Thesis (Ph.D.)--University of Arizona, 2007. / Includes bibliographical references (leaves 710-743).

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Over the past thirty years, the study of dress has flourished as a field of interdisciplinary enquiry, emerging from consumer studies by economic historians and artefact-based research. More recent scholarship has addressed clothing in terms of material culture and as a marker of identity, adopting approaches from anthropology, cultural studies, history of art, material culture studies and history. However, despite these advances in understandings of eighteenth-century dress, the social and cultural consequence of many garments has yet to be fully teased out. This thesis aims to amend that oversight and shed light on the significance of underwear and accessories in Britain and, to a lesser extent, colonial America from the period of 1666 to 1819. Five garments, each stemming from a different region of the body, form the chapters of this thesis: banyans, cork rumps, calashes, muffs, and stays. As structural undergarments, accessories and undress, these objects were auxiliary to the main garments of eighteenth-century dress, a man’s three-piece suit and woman’s mantua or polonaise gown. However, they were fashionable necessities, required to give the essential shape to the silhouette, complete an ensemble, or sartorially facilitate the expression of politeness and sociability. This discussion looks beyond these items as articles of fashion to establish their cultural currency through the study, where possible, of surviving material artefacts and their visual and discursive representations in painted portraiture, graphic satire, archival manuscripts, and published newspapers and magazines. Marrying aspects of artefact-based approaches with visual analysis exposes the discourses between the material artefacts and their representational constructions. First, the thesis discusses the banyan’s relation to time, exposing it as an agent of time that thwarted the chrononormative paths of the male sex. Issues of evidence, or the lack thereof, are addressed in Chapter Two, through an examination of the cork rump in satirical prints. The third chapter charts the material, spatial and social mobility of the calash and its wearer. Addressing embroidered and satin print silk muffs, the fourth chapter positions the silk muff as a haptic receptacle of expression, as well as portable canvas of female art and patronage. The final chapter examines the divergent associations of the stay, both as a mediator of gender normativity, and as an iconographic vessel of gender, class and national anxiety. Through the close analysis of these previously overlooked articles of dress, this thesis reveals the charged and weighted associations embedded within and ascribed to underwear and accessories in the long eighteenth century.

Made available in DSpace on 2014-10-09T12:28:30Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 0 / Made available in DSpace on 2014-10-09T13:56:15Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 0 / Na montagem de um farol automobilístico são utilizados diversos materiais, tais como insertos metálicos nas fixações, vidros nas lâmpadas, materiais poliméricos nas lentes, carcaças, molduras, vedações e refletores, além de vernizes, tintas, película de metal para reflexão do feixe luminoso. Há cerca de quatro décadas foi iniciada a confecção dos refletores utilizando o BMC (bulk moulding compound), sigla em inglês para composto para moldagem em forma de massa, que é um compósito polimérico termofixo. Este material apresenta inúmeras vantagens sobre o metal, tal como forma e geometria que podem se integrar facilmente ao desenho do carro, elevada produtividade, baixo custo e da elevada resistência térmica. Contudo, apresentam o inconveniente de não poderem ser reciclados. Uma opção ao BMC tem sido o PEI [poli (éter imida)], que é um material polimérico termoplástico de alto desempenho que apresenta propriedades atrativas para essa utilização. Oferece também elevada produtividade, porém com um custo elevado se comparado ao BMC. Tem a vantagem de pode ser reciclado. De modo a analisar o potencial dos dois materiais e extrair deles suas vantagens competitivas, bem como determinar suas possíveis limitações, o presente trabalho apresenta os resultados de caracterização mecânica, análise térmica, ensaios de impacto, ensaios de temperatura de deflexão térmica (HDT) e reaproveitamento de resíduos de BMC, incorporando-o ao PVC [poli (cloreto de vinila)], resultando uma nova blenda polimérica. O estudo conclui que ambos os materiais podem ser utilizados para fabricação de refletores automobilísticos. No entanto, o preço do PEI é maior que o do BMC, o que desestimula sua utilização em produtos de alta escala de produção, como, por exemplo, o produto do presente trabalho. O BMC por sua vez não pode ser reciclado, exigindo um custo adicional para seu reaproveitamento de maneira a evitar seu descarte em aterro sanitário. / Dissertacao (Mestrado) / IPEN/D / Instituto de Pesquisas Energeticas e Nucleares - IPEN-CNEN/SP

