El texto completo de este trabajo no está disponible en el Repositorio Académico UPC por restricciones de la casa editorial donde ha sido publicado. / The textile sector presents a general problem, due to the increasing introduction of international products (Chinese, Hindu, etc.) due to the low cost of labor and the use of high-tech equipment, this forces companies in the field to improve their productive processes, produce more with less, and reduce costs from the most basic jobs. Therefore, it is proposed to implement the Lean methodology, focusing directly on the optimization of production processes using its various tools and a selection of indicators for monitoring the results. To validate, a case study was carried out in a real company that implemented the different Lean tools and the Kaizen matrix in the dyeing and finishing process, a process that presents a high percentage of defects. This allowed us to effectively reduce the number of reprocesses by a significant 8.14%, which allowed the company to save $ 184,320.42.

No presenta resumen / El texto completo de este trabajo no está disponible en el Repositorio Académico UPC por restricciones de la casa editorial donde ha sido publicado. / Jinling Institute of Technology

Lean Production is a well-established concept that has been most prominent within the car manufacturing industry. It bases on the ide to remove all waste and to strip away unnecessary steps that do not add value to the customer. Agile, on the other hand, is a flexible concept, aimed to stay put during volatile circumstances. This thesis deals with the phenomena of Lean Enterprise, which is an elongation of Lean Production. Now the whole organization, on all levels, is included. The thesis also explores the concept of agile, as in agile development and not in a software focus. The purpose of this study is to identify the dispersion between lean and agile philosophies and methods of working within the Swedish textile industry. No previous research about this subject have been made, solely on Lean Production, both in the textile sector and others, or Lean Enterprise, but then not within the chosen sector. Moreover, have no study been made regarding the Swedish textile sector. In order to pursue this study the authors had to explain what characteristics that are describing the phenomena of Lean Production, Pettersens (2009) research was chosen to display these. Then, these groups of characteristics were transmitted into a suitable Lean Enterprise way of thinking, to lift lean up from solely producing environments. By using this information a quantitative survey with 33 assertions have been assembled and executed on three different companies with a total of 16 respondents. The conclusions that can be drawn from this study are that there are indications that lean do exist on an operative level, throughout whole organizations, with the most prominent group of characteristics being scientific management. The least implemented group of lean characteristics within the participated companies is defects control. The results also did indicate that agile characteristics do exist but however in various amounts and in various parts. This thesis is a pilot study which will be used as the fundament for an upcoming study, therefore the latter part of this thesis’s purpose was to conduct, test and give suggestions for improving a survey. / Program: Applied Textile Management

Poco se ha estudiado sobre la adquisición de tejidos para la fabricación de prendas en Perú, pese a ser una actividad fundamental dentro del sector. En este sentido, no se ha abordado antes el análisis de los factores decisorios para su compra; por lo que consideramos relevante la realización del presente estudio. Para contextualizar nuestro tema, en el primer capítulo, se analiza el desarrollo y evolución del sector textil a nivel mundial; las importaciones de tejidos desde China a Perú, particularmente la subpartida nacional 6004100000; y la situación actual del Tratado de Libre Comercio con China y sus implicancias para la subpartida en cuestión. En el segundo capítulo, se propone una investigación de método inductivo bajo un enfoque cualitativo, en donde se exponen los objetivos, problemas e hipótesis de esta; así como también, los grupos de actores considerados: importadores, proveedores y/o fabricantes; sector público; expertos y gremios. Como parte del levantamiento de información, se realizaron entrevistas semiestructuradas. En el tercer capítulo, se detallan y analizan los resultados de las entrevistas. En el cuarto capítulo, presenta el procesamiento de la información levantada y se exponen los hallazgos. También, se especifican las limitaciones y brechas de información en la investigación, y las futuras líneas de estudio que nacen a partir de ella. Finalmente, en el quinto capítulo, se concluye que los principales determinantes en la decisión de compra son la mayor variedad de tejidos y precios más competitivos de China; además, se presentan las recomendaciones de la investigación. / Little has been studied on fabric acquisition for garment manufacturing in Peru, despite being a fundamental activity within the sector. In this sense, the analysis of the decision factors for its purchase has not been addressed before; reason why we consider the realization of this study relevant. To contextualize our topic, in the first chapter, we analyze the development and evolution of the textile sector worldwide; fabric import from China to Peru, particularly the national subheading 6004100000; and the current situation of the Free Trade Agreement with China and its implications for the subheading in question. In the second chapter, an inductive research method is proposed under a qualitative approach, and its objectives, problems and hypotheses are exposed; as well as, the groups of relevant actors: importers, suppliers and/or manufacturers; public sector, experts and guilds. As part of the information gathering, semi-structured interviews were conducted. In the third chapter, the interviews’ results are detailed and analyzed. In the fourth chapter, we present the information processing. Limitations and information gaps on this study are specified; as well as, future research opportunities based on it. Finally, in the fifth chapter, it is concluded that the main determinants in the purchase decision are the larger variety of fabric and the more competitive prices from China; besides, the recommendations of the investigation are presented. / Tesis

