In fashion design, the designer strives for the development of ideas in view of significant visual goals. The process of specifying and developing ideas is a highly visual process. Based on what has been ‘seen’ as for example in a reference material or in explorations, designers define possible tracks to follow, decide which ideas to deepen or which ones to reject. Their activities can thus be described as a process of seeing. There is nothing novel about the importance of seeing as an act in the design process; on the contrary, seeing, is usually an intuitive act that any designer explicates throughout the process of shaping his/her vision. However, the systematisation of seeing in the design process in order to advance ways of working in the field of fashion design is still very much an area that is open for further research. In this thesis, possible ways of seeing are explored through experiments in different stages of the design process. Based on an image serving as a point of departure, seen elements were derived and put in relation to a body in a two-dimensional photographic sketching stage, in accordance with different ideas of dress. Selected ideas were then further elaborated and explored in terms of their design possibilities. The results of the experiments are propositions of design ideas that have been ‘seen’ in a single sketch or a series of sketches. The contribution of this licentiate thesis are: 1) A thorough mapping of two design stages (point of departure and two-dimensional sketching stage), and how they provide a deeper understanding of the design process, leading to 2) an improved sensibility with regard to design possibilities, their value and developments, and finally 3) the establishing of a methodology with which to discern the composition of a visual language/vision in fashion design based on ‘seeing’. The act of seeing is presented as the fundamental tool of designing for shaping a vision. By delving into the systematisation of the notion of seeing in a fashion design process, a methodology of seeing is introduced, which aims to enhance the possible ways of visualisation when designing.

This project explores the features of a dress through two-dimensional imagery. It uses trompe l’oeil techniques to investigate and highlight the qualities of the garment. This proposes new ways to use trompe l’oeil designs and new ways to draw inspiration from an existing garment. The dress has been studied visually; through looking at it, tracing its shape and through drawing and painting it. The shape of the dress has been studied and developed through pattern construction. The design elements found in the dress have been expressed and enhanced into new designs. Embellishments and prints are used, to create a refined expression. The project has resulted in a seven outfit collection, where each outfit expresses one or two design element(s) from the inspirational dress. The collection shows a way to use decorative techniques to express findings in an artistic garment investigation. It also shows a way to draw inspiration from an existing garment to create an independent new design.

Every weekend in the Society for Creative Anachronism, people from the far reaches of the globe leave behind the structures of their everyday lives, dress themselves in clothing from the Middle Ages, and construct medieval personae. Within a pastiche of fantastical and historical influences, participants create the “Middle Ages as they should have been,” a liminal space where they experience a temporary communitas. Through their participation in informal rituals and formal ceremonies, they celebrate each other’s successes and create a community—a utopia—in which courtesy and honor are the shared core values. In addition, through their performances, people access their creative potential and explore issues of identity. When the weekend is over, the participants return to their modern lives, and—for many—a residue of their temporary creative adaptation persists and contributes to a transformation of their person. Using my insight as a participant observer, this dissertation focuses on some of the elements that contribute to the process of community creation and personal transformation.

Made available in DSpace on 2015-08-20T17:09:30Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 0 Previous issue date: 2014-09-08. Added 1 bitstream(s) on 2015-08-20T17:27:04Z : No. of bitstreams: 1 000837851.pdf: 2417499 bytes, checksum: 34c9cfc0c1a3d5f8283fcdaa7b6cf49a (MD5) / Fundação de Amparo à Ciência e Tecnologia do Estado de Pernambuco (FACEPE) / A concepção e disponibilização de artefatos com propriedades ou atributos ergonômicos incorporados, como vestimentas de proteção, a partir dos princípios do ergodesign podem servir como instrumento para aumento de produtividade, redução dos incidentes e acidentes de trabalho e melhoria da qualidade de vida dos trabalhadores envolvido na atividade. Esta investigação de tese é pautada nos princípios do Ergonomia e Design, com vistas a colaborar para o acesso e disseminação das variáveis concernentes a um confortável vestuário laboral para profissionais do setor de petróleo e gás brasileiro. Interfaces vestíveis desenvolvidas sem o atendimento aos requisitos de usabilidade levam a um desempenho deficiente, além de uma redução da qualidade da interação sujeito e vestimenta. De forma que, para condução da investigação da tese, estruturou-se a pesquisa dividida em quatro fases: um levantamento bibliográfico, que apontou a fragilidade e pouca produção tipicamente nacional sobre o assunto; uma análise documental, que reuniu a legislação e normas brasileiras vigentes identificando certa omissão ao apresentar lacunas na efetiva prevenção de incidentes e acidentes no âmbito laboral; uma avaliação heurística, apontando fragilidades na usabilidade do sistema nacional de gerenciamento de Equipamentos de Proteção Individual - EPI; e uma consulta a stakeholders, que analisou o discurso das instituições e os agentes responsáveis pela regulação dos vestuários de proteção, alvo desta investigação e apontou certas incongruências / The design and deployment of artifacts with incorporated ergonomic properties or atributes, such as protective clothing, from ergodesign principles can serve as a tool to increase productivity, reduce incidents and accidents and improving the quality of life of workers involved in activity. This thesis is based on the principles of Ergonomics and Design, with a view to contributing to the access and dissemination of variables concering a comfortable work clothing for professionals in the oil and gas Brazilian. Wearable interfaces developed without attention to usability requirements lead to poor performance, and a reduction in the quality of the interaction between the subjects and their clothing. Therefore, that, for conducting this research thesis was structured four phases: a literature review, which showed the fragility and low domestic production on the theme. Documentary analysis, which brought together the current legislation and Brazilian standards indentifying certain omission when presented the gaps in effective prevention of incidents and accidents in the workplace. A heuristic evaluation, pointing out weaknesses in the usability of the National System of Management Personal Protective Equipment - PPE and a consultation of stakeholders, when analysis the speech of the institutions and agents responsible for regulating the protective clothing, target of this investigation, and pointed out certain inconsistencies

