This research is set in the context of a collaborative agreement between the Industrial Design Department, University of Canberra and the Faculty of Applied Art and Design at Ubon Rajathanee University in the northeast or Isan region of Thailand. In this thesis the textile production of the region was studied with an objective of evaluating the potential for product design process to positively influence production outcomes. Traditional textile production techniques could be lost because these processes are complex and slow, and the current environment, both physical and operational, is changing rapidly. Product design and the design process are relevant to the industrial development of Thailand and village textile production could benefit from structured design and manufacturing strategies that have a consumer focus and improved production outcomes. From a critical review of the relevant literature, it was found that village weavers valued the traditions of their craft and traditional patterns and colours were important in terms of cultural identity and village social organization. Product design process or more specifically, the Generic Design Process (GDP) was reviewed and a model developed that adapted the GDP to the prevailing research environment. The findings led to a program of field research including village interviews where the major issue of the devaluation of traditional natural material dyeing techniques was identified. Field experiments tested alternative dyeing techniques which were evaluated in a survey by village weavers. During the field research care was taken to adapt to the way in which village weavers lived and worked as the two activities were closely interrelated. The degree of skill and knowledge residing in the aging women, who constitute the majority of village weavers, in extensive and profound, and is often described as an example of local wisdom. The theoretical and experimental work has been related, with appropriate results and conclusions, to the potential for maintaining traditional natural dyeing processes albeit with different preservation techniques. The findings from this research suggests that product design processes are appropriate for village production and that the tradition of natural material colour dyes will survive, new colours were created and the potential for new trade in preserved colour dye products. Substantial databases of useful relevant information have been compiled and recommendations are made for future research.

Les moyens mis en oeuvre chez les animaux domestiques pour lutter contre les maladies dépendent de leur vitesse de propagation, de leur virulence et surtout de leur capacité à passer la barrière d'espèce. Certaines maladies entraînent des pertes économiques importantes chez l'animal(des centaines de milliers de vaches ont été abattues pendant l'épidémie de BSE). Bien plus, dans le cas des zoonoses, maladies transmissibles à l'homme, il convient d'appliquer des mesures de lutte extrêmement onéreuses s'organisant dans les élevages mais aussi à l'échelle des populations. Plusieurs stratégies de prévention et/ou de traitement des maladies infectieuses sont possibles: les traitements chimiques, la vaccination, la désinfection des bâtiments d'élevage et la conduite des troupeaux, le contrôle sanitaire et la traçabilité des produits alimentaires,l'abattage partiel ou total des troupeaux infectés. Ces mesures peuvent être très onéreuses et parfois peu efficaces. Ces maladies peuvent être mono ou multifactorielles. Quand une maladie est en partie régulée par une prédisposition génétique, il est possible de choisir des reproducteurs les plus résistants et diminuer ainsi l'incidence de la maladie. Si cette prédisposition est monogénique, ou pour le moins sous l'influence d'un gène à effet majeur, comme par exemple dans la tremblante ovine,la sélection assistée par gène peut être une stratégie complémentaire aux stratégies déjà existantes. Mais cette sélection ne peut se faire indépendamment de celle des caractères traditionnels de production qui ont permis d'améliorer par exemple la quantité de lait en races laitières ou le nombre et la croissance des animaux en races bouchères. La question qui se pose alors est d'arriver le plus rapidement possible à une incidence quasi nulle de la maladie en créant une population essentiellement porteuse des allèles de résistance au gène sélectionné tout en évitant de perdre le gain génétique acquis sur les caractères traditionnels de production. L'objectif de cette thèse a été de répondre à cette question en proposant une approche paramétrique permettant de modéliser et d'optimiser la stratégie de sélection. Le paramétrage du modèle permet de décrire de manière détaillée les caractéristiques du/des gène(s) de résistance sélectionné(s) et celles du schéma de sélection sur les caractères de production, souvent complexes chez les animaux domestiques. Les sorties du modèle sont l'évolution des distributions des caractères de production (moyennes, variabilités) et des fréquences des allèles de résistance / sensibilité. Afin de prendre en compte le processus de sélection, une modélisation dynamique a été utilisée. Des approches déterministe et stochastique ont été