This thesis is focused on potentially allergenic substances (PASs) in cosmetics. Their specific features, methods of control and observation are described. There are also mentioned dermatology problems connected with usage of perfumed cosmetic products in which the allergenic ingredients can be found and possibilities of their regulation. Fragrances are mixtures of natural or synthetic character which give the aroma. In nature, fragrances are produced mainly by plants. More than one hundred fragrances have been identified as allergens. Twenty six of them were declared as PASs. Allergenic components of perfume compositions are the main cause of allergic contact dermatitis. Experimental part of the thesis is focused on the procedure of analysis of specific allergenic fragrances (?-Amylcinnamaldehyde, Anisealcohol, Benzylsalicylate, Cinnamaldehyde, ?-Hexylcinnamaldehyde, 7-Hydroxycitronellal and Methyl-2-octynoate). Headspace-Solid Phase Microextraction connected with Gas Chromatography-Flame Ionisation Detector (HS-SPME-GC-FID) was used for extraction, analysis and identification of these substances. The method was validated and applied on the spectrum of real samples of cosmetic products.

Presented diploma thesis is focused on testing of an appropriate form of encapsulated enzymes intended for application in cosmetic and pharmaceutical industry. For encapsulation, proteolytic enzymes bromelain, papain and collagenase were used. These enzymes were encapsulated into alginate and chitosan microparticles prepared by an encapsulator and packed into liposomes. Encapsulation effectiveness was evaluated by analysis of total proteins. Particles stability was evaluated in model and real conditions by photometrical analysis of released proteins. Proteolytic activity of released enzymes in model and real conditions were observed too. Alginate and chitosan microparticles prepared by the encapsulator were found as an appropriate form of encapsulated enzymes designed to wound healing. Encapsulation effectiveness of these particles and stability in model conditions were good in comparison with liposomes. Hydrogel and water-oil emulsion were used for analysis of particles stability at real conditions. Hydrogel was found as a good option for preservation of particles as well as proteolytic enzyme activity. Emulsion made particles less stable and proteolytic activity of enzymes decreased rapidly. Encapsulation enables long-term stabilization of biologically active compounds as well as possibility of targeted transport and controlled releasing. Presented diploma thesis suggests possibilities of application encapsulated enzymes in designing more effective formulations for wound healing.

This diploma thesis is focused on the problematic of assessment of allergenic aroma compounds in various matrices. In the frame of European legislation 26 of potentially allergenic compounds are stated, whose content in cosmetic products is limited. In the case of foods there is not such restriction so far. In the experimental part, the allergenic aroma compounds in chosen samples of cosmetic and food samples were identified and quantified using Solid phase microextraction in conjunction with gas chromatography. Sensory evaluation of aroma or taste is also included.

Fast-moving consumer goods (FMCG) companies are being an innovative way to develop successful products in the market. This project focuses on the development of a salicylic acid cleanser using the development procedure implemented by a FMCG company, Vivere. Insights into cosmetology, material types, emulsion concepts, key parameters and important steps in the development of a cosmetic product are described in the report.  Such fabricated product did undergo different tests to assure the quality and stability of the product during long period of times, showing great stability, especially in good storage conditions for more than 120 days.  Furthermore, a scale-up test was made using two different homogenisers machines, JF-A 4000 and PMC-3000. The results were astounding, JF-A 4000 product samples showed great results with similar behaviour and quality to the laboratory sample, meanwhile, PMC-300 product samples showed a 3,04-fold higher viscosity than the laboratory sample and showed low homogenisation. Therefore, only JF-A 4000 homogeniser will be used for the future productions of the material.  Finally, an economic analysis was executed, concluding that the estimated number of units that should be sold before the project becomes profitable is 2190 units.

In recent years, femvertising has become a new issue of interest for companies, specifically in areas targeting women. Indeed, some companies in the cosmetics industry, such as Dove - a pioneer in the field - have been addressing the representation of women in advertising by tackling issues of equality, inclusiveness, and self-acceptance. Defined as female empowerment advertising, femvertising remains an issue that has been little studied in the literature. While some studies conclude that such a strategy is effective on the corporate side, we want to study this issue from a consumer perspective. Since this new marketing strategy is part of the 4th wave of feminism – which stands out from the other waves with a strong online orientation – the prism of social media constitutes the field of study of this thesis, and more specifically Instagram, a social network where the image concern rules. Generation Y, considered as digital natives, being particularly present on these social networks and relatively aware of global issues, we thus focus our research on these people aged between 21 and 41 years old. In order to shed light on this recent topic, we aim to investigate the attitude of Generation Y toward femvertising in the cosmetics industry. Through this thesis, we try to develop a deeper understanding of if and how the feminist stance of cosmetic brands in their online marketing affects the behaviour of consumers from Generation Y. Besides, this study intends to investigate if, among millennials, there are differences in perception and attitudes towards femvertising according to the cause commitment and activist knowledge of consumers. For this purpose, we developed three research questions that allowed us to study this attitude from exposure to this specific type of advertising, to catch millennials'perception and the way this type of ad affects them, up to their purchase intention. To gather the necessary insights for this research project, a qualitative study through semi-structured interviews among twelve millennials sensitive to cosmetics and/or the feminist movement were conducted, supported by five selected cases of femvertising displayed by cosmetics brands on social media. The findings of this study revealed three key insights regarding Generation Y attitudes towards femvertising. First, these new representations are perceived rather positively among millennials since it breaks codes, stereotypes, and offers more inclusive representations as requested by these consumers. Secondly, Generation Y consumers being rather committed to social causes, they raise their skepticism, are rather cautious about the honesty of this approach, or even react unfavorably to femvertising. Despite this, this marketing strategy using feminist speech and values that are dear to millennials make them hold a positive purchase intention towards cosmetic brands using these claims. This has obvious practical implications for brands to consider. More generally, this bridged some of the identified gaps in the literature and raise important questions for societal and ethical considerations.

