Ocean wave energy is considered to be one of the important potential renewable energy resources for sustainable development. Various wave energy converter technologies have been proposed to harvest the energy from ocean waves. This thesis is based on the linear generator wave energy converter developed at Uppsala University. The research in this thesis focuses on the foundation optimization and the power absorption optimization of the wave energy converters and on the wave climate modelling at the Lysekil wave converter test site. The foundation optimization study of the gravity-based foundation of the linear wave energy converter is based on statistical analysis of wave climate data measured at the Lysekil test site. The 25 years return extreme significant wave height and its associated mean zero-crossing period are chosen as the maximum wave for the maximum heave and surge forces evaluation. The power absorption optimization study on the linear generator wave energy converter is based on the wave climate at the Lysekil test site. A frequency-domain simplified numerical model is used with the power take-off damping coefficient chosen as the control parameter for optimizing the power absorption. The results show a large improvement with an optimized power take-off damping coefficient adjusted to the characteristics of the wave climate at the test site. The wave climate modelling studies are based on the wave climate data measured at the Lysekil test site. A new mixed distribution method is proposed for modelling the significant wave height. This method gives impressive goodness of fit with the measured wave data. A copula method is applied to the bivariate joint distribution of the significant wave height and the wave period. The results show an excellent goodness of fit for the Gumbel model. The general applicability of the proposed mixed-distribution method and the copula method are illustrated with wave climate data from four other sites. The results confirm the good performance of the mixed-distribution and the Gumbel copula model for the modelling of significant wave height and bivariate wave climate.

A wave energy converter has been constructed and its function and operational characteristics have been thoroughly investigated and published. The wave energy converter was installed in March of 2006 approximately two kilometers off the Swedish west coast in the proximity of the town Lysekil. Since then the converter has been submerged at the research site for over two and a half years and in operation during three time periods for a total of 12 months, the latest being during five months of 2008. Throughout this time the generated electricity has been transmitted to shore and operational data has been recorded. The wave energy converter and its connected electrical system has been continually upgraded and each of the three operational periods have investigated more advanced stages in the progression toward grid connection. The wave energy system has faced the challenges of the ocean and initial results and insights have been reached, most important being that the overall wave energy concept has been verified. Experiments have shown that slowly varying power generation from ocean waves is possible. Apart from the wave energy converter, three shorter studies have been performed. A sensor was designed for measuring the air gap width of the linear generator used in the wave energy converter. The sensor consists of an etched coil, a search coil, that functions passively through induction. Theory and experiment showed good agreement. The Swedish west coast wave climate has been studied in detail. The study used eight years of wave data from 13 sites in the Skagerrak and Kattegatt, and data from a wave measurement buoy located at the wave energy research site. The study resulted in scatter diagrams, hundred year extreme wave estimations, and a mapping of the energy flux in the area. The average energy flux was found to be approximately 5.2 kW/m in the offshore Skagerrak, 2.8 kW/m in the near shore Skagerrak, and 2.4 kW/m in the Kattegat. A method for evaluating renewable energy technologies in terms of economy and engineering solutions has been investigated. The match between the technologies and the fundamental physics of renewable energy sources can be given in terms of the technology’s utilization. It is argued that engineers should strive for a high utilization if competitive technologies are to be developed.

Esta tesis doctoral se ha centrado en el estudio de la variabilidad climática de los valores extremos de oleaje, abordando distintas escalas espaciales, en las que se tienen en cuenta los procesos físicos propios de cada una de ellas, y diferentes escalas temporales. Se han utilizado distintos modelos y técnicas estadísticas aportando avances y mejoras en ellos. Se ha hecho un análisis histórico con distintas bases de datos caracterizando el clima marítimo extremal en profundidades indefinidas, a escala global y regional (Sur de Europa y América Latina) y en profundidades reducidas (Mediterráneo español y Golfo de Cádiz). Se han estudiado también las proyecciones de clima marítimo extremal a distintos escenarios de cambio climático, para lo que se aporta una metodología innovadora basada en un downscaling estadístico que combina climatología sinóptica y extremos de oleaje. / The study of extreme wave climate variability dealing with different spatial and temporal scales is presented. We have conducted the characterization of extreme wave climate in deep and shallow waters using different numerical models and statistical methods which have been tested and improved. First, a historical analysis of wave data has been performed analyzing temporal variability of global and regional (South of Europe and South America) extreme wave height. In the local scale an integral methodology has been developed to characterize extreme wave climate variability in shell waters and has been applied to the Spanish Mediterranean coasts. The study of climate change projections of extreme wave heights is also conducted. A new methodology based on statistical downscaling, which combines synoptic climatology with extreme wave events, has been developed to project the extreme wave height to different climate change scenarios.

