texts and Afrikaner nationalism employing theories of reading and the reader will complement this analysis. / Thesis (DLitt (Literary Theory))--University of Pretoria, 2004. / Afrikaans / unrestricted

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In the early 1990s, a series of gruesome murders of young women in Ciudad Juárez, a city located in the U.S.-Mexico border, shook the political landscape of Mexico. A decade later, the strange and violent murders, known as the feminicides or feminicidios of Juárez, reached international infamy across hemispheres and continents. During this time, the city and the cases became the subjects of an extensive body of scholarship and of any imaginable artistic medium (narrative, poetry, theater, performance, music, and so on). Eventually, the complexity and overexposure of the cases and the sociopolitical conditions of Ciudad Juárez placed them at the center of a paradoxical debate: on one hand, the work of activists, feminists, and scholars of social sciences (like anthropologists and sociologists) studied the murders as a localized example of a larger phenomenon of mysoginistic violence; on the other, journalistic and media investigations of Juárez understood the murders as the products of specific agents (serial killers, murderers, drug cartels, amongst others) and the fractures within the Mexican Nation-State. And yet, despite the expansion and overlapping of these discourses, fictional representations of Juárez remained tangential to this intricate debate. Thus, this research explores the different ways in which writers, artists, and filmmakers deployed and negotiated existent perspectives on the feminicides within fictional environments. As a result of the vast amount of published work available on Ciudad Juárez, I narrowed the objects of my research through a transnational scope. The resulting sample of texts transverses borders (Mexico and the U.S.), continents (Latin America and Europe), genres (fiction and nonfiction), and mediums (literature and film). The first chapter explores the connections of Sergio González Rodríguez’s Huesos en el desierto and Roberto Bolaño’s 2666 through the theoretical framework of the possible worlds of fiction. The second chapter moves to issues of representation, gender, and race through the analysis of two novels written by Chicana scholars: Alicia Gaspar de Alba’s Desert Blood: The Juárez Murders and Stella Pope Duarte’s If I Die in Juárez. Finally, the third chapter focuses on film representations of Juárez and the feminicides in the form of Gregory Nava’s Bordertown and Carlos Carrera’s Backyard/El Traspatio. / text

This thesis is concerned with one key aspect of the reception of the vernacular poetry of Francesco Petrarca (Petrarch), namely translations and imitations of the Rerum vulgarium fragmenta (Rvf) and Triumphi in English. It aims to provide a more comprehensive survey of the vernacular Petrarch’s legacy to English literature than is currently available, with a particular focus on some hitherto critically neglected texts and authors. It also seeks to ascertain to what degree the socio-historical phenomena of religion, politics, and culture have influenced the translations and imitations in question. The approach has been both chronological and comparative. This strategy will demonstrate with greater clarity the monumental effect of the Elizabethan Reformation on the English reception of Petrarch. It proposes a solution to the problem of the long gap between Geoffrey Chaucer’s re-writing of Rvf 132 and the imitations of Wyatt and Surrey framed in the context of Chaucer’s sophisticated imitative strategy (Chapter I). A fresh reading of Sir Philip Sidney’s Astrophil and Stella is offered which highlights the author’s misgivings about the dangers of textual misinterpretation, a concern he shared with Petrarch (Chapter II). The analysis of Edmund Spenser’s Amoretti and Epithalamion in the same chapter reveals a hitherto undetected Ovidian subtext to Petrarch’s Rvf 190. Chapter III deals with two English versions of the Triumphi: I propose a date for Lord Morley’s translation which suggests it may be the first post- Chaucerian English engagement with Petrarch; new evidence is brought to light which identifies the edition of Petrarch used by William Fowler as the source text for his Triumphs of Petrarcke. The fourth chapter constitutes the most extensive investigation to date of J. M. Synge’s engagement with the Rvf, and deals with the question of translation as subversion. On the theoretical front, it demonstrates how Synge’s use of “folk-speech” challenges Venuti’s binary foreignising/domesticating system of translation categorisation.