Thesis (Ph.D.)--University of Alberta, 2010. / A thesis submitted to the Faculty of Graduate Studies and Research in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy, Department of Chemistry. Title from pdf file main screen (viewed on April 10, 2010). Includes bibliographical references.

Atualmente, existem diversos produtos cosméticos de base nanotecnológica disponíveis no mercado nacional, incluindo protetores solares, produtos para a prevenção do envelhecimento cutâneo, ou ainda, produtos que veiculam uma ampla gama de componentes. Em contrapartida ao grande interesse industrial, várias organizações não governamentais têm expressado a sua preocupação acerca das incertezas do impacto dos novos nanomateriais sobre a saúde humana e sobre as possíveis aplicações e implicações sociais dessa nova tecnologia. Além disso, tem sido amplamente questionada a adequação dos atuais sistemas regulatórios governamentais no que diz respeito aos produtos oriundos da nanotecnologia. De fato, mundialmente, não existem requisitos específicos para o registro de produtos cosméticos de base nanotecnológica, sendo a análise realizada, de maneira geral, caso a caso. Dentro desse contexto, esse estudo traçou uma descrição do perfil da produção industrial de produtos cosméticos de base nanotecnológica no Brasil, buscando avaliar a disponibilidade dos mesmos no mercado nacional e a sua segurança de uso com base na análise das matérias primas constituintes dos produtos, determinação do seu diâmetro de partícula e dados disponíveis na literatura. Em uma última etapa, foram propostos alguns parâmetros para a regulação de produtos cosméticos de base nanotecnológica no Brasil, em especial, no que diz respeito à classificação dos produtos e a rotulagem dos mesmos. / There are a number of nanocosmetic products in the domestic market today, including sunblock, products for prevention against skin aging, or even products which circulate in a wide range components. Running counter to major industrial interests, many non-governmental organizations have expressed their concern regarding the uncertainties of the impact new nanomaterials may have on human health as well as the possible applications and social implications that this new technology may bring. Moreover, the adaptation of current governmental regulations has widely come under scrutiny regarding products stemming from nanotechnology. In fact, worldwide, there are no specific requirements to register nanotechological cosmetic products, as each is generally analyzed on a case by case basis. Within this context, this study traced the profile of the industrial production of nanotechnological cosmetic products in Brazil, with the aim of assessing the availability of these products in the domestic market and their safe usage based on the analysis of the raw materials which make up the products, the determining of particle diameter, and the data available in the literature. In the final stage, some parameters for the regulation of nanotechnological cosmetic products in Brazil are proposed, especially as regards the classification and labeling of products.

Atualmente, existem diversos produtos cosméticos de base nanotecnológica disponíveis no mercado nacional, incluindo protetores solares, produtos para a prevenção do envelhecimento cutâneo, ou ainda, produtos que veiculam uma ampla gama de componentes. Em contrapartida ao grande interesse industrial, várias organizações não governamentais têm expressado a sua preocupação acerca das incertezas do impacto dos novos nanomateriais sobre a saúde humana e sobre as possíveis aplicações e implicações sociais dessa nova tecnologia. Além disso, tem sido amplamente questionada a adequação dos atuais sistemas regulatórios governamentais no que diz respeito aos produtos oriundos da nanotecnologia. De fato, mundialmente, não existem requisitos específicos para o registro de produtos cosméticos de base nanotecnológica, sendo a análise realizada, de maneira geral, caso a caso. Dentro desse contexto, esse estudo traçou uma descrição do perfil da produção industrial de produtos cosméticos de base nanotecnológica no Brasil, buscando avaliar a disponibilidade dos mesmos no mercado nacional e a sua segurança de uso com base na análise das matérias primas constituintes dos produtos, determinação do seu diâmetro de partícula e dados disponíveis na literatura. Em uma última etapa, foram propostos alguns parâmetros para a regulação de produtos cosméticos de base nanotecnológica no Brasil, em especial, no que diz respeito à classificação dos produtos e a rotulagem dos mesmos. / There are a number of nanocosmetic products in the domestic market today, including sunblock, products for prevention against skin aging, or even products which circulate in a wide range components. Running counter to major industrial interests, many non-governmental organizations have expressed their concern regarding the uncertainties of the impact new nanomaterials may have on human health as well as the possible applications and social implications that this new technology may bring. Moreover, the adaptation of current governmental regulations has widely come under scrutiny regarding products stemming from nanotechnology. In fact, worldwide, there are no specific requirements to register nanotechological cosmetic products, as each is generally analyzed on a case by case basis. Within this context, this study traced the profile of the industrial production of nanotechnological cosmetic products in Brazil, with the aim of assessing the availability of these products in the domestic market and their safe usage based on the analysis of the raw materials which make up the products, the determining of particle diameter, and the data available in the literature. In the final stage, some parameters for the regulation of nanotechnological cosmetic products in Brazil are proposed, especially as regards the classification and labeling of products.

