In the presence of the COVID-19 pandemic, the textile industry faced significant challenges regarding the SC. The importance of managing the relationship between the supplier and buyer was crucial in order to cope with the disruption in the SC. The textile industry implemented measures to manage and minimize the impact of the COVID-19 pandemic. However, there was a crucial missing link between the disruption and how or if the relationship between the buyer and supplier changed. The thesis aims to explore and investigate how Swedish-based fashion textile SC actors (buyers and suppliers) can manage the relationship in the SC and what factors can be identified that characterize a change. Further, the thesis examines the relationship between buyer and supplier, with emphasis on what relationship management factors have changed during the COVID-19 pandemic. The thesis is based on Swedish companies, having a global textile value chain. To satisfy the purpose of this study, a qualitative method with a deductive approach was implemented. The data gathering consisted of primary data, including three semi-structured interviews with two buyer representatives and one supplier representative. Additionally, a literature review was conducted to complement the primary data. The analysis is based on exploring and comparing the themes found in the primary data and the literature review regarding the factors characterizing the change in the relationship between the buyer and the supplier. The common characteristics found in the literature review and primary data indicated the change in the relationship between supplier and buyer during the COVID-19 pandemic. It could be identified that trust and communication strengthened the collaboration between suppliers and buyers during the COVID-19 pandemic. Flexibility was further a factor that characterized a positive change in the relationship because of the deeper understanding between the supplier and the buyer during the pandemic. In contrast to the findings from the interviews, the relationship factor “power” was prominent in the literature review with the characteristic of changing the relationship. However, power was not central in the interviews as a factor enabling changes. The practical implication of this study highlights the importance of the relationship between a supplier and buyer, especially the relationship during a disruption, as the textile SC is complex, and the actors are interconnected. Multiple factors can characterize the change in the relationship. In the thesis, two relationship factors were prominent from the literature and interviews, collaboration, and flexibility. Suppliers and buyers in the textile industry can use the result of this study to improve and understand the relationship factors that can characterize a change in the relationship during a pandemic disruption.

Transparency is a business approach which has become more and more popular for fashion companies to apply in recent years. The purpose of transparency is to publish internal company information for stakeholders. Most often, the information is about how companies act socially, environmentally and economically. This study investigates consumer attitudes towards fashion companies that have chosen to apply transparency in their business practices. In order to explicate previous research, the study also examines how consumers want this information assigned along with what specific information consumers’ request. The study’s empirical data is based on nine qualitative interviews conducted with female consumers of different ages.The result of the study shows that consumers in general have no deeper knowledge or awareness of transparency or corporate social responsibility. This unconsciousness proved to have a major impact on the consumer's behavior, attitude and preferences towards transparency. Even though all respondents have a positive attitude towards the idea of transparency, there is some skepticism about the concept. The intentions of applying transparency and the content that is being conveyed are questioned. Respondents believe that the content can easily be manipulated in order to make companies appear better than they actually are. However, this skepticism can be reduced if an external party can control and review the company's transparency.This study also shows that consumers are happy to see that companies publish and convey internal information. The information should be brief, straightforward and easy to understand. It should be assigned to the consumers, instead of asking the consumers to search for it themselves. Perceptions of how the information should be conveyed differ greatly among respondents depending on age and amount of prior knowledge. Therefore it is crucial for companies to adapt the content and pick an appropriate platform for their customers. By understanding the target group's preferences, companies can more easily find