La flèche littorale du Cap Ferret s'est édifiée au cours des derniers 3 000 ans, à la faveur du ralentissement de l'élévation du niveau global des océans. Depuis 250 ans, les cartes marines révèlent une importante instabilité de l'extrémité libre de la flèche, à laquelle les travaux présentés dans ce mémoire tentent d'apporter une explication physique. Dans un premier temps le croisement des données cartographiques avec des données environnementales révèle la synchronisation des déplacements de la flèche avec d'une part l'Oscillation Nord Atlantique (NAO), et, d'autre part, les structuations décennales à multidécennales de la vitesse de l'élévation du niveau de l'Atlantique Nord-est. Les processus sous-jacents à cette synchronisation sont alors détaillés avec un modèle numérique de transport sédimentaire. Puis, l'érosion chronique de la flèche entre 1986 et 2016, ainsi que les mécanismes d'évolution de la plage océanique de la Pointe du Cap Ferret sont décrits et quantifiés à l'aide de données topographiques. A l'échelle locale, ces résultats apportent des preuves tangibles du rôle du climat dans l'érosion actuelle de la Pointe du Cap Ferret. D'un point de vue plus général, ces travaux contribuent à la meilleure description des processus contrôlant l'évolution des systèmes de barrières holocènes, dans le contexte actuel d'accélération de l'élévation du niveau de la mer. / Low rates of global sea level rise have allowed the Cap Ferret coastal barrier-spit to develop since about 3 000 years ago. Over the last 250 years, navigation charts attest of a significant instability of the distal end of the spit, to which the present study aims to provide a physical explanation. First, the crossing of cartographic data with meteoceanic data reveals a strong relationship of the spit-end behaviour with, on the one hand, the North Atlantic Oscillation (NAO), and, on the other hand, decadal to multidecadal variations in the rate of sea level rise in the Northeast Atlantic. Underlying processes were then investigated using a numerical model for sediment transport. Finally, the chronic erosion of the spit between 1986 and 2016, as well as the evolution mechanisms of the oceanic beach of the spit-end are described and quantified by means of topographic data. Locally, these results support the role of climate in the ongoing erosion of the spit-end. From a wider perspective, this study brings new insigths on the processes controling the evolution of Holocene barrier systems, in the present context of an accelerating sea level rise.

La connaissance de la climatologie des états de mer est primordiale pour le dimensionnement de structures marines, la gestion des zones côtières ou encore la récupération de l’énergie des vagues. L'estimation de la climatologie nécessite de disposer de données d'observation sur une longue durée, ce qui n'est pas le cas de l'Afrique de l'Ouest. Pour dépasser les limites en durée imposées par les observations, nous proposons dans ces travaux une approche stochastique pour estimer une climatologie de vagues en Afrique de l’Ouest, en s’appuyant sur une représentation “par événements” des données d’états de mer. Un “événement” désigne un système de vagues (houle ou mer du vent) en évolution au cours du temps, observable pendant une durée significative et que l’on peut relier à un unique phénomène météorologique source (e.g. dépressions, tempêtes, etc.). La représentation par événements permet de reproduire la cohérence temporelle des systèmes de vagues et de structurer les données d'états de mer avec une base physique. La démarche adoptée peut se décomposer suivant trois étapes. Nous avons d'abord extrait les événements à partir d’une série temporelle de spectres directionnels d’états de mer. Nous avons ensuite développé un modèle pour représenter chacun des événements par un nombre réduit de paramètres. Enfin, nous avons construit un générateur stochastique permettant la simulation d’événements individuels et la reconstitution de climatologies sur des durées de longueurs arbitraires. Les résultats ont montré un bon accord entre la climatologie reconstituée et celle de référence, permettant de conclure que le générateur peut valablement servir à la simulation de données d’états de mer en Afrique de l’Ouest pour les applications en génie océanique. / Accurate estimation of long-term sea conditions is a major issue in design of coastal and offshore structures, coastal zone management or wave energy harvesting. An estimation of long-term sea conditions requires long duration observational data while in West Africa, only a few (3 years) years of observational data are available. To overcome the limits in duration that observations impose, a stochastic approach, event-based representation of sea state data, is proposed to model the wave climate in West Africa. An “event” refers to a wave system (swell or wind sea) evolving over time, that can be observed for a finite, yet significant duration and that can be linked to a single meteorological source phenomenon (e.g. low pressure systems, storms, etc.). Event-based approach provides structures with physical meaning and temporal consistence for the representation of sea states data. The procedure we have used is decomposed into three following steps. First, we have extracted events from a time series of directional spectra. We have then developed a model to represent each event by a reduced number of parameters. In the last step, we have constructed the stochastic events generator which allows for simulation of individual events and for reconstruction of wave climate over durations of arbitrary lengths. Results showed good agreement between reconstructed climate and that of reference and allow to conclude that the stochastic events generator can reliably be used to simulate sea state data in West Africa for a ocean engineering applications.