Atualmente, existem diversos produtos cosméticos de base nanotecnológica disponíveis no mercado nacional, incluindo protetores solares, produtos para a prevenção do envelhecimento cutâneo, ou ainda, produtos que veiculam uma ampla gama de componentes. Em contrapartida ao grande interesse industrial, várias organizações não governamentais têm expressado a sua preocupação acerca das incertezas do impacto dos novos nanomateriais sobre a saúde humana e sobre as possíveis aplicações e implicações sociais dessa nova tecnologia. Além disso, tem sido amplamente questionada a adequação dos atuais sistemas regulatórios governamentais no que diz respeito aos produtos oriundos da nanotecnologia. De fato, mundialmente, não existem requisitos específicos para o registro de produtos cosméticos de base nanotecnológica, sendo a análise realizada, de maneira geral, caso a caso. Dentro desse contexto, esse estudo traçou uma descrição do perfil da produção industrial de produtos cosméticos de base nanotecnológica no Brasil, buscando avaliar a disponibilidade dos mesmos no mercado nacional e a sua segurança de uso com base na análise das matérias primas constituintes dos produtos, determinação do seu diâmetro de partícula e dados disponíveis na literatura. Em uma última etapa, foram propostos alguns parâmetros para a regulação de produtos cosméticos de base nanotecnológica no Brasil, em especial, no que diz respeito à classificação dos produtos e a rotulagem dos mesmos. / There are a number of nanocosmetic products in the domestic market today, including sunblock, products for prevention against skin aging, or even products which circulate in a wide range components. Running counter to major industrial interests, many non-governmental organizations have expressed their concern regarding the uncertainties of the impact new nanomaterials may have on human health as well as the possible applications and social implications that this new technology may bring. Moreover, the adaptation of current governmental regulations has widely come under scrutiny regarding products stemming from nanotechnology. In fact, worldwide, there are no specific requirements to register nanotechological cosmetic products, as each is generally analyzed on a case by case basis. Within this context, this study traced the profile of the industrial production of nanotechnological cosmetic products in Brazil, with the aim of assessing the availability of these products in the domestic market and their safe usage based on the analysis of the raw materials which make up the products, the determining of particle diameter, and the data available in the literature. In the final stage, some parameters for the regulation of nanotechnological cosmetic products in Brazil are proposed, especially as regards the classification and labeling of products.