développées et ont été optimisées à l'aide d'un algorithme génétique. La stratégie optimale difficile à promouvoir sur le terrain a été alors considérée comme référence pour la mise en place de stratégies de sélection acceptables et efficaces. Il est possible ainsi d'évaluer différents scénarios concernant par exemple l'organisation du génotypage (pour le gène de résistance) dans la population sélectionnée, le choix des conjoints selon leur génotype, ainsi que la méthode de diffusion des reproducteurs vers les élevages de production. La méthodologie développée lors de ce travail a été appliquée au cas de la tremblante du mouton, un exemple possible parmi d'autres maladies. Différentes stratégies proches de l'optimale ont été combinée à un modèle épidémiologique afin d'analyser l'impact de ces dernières sur l'évolution de la maladie. / The resources to be used in domestic animals to fight against the diseases depend on their diffusion speed, their virulence and especially their ability to pass the species barrier. Some diseases cause significant economic losses in animals (hundreds of thousands of cows were culled during the BSE epidemic). Moreover, in the zoonotic case, diseases transmissible to humans, measures to be implemented are generally extremely expensive both at the farm and population levels. Several strategies for the prevention and / or treatment of infectious diseases are possible : chemical treatments, vaccination, disinfection of livestock buildings and herd management, health monitoring and traceability of food products, or partial or full slaughtering of herds . These measures can be very costly and sometimes ineffective. These diseases can be mono or multifactorial. In the case of genetic diseases (most often single gene such as sheep scrapie), gene-assisted selection can be a complementary strategy to existing strategies. But this selection can not be done independently of the selection of the traditional production traits such as the quantity of milk in dairy breeds or the number and the growth of animals in beef breeds. The question that arises is how to reach as quickly as possible an almost zero incidence of the disease by creating a population displaying a high proportion of the resistant allele at the gene of interest while minimizing the loss of genetic progress on traditional production traits. The objective of this thesis was to answer this question by proposing a parametric approach to model and optimize the selection strategy. The parametrization of the model allowed to describe in detail the characteristics of the gene (s) selected for resistance (s) and those of the breeding scheme on production traits, often complex in domestic animals. The model outputs were the evolution of distributions of production traits (means, variability) and allele frequencies of resistance / sensitivity. To take into account the selection process, a dynamic model was used. Deterministic and stochastic approaches have been developed and have been optimized using a genetic algorithm. The optimal strategy may be difficult to apply. The optimal strategy may be taken as a reference for the development of selection strategies. It is thus possible to evaluate different scenarios such as the genotyping organization (for the resistance gene) in the selected population, the choice of the mating according to their genotype, the method of dissemination of reproducers to the production farms. The methodology developed in this work has been applied to the scrapie case, a possible example among other diseases. Different strategies close to optimal have been combined with an epidemiological model to analyze their impact of the spread of the disease.

Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior - CAPES / Estância, a city located in the southern region of the state of Sergipe, presents unique traditions in its June celebrations. In addition to these festivities, the place is highlighted by its production of fireworks and the culture of the boat of fire. This research aims to analyze the production of fires as an income strategy based on tradition for the reproduction of family groups. It sought to understand the relationship between this identity tradition and the cultural landscape, as well as the role of networks, ties and webs that are built and maintained by the maintenance and strengthening of this cultural activity. In addition to the geographical contributions, it is intended to give visibility to the invisible subjects - producers of fires. In order to reach these objectives, the methodological approach adopted was based on the collection of theoretical information through bibliographic research related to the themes related to culture, identity, parties, patrimony, knowledge, actions, proximity relations and the concept of cultural landscape.Next, the field work was carried out, when the primary information was collected through semi-structured interviews with the firemen, helpers, firemen traders, representatives of public institutions and local population. As a result, it was found that, for the local population, the production of fires is relevant to the municipality, constituting the main attraction of the junina festival, and that, for