Ocean wind waves represent the atmosphere-ocean boundary, playing a central role in the air-sea exchanging processes. Heat, mass and momentum are transferred across this boundary, with waves mediating the exchange of principally the momentum between the winds and the ocean surface. During the generation process waves are called wind sea. When they leave their generation area or outrun their generating wind they are called swell. The wave field can be said to be dominated either by wind sea or swell. Depending on the wave regime the momentum and energy exchanging processes and the degree of coupling between the waves and the wind is different. During the growing process, waves act as a drag on the surface wind and the momentum flux is directed downward. When swell dominates the wave field a reverse momentum flux mechanism occurs triggered by swell waves traveling considerably faster than the surface winds. The momentum transfer is now directed from the waves to the atmosphere, and takes place because swell waves perform work on the atmosphere as part of their attenuation process. This upward momentum transfer has an impact on the lower atmosphere dynamics, and on the overall turbulence structure of the boundary layer. A detailed qualitative climatology of the global wind sea and swell fields from wave reanalysis data, is presented, revealing a very strong swell dominance of the World Ocean. The areas of larger potential impact of swell on the atmosphere, from a climatological point of view, are also studied. A model that reproduces the swell impact on the lower atmosphere dynamics, conceptually based on the energy transfer from the waves to the atmosphere, is presented – a  new parameterization for the wave-induced stress is also proposed. The model results are compared with field observations. A modeling simulation, using a coupled wave-atmosphere model system, is used to study the impact of swell in a regional climate model, by using different formulations on how to introduce the wave state effect in the modeling system. / Gränsen mellan hav och atmosfär beskrivs av vågor, dessa spelar en central roll i utbytesprocesser mellan hav och atmosfär. Värme, massa och rörelsemängd överförs vid ytan och utbytet av rörelsemängd mellan vind och havsyta styrs i stor utsträckning av vågorna. Då vågor skapas kallas de för vinddrivna vågor. När vågorna sedan lämnar området där de genererats eller rör sig fortare än den vind som genererat dem kallas de dyning. Ett vågfält kan sägas vara dominerat av antingen vinddrivna vågor eller dyningsvågor. Beroende på vilken vågregim som råder så är kopplingen mellan vågor och vind olika och därmed också utbytesprocesserna för rörelsemängd och energi. Då vågorna genereras fungerar de som en bromsande kraft för vinden och impulsutbytet är nedåtriktat. När dyning dominerar vågfältet inträffar en mekanism för omvänt impulsutbyte som sätts igång av dyningsvågor som färdas avsevärt snabbare än vinden. Rörelsemängd överförs då från vågorna till atmosfären, eftersom dyningsvågorna utför arbete på atmosfären då de dämpas. Den uppåtriktade transporten av rörelsemängd har en stor effekt på dynamiken och turbulensstrukturen i lägre delen av atmosfären. En detaljerad kvalitativ klimatologi av globala vågfält (vinddrivna och dyning) från återanalysdata presenteras och visar att dyning dominerar vågfältet på världshaven. Områden där man kan förvänta sig störst effekt av dyning på atmosfären har identifierats. En konceptuellt baserad modell som reproducerar effekten av dyning på dynamiken i lägre delen av atmosfären presenteras. Modellen styrs av överföring av energi från vågor till atmosfären. I modellen föreslås även en ny parameterisering för våginducerad kraft på havsytan. Modellresultaten är utvärderade mot fältmätningar. En regional klimatmodell, med ett kopplat våg-atmosfärssystem, har använts för att studera den långtida effekten av dyning vid klimatsimulering. Olika formuleringar för beskrivningen av vågornas effekt på atmosfären har använts, beroende på om vinddrivna vågor eller dyning dominerar vågfältet.