Com o crescente aumento do mercado cosmético e com o consequente aumento da exposição da população às diversas moléculas que os compõem, se faz fundamental os cuidados no desenvolvimento e na avaliação da segurança de produtos cosméticos. Diferentes ferramentas estão disponíveis para compor a estratégia de avaliação de segurança, sendo uma delas a avaliação da retenção e permeação cutânea in vitro, técnica que não apenas fornece dados para a avaliação da eficácia de princípios ativos, como também permite um aprofundamento na avaliação toxicológica dos ingredientes e produtos cosméticos. Assim como cresce o interesse da população por produtos cosméticos, observa-se também um aumento considerável na procura por produtos contendo ingredientes botânicos, o que torna ainda mais desafiadora a avaliação de segurança. Sendo as isoflavonas de soja bastante consumidas na alimentação e, em alguns casos, aplicadas a cosméticos, e tendo elas propriedades dérmicas interessantes, este trabalho teve como objetivo estudar o perfil de retenção e permeação cutânea in vitro da daidzeína, umas das mais importantes isoflavonas já descritas e estudadas. Para tal, desenvolveu-se uma nanoemulsão cosmética e aplicou-se um extrato botânico de soja rico em daidzeína. Desenvolveu-se e validou-se um método analítico por cromatografia líquida acoplada a detector de arranjo de diodos, e ainda procedeu-se a caracterização da nanoemulsão, a avaliação teórica de segurança de todos os seus ingredientes, além dos estudos de retenção e permeação cutânea in vitro, foco central deste trabalho. Como resultados, teve-se que a técnica de emulsificação à quente seguida de sonicação adotada para o preparo da nanoemulsão foi eficiente, possibilitando a obtenção de uma nanoemulsão pouco polidispersa e com tamanho de partícula médio abaixo de 200 nm. A retenção e permeação cutânea foram dependentes do tempo de aplicação, sendo que a nanoemulsão proporcionou uma maior retenção e menor permeação cutâneas da daidzeína comparado com solução controle no tempo de 6 h. A nanoemulsão desenvolvida mostrou-se adequada para a liberação tópica da daidzeína presente em extrato vegetal. Os testes in vitro de retenção e permeação cutânea são cruciais para esta etapa de desenvolvimento das formulações, quando os aspectos liberação tópica e possível toxicidade sistêmica são avaliados. / With the continuous growth of the cosmetic market, and so the increase in the exposure of the population to the different molecules present on these products, the care in the development and the safety assessment of cosmetics plays an important role. Different tools are available to compose the safety assessment strategy, one of which is the dermal absorption in vitro assay. This technique does not only give information regarding the efficacy of active ingredients, but also allow a deep toxicological evaluation of cosmetic ingredients and products. As the interest of the population on cosmetic products grows, also grows people\'s search for products containing botanical ingredients, fact that turns the safety assessment more challenger. As the soy isoflavones are part of the diet and sometimes used in cosmetic products, and as they present interesting dermal properties, this work aimed to study the profile of skin retention and dermal absorption of the daidzein, one of the most important isoflavones ever described and studied. For that, a cosmetic nanoemulsion was developed, in which a soy botanical extract rich in daidzein was added. An analytical method was developed and validated, based in liquid chromatography coupled with a diode array detector. Besides the in vitro studies of skin retention and dermal absorption, main focus of this project, the characterization of the nanoemulsion and the theoretical safety assessment of all of its ingredients were also performed. Regarding the results, the technique of hot emulsification followed by sonication used for the preparation of the nanoemulsion could be considered efficient based on the fact that it was less polidisperse and with a medium particle size below 200 nm. The skin retention and permeation were dependent on the time of application, and, it was observed that the nanoemulsion has led to greater retention and lesser skin permeation of daidzein incorporated into the nanoemulsion when compared to the control solution after 6 h of application. The nanoemulsion developed showed to be adequate to topical delivery of daidzein that is present in plant extract. In vitro skin retention and skin permeation are critical for this stage of development of the formulations, considering that aspects of topical delivery and systemic toxicity are evaluated.

The aim of this diploma thesis was to prove the antimicrobial actvivity of the selected syntetic preservatives used in cosmetics, such as methylparaben, butylparaben, phenoxyethanol, bronopol, imidazolidinyl urea and methylisothaizolinone, in different concentrations (up to the highest permitted concentration and in increased concentrations), and of some essential oils, which are possible to use in cosmetics (essential oil from Eucalyptus globulus, Pimpinella anisum, Lavandula officinalis, Rosmarinus officinalis, Foeniculum vulgare, Mentha piperita, Juniperus communis and Pinus sylvestris). The effect was investigated in every preservative system alone, in order to evaluate the spectrum and the rate of each one. As indicator microorganism was chosen Bacillus subtilis and Penicillium chrysogenum. The used methods was disk difusion method and modify difusion method. From synthetic preservatives had the best effects bronopol, imidazolidinyl urea and methylisothiazolinone. From chosen natural antimicrobails had the effect against both indicator microorganisms the Mentha piperita, Foeniculum vulgare and Juniperus communis extracts.

No description available.