abstract: This research examines four stateswomen fashion icons—Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, Diana, Princess of Wales, Michelle Obama, and Catherine, the Duchess of Cambridge—and the way these stateswomen used clothing and personal style to create a public identity. Dress is a powerful tool of personal expression and identity creation and when we look at stateswoman style, we see the ways that dress gives them agency to negotiate the “official” identity that’s being placed on them. Personal style is the way we use personal adornments (clothing, jewelry, cosmetics, etc.) to form messages about who we are, who we dream we could be, and what our personal values are. It is a system of communication with rhetorical influence on others that, in return, offers a way to embrace, challenge, or subvert societal expectations and cultural norms. The choice to embrace, challenge, or subvert to the expectations is fluid, and the women continuously move back and forth between these states. I argue for the ways the selected women in this analysis make choices and negotiate such expectations on the national stage through their clothing choices. While personal style does not construct our identities on its own, our dress is often the first indicator of our identity and personality. Dress, therefore, becomes one way to express our identity, even in situations where we are otherwise silenced. Stateswomen are “not body as advertisement”—as celebrities are—but “body as a source of agency.” For every woman, stateswomen included, clothing is a rhetorical statement that they make every day. These women exemplify the way choices can be made powerfully—because they are “like us” more than fashion icons. These stateswomen icons show the public evolving negotiations between personal and public style and identity. They demonstrate the ways that clothing choices can be empowering ways to construct identity and use clothing as an identity statement. This is instrumental in helping average women of the public learn how they can use clothing as a rhetorical statement that creates agency and identity. / Dissertation/Thesis / Doctoral Dissertation English 2018

M.Tech. / The aim of my research is to discover how the garments, beadwork and accoutrements worn and used by proponents of the ukuthwasa1 subculture manifest meaning and significance amongst healers and initiates in the White River area, Eastern Mpumalanga. The visual language and style of traditional healers in this region is unique in South Africa, as it is informed by belief systems incorporating primarily the Nguni2 and the Emandzawe3 cultures. Also, they are influenced by the combined garment styles of the Swazi, and to a lesser extent the Shangaan and Tsonga people resident in this area. I suggest, therefore that ukuthwasa style in this region acts as a visual repository of these amalgamated cultures, which I visually substantiate through relevant photographic documentation. This study includes considerations of the way in which ritual objects, shrines and architectural spaces are dressed and decorated. Furthermore I examine how the beadwork and apparel aid in constructing and establishing identity and status within the designated society, and how, over and above the dictates of their tradition, personal preferences and different ways of teaching doctrine allow for individual interpretation. I also examine ways in which dress and beadwork serve as a site of knowledge and healing, and results in a fluidity of artistic expression, which defies categorisation and constantly invigorates the existing culture. Lastly, I consider change through urbanization and its impact on this culture.

Magister Philosophiae - MPhil / The Islamic dress code has been forcibly imposed on the women in Sudan, since 1983, and many feminists researchers have criticized the practices of the veil as a tool to oppress women. This study aimed to explore a group of Sudanese women, currently living in South Africa, experiences and perceptions of the veil, whether the veil is a religious dress code or a tool that has been used to exercise inequality. / South Africa

The study focused on the role of members of the School Management Team (SMT) regarding the manner in which they implement the policy on mandatory school uniform in Swaziland schools. The main question guiding the study was: To what extent is the learners’ right to human dignity protected when teachers enforce the wearing of compulsory school uniforms in Swaziland schools? A qualitative case study approach was employed with empirical data collected using interviews with the SMT members of three schools in the Manzini and Lubombo regions of the Kingdom of Swaziland, as well as an analysis of each of the school official documents. The interviews and the analysis of the documents were aimed at determining the compliance of each school‘s strategy with the Constitution of the Kingdom of Swaziland, and all international conventions regarding the protection of children’s right to human dignity in schools. Data was analysed in accordance with acceptable procedures for processing the qualitative data. The researcher’s conclusion based on the data gathered and from the body of literature consulted, presented evidence that suggests that the rights of learners to human dignity is not well-protected in the three schools that participated in the study. Poor learners continue to suffer the humiliation of being undressed of clothing such as jerseys that they wear to school because it is not the prescribed school uniform and is unacceptable. Some suffer corporal punishment because their parents cannot afford to buy them the full prescribed school uniform. Poverty remains a serious challenge to implementing the mandatory school uniform policy. / Dissertation (MEd)--University of Pretoria, 2014. / tm2015 / Education Management and Policy Studies / MEd / Unrestricted