the rockets, it consists in the preservation of a local traditional know-how that provides income. The "barracks" of production in the neighborhoods (Porto D'Areia, Bonfim, Alecrim and Pueblado Disilena) were identified, the stages, materials and processes of the production as well as the proximity relations between the rockets, the commercialization of the fires June to other Sergipe municipalities to states such as Rio de Janeiro, São Paulo and Bahia. Although production has modernized in some respects, with the insertion of some machines and equipment, the essence of the tradition continues, since the manufacture of fireworks and fire boats indicates that the traditional and modern modes coexist. It was observed that the rockets are looking forward to some changes in terms of compliance with the deadlines for payment of their fires, the construction of larger sheds by the municipal government and participation in the organization of the rules of fire competitions that occur annually during the June cycle. For the local population and the rockets, the production of fires and the June festivities in Estância conform a cultural landscape. / Estância, cidade localizada na região Sul do estado de Sergipe, apresenta nos seus festejos juninos tradições singulares. Além dessas festividades, o lugar é destaque por sua produção de fogos juninos e a cultura do barco de fogo. Esta pesquisa tem por objetivo analisar a produção de fogos como estratégia de renda alicerçada na tradição para a reprodução de grupos familiares. Buscou-se compreender a relação entre essa tradição identitária e a paisagem cultural, bem como também o papel das redes, os laços e as teias que são construídas e mantidas pela manutenção e fortalecimento dessa atividade cultural. Para além das contribuições geográficas, pretende-se dar visibilidade aos sujeitos invisíveis – produtores de fogos. Para atingir tais objetivos o caminho metodológico adotado partiu da coleta de informações teóricas com através de pesquisa bibliográfica relacionada às temáticas relacionadas a cultura, identidade, festas, patrimônio, saberes, fazeres, relações de proximidade e o conceito de paisagem cultural. Em seguida, foi realizado o trabalho de campo, quando foram coletadas as informações primárias através de entrevistas semiestruturadas com os fogueteiros, ajudantes, comerciantes de fogos, representantes de instituições públicas e população local. Como resultado, constatou-se que, para a população local, a produção de fogos é relevante para o município, constituindo o principal atrativo da festa junina, e que, para os fogueteiros, consiste na preservação de um saber fazer tradicional local que proporciona renda. Foram identificados os “barracões” de produção nos bairros (Porto D’areia, Bonfim, Alecrim e Povoado Disilena), foi evidenciada as etapas, materiais e processos da produção bem como as relações de proximidade entre os fogueteiros, o alcance da comercialização dos fogos juninos para outros municípios sergipanos até estados como Rio de Janeiro, São Paulo e Bahia. Embora a produção tenha se modernizado em alguns aspectos, com a inserção de algumas máquinas e equipamentos, a essência da tradição continua, já que a fabricação de fogos e de barcos de fogo aponta que os modos tradicional e moderno coexistem. Constatou-se que os fogueteiros anseiam por algumas mudanças no tocante ao cumprimento dos prazos de pagamentos dos seus fogos, à construção de barracões de maiores dimensões pela prefeitura municipal e à participação na organização das normas das competições de fogos que ocorrem anualmente durante o ciclo junino. Para a população local e os fogueteiros, a produção de fogos e as festividades juninas em Estância conformam uma paisagem cultural. / São Cristóvão, SE

Submitted by Edineia Teixeira (edineia.teixeira@unioeste.br) on 2017-09-05T17:45:54Z No. of bitstreams: 2 FLÁVIA_CASSOL2017.pdf: 1685226 bytes, checksum: 8f79384919a244c9ef937f3069f3c88d (MD5) license_rdf: 0 bytes, checksum: d41d8cd98f00b204e9800998ecf8427e (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2017-09-05T17:45:54Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 2 FLÁVIA_CASSOL2017.pdf: 1685226 bytes, checksum: 8f79384919a244c9ef937f3069f3c88d (MD5) license_rdf: 0 bytes, checksum: d41d8cd98f00b204e9800998ecf8427e (MD5) Previous issue date: 2017-02-10 / Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior - CAPES / The consumption of functional foods, such as beans, has brought important benefits to health, consequently, there is an increasing demand for organic products, which are considered healthier. However, due to the genetic variability of this crop, it is necessary to evaluate it in the field then determine which cultivars are most adapted to different cropping managements, as well as establish the quality attributes involved in the preservation of this leguminous. Thus, this trial aimed at evaluating the agronomic characteristics of carioca beans, cropped in organic and conventional systems, indicating which cultivars are most adapted to each system as well as characterizing the cooling storage effect and in uncontrolled environmental conditions, in order to preserve nutritional and technological characteristics