Background: Today as awareness about sustainable development increases, more attention is drawn towards sustainability strategies of the companies. However, prior research has not investigated the formulation and implementation of sustainability strategies within companies of different size and scope as existing studies are skewed towards the perspectives of large firms even though SMEs mark up more than 90% of the market.  Purpose: The main objective of this study is to gain an in-depth understanding of sustainability strategy formulation and implementation within the cosmetics industry from the perspectives of both MNCs and SMEs.   Method: To fulfil the purpose of the study, exploratory qualitative research is performed, using a multiple-case study design where several cases are selected to develop a more in-depth understanding of the research topic.  Conclusion: Based on the collected data, it can be concluded that sustainability strategies are initially driven by an environmentally conscious founder who has translated personal beliefs into the organizational culture. Furthermore, the analysis results show the relationship between the driver of sustainability with formulation and implementation mechanisms applied within the company.

Sammanfattning: This study aims to examine how cosmetic products recyclingand markings look like in Sweden. Thestudy used two methods where the first one was a visualresearch done through an externalmonitoring of ten different nail polishes where recyclingmarkings and other markings have been infocus. Then, five products that have similar properties(content, recycling, marking) as nail polishhave been analyzed to compare with the polish. Thesecond part of the method consists of aquantitative web survey to find out what nail polishconsumers' consumption looks like, how muchthey know about recycling and markings on nail polish,and how they think a nail polish bottle affectsthe environment.Results and analysis show that cosmetics/nail polishconsumers don't know much about nail polishmarkings. They know that nail polish is bad for theenvironment, but not why it is bad. This thereforeshows that the visual communication on the nail polishbottle is not sufficient and needs to be betterthrough design. It requires a circular design thatmakes conscious decisions early in the process toprevent the release of hazardous chemicals, miscommunicationregarding the recycling of packagingand clearer markings on the nail polish bottle.This study is based on the UN's global goals: 12-Responsible Consumption and Production, morespecifically 12.4- Responsible Management of Chemicalsand Waste and 13- Climate Action (UNglobal goals, 2020).

El presente trabajo analiza la influencia de las estrategias del marketing experiencial en la satisfacción de las mujeres millennials que acuden a tiendas retail de belleza en Lima Metropolitana. El objetivo del paper es analizar a través de que variables el marketing experiencial se evidencia en el punto de venta. Asimismo, evaluar cómo se encuentra la categoría dentro del mercado y analizar el target al que va dirigida la investigación. En cuanto a los resultados, se observa que las importaciones de maquillaje en el 2018 tuvieron un alza del 4% con respecto al año anterior. Existen tres formas de crear experiencias: a través del producto, mediante puntos de venta y por medio del uso del producto/servicio. En la actualidad, marcas como NYX, Urban Decay, MAC ya emplean estrategias de marketing experiencial en sus tiendas retail para ser más atractivos para las consumidoras. Con estos resultados, se ofrecen aportes considerables para las empresas que están dentro de este rubro brindando información relevante a considerar. Sin embargo, aún falta incorporar la investigación a profundidad de estas acciones con el target. / This work analyzes the influence of experiential marketing strategies on the satisfaction of millennial women who go to beauty retail stores in Metropolitan Lima. The main objective of the paper is to analyze through which variables experiential marketing is evident at the point of sale. Also, evaluate how the category is developing in the market and analyze the target for which the research is aimed. As for the the results, it is observed that makeup imports in 2018 had an increase of 4%, compared to the previous year. Likewise there are three ways to create experiences: through the product, through points of sale and through the use of the product / service. Nowadays brands like NYX, Urban Decay, and MAC already use experiential marketing strategies in their retail stores in order to be more attractive to consumers. With these results, substantial contributions are offered for the companies that fall within this category, providing relevant information to consider. However, there is still a need to incorporate in-depth research of these actions with the target. / Trabajo de investigación

No description available.