El presente proyecto consiste en la elaboración y comercialización de casacas que tienen la función adicional de convertirse en mochila para hombres y mujeres de entre 18 y 35 años de edad de los niveles socioeconómicos A y B de Lima metropolitana. Se realizaron una serie de encuestas y entrevistas que nos permitieron conocer las características, atributos y precio que nuestro público objetivo estaría buscando en una prenda de vestir. Esta información es vital para la creación de nuestro producto: Pracket. Nuestro público objetivo quiere una casaca que sea cómoda, de calidad, practica y facil de guardar para su uso diario ante los cambios de clima repentinos. Nuestro producto tiene un diseño peculiar, ya que en la parte baja de la espalda se encuentra el material que convierte a la casaca en una mochila. Asimismo, Pracket se encuentra elaborada con distintos tipos de tela dependiendo de la estacionalidad. Para el verano contamos con la tela “French Terry” que se caracteriza por ser delgada y fresca; y para el invierno, una tela afranelada. Nuestro proyecto se encuentra desarrollado en una serie de etapas de validación de con el objetivo de comprobar que nuestro público objetivo está dispuesto a comprar una casaca Pracket frente al resto de casacas. Asimismo, después de validar nuestro producto se pasó al desarrollo del plan de negocio, en el cual identificamos que se requiere una inversión inicial de 81,592 soles. Para la ejecución del negocio, la rentabilidad del accionista es de 852.79%, el cual es un porcentaje que hace rentable a Pracket. / This project consists on the elaboration and merchandizing of jackets that have an additional function of becoming into a backpack for men and women between.18 and 35 years old, that are from the socioeconomic level of A and B of Metropolitan Lima To validate this project, different surveys and interviews were made, which let us know the characteristics, attributes and price that our target audience would be looking for in clothing. This information was relevant for the creation of our product: Pracket. Mainly, our target audience wants a jacket that is comfortable, high quality, practical and easy to storage, in order not to bother them in their daily activities in sudden weather changes. Our product has a peculiar design, because in the bottom of the back, it is a material that lets become the jacket into a backpack. Besides, Pracket is made of different types of cloth depending on the seasonality. For spring and summer, we have the jackets made with “French Terry” that it´s characterized for its lightness and freshness in its daily use. For addition, for winter and fall, Pracket is made with a flannel cloth. Our project is been developed in different stages of validation, in order to prove that our target is disposed to choose Pracket against the rest of jackets. Besides, after the validation, the business plan was developed, in which we identify that we require an initial investment of 81,592 soles. For the execution of the business, the profitability of the shareholder is 852.79%, which is a relevant percentage that makes Pracket profitable. / Trabajo de investigación