Esta tesis presenta el primer estudio científico acerca de la ocurrencia de condiciones favorables para el surf en las escalas global y regional (en este caso en el Mar Cantábrico). Para ello han sido empleadas bases de datos de reanálisis atmosféricos y de oleaje previamente calibrados, los cuales permiten estimar la calidad de las condiciones y la consistencia (días de buenas condiciones de surf) la cual es la principal característica en la disponibilidad de recurso (Lazarow et al., 2007). Los valores medios obtenidos muestran una alta relación con el patrón general de circulación atmosférica y con las características de propagación de los oleajes tipo swell y, por lo tanto, con las variaciones estacionales de los mismos. El estudio de la variabilidad estacional ha sido investigado relacionando la consistencia mensual con diferentes índices climáticos como el SOI (Southern Oscillation Index) o la NAO (North Atlantic Oscillation) entre otros, mostrando valores altos de correlación. El análisis de las tendencias en el largo plazo muestra un incremento generalizado en las costas con orientación oeste (ej. 20 horas/año en California), lo cual coincide con un incremento de la actividad extratropical durante el periodo de tiempo analizado. En la escala regional han sido empleadas técnicas de regionalización para obtener campos de oleaje y viento de alta resolución con el objetivo de mejorar la estima de la calidad de las condiciones de surf. Para ello, han sido calculadas la dispersión frecuencial y direccional del espectro de oleaje mejorando la estima actual de la calidad, la cual es altamente dependiente de los procesos de propagación del oleaje por aguas someras. La variabilidad climática en esta escala ha sido estudiada por medio de técnicas de clasificación de la atmósfera que permiten obtener patrones preferenciales de variabilidad en diferentes escalas temporales: tipos de tiempo (3 días) y patrones climáticos (1 mes). Estas técnicas permiten relacionar unívocamente un estado de la atmosfera con una distribución específica de la energía del oleaje en el dominio de las frecuencias y direcciones. Esta metodología permite además analizar la variabilidad en la forma espectral debida al cambio climático o la variabilidad climática natural. / This thesis presents the firs scientific study of the surf conditions occurrence at a global and a regional scale (herein Cantabrian Sea). Calibrated wave and wind hindcast data bases have used as the ground true estimating surf quality and consistency (days of good surfing conditions) which is the most striking feature in surf resource availability (Lazarow et al., 2007). Mean consistency values are calculated finding spatial patterns highly related with the general circulation scheme and swell traveling properties and thus seasonality. Controls of inter-annual variability are investigated by comparing occurrence values with global and regional climate patterns. Southern Oscillation Index (SOI), North Atlantic Oscillation (NAO) between others, have been related to surf occurrence, showing a great influence at both, global and regional scales. Analysis of long term trends shows an increase in the probability of surfable events over the west facing coasts on the planet (e.g. 20 hours/year in California coasts), according with previous studies which indicate increased extra-tropical storminess during the past few years. Moreover, downscaling techniques have been employed obtaining high resolution wave and wind fields in order to asses surf quality in a regional scale. At this scale, spectral directional and frequency spreading have been also determined improving the current estimation of the surf quality, which is highly related to the wave shallow water processes. Clustering statistics techniques have been applied to sea level pressure over the North Atlantic obtaining leading patterns of weather (3 days) and climate variability (1 month) corresponding to AO (Arctic Oscillation), NAO or EA (East Atlantic Oscillation) atmospheric states. These techniques allow univocal relating some specific state of the atmosphere with one wave energy distribution through frequencies and directions domain, including high frequency energy coming from local winds. In addition the proposed methodology makes possible analyzing spectral variability due to climate change or natural climatic variability.