a starting point in their work with corporate social responsibility and more effectively to convey it to stakeholders. However, there is a need to raise general awareness of the industry's problems. A way to do this is by discussing the subject in broader channels. This study is written in Swedish. / Transparens är ett arbetssätt som på senare år har blivit mer och mer populärt för klädföretag att applicera. Syftet med transparens är att kunna offentliggöra intern företagsinformation för intressenter. Oftast handlar informationen om hur företag agerar socialt, miljömässigt och ekonomiskt. Denna studie undersöker konsumenters attityder till klädföretag som väljer att applicera transparens i sin verksamhet. För att utveckla tidigare forskningen undersöks även hur konsumenter vill tilldelas denna information och vad för specifik information som efterfrågas. Studiens empiri bygger på nio stycken kvalitativa intervjuer som hållits med kvinnliga konsumenter i olika åldrar.Resultatet i denna studie visar att konsumenter överlag inte har någon djupare kunskap eller medvetenhet om transparens och företags arbete med deras sociala och miljömässiga ansvar. Denna omedvetenhet visade sig ha en stor påverkan på konsumentens beteende, attityd och preferenser till transparens. Även om samtliga respondenter är positivt inställda till idén av transparens finns en skepsis till konceptet. Avsikterna med att applicera transparens och vad som förmedlas ifrågasätts. Respondenter anser att innehållet lätt kan förskönas i syfte att få företag att framstå som bättre än vad de egentligen är. Denna skepsis anses dock kunna minska om en extern part kan kontrollera och granska företags transparens.Denna studie redogör även att konsumenter gärna ser att företag offentliggör och förmedlar intern information. Formatet ska då gärna vara kortfattat och lättförstått, informationen ska tilldelas konsumenten istället för att konsumenten själv ska behöva leta upp den. Hur detta ska förmedlas skiljer sig mycket åt mellan respondenterna beroende på ålder och mängd förkunskap. Därför är det särskilt viktigt för företag att utgå från den specifika målgruppen för att kunna välja ett passande format att förmedla via den mest lämpliga plattformen. Genom att förstå sin målgrupps preferenser kan företag lättare finna en utgångspunkt i sitt arbete med samhällsansvar och mer effektivt förmedla detta till intressenter. Dock finns det ett behov av att lyfta branschens problematik utanför företagen och öka konsumenters medvetenhet genom att diskutera ämnet i bredare kanaler

Transparency is a business approach which has become more and more popular for fashion companies to apply in recent years. The purpose of transparency is to publish internal company information for stakeholders. Most often, the information is about how companies act socially, environmentally and economically. This study investigates consumer attitudes towards fashion companies that have chosen to apply transparency in their business practices. In order to explicate previous research, the study also examines how consumers want this information assigned along with what specific information consumers’ request. The study’s empirical data is based on nine qualitative interviews conducted with female consumers of different ages. The result of the study shows that consumers in general have no deeper knowledge or awareness of transparency or corporate social responsibility. This unconsciousness proved to have a major impact on the consumer's behavior, attitude and preferences towards transparency. Even though all respondents have a positive attitude towards the idea of transparency, there is some skepticism about the concept. The intentions of applying transparency and the content that is being conveyed are questioned. Respondents believe that the content can easily be manipulated in order to make companies appear better than they actually are. However, this skepticism can be reduced if an external party can control and review the company's transparency. This study also shows that consumers are happy to see that companies publish and convey internal information. The information should be brief, straightforward and easy to understand. It should be assigned to the consumers, instead of asking the consumers to search for it themselves. Perceptions of how the information should be conveyed differ greatly among respondents depending on age and amount of prior knowledge. Therefore it is crucial for companies to adapt the content and pick an appropriate platform for their customers. By understanding the target group's preferences, companies can more easily find a starting point in their work with corporate social responsibility and more effectively to convey it to stakeholders. However, there is a need to raise general awareness of the industry's problems. A way to do this is by discussing the subject in broader channels. This study is written in