[pt] A estearamidopropil dimetilamina (SAPDMA) é um surfactante presente em diversos cosméticos do mercado, principalmente em condicionadores e máscaras capilares. Devido ao seu caráter pseudo-catiônico, essa amidoamina alquílica neutraliza as cargas negativas presentes no cabelo, diminuindo o frizz e deixando-os macios e fáceis de pentear. Além disso, essa molécula é uma ótima substituta aos catiônicos tradicionais, por apresentar menor toxicidade aquática e maior biodegradabilidade. Porém, a SAPDMA é uma molécula não-iônica e insolúvel em água pura, tornando-se positivamente carregada apenas quando em menores valores de pH. Atualmente, sabe-se que diferentes ácidos podem originar formulações com diferentes propriedades físico-químicas, porém este fenômeno ainda não é totalmente compreendido. Este trabalho visa avaliar sistemas com 8 ácidos diferentes, e compreender como essa escolha tem impacto nas estruturas coloidais formadas pelo surfactante. Além disso, também tem como objetivo entender como a presença de álcool graxo influencia na formação da fase líquido-cristalina lamelar, alterando as propriedades finais desses diferentes sistemas. As técnicas de caracterização adotadas neste estudo foram a microscopia óptica convencional e de polarização, o espalhamento de luz dinâmico (DLS), o espalhamento de raios X a baixos ângulos (SAXS) e a reologia. Os resultados mostram o impacto da escolha dos ácidos nas estruturas coloidais, implicando diferenças que não dependem exclusivamente da variação de pH, mas também das diferentes interações entre a SAPDMA e os ânions envolvidos. A tendência do sistema é formar a fase líquido-cristalina lamelar, mas dependendo do ácido utilizado, as lamelas podem apresentar diferentes morfologias, com alterações em sua curvatura. Dessa forma, a escolha do ácido pode impactar na formação, ou não, de vesículas, além de ter enorme papel na estabilidade dos sistemas e nas propriedades sensoriais dos produtos, as quais são fundamentais para atender as necessidades dos consumidores. Sabe-se que, por um lado, as bicamadas fornecem maior viscosidade para o sistema do que as vesículas, sendo essa uma propriedade de enorme importância para aplicação em cosméticos. Porém, por outro lado, as bicamadas mais maleáveis, as quais podem se fechar mais facilmente formando as vesículas, são uma melhor opção em sistemas de emulsões, já que conseguem estabilizar melhor as gotas de óleo dispersas. Este estudo mostra a importância de se compreender melhor esses sistemas e o impacto do ácido utilizado, para que melhores formulações possam ser elaboradas pelas indústrias de cosméticos, que já fazem uso desse surfactante em diversos produtos consumidos pela sociedade. Segundo o nosso colaborador direto, Dr. Heitor de Oliveira (Coty Inc., Darmstadt/Alemanha), este estudo foi fundamental para que o grupo de P(e)D o qual ele gerencia pudesse otimizar e gerar redução de custos em um grupo de fórmulas de condicionadores capilares, considerados como best seller entre as marcas Clairol NNE e Wella Koleston, ambas pertencentes ao grupo Coty Inc.. As respectivas fórmulas já se encontram em fase de teste final para produção. / [en] Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine (SAPDMA) is a surfactant and it has been widely used in the cosmetics industries, particularly in hair conditioners and masks. Because of its pseudo-cationic nature, this alkyl amidoamine neutralizes the negative charges of hair strands, decreasing frizz, providing greater softness and combing force reduction. Besides that, alkyl amidoamines are excellent substitutes for traditional cationic surfactants, because they present less toxicity and improved biodegradability. However, SAPDMA is insoluble in water, as it behaves as a non-ionic molecule. At low pH values, SAPDMA becomes positively charged and, consequently, soluble in water. Currently, it is known that different acids can induce different colloid structures in formulations containing SAPDMA, which have particular physico-chemical properties. From the best of our knowledge, this phenomenon it not completely understood yet. This study intends to understand how 8 different acids can impact on colloidal structures formed by SAPDMA. In addition, we also aim to understand how fatty alcohols change the final properties of these different systems. The techniques employed to characterize all systems were conventional and polarized optical microscopy, dynamic light scattering (DLS), small angle X ray scattering (SAXS) and rheology. The results revealed that the chosen acids impact differently on the colloidal structures and that the observed differences are not limited only to pH variations, but also to different interactions between SAPDMA and the anions involved, the respective conjugated bases. The systems tendency is to form lamellar liquid-crystalline phase, but depending on the chosen acid, bilayers may have different morphologies, with changes in its curvature. So, the acid choice can impact on the formation, or not, of vesicles, besides it has a huge role in systems stability as well as the sensorial properties of the products, which are key to address the consumer needs that we aim to comply with. On one hand, bilayers can provide increased viscosity that is a property of enormous importance for application in cosmetics. On the other hand, malleable bilayers can easily close and form vesicles, which are better choice for emulsion systems, since they can easier stabilize dispersed oil droplets. This study shows the importance of better understanding systems containing SAPDMA and the impact that different acids have on them. Hence, better formulations could be developed by cosmetic industries, which already use this pseudo-cationic surfactant in several products consumed by society. Accordingly to our direct collaborator Dr. Heitor de Oliveira (Coty Inc., Darmstadt/Germany), this study was essential for the R(and)D group which he manages in order to optimize and generate cost reduction in a group of conditioner formulas considered as best seller within the brands Clairol NNE as well as Wella Koleston, both from Coty Inc.. The respective formulas are already in the final teste phase for production.