This project explores design considerations and processes involved in the development of sports performance clothing specifically aimed at city cycling commuters. Research with a focus on smart clothing and electronic integration was used to form a technical framework in which the requirements of the end user were addressed. The result being the creation of a wearable electronic jacket containing a lighting system aimed at improving safety and comfort aspects affecting cycle commuters. The project methodology was essentially practice based with a strong experimental approach linked to the physical testing and refinement of electronic and clothing integration. Design aesthetics were equally important and are presented as a visual record linked to the use of computer related technologies which have influenced the design planning and processes of the project.

This project explores design considerations and processes involved in the development of sports performance clothing specifically aimed at city cycling commuters. Research with a focus on smart clothing and electronic integration was used to form a technical framework in which the requirements of the end user were addressed. The result being the creation of a wearable electronic jacket containing a lighting system aimed at improving safety and comfort aspects affecting cycle commuters. The project methodology was essentially practice based with a strong experimental approach linked to the physical testing and refinement of electronic and clothing integration. Design aesthetics were equally important and are presented as a visual record linked to the use of computer related technologies which have influenced the design planning and processes of the project.

Submitted by Filipe dos Santos (fsantos@pucsp.br) on 2017-07-11T12:45:52Z No. of bitstreams: 1 Vera Lucia da Silva Azeredo Pereira Barretto.pdf: 326063700 bytes, checksum: 735e663ee454115277d7e27f66ae8b79 (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2017-07-11T12:45:52Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Vera Lucia da Silva Azeredo Pereira Barretto.pdf: 326063700 bytes, checksum: 735e663ee454115277d7e27f66ae8b79 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2017-06-28 / Conselho Nacional de Pesquisa e Desenvolvimento Científico e Tecnológico - CNPq / This research project sets out to investigate how brands as addressors in the sports fashion universe organize their discourses so as to exhibit new ways of life in stores. In situ observation is the basis for an endeavor to understand the discursive mechanisms — enunciatory, thematic, figurative and plastic — deployed to foster belief in these enunciations as verdictive, so that credibility leads to their being taken up as life aspirations. Discursive strategies and types of interaction are mapped, and these constructions are then systematized in a typology comprising types of interactions and types of store and consumer. The choice of stores in the sportswear segment is motivated by the action of these addressors, which transcend the role of proposing forms of dress to present contemporary ways of urban life, in a move aligned with the growing importance of everyday physical activity for people who live in São Paulo. Observation leads to a corpus consisting of four stores — Track&Field, Adidas, Nike and Asics — which together form the sports quadrilateral of Rua Oscar Freire, São Paulo’s emblematic upmarket shopping street. The theoretical and methodological foundations range from the semiotics of Greimas, particularly as developed in Landowski’s sociosemiotics, highlighting sensitivity, visibility, public versus private, and the role of interactions in the apprehension and construction of meaning; to Oliveira’s developments regarding enunciations in discursive interactions, meaning apprehended in action, esthesia, and syncretism; and the semiotic contributions to marketing, brand management and consumer behavior studies of Floch, Pezzini, Cervelli, Semprini, Ceriani, and Ciaco. The analysis of store plasticity follows research on window displays by Oliveira and Demetresco. The investigation shows that the discourses of sports brands across all communication channels evidence a certain distancing from the concept of sports linked solely to performance and a tendency to highlight values closer to people’s everyday lives such as well-being, health, fashion, and beauty. Brands in this segment enunciate ways of living that reiterate these values as lifestyles, and when these lifestyles are displayed in the valuable space of a store on an iconic street like Rua Oscar Freire they acquire prescriptive force, leading individuals to believe in the need to adopt and appropriate this axiology as essential to their participation in contemporary urban life. The study also aims to link semiotics to brand management and visual merchandising, offering a rigorous scientific framework for brand communication strategies / Esta pesquisa investiga como os destinadores marcas, no universo de moda esportiva, organizam seus discursos de maneira a expor nas lojas novos modos de viver a vida. A partir da observação in loco, busca-se compreender quais são os mecanismos discursivos empregados — enunciativos, temáticos, figurativos e plásticos — para fazer crer nesses enunciados como veridictórios, de modo que, credíveis, passam a ser seguidos como lema de vida. Mapeadas as estratégias discursivas e os tipos de interação, essas construções são sistematizadas numa tipologia tanto dos tipos de interações, quanto dos tipos de lojas e de consumidores. A escolha por lojas do segmento de sportswear é motivada pela ação desses destinadores, que ultrapassa o papel de propor modos de vestir e passa a apresentar modos de viver a vida urbana na contemporaneidade, movimento alinhado à crescente importância da atividade física no cotidiano, recortado no estudo do paulistano. A observação levou a um corpus constituído pelas lojas: Track&Field, Adidas, Nike e Asics, que juntas formam o quadrilátero esportivo da Oscar Freire, rua emblemática do consumo paulistano. A fundamentação teórica e metodológica é da semiótica de Greimas, particularmente seu desenvolvimento na sociossemiótica de Landowski, com aprofundamentos do sensível, visibilidade, público e privado e ao papel das interações na apreensão e construção do sentido; as elaborações de Oliveira acerca da enunciação nas interações discursivas, do sentido apreendido em ato, da estesia e do sincretismo; as contribuições semióticas ao marketing, à gestão de marcas e ao consumo de Floch; Pezzini; Cervelli; Semprini; Ceriani e Ciaco. A análise da plasticidade das lojas seguirá estudos sobre vitrinas de Oliveira e Demetresco. A investigação apontou que os discursos das marcas de moda esportiva, nas diversas mídias, evidenciam um certo afastamento do conceito do esporte ligado apenas à performance e passam a dar visibilidade a valores de bem-estar, saúde, moda e esteticidade aproximando-se do cotidiano dos indivíduos. As marcas desse segmento enunciam modos de viver de maneira a reiterar esses valores como estilos de vida que, ao serem apresentados no espaço valorizado de uma loja de rua icônica, ganham força de prescrição, levando o indivíduo a acreditar na necessidade de adoção e apropriação dessa axiologia como aspecto essencial para sua inserção na vida da urbe contemporânea. Esse estudo promoveu uma aproximação entre semiótica, gestão de marcas e visual merchandising, oferecendo um arcabouço científico rigoroso às estratégias comunicacionais das marcas

Con el incremento de las compras por internet, la categoría de ropa deportiva ha decidido utilizar este canal para mantener la relación consumidor-marca. Debido a ello, las marcas de esta categoría necesitan saber cuáles son las variables que deben considerar al momento de desarrollar estrategias que les permitan preservar dicha relación. El objetivo del presente estudio es examinar la relación entre el e-loyalty, e-trust, e-satisfaction y website quality en la intención de compra del consumidor peruano en la moda deportiva. Las marcas de esta categoría deben comprender las expectativas de los clientes respecto a las compras en línea para atraer nuevos clientes y retener a sus clientes existentes. / With the increase in online purchases, the sportswear category has decided to use this channel to maintain the consumer-brand relationship. In consequence, brands in this category need to know which variables they should consider when developing strategies that allow them to preserve this relationship. The objective of this study is to examine the relationship between e-loyalty, e-trust, e-satisfaction and website quality in the purchase intention of the Peruvian consumer in the sportswear category. Brands in this category must understand customer expectations regarding online shopping to attract new customers and retain existing customers. / Trabajo de investigación