Swedish. / Transparens är ett arbetssätt som på senare år har blivit mer och mer populärt för klädföretag att applicera. Syftet med transparens är att kunna offentliggöra intern företagsinformation för intressenter. Oftast handlar informationen om hur företag agerar socialt, miljömässigt och ekonomiskt. Denna studie undersöker konsumenters attityder till klädföretag som väljer att applicera transparens i sin verksamhet. För att utveckla tidigare forskningen undersöks även hur konsumenter vill tilldelas denna information och vad för specifik information som efterfrågas. Studiens empiri bygger på nio stycken kvalitativa intervjuer som hållits med kvinnliga konsumenter i olika åldrar. Resultatet i denna studie visar att konsumenter överlag inte har någon djupare kunskap eller medvetenhet om transparens och företags arbete med deras sociala och miljömässiga ansvar. Denna omedvetenhet visade sig ha en stor påverkan på konsumentens beteende, attityd och preferenser till transparens. Även om samtliga respondenter är positivt inställda till idén av transparens finns en skepsis till konceptet. Avsikterna med att applicera transparens och vad som förmedlas ifrågasätts. Respondenter anser att innehållet lätt kan förskönas i syfte att få företag att framstå som bättre än vad de egentligen är. Denna skepsis anses dock kunna minska om en extern part kan kontrollera och granska företags transparens. Denna studie redogör även att konsumenter gärna ser att företag offentliggör och förmedlar intern information. Formatet ska då gärna vara kortfattat och lättförstått, informationen ska tilldelas konsumenten istället för att konsumenten själv ska behöva leta upp den. Hur detta ska förmedlas skiljer sig mycket åt mellan respondenterna beroende på ålder och mängd förkunskap. Därför är det särskilt viktigt för företag att utgå från den specifika målgruppen för att kunna välja ett passande format att förmedla via den mest lämpliga plattformen. Genom att förstå sin målgrupps preferenser kan företag lättare finna en utgångspunkt i sitt arbete med samhällsansvar och mer effektivt förmedla detta till intressenter. Dock finns det ett behov av att lyfta branschens problematik utanför företagen och öka konsumenters medvetenhet genom att diskutera ämnet i bredare kanaler.

Este trabalho se propõe a desenvolver um método de avaliação da base de fornecedores da cadeia de suprimentos têxtil com foco na realização de uma auditoria das competências operacionais que avalie as práticas da organização auditada em relação aos objetivos de desempenho em qualidade, custo e entrega (QCE). O método proposto deve apoiar as etapas de qualificação, de tomada de decisão e de monitoramento no processo de avaliação da base de fornecedores. A abordagem proposta para a elaboração do método foi a de adotar as práticas promovidas pelo pensamento enxuto, devido às necessidades do setor têxtil no contexto atual. O método foi elaborado a partir de modelos de avaliação sistemática de competências sob a perspectiva do pensamento enxuto. O primeiro objetivo buscado neste trabalho foi verificar se a abordagem de verificar a adoção das práticas promovidas pelo pensamento enxuto pode ser estendida para o processo de avaliação das competências operacionais dos fornecedores em relação aos objetivos de QCE no contexto da cadeia têxtil. O segundo objetivo foi elaborar e testar um método de avaliação das competências operacionais dos fornecedores em relação aos objetivos de QCE baseado na abordagem do pensamento enxuto. O terceiro objetivo foi de explorar como o método proposto para avaliação de fornecedores pode ser utilizado para enriquecer as etapas de tomada de decisão e de monitoramento no processo de avaliação da base de fornecedores em uma organização. Para buscar estes objetivos foi realizada uma pesquisa de campo em organizações da cadeia têxtil brasileira. Os métodos de pesquisa aplicados foram a observação participante, que foi aplicado pelo pesquisador em 10 em organizações enquanto registrava as observações e levantava os dados necessários, a pesquisa quase-experimental e a aplicação do método proposto no direcionamento do monitoramento de fornecedores, ambos aplicados em 6 organizações onde o pesquisador realizou observações e entrevistas para coleta de dados. Também foram coletados dados referentes a estas 6 organizações numa organização compradora que é cliente das mesmas. Os dados coletados serviram para verificar a aderência desses fornecedores às práticas de produção enxuta, bem como a relação entre estas práticas e o desempenho histórico dos fornecedores. Da análise desses dados, resultaram recomendações para apoiar a tomada de decisão sobre a forma de tratar cada fornecedor a qual foi comparada com a que a organização compradora havia decidido. Os dados também foram utilizados para analisar cada fornecedor por meio de uma matriz que relaciona suas competências operacionais em termos de QCE com a importância que a