Thesis (MBA)--Stellenbosch University, 2006. / Although most businesses require accurate sales forecasts in order to survive and to be successful, very little attention has been devoted to examine how sales forecasting processes should be managed, and the behavioural factors associated with the management of forecasting. Sales forecasting activities and research have by and large concentrated on the techniques or on the systems used, rather than on the forecasting management philosophy, which considers the organisational, procedural, and personnel aspects of the process. Both forecasting modelling and IT systems form the basis for the forecasting process, but the third element, namely the organisation, is potentially the most important one. Researchers have argued that improvements in this area could have a greater impact on the level of forecasting accuracy than improvements with regard to other aspects. After developing predetermined forecasting standards and principles, an audit on the author's organisation was conducted. This revealed that no formal forecasting --- existed, and that a number of business practices were in effect contaminating procedures and possibly affecting the integrity of the data. Very little forecasting knowledge existed, sales were predicted very sporadically, and simple averaging techniques were adopted. Life cycles of products, trends, seasonality or any other cyclical activity were never modelled. This obviously resulted in a very poor level of forecast accuracy, affecting a number of business activities. A decision was made to research the topic of forecasting management, develop a best practice model, and apply it to the organisation. The best practice model was based predominantly on the research work of Armstrong and Mentzer. This model requires the forecasting process to be developed in two specific phases, namely a strategic phase, in which the forecast is aligned to the organisation, the internal processes and the people, and the operational phase, in which more tangible aspects of the forecasting process are identified and constructed. This new forecasting approach and a dedicated forecasting software programme were successfully implemented, improving the overall accuracy level of the forecast.

Protection against the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation is of increasing importance due to the depletion of stratospheric ozone, which shields the earth from harmful UVC rays (in the range 200-280 nm) and some UVB rays (in the range 280-290 nm). In addition, as the skin is repeatedly exposed to solar radiation, the possibility exists that the incidence of skin cancer is enhanced. This has led to the increased use of commercial sunscreens, which apart from their benefits, also have undesirable effects such as photodegradation and skin penetration. We therefore studied the photodegradation of two sunscreen absorbers that are used in most sunscreen formulations. The combination of the UVB filter, 2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate (EHMC), and the UVA filter, avobenzone (AVO), are commonly used in sunscreen products. These two filters are known to exhibit differing photostabilities in different media. The aim of this project was to investigate their photochemical behaviour in a polar and a non-polar solvent and to identify the UV-induced breakdown products. Methanol was chosen as the polar medium and cyclohexane as the non-polar medium. The sunscreen filters were irradiated either singly or in combination in the two solvents with wavelengths greater than 300 nm. The irradiated samples were analysed by UV-spectrophotometry, high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) and gas chromatography (GC). The effects of direct irradiation with UVB and UVA light, quenchers and photosensitisers were also examined. EHMC is supplied commercially as the trans-isomer and upon irradiation photoisomerises, in both methanol and cyclohexane, to its cis-isomer. AVO is photostable in methanol but photodegrades in cyclohexane. This behaviour is also evident when mixtures of the two filters are irradiated. The loss in absorbance of both EHMC and AVO was monitored by UV-spectrophotometric analysis. Since EHMC does not absorb UV light at the wavelength of maximum absorbance of AVO, a method to quantify the amount of EHMC and AVO present in the mixture was devised. In order to identify the degradation products, HPLC and GC techniques were implemented. The photoproducts formed in the polar methanolic medium were separated and quantified by HPLC analysis. Gas chromatography with flame ionisation detection (GC-FID) was used to separate the photoproducts formed in the non-polar cyclohexane medium. Gas chromatography with mass-spectral detection (GC-MS) was used to identify the photoproducts formed upon irradiation of AVO and to show that UVA irradiation of AVO photosensitises the isomerisation of EHMC. The rate of a photochemical reaction depends upon a number of factors including the number of photons absorbed by sunscreen absorbers. Chemical actinometry was used to determine the number of photons absorbed by EHMC, AVO and the mixture of the two in methanol and cyclohexane. The number of photons absorbed by AVO in cyclohexane was used to determine the quantum yield for the photodegradation of AVO. We also determined the rate constants for EHMC photoisomerisation and AVO photodegradation. Finally, we investigated the effect of sunlight on commercial sunscreens containing EHMC and AVO. / Thesis (M.Sc.)-University of Natal, Durban, 2002.

This thesis is based on my Make-Up Photography Project inspired by the interview of Thai sex workers about their dreams. Each woman’s dream was interpreted and translated into make up design before painted on the models, five Scripps college students, who happened to share similar passion and personality. All models were photographed individually in a regular portraiture style with their make up. The images were then edited in Adobe Photoshop and Illustrator, which incorporated the interview Thai Sex worker’s translated interview and the model’s response to the collaboration together in five complete 32.75 by 22 inches photographs.