of these grains. Multivariate techniques were applied to determine which variables influenced most on beans quality, and to verify similarities between conservation methods and how carioca beans were produced. Eight carioca bean cultivars were sown in the organic and conventional systems, and the correlation between the production and yield components was evaluated. The studied cultivars were evaluated when freshly harvested (S); and after 180 storage days under refrigeration (R) and environmental conditions (A); according to the nutritional characteristics: protein (Ptn), calcium (Ca), iron (Fe), phosphorus (P), phytic acid (Fit), tannins, antioxidant capacity (DPPH) and technologic characteristics: grain mass (GM), water content (WC), electrical conductivity, grain color (L*, a*, b*, H * and C *) and sphericity, texture, cooking time (CT) and hydration capacity (HC). According to yield, cultivars such as Andorinha, Curió, Estilo, Emperador and Notável were more adapted to the organic cropping, while all the tested cultivars, except Curió, can be indicated to the conventional cropping. The variables that showed the highest correlation with yield were the number of pods in organic beans and plant height in the conventional ones. The cooling storage preserved the technological quality of organic beans, increased the antioxidant capacity and kept higher amount of iron in beans. It also contributed to phosphorus decrease and the significant increases of Fit and tannins, considered antinutritional factors. Campos Gerais beans is a cultivar from IAPAR that showed the best results on quality preservation after six months of storage. According to these data, the main and cluster components (APC) were analyzed. Thus, variables such as Ptn, Ca, P, Fit, tannins, DPPH, CH, TC, MG and H * influenced most beans quality, and were defined according to APC use. Based on the use of Cluster, it is possible to classify cultivars into groups and verify that the refrigerated storage was effective in maintaining their quality. In addition, this technique showed the similarity between organic and conventional beans that belonged to the same cultivar. / O consumo de alimentos funcionais, como o feijão, traz benefícios importantes para a saúde. A procura por produtos de origem orgânica, considerados mais saudáveis, tem, também, contribuído para o aumento no seu consumo. No entanto, devido à variabilidade genética dessa cultura, faz-se necessária sua avaliação no campo, para determinar os cultivares mais adaptados a diferentes formas de cultivo e estabelecer os atributos de qualidade envolvidos na preservação dessa leguminosa. Nesse sentido, os objetivos desta pesquisa foram: avaliar as características agronômicas de feijão carioca, cultivado em sistema orgânico e convencional, indicar os cultivares mais adaptados a cada sistema e caracterizar o efeito do armazenamento refrigerado e em condições ambientais não controladas, na preservação das características nutricionais e tecnológicas desses grãos, usando técnicas multivariadas para determinar as variáveis que mais influenciam na qualidade dos feijões e verificar semelhanças entre as formas de conservação e modo de produção dos feijões carioca. Foram semeados oito cultivares de feijão carioca nos sistemas orgânico e convencional para avaliar a correlação entre as componentes da produção e a produtividade. Após a colheita, os cultivares foram avaliados recém-colhidos (S) e depois de 180 dias de armazenamento, em condições refrigeradas (R) e ambientais (A), quanto às características nutricionais: proteína (Ptn), cálcio (Ca), ferro (Fe), fósforo (P), ácido fítico (Fit) e taninos, capacidade antioxidante (DPPH) e tecnológica: massa de grãos (MG), teor de água (Ta), condutividade elétrica, coloração dos grãos (L*, a*, b*, H* e C*), esfericidade, textura, tempo de cocção (TC) e capacidade de hidratação (CH). De acordo com a produtividade, os cultivares Andorinha, Curió, Estilo, Imperador e Notável mostraram-se mais adaptados ao cultivo orgânico, enquanto todos os cultivares testados, exceto Curió, podem ser indicados ao cultivo convencional. As variáveis que mostraram maior correlação com a produtividade foram o número de vagens nos feijões orgânicos e a altura da planta, no sistema convencional. Nos feijões orgânicos, o armazenamento refrigerado preservou a qualidade tecnológica, aumentou a capacidade antioxidante e manteve maior a quantidade de Fe dos grãos, além de contribuir para a diminuição do P e o aumento significativo dos Fit e taninos, considerados fatores antinutricionais. Os feijões do cultivar IAPAR Campos Gerais foram os que melhor preservaram a qualidade após o armazenamento de 180 dias. Diante desses dados, foram realizadas análises dos componentes principais (APC) e de agrupamento (Cluster). As variáveis que mais influenciaram a qualidade dos feijões foram definidas com o uso da APC, sendo elas Ptn, Ca, P, Fit, taninos, DPPH, CH, TC, MG e H*. Com a utilização do Cluster, é possível classificar os cultivares em grupos e verificar que o armazenamento refrigerado foi eficaz na manutenção da qualidade. Além disso, essa técnica mostrou a semelhança entre os feijões orgânicos e convencionais pertencentes ao mesmo cultivar.