El problema que se describe en la presenta tesis es la alta generación de desperdicios en el proceso de confección de prendas de vestir en las MYPES peruanas. El sector de la confección textil genera el 1.9 % del PBI total y es el responsable de generar puestos de trabajo de más de 400 mil puestos directos y 2,8 millones de manera indirecta. Considerando la importancia que representa este sector para el desarrollo económico del Perú, se requiere fortalecer el desempeño de este sector a través de nuevos modelos o métodos que ayuden a confrontar el problema de la alta generación de desperdicios que presenta las MYPES peruanas. Por ello, se realizó una revisión de literatura para identificar diversos modelos que den solución al problema. Entre las investigaciones realizadas se encontró estudios en donde se implementa el Value Stream Mapping, Lean manufacturing, redutex y Programación lineal. Estos modelos han proporcionado mejoras al problema; sin embargo, no han considerado variables particulares que presentan las MYPES peruanas en la actualidad, tales como la gestión del cambio, deficiencias económicas, tecnológicas y factores negativos que influyen en su implementación. Por todo lo anteriormente expuesto, en la presente tesis se propone un método ágil y sostenible que contribuya a reducir los desperdicios de producción en MYPES textiles dedicadas a la confección de prendas de vestir. Este método consta de 4 etapas: crear conciencia y cultura de NO desperdicios, implementación de las 6S, mantener el cambio y mejora continua. Cada etapa se compone de conocimientos extraídos de la revisión de la literatura, el cual consiste en la aplicación de varias herramientas en conjunto como gestión del cambio, 6S, gestión visual y W-AMEF. La aplicación del método se desarrolló en una MYPE de confección peruana, la cual está compuesto por 8 colaboradores. Esta aplicación tuvo un tiempo de duración de 3 meses y los resultados registrados fueron la reducción del 52.13 % de la generación de mermas y el 54.88 % en la generación de lotes reprocesados; asimismo, la productividad laboral pasó de ser de 4.2 p/H a 4.8 polos por hora. / The problem described in this thesis is the high generation of waste in the process of making garments in Peruvian MYPES. The textile manufacturing sector generates 1.9% of total GDP and is responsible for 400,000 direct jobs and 2.8 million people indirectly. Considering the importance that this sector represents for the economic development of Peru, new models or methods that help to confront the problem of the high generation of waste presented by Peruvian MYPES are required. Therefore, a literature review was conducted to identify various models that provide a solution to the problem. Among them were studies where Value Stream Mapping, Lean manufacturing, REDUTEX, Linear programming is implemented. These models have provided improvements to the problem; however, they have not considered particular variables of the MYPES such as change management, economic, technological deficiencies and negative barriers in their implementation. This thesis proposes an agile and sustainable method that helps reduce production waste in textile MYPES. This method consists of 4 stages: create awareness and culture of NO waste, 6S implementation, maintain change and continuous improvement. Each stage consists of knowledge extracted from the literature review, which consists of the application of several tools together as change management, 6S and W-AMEF. The method was applied in a Peruvian made MYPE. This application had a duration of 3 months and the recorded results were a reduction of 52.13% in the generation of waste and 54.88% in the generation of unnecessary movements; also, labor productivity went from being 4.2 p / H to 4.8 poles per hour. / Trabajo de suficiencia profesional