El proyecto empresarial se denomina VESYKA S.A.C., el cual pertenece al sector servicios de vestimenta para mujeres conformado por un equipo de cinco personas que asumirán la gerencia general, la jefatura de diseño, asistentes comercial, logístico y contable. Cada uno de los integrantes del proyecto posee las competencias y habilidades para desempeñarse en sus respectivas áreas. VESYKA S.A.C. es una tienda online donde se podrá alquilar vestidos de gala a través de una página web disponible para cualquier plataforma como celulares, computadoras, entre otras. Asimismo, el canal de contacto directo con el cliente empleado para este proyecto es la red social Facebook, dado que es la red social más usada del planeta en la actualidad, según NextU. El modelo de negocio está orientado a mujeres pertenecientes al rango de edad encontrado entre los 25 a 55 años, con un estilo de vida moderna y sofisticada y que deseen lucir un vestido exclusivo. A medida que los años transcurren, es creciente la necesidad, de las mujeres, de lucir bien y únicas para los eventos de gala que se les presenten, motivo por el cual encontrar el vestido ideal puede tardar días. Es por esta razón que nace VESYKA S.A.C., proyecto que ofrece a las clientas la oportunidad de tener un guardarropa alternativo a un precio justo. Además, VESYKA S.A.C. ofrece un ahorro de tiempo importante para las usuarias a través de la optimización del proceso mediante nuestro servicio de entrega personalizado. Este mismo consiste en la visita a domicilio de un modista hacia el punto de ubicación detallado por la clienta, para la medida de tallas y personalización del vestido según la preferencia de la mujer. Posteriormente, se realiza la entrega del vestido con las modificaciones realizadas y se procede con el recojo del mismo en la fecha pactada. El enfoque principal de VESYKA S.A.C es la satisfacción de la clienta, desde la valorización de su tiempo hasta hacerlas sentir únicas y especiales en ese evento tan importante para ellas a través de nuestros vestidos de alta calidad y diseños exclusivos. / The business project is called VESYKA S.A.C., which belongs to the women’s clothing services sector, made up of a team of five people who will assume general management, design management, commercial assistants, logistic and accounting. Each of the members of the project has the competencies and skills to perform in their respective areas. VESYKA S.A.C. is an online store where you can rent gala dresses through a website available for any platform such as cell phones, computers, among others. Likewise, the direct channel of contact with the client employed for this project is the social network Facebook, since it is the most used social network of the planet today, according to Nextu. The business model is oriented towards women of the age range found between 25 and 55 years old, with a modern and sophisticated lifestyle and wishing to wear an exclusive dress. As the years go by, there is a growing need for women to look good and unique for the gala events presented to them, which is why finding the ideal dress can take days. It is for this reason that VESYKA S.A.C., a project that offers clients the opportunity to have an alternative wardrobe at a fair price. In addition, VESYKA S.A.C. offers significant time savings for users through process optimization through our personalized delivery service. The same consists of a visit home of a seamstress to the location point detailed by the customer for measuring sizes and customization of the dress according to the woman’s preference. Subsequently, the garment is delivered with the modifications made and is collected on the agreed date. The main focus of VESYKA S.A.C is customer satisfaction, from valuing their time to making them feel unique and special in that event so important to them through our high-quality dresses and exclusive designs. / Trabajo de investigación

Research and anecdotal evidence (e.g., the media) have suggested that individuals’ dress choice could lead to workplace success (e.g., Christman & Branson, 1990; Damhorst, 1990; Johnson & Roach-Higgins, 1987). Invoked in this notion is the premise that the favorable impression formed from wearing a particular dress result in positive treatment from others. While forming a positive impression is an important component of success (Reid, Lancuba, Morrow, 1997; Stuart & Fuller, 1991), workplace success could be a manifestation of the wearer’s daily dress driving changes in their own emotions, thoughts, and behaviors in a workplace relevant manner. Thus, my dissertation focuses on employees’ daily dress aesthetics, dress conformity, and dress comfort to examine whether these variables affect how one feels (i.e., relaxedness) and evaluates oneself (i.e., state self-esteem), thereby further influencing important workplace behaviors (i.e., task withdrawal, goal progress, helping, interaction avoidance). This dissertation also investigates clothing interest, impression management motives, trait self-esteem, and daily dress compliments as boundary conditions that amplify or attenuate the effects of dress aesthetics and dress conformity on work behaviors through self-esteem and relaxedness. / Business Administration/Human Resource Management