[pt] Este trabalho apresenta resultados da análise de uma empresa brasileira do segmento de acessórios de couro que vem passando por dificuldades nos últimos anos. O estudo de caso explicita a estrutura de mercado do segmento de artefatos de couro, a história da empresa, sua cadeia produtiva, canais de distribuição e recursos internos. A estratégia da empresa é caracterizada por meio da tipologia de Mintzberg (1998) e analisada por meio dos modelos de Porter (1980 e 1985), Austin (1990), Macedo-Soares (2001) e Barney (2002). Os resultados revelaram que o meio ambiente no qual a empresa operava era hostil e que ela não possuía todas as forças necessárias para melhorar seu desempenho. Esta análise permitiu a avaliação do desempenho da empresa e a sugestão de mudanças na estratégia da empresa com o intuito de melhorar seu desempenho. Como existe grande carência de informações sobre o setor, o levantamento de dados apresentado traz lições significativas para os stakeholders envolvidos neste mercado. Embora os resultados não possam ser generalizados para todo o setor, acredita-se que o estudo deste caso, por ser de uma pequena empresa de sucesso passando por dificuldades, poderá trazer lições relevantes para outras empresas. A empresa analisada possuía em torno de 150 funcionários no período analisado, embora no passado a empresa tenha possuído entre 1 e 180. Como a maioria das empresas deste mercado possui menos de 200 funcionários este estudo pode ser de grande valia para empresas do mesmo setor ou para empresas que estejam competindo em indústrias fragmentadas onde nenhuma empresa tem influência sobre mercado. / [en] This work presents the results of an analysis of a Brazilian leather accessories firm that has faced difficulties in the last few years. The case study presents the market structure, the history of the company, its production and distribution chains and internal resources. The company`s strategy is characterized under Mintzberg (1998) typology and analyzed under Porter (1980 and 1985), Austin (1990), Macedo-Soares (2001) and Barney (2002) models. The results show that the environment is hostile and that the enterprise did not have the required strengths to improve its profits. This analysis allowed the evaluation of the performance of the firm and the suggestion of strategy changes that could improve its performance. Since there is hardly any information about the leather accessories sector, the results of this survey may offer insights to all stakeholders in this market. Although they can not be generalized to the whole sector, it is believed that this study, because it is about a small company that has been successful in the past and is presently facing difficulties, can offer useful understandings about the market to other companies. The analyzed company presently has around 150 employees, although in the past it has had between 1 and 180. Because the majority of the companies in this sector have less then 200 employees, this study could be helpful to other companies in the same market and to any fragmented industry company where no firm is able to influence the market.

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by Leung Wing Yiu, Raymond, Wong Shung Yan. / Thesis (M.B.A.)--Chinese University of Hong Kong, 1993. / Includes bibliographical references (leaves 82-84). / ABSTRACT --- p.ii / TABLE OF CONTENTS --- p.iii / ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS --- p.vi / Chapter / Chapter 1. --- INTRODUCTION --- p.1 / Purpose / Definition of Direct Marketing / Direct Marketing Businesses in South East Asia / Singapore / Thailand / Malaysia / Taiwan / Direct Marketing Businesses in Hong Kong / Opportunities and Difficulties of Direct Marketing in Hong Kong / Consumer Attitude Towards Direct Marketing in Hong Kong / Chapter 2 --- METHODOLOGY --- p.15 / Literature Review / Interview with Local Direct Marketing Media and Practitioners / Focus Group Interview / Identification of Opportunities and Difficulties / Feasibility Study / Chapter 3 --- INTERVIEW WITH PRACTITIONERS IN HONG KONG --- p.19 / Interview with Mr. David Kwong of Bank of China Credit Cards / Introduction / Products Offered Through Direct Marketing / Criteria for Good Selling Products / Customer Information Maintenance / Interview with Ms Panky Poon of Chase Credit Card / Products Offered Through Direct Marketing / Criteria for Good Selling Products / Customer Relationship Maintenance / Interview with Mr. Peter Stening of Ball Partnership / Companies Served by Ball in Direct Marketing / Benefits and Difficulties of Using Direct Marketing / Outlook of Direct Marketing / Interview with Mr. Alan Ng of Ogilvy & Mather Direct / Products Offered Through Direct Marketing / Benefits and Difficulties of Using Direct Marketing / Outlook of Direct Marketing / Chapter 4 --- FOCUS GROUP INTERVIEWS --- p.26 / The Questionnaire / The Interview Discussion / Demographics / The Questionnaire Result / The Interview Result / General Attitude / Accessory Products / Direct Marketing of Accessory Products / Direct Marketing of Ties / Chapter 5 --- OPPORTUNITIES AND DIFFICULTIES --- p.41 / Consumer Attitudes / Value of Product / Convenience / Confidence in Marketer and Product / Product Attributes / Product Uniqueness / Product Price / Non-necessities / Added Value / Marketing Attributes / The Customer Database / A Reputable Marketer with Good Quality Product / Pre-examination of Product Before Purchase / Difficulties / Chapter 6 --- MEN'S ACCESSORIES --- p.48 / The Market / The Product / The Supplier / Chapter 7 --- FEASIBILITY STUDY --- p.52 / Factors affecting Direct Marketing of Men's Accessories / Suggested Approach to Direct Marketing / Product / Price / Mode of Distribution / Promotion / Customers Maintenance / Financial Analysis / Marketing Cost / Required Revenue / Shortcomings / Chapter 8 --- CONCLUSION --- p.63 / Direct Marketing in General / Direct Marketing of Men's Accessories / Limitations of the Study / Viewpoints on Direct Marketing of Men's Accessories / Recommendations for Further Studies / APPENDIX / Chapter 1 --- QUESTIONNAIRE --- p.70 / Chapter 2 --- OUTLINE OF FOCUS GROUP DISCUSSION --- p.73 / Chapter 3 --- THE BERTINI PRODUCT CATALOGUES --- p.75 / BIBLIOGRAPHY --- p.82