La industria de confección textil tiene gran importancia, particularmente en los países en desarrollo como Perú, ya que ocupa el segundo lugar con respecto al sector que más aporta al PBI en el ámbito manufacturero. En el 2017 los problemas del sector textil representaron el 19% del sector manufacturero, de los cuales el 15.8% eran enfermedades musculo esqueléticas generando trastornos musculo esqueléticos (TME), esto debido a las malas prácticas y un inadecuado diseño de estaciones de trabajo. La importancia de trabajar en un adecuado ambiente laboral está relacionada directamente a la prevención de desórdenes músculo esqueléticos y a las ausencias laborales. En varios estudios se señala la importancia de un adecuado diseño, así como el correcto uso de metodologías ergonómicas, para poder evaluarlos y validarlos, sin embargo, estos se enfocan en la validación de la metodología y no del proceso que abarca desde la formulación de propuestas hasta la validación de este. Es por ello, que el presente estudio está enfocado en un modelo de rediseño de estación de trabajo que abarca desde las propuestas de diseño hasta la validación del mismo; utilizando técnicas ergonómicas observacionales como REBA, RULA y NIOSH y herramientas de ingeniería como Sistema de Manipulación de Materiales (SMM), Estudio de Métodos, Técnica de Interrogatorio Sistemático (TIS) y Economía de Movimientos. Se obtuvo un Shape44.42 % de reducción de los TME en los puestos de trabajo de Tendido, Remalle y en el proceso de Abastecimiento de Rollo, asimismo, una reducción de 849 horas de ausentismo y un ahorro de 5096 soles por año. / The textile manufacturing industry is of great importance, particularly in developing countries such as Peru, since it is the second biggest contributor to GDP in the manufacturing. In 2017, problems in the textile sector accounted for 19% of the issues in the manufacturing sector, of which 15.8% were health problems; namely, skeletal muscle diseases generating skeletal muscle disorders (MSD), this was due to bad practices and an inadequate design of work stations. The importance of working in an adequate work environment is directly related to the prevention of skeletal muscle disorders and work absences. Several studies indicate the importance of an adequate work station design, as well as the correct use of ergonomic methodologies, to be able to evaluate and validate them. However, these focus on the validation of the methodology and not of the process that it encompasses; from the formulation of proposals until validation of them. That is why, the present study is focused on a workstation redesign model that ranges from design proposals to its validation; using observational ergonomic techniques such as REBA, RULA and NIOSH and engineering tools such as Material Handling System (MHS), Method Study, Systematic Interrogation Technique (SIT) and Movement Economics. A 44.42% reduction of the TME was obtained in the jobs of “Tendido”, “Remalle” and in the process of “Abastecimiento de rollo”, also, a reduction of 849 hours of absenteeism and a saving of 5096 soles per year. / Trabajo de investigación

For companies operating within the garment manufacturing industry, having frequent downtimes in their production flows is an extremely common issue. In this context, a balanced production line is required to prevent high waiting times due to limited productive capacity. A well-balanced assembly line allows products to be produced in an optimum time while using less resources, such as machines, materials, or labour, since the right number of products is produced with the exact amount of resources, thus generating savings in production costs. This paper seeks to foster optimum resource allocation through the line balancing tool. Finally, to define a work methodology, best practices were selected, and a procedures manual was developed focusing on Standardization. Both tools were implemented after implementing changes to the company culture by means of the Employee Empowerment tool. As a result of this implementation, workers acquired greater accountability and control over the resources, methods, and equipment of their work areas. After the proposed improvements had been deployed, the company reported an increase of over 20% in production line quality, performance, and efficiency.

La presente investigación tiene como finalidad determinar la influencia de la rotación de inventarios en la rentabilidad de empresas del sector textil en Lima Centro - Gamarra durante el año 2018. El trabajo está dividido en cinco capítulos. En el primer capítulo, se describirá el sector textil, los antecedentes nacionales e internacionales y los conceptos claves como la rotación de inventarios y la rentabilidad, cada uno bajo sus respectivas definiciones e indicadores. En el segundo capítulo, se presentará el plan de investigación que se ejecutará para la investigación. También se explicará el planteamiento del problema, su justificación y a quiénes aportará la investigación. En el tercer capítulo, se plantea la metodología a utilizar en la investigación, así como el tipo de enfoque cuantitativo, cualitativo y mixto. Además, se define la población y muestra a utilizar para validar las hipótesis planteadas en el capítulo dos. En el cuarto capítulo, se procede a explicar las técnicas utilizadas al recolectar todos los datos necesarios según los enfoques escogidos, en este caso, las entrevistas a profundidad con expertos y las encuestas a la muestra escogida. Además, se incluye un caso práctico para poder dar mayor explicación al tema investigado, otro enfoque de investigación. En el quinto capítulo, se presenta el análisis de los resultados obtenidos en el capítulo cuatro, es decir, mediante entrevistas, encuestas y caso práctico, que nos permiten probar y validar las hipótesis de la presente tesis, para finalmente establecer las conclusiones y recomendaciones de esta investigación. / The purpose of this research is to determine the influence of inventory turnover on the profitability of companies in the textile sector in Lima Centro - Gamarra during 2018. The work is divided into five chapters. In the first chapter, the textile sector, national and international background, and key concepts such as inventory turnover and profitability will be described, each under their respective definitions and indicators. In the second chapter, the research plan to be executed for the research will be presented. The approach to the problem, its justification and who the research will contribute to will also be explained. In the third chapter, the methodology to be used in the investigation is presented, as well as the type of quantitative, qualitative and mixed approach. Furthermore, the population is defined and the sample to be used to validate the hypotheses presented in chapter two. In the fourth chapter, we proceed to explain the techniques used when collecting all the necessary data according to the chosen approaches, in this case, in-depth interviews with experts and surveys of the chosen sample. In addition, a practical case is included to give a greater explanation to the investigated topic, another research approach. In the fifth chapter, the analysis of the results obtained in chapter four is presented, that is, through interviews, surveys and a practical case, which allow us to test and validate the hypotheses of this thesis, to finally establish the conclusions and recommendations of this investigation. / Tesis