organização compradora atribui a cada um desses objetivos. A conclusão da pesquisa é de que o método proposto é adequado para avaliar fornecedores na cadeia têxtil, porém revelou ter limitações para ser usado na avaliação de fornecedores posicionados em determinadas partes da cadeia. Também é mostrado que o método proposto pode ajudar a organização compradora a evitar decisões equivocadas na tomada de decisão e que pode ainda ajudar a refinar o monitoramento da base de fornecedores. / This study aims to develop a method of evaluation of the textile supply chain supplier base focusing the realization of an audit of operational capabilities to assess the practices of the audited organization in relation to performance goals in quality, cost and delivery (QCD). The proposed method should support the steps of qualification, decision-making and monitoring in the evaluation of the supply base. The approach proposed for the development of the method was to adopt the practices promoted by lean thinking, in face of the needs of the textile sector in the current context. The method was developed based on models of systematic evaluation of capabilities from the lean thinking perspective. The first objective pursued in this work was to examine whether the approach to verify the adoption of practices promoted by lean thinking can be extended to the process of evaluating the suppliers\' operational capabilities regarding QCD goals in the context of the textile chain. The second objective was to develop and test a method for assessing the suppliers\' operational capabilities regarding QCD goals based on the lean thinking approach. The third objective was to explore how the proposed method for supplier assessment can be used to enrich the steps of decision-making and monitoring in the evaluation of supplier base in an organization. To pursue these objectives a field research was conducted in organizations of the Brazilian textile chain. The applied research methods were participant observation, which was applied by the author in 10 organizations while he registered observations and raised the required data, quasi-experimental research and the application of the proposed method in guidance of supplier monitoring, both applied in 6 organizations where the author conducted observations and interviews to collect data. Data on these 6 organizations were also collected in an organization which is their client. The collected data served to examine the adherence of these suppliers to lean manufacturing practices and the relationship between these practices and the suppliers\' historical performance. The analysis of these data rendered recommendations to support decision making as for how to deal with each supplier which was compared to the decision the client-organization had taken. The data were also used to analyze each supplier through a matrix that relates their operational skills in QCD with the importance given by the client-organization to each of these goals. The conclusion of the research is that the proposed method is suitable for evaluating suppliers in the textile chain, but revealed limitations to be used in the assessment of vendors placed in certain parts of the chain. It is also shown that the proposed method can assist the client organization to avoid wrong decisions in decision making and can also be helpful to refine the monitoring of the supplier base.

Fast fashion and over consumption within the textile industry has led to a serious depletion of natural resources. The current rate of population growth and consumption is unsustainable. In result, there is a growing interested in sustainable solutions, one of which is reverse supply chains. Infrastructures for recycling textile fibers are being researched and developed. At the same time, it is important to put a focus on also developing the infrastructures for textile recollection. When examining a forward supply chain, the last mile, or point of distribution to the final consumer, can be considered the most costly when it comes to logistics costs. As a result, within a reverse supply chain the point of textile recollection, or the “first mile” as defined by the authors, can also be considered problematic in terms of logistical costs. Cirqle is a Swedish based app using ICT to aide in the recollection of used textiles, by offering app users rewards (discounts) for used textile returns at specific retailers. Through gathering specific information about app users, ICT companies such as Cirqle, are key to optimizing reverse supply chains, and in result, aiding in the reduction of the “first mile problem”. Due to the research gap identified by the authors, the purpose of this thesis is to explore how a digital infrastructure for collecting used garments, such as the Cirqle App, can be used to optimize location‟s for collection points; therefore minimizing the first mile problem of reverse logistics in the textile industry.