As peças fundidas sob pressão com Zamac Z5 no formato de peças técnicas com galvanoplastia em Cromo, rejeitadas durante o processo são encaminhadas para beneficiamento, como sucata, na empresa fornecedora de Zamac. No entanto, durante o beneficiamento, somente 35% do material enviado retorna para empresa, assim 65% do peso deste material é perdido. A matéria-prima é um dos principais custos da empresa, apresentando assim uma grande oportunidade de economia no processo de fabricação. O objetivo desse trabalho é verificar a viabilidade de fundição das peças técnicas rejeitadas, como matéria-prima para a fabricação de peças de moda. As sucatas foram analisadas quanto a sua composição química, microestrutura e análise térmica. Com esta sucata foram fundidas sob pressão peças de moda usadas em calçados e acessórios, fivelas e enfeites, com estes foram realizadas análises de microestrutura e ensaios de corrosão, propriedades mecânicas e ainda testes de desempenho pertinentes as suas aplicações. As amostras fundidas com 100% de sucata responderam de forma satisfatória a todos os ensaios, em alguns casos de maneira superior às peças de controle fundidas com matéria-prima virgem. Evidenciou-se que a sucata, oriunda de peças técnicas com galvanoplastia em Cromo, pode ser usada como matéria-prima para confecção de peças de moda, fivelas e enfeites, apresentando assim uma redução de 30% no custo de fabricação das mesmas. / In the production of Zamac Z5 metal parts by ppressure casting, which are normally chrome electroplated, some of those end up being rejected and, as a consequence, returned as scrap to the Zamac supplier companies. However, from the supplier after reprocessing, only 35% of the material returns to be used in the manufacturing. So, 65% of this material weight is lost. The raw material is one of the main costs of the company, presenting a great opportunity for savings in the manufacturing process. The objective of this research is to check the viability of feeding the casting process with rejected parts, reusing them as raw material for fashionable accessories manufacturing. The scraps have been analyzed for verification of the chemical composition, microstructure and submmited to thermal analysis. These scraps were used as basis to die casted parts which were used in the manufacturing process of footwear, accessories, buckles and frills. Microstructure, mechanical testing, relevant performance and corrosion tests were carried out according with the parts applications. The samples manufactured with 100% scrap have had satisfactory results to all the tests, in some cases in a superior manner in comparison to controled parts manufactured with Virgin raw material. There are evidences which prove that the scraps, when coming from technical parts with chrome electroplating, can be used as raw material for production of parts of sets, buckles and frills, showing a 30% reduction in the costs of their manufacturing .

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Internet has over the years developed to a platform where more and more companies and organizations control their businesses. Men are spending considerably more time shopping in general compared to only a decade ago, and the numbers are still increasing. Men are using the internet to buy products more often than women do worldwide. Stereotypes tell us that women like shopping for clothes while men do not. Men in Sweden buy more than women in 14 out of 16 purchasing categories on the inter-net; one of the other two is fairly even. The last category is “clothes and accessories” and even though Sweden is proved to be the least masculine country in a study containing 53 countries in total and are proved to be so called quick-shoppers, men do not shop clothes and accessories to the same extent as women in Sweden. Thus the question we wanted to investigate further was what is important to priori-tize in terms of website design and structure when selling clothes and accessories in Sweden.The purpose of this report derived from the problematization follows: to bring out which factors of a websites’ design and structure that are most important and most correlated with the intention to pur-chase on a website selling clothes and accessories targeting men in Sweden.In order to get an answer to our questions we used a deductive approach where previous studies within the area was carefully looked through and the most important factors for intentions to purchase and usability in other studies were used to see how they were related to the intentions to purchase and which factors that were more important than others. A quantitative approach was applied and a survey was constructed to send out to people in the ages 16-34.The results were unsatisfying in terms of correlations with the intentions to purchase, however indica-tion of importance in the categories “Ease of use”, “Trustworthiness and convenience” and “Presenta-tion of supply” were derived from the analysis.