O setor têxtil, no desenvolvimento das atividades produtivas, causa impactos à saúde ambiental, não existindo indicadores específicos para mensurá-los. Todavia, a Agenda 21, o Pacto Global, a série ISO 14000 e a legislação pertinente mencionam a importância dos indicadores de desenvolvimento sustentável para atividades econômicas. Em virtude dessa proposição, objetivou-se construir, em bases participativas, um rol de indicadores de desenvolvimento sustentável, nas dimensões econômica, social e ambiental, para auxiliar o conhecimento da situação do setor têxtil quanto a esse ponto, limitado ao estado de São Paulo. O método Delphi foi utilizado para a construção dos indicadores com participação de 45 representantes das partes interessadas. Iniciou-se a pesquisa com 30 indicadores do Perform - Sustainability Performance Benchmarking. Após o pré-teste e três rodadas do questionário, foi definido um conjunto de 92 indicadores (13 econômicos, 23 sociais e 56 ambientais). Realizou-se a reunião de validação dos indicadores com 15 representantes das partes interessadas, os quais aprovaram uma lista de 26 indicadores (9 econômicos, 12 sociais e 5 ambientais). Por meio do Discurso do Sujeito Coletivo identificou-se o interesse de gestores do setor em incorporar tais indicadores no rol de indicadores usados pelo setor. Os gestores do sindicato veem os indicadores de desenvolvimento sustentável como elementos importantes para o setor, mas apenas com aplicação futura. Entretanto, existe a possibilidade de efetivação de um projeto piloto com o uso desses indicadores na região de Americana e a divulgação para o setor por intermédio da Câmara Ambiental Têxtil da CETESB. / The textile sector, in its productive activities, causes impacts to the environmental health, and there is a lack of specific indicators to measure them, besides the importance of these indicators mentioned by Agenda 21, the Global Compact, ISO 14000 and the legislation. Due to this proposition, a construction of a sustainable development indicators list, based on participative basis, was developed covering the environmental, social and economic dimensions to help getting to know the textile sector situation, limited to the state of São Paulo. The method Delphi was used to build the indicators with the participation of 45 stakeholder representatives. The survey began with 30 indicators from Perform Sustainability Performance Benchmarking. After the pre-testing, and three round panels, 92 indicators were chosen (13 economic, 23 social and 56 environmental indicators). There was a meeting to validate the indicators with 15 stakeholders who approved 26 indicators (9 economic, 12 socials and 5 environmental indicators). The interest of sectors management to incorporate these indicators was identified through The Collective Subject Discourse methodology. The São Paulo Textile Industry Association managers see the sustainable development indicators as important elements for the sector, but only for future application. There is a possibility to implement a pilot project using these indicators in the region of Americana, and divulge to the sector through the Environmental Textile Chamber from Cetesb.