Este trabalho se propõe a desenvolver um método de avaliação da base de fornecedores da cadeia de suprimentos têxtil com foco na realização de uma auditoria das competências operacionais que avalie as práticas da organização auditada em relação aos objetivos de desempenho em qualidade, custo e entrega (QCE). O método proposto deve apoiar as etapas de qualificação, de tomada de decisão e de monitoramento no processo de avaliação da base de fornecedores. A abordagem proposta para a elaboração do método foi a de adotar as práticas promovidas pelo pensamento enxuto, devido às necessidades do setor têxtil no contexto atual. O método foi elaborado a partir de modelos de avaliação sistemática de competências sob a perspectiva do pensamento enxuto. O primeiro objetivo buscado neste trabalho foi verificar se a abordagem de verificar a adoção das práticas promovidas pelo pensamento enxuto pode ser estendida para o processo de avaliação das competências operacionais dos fornecedores em relação aos objetivos de QCE no contexto da cadeia têxtil. O segundo objetivo foi elaborar e testar um método de avaliação das competências operacionais dos fornecedores em relação aos objetivos de QCE baseado na abordagem do pensamento enxuto. O terceiro objetivo foi de explorar como o método proposto para avaliação de fornecedores pode ser utilizado para enriquecer as etapas de tomada de decisão e de monitoramento no processo de avaliação da base de fornecedores em uma organização. Para buscar estes objetivos foi realizada uma pesquisa de campo em organizações da cadeia têxtil brasileira. Os métodos de pesquisa aplicados foram a observação participante, que foi aplicado pelo pesquisador em 10 em organizações enquanto registrava as observações e levantava os dados necessários, a pesquisa quase-experimental e a aplicação do método proposto no direcionamento do monitoramento de fornecedores, ambos aplicados em 6 organizações onde o pesquisador realizou observações e entrevistas para coleta de dados. Também foram coletados dados referentes a estas 6 organizações numa organização compradora que é cliente das mesmas. Os dados coletados serviram para verificar a aderência desses fornecedores às práticas de produção enxuta, bem como a relação entre estas práticas e o desempenho histórico dos fornecedores. Da análise desses dados, resultaram recomendações para apoiar a tomada de decisão sobre a forma de tratar cada fornecedor a qual foi comparada com a que a organização compradora havia decidido. Os dados também foram utilizados para analisar cada fornecedor por meio de uma matriz que relaciona suas competências operacionais em termos de QCE com a importância que a organização compradora atribui a cada um desses objetivos. A conclusão da pesquisa é de que o método proposto é adequado para avaliar fornecedores na cadeia têxtil, porém revelou ter limitações para ser usado na avaliação de fornecedores posicionados em determinadas partes da cadeia. Também é mostrado que o método proposto pode ajudar a organização compradora a evitar decisões equivocadas na tomada de decisão e que pode ainda ajudar a refinar o monitoramento da base de fornecedores. / This study aims to develop a method of evaluation of the textile supply chain supplier base focusing the realization of an audit of operational capabilities to assess the practices of the audited organization in relation to performance goals in quality, cost and delivery (QCD). The proposed method should support the steps of qualification, decision-making and monitoring in the evaluation of the supply base. The approach proposed for the development of the method was to adopt the practices promoted by lean thinking, in face of the needs of the textile sector in the current context. The method was developed based on models of systematic evaluation of capabilities from the lean thinking perspective. The first objective pursued in this work was to examine whether the approach to verify the adoption of practices promoted by lean thinking can be extended to the process of evaluating the suppliers\' operational capabilities regarding QCD goals in the context of the textile chain. The second objective was to develop and test a method for assessing the suppliers\' operational capabilities regarding QCD goals based on the lean thinking approach. The third objective was to explore how the proposed method for supplier assessment can be used to enrich the steps of decision-making and monitoring in the evaluation of supplier base in an organization. To pursue these objectives a field research was conducted in organizations of the Brazilian textile chain. The applied research methods were participant observation, which was applied by the author in 10 organizations while he registered observations and raised the required data, quasi-experimental research and the application of the proposed method in guidance of supplier monitoring, both applied in 6 organizations where the author conducted observations and interviews to collect data. Data on these 6 organizations were also collected in an organization which is their client. The collected data served to examine the adherence of these suppliers to lean manufacturing practices and the relationship between these practices and the suppliers\' historical performance. The analysis of these data rendered recommendations to support decision making as for how to deal with each supplier which was compared to the decision the client-organization had taken. The data were also used to analyze each supplier through a matrix that relates their operational skills in QCD with the importance given by the client-organization to each of these goals. The conclusion of the research is that the proposed method is suitable for evaluating suppliers in the textile chain, but revealed limitations to be used in the assessment of vendors placed in certain parts of the chain. It is also shown that the proposed method can assist the client organization to avoid wrong decisions in decision making and can also be helpful to refine the monitoring of the supplier base.