L'analyse de la climatologie des aléas océano-météorologiques tels que les états de mer est fondamentale pour comprendre l'évolution et la dynamique des zones côtières, estimer les risques naturels survenant lors d'événements de tempête majeurs, définir les moyens optimaux de protection des ports et infrastructures onshore et offshore, caractériser la ressource houlomotrice pour des projets de récupération d'énergie des vagues, comprendre les processus d'érosion et accrétion des plages, etc. Pour répondre à ces problématiques dans un contexte de questionnement croissant sur les conséquences potentielles associées au changement climatique, le travail de thèse s'inscrit dans une démarche double : (i) approfondissement de la connaissance du climat de vagues actuel le long des côtes Atlantique, Manche et Mer du Nord en France d'une part, et (ii) estimation des évolutions futures potentielles de cette climatologie des vagues pour différents scénarios d'évolution climatique. L'estimation de l'impact du changement climatique sur le climat de vague se compose de trois éléments principaux : (i) une connaissance détaillée de la variabilité climatique actuelle des états de mer, (ii) l'utilisation de scénarios de changement climatique à l'horizon 2100 et (iii) la définition d'une méthodologie de descente d'échelle adaptée. Pour appréhender ces sujets, l'Atlas Numérique d'Etats de Mer Océanique et Côtier ANEMOC-2 a été construit à l'aide du modèle spectral de 3ème génération TOMAWAC (Benoit et al., 1996) sur la période 1979-2009 et le climat de vagues futur a été simulé à l'horizon 2100 par des méthodes de descente d'échelle dynamique et statistique en considérant les scénarios de changement climatique du quatrième rapport du GIEC (IPCC, 2007).En particulier, un travail original de comparaison de projections d'états de mer par approche dynamique et par approche statistique des types de temps a été réalisé sur la période 2061-2100 pour les scénarios B1, A1B et A2 simulés par le modèle ARPEGE-CLIMAT de Météo-France (Salas-Mélia, et al. 2005). Les résultats des deux approches (à savoir hauteur significative, période moyenne, direction moyenne et flux d'énergie des vagues) ont été comparés en termes de valeurs moyennes, écarts-types, distributions jointes et variabilités saisonnière et interannuelle. Ce travail a abouti à une estimation de l'impact du changement climatique sur la climatologie des états de mer le long des côtes Atlantique, Manche et Mer du Nord françaises sur la période 2061-2100 en tenant compte des incertitudes intrinsèques aux méthodes de descente d'échelle et aux scénarios de changement climatique. En hiver par exemple, nous observons une augmentation des valeurs moyennes et de la variabilité des paramètres de hauteur significative, période moyenne et flux d'énergie des vagues, notamment en Mer du Nord (pour les scénarios B1, A1B et A2) et dans le Golfe de Gascogne pour le scénario B1. En complément, ces paramètres d'états de mer ont tendance à diminuer dans le Golfe de Gascogne pour les saisons printemps, été et automne. Enfin, les paramètres d'états de mer associés aux hauteurs de vagues du quantile 95 tendent à augmenter sur une large emprise de l'Atlantique nord-est / Wave climate analysis is of utmost importance to understand the evolution and dynamics of coastal zones, to estimate the occurrence of extreme events, to design protections for ports, onshore and offshore infrastructure, to characterize wave resources for wave energy conversion, to quantify sediment erosion and accretion processes, et cetera. Thus, this thesis project aims to improve knowledge of wave climatology in the growing context of climate change prediction with a two-step approach: (i) enhancement of the understanding of the present wave climate along the French coastline facing the Atlantic Ocean, English Channel and North Sea and (ii) estimation of possible future wave climate evolution. For this purpose, the estimation of climate change impacts on the wave climate requires three key parameters: (i) detailed knowledge of current wave climate variability, (ii) the application of climate change scenarios from Global Climate Models and (iii) the definition of an appropriate downscaling method. To answer these questions, ANEMOC-2, a hindcast sea-state data base has been built based on the third-generation spectral wave model TOMAWAC (Benoit et al., 1996) over the period 1979-2009, and the future wave climate has been simulated over the period 2061-2100 by means of dynamical and statistical downscaling methods. In particular, an original approach comparing sea-state projections obtained from dynamical and statistical downscaling methods has been applied over the period 2061-2100 for B1, A1B and A2 scenarios (Forth Assessments Reports, IPCC, 2007), based on the ARPEGE-CLIMAT (Salas-Mélia et al., 2005) model simulations. The wave spectral parameters resulting from the projections (i.e. significant wave height, mean period, mean direction and wave energy flux) have been compared in term of mean, joint distribution and seasonal and interannual variability.The possible climate change impacts on the wave climate along the Atlantic, English Channel and North Sea French coastline have also been evaluated. The analysis provides estimations of the inherent uncertainties of climate change scenarios and downscaling methods. Wave climate evolution trends are presented in terms of the mean, joint distribution, and seasonal and interannual variability of significant wave height, mean period, mean direction and wave energy flux

Les embouchures tidales dominées par la houle sont des systèmes côtiers particulièrement dynamiques dont la morphologie est continuellement remodelée par l’action des vagues et de la marée. Les rapides évolutions morphologiques auxquelles elles sont sujettes impactent directement leurs environnements écologiques et socio-économiques. Afin de mettre en œuvre des réglementations adaptées à la gestion durable des embouchures tidales, des études environnementales systématiques sont nécessaires. L’objectif principal de cette thèse est de mieux comprendre les processus physiques qui contrôlent les évolutions morphologiques d’une embouchure tidale éphémère au Portugal - l’embouchure de la lagune d’Albufeira – à partir de l’analyse de mesures hydrodynamiques et topographiques et de résultats d’un système de modélisation morphodynamique récemment développé. Les processus qui influent sur la dynamique de l’embouchure tidale à court terme, notamment ceux liés aux interactions vague-courant, ont été étudiés à travers l’application du système de modélisation à l’embouchure. Les modulations saisonnières du climat de vagues et du niveau moyen de la mer affectent fortement la dynamique sédimentaire de l’embouchure et contribuent au comblement naturel de l’embouchure pendant l’hiver. Les processus à long terme ont également été étudiés à partir de simulations rétrospectives de paramètres moyens de vagues pour des échelles régionales et locales sur une période 65 ans. Les fortes variabilités interannuelles du climat de vagues et de la dérive littorale qui lui est associée pourraient expliquer les différences d’évolutions morphologiques du système embouchure-lagune sur des échelles de temps pluri–annuels. / Wave-dominated tidal inlets are very dynamic coastal systems, whose morphology is continuously shaped by the combined action of the waves and the tides. The rapid morphological changes they experience impact directly their ecological and socio-economic environments. In order to implement adequate regulations for the sustainable management of tidal inlets, systematic environmental studies are necessary. The main objective of this PhD research work is to gain a better understanding of the physical processes that control the morphological evolutions of an ephemeral tidal inlet in Portugal - the Albufeira Lagoon inlet - based on the analysis of hydrodynamic and topographic data and on the results of a newly developed morphodynamic modelling system. The processes that impact the dynamics of the inlet at short time-scales, particularly those related to wave-current interactions, are investigated through the application of the modelling system to the inlet. The seasonal modulations of the wave climate and mean sea level strongly affect the sediment dynamics of the inlet and contribute to the natural closure of the inlet during the winter period. Long-term processes are also investigated based on a 65-year hindcast of mean wave parameters at regional and local scales. The large inter-annual variability of the wave climate and the associated longshore sediment transport – both correlated to the North-Atlantic Oscillation – are proposed to explain the differences in the morphological behaviour of the inlet-lagoon system at pluri-annual time-scales.

Although the physical characteristics of surfing breaks are well described in the literature, there is little specific research on surfing and coastal management. Such research is required because coastal engineering has had significant impacts to surfing breaks, both positive and negative. Strategic planning and environmental impact assessment methods, a central tenet of integrated coastal zone management (ICZM), are recommended by this thesis to maximise surfing amenities. The research reported here identifies key oceanographic considerations required for ICZM around surfing breaks including: surfing wave parameters; surfing break components; relationship between surfer skill, surfing manoeuvre type and wave parameters; wind effects on waves; currents; geomorphic surfing break categorisation; beach-state and morphology; and offshore wave transformations. Key coastal activities that can have impacts to surfing breaks are identified. Environmental data types to consider during coastal studies around surfing breaks are presented and geographic information systems (GIS) are used to manage and interpret such information. To monitor surfing breaks, a shallow water multibeam echo sounding system was utilised and a RTK GPS water level correction and hydrographic GIS methodology developed. Including surfing in coastal management requires coastal engineering solutions that incorporate surfing. As an example, the efficacy of the artificial surfing reef (ASR) at Mount Maunganui, New Zealand, was evaluated. GIS, multibeam echo soundings, oceanographic measurements, photography, and wave modelling were all applied to monitor sea floor morphology around the reef. Results showed that the beach-state has more cellular circulation since the reef was installed, and a groin effect on the offshore bar was caused by the structure within the monitoring period, trapping sediment updrift and eroding sediment downdrift. No identifiable shoreline salient was observed. Landward of the reef, a scour hole ~3 times the surface area of the reef has formed. The current literature on ASRs has primarily focused on reef shape and its role in creating surfing waves. However, this study suggests that impacts to the offshore bar, beach-state, scour hole and surf zone hydrodynamics should all be included in future surfing reef designs. More real world reef studies, including ongoing monitoring of existing surfing reefs are required to validate theoretical concepts in the published literature.