Cotton absorbents because of their insolubility, create a problem in sewage disposal. As a solution to this problem, the partial oxidation of cotton with oxides of nitrogen to produce a textile which would disintegrate in sewage within a short time, has been investigated. Raw material for the investigation was spooled, size 30, white, cotton thread which had been dried over P₂O₅. Partial oxidation of the thread by WO₂ gas was carried out in a three-necked 500 ml. distillation flask, the thread being wound uniformly on a polystyrene plastic spool. In the experiments conducted, thread was oxidized for two hour periods at 19, 25, and 31°C; the ratios (by weight) of WO₂ gas to cotton were 0.75. 1.50, 3.00 and 4.50. Gas volume was 545 ml. From analysis using Ludtke’s calcium acetate method, the products were found to have carboxyl (-COOH) group contents of 2.30-7.21 percent. In the temperature range of 19-31°C the degree of oxidation of the cotton varied inversely with the temperature. This phenomenon may be explained by a possible equilibrium in the gaseous state of W₂O₄ and W₂O₃, through which atomic oxygen is made available. The products did not disintegrate or lose tensile strength as a result of exposure to raw sewage for one week. Only four of the products could be accurately tested for tensile strength. These showed a lose in strength of approximately 36-47 percent following oxidation. Products of oxidation having carboxyl (-COOH) group contents of 5.7 percent or greater were relatively stiff and hard as compared to those having lesser carboxyl group contents. When dyed with methylene blue, the inner sections of the thread products, which were not readily exposed to the oxides of nitrogen, showed a lesser affinity for the dye than the exposed, outer sections. As a measured with methylene blue dye, the oxidation reaction penetrated to the inner fibers of the thread products only to a limited extent. / M.S.

Electrically conductive fabrics are one of the major components of smart textile that attracts a lot of attention by the energy, medical, sports and military industry. The principal contributors to the conductivity of the smart textiles are the intrinsic properties of the fiber, functionalization by the addition of conductive particles and the architecture of fibers. In this study, intrinsic properties of non-woven carbon fabric derived from a novel linear lignin, poly-(caffeyl alcohol) (PCFA) discovered in the seeds of the vanilla orchid (Vanilla planifolia) was investigated. In contrast to all known lignins which comprise of polyaromatic networks, the PCFA lignin is a linear polymer. The non-woven fabric was prepared using electrospinning technique, which follows by stabilization and carbonization steps. Results from Raman spectroscopy indicate higher graphitic structure for PCFA carbon as compared to the Kraft lignin, as seen from G/D ratios of 1.92 vs 1.15 which was supported by a high percentage of graphitic (C-C) bond observed from X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy (XPS). Moreover, from the XRD and TEM a larger crystal size (Lc=12.2 nm) for the PCFA fiber was obtained which correlates to the higher modulus and conductivity of the fiber. These plant-sourced carbon fabrics have a valuable impact on zero carbon footprint materials. In order to improve the strength and flexibility of the non-woven carbon fabric, lignin was blended with the synthetic polymer Poly acrylonitrile (PAN) in different concertation, resulting in electrical conductivity up to (7.7 S/cm) on blend composition which is enough for sensing and EMI shielding applications. Next, the design of experiments approach was used to identify the contribution of the carbonization parameters on the conductivity of the fabrics and architecture of the fibers, results show carbonization temperature as the major contributing factor to the conductivity of non-woven fabric. Finally, a manufacturing procedure was develop inspired by the architecture of plant fibers to induce controlled porosity either on the skin or core of fibers which results in stiffness and flexibility in the fibers. Coaxial Electrospinning and Physical foaming (CO2 foaming) techniques were utilized to create the hierarchical fiber architecture. Finite Element model was developed to design for mechanical properties of the bioinspired fiber mesh. Results show the polymers contributes less in a coaxial design as compared to the individual fibers for mechanical properties. This manufacturing method can use for hierarchical functionalization of fibers by adding conductive nanoparticles at different levels of fiber cross-section utilized for sensing applications in sports and medical industry.

Thèse ou mémoire avec insertion d’articles / Dans l'optique de la création d'un vêtement intelligent original multi-capteur, et permettant la mesure de différents signes physiologiques, une nouvelle fibre électrode sèche et flexible, en PDMS et nanotube de carbone, est créée. Ce vêtement intelligent innovant aurait l'avantage de n'utiliser que la fibre électrode, qui est un capteur peu coûteux et relativement facile à concevoir. L'intégration au textile est facilitée par l'aspect filiforme du capteur, et également par le fait qu'aucune modification majeure du textile est nécessaire à son intégration. Les grandeurs que l'on cherche à acquérir sont les électrocardiogrammes, les électromyogrammes de surface, et le mouvement. La fibre ayant déjà été évaluée pour la mesure de la respiration, le couplage de toutes ces grandeurs permettrait d'obtenir un aperçu global de l'état de santé de l'utilisateur. Une problématique d'étude de la fatigue musculaire est également levée, et l'analyse poussée du mouvement par l'utilisation de la fibre de manière simultanée à la mesure des électromyogrammes serait un atout pour cette dernière. Le circuit imprimé conçu pour la mesure des électromyogrammes de surface et du mouvement est miniaturisé, portatif, autonome et sans fil. Celui pour la mesure des électrocardiogrammes fonctionne en filaire, et doit encore être miniaturisé. Les circuits électroniques sont donc conçus spécialement pour être à l'interface entre la fibre électrode et l'utilisateur. Ils sont décrits et évalués tout au long de ce projet. Des tests de ces circuits seront présentés avec des électrodes de référence en Ag/AgCl, puis avec la nouvelle fibre PDMS. / With the aim of creating an original multi-sensor smart garment, and allowing the measurement of different physiological signs, a new dry and flexible electrode fiber, made of PDMS and carbon nanotube, is created. This innovative smart garment would have the advantage of using only the electrode fiber, which is an inexpensive and relatively easy to design sensor. The integration to the textile is facilitated by the thread-like aspect of the sensor, and also by the fact that no major modification of the textile is required for its integration. The parameters we are looking to acquire are electrocardiograms, surface electromyograms, and motion. The fiber having already been evaluated for the measurement of breathing, the coupling of all these quantities would make it possible to obtain an overall view of the health of the user. A problem of studying muscle fatigue is also raised, and the advanced analysis of the movement by using the fiber simultaneously with the measurement of electromyograms would be an asset for the latter. The circuit board designed for the measurement of surface electromyograms and movement is miniaturized, portable, autonomous and wireless. The one for the measurement of electrocardiograms is wired, and still needs to be miniaturized. The electronic circuits are therefore specially designed to be at the interface between the fiber electrode and the user. They are described and evaluated throughout this project. Tests of these circuits will be presented with Ag/AgCl reference electrodes, then with the new PDMS fiber.

Lorsque des vaisseaux autologues ne sont pas disponibles pour faire un pontage, des greffons synthétiques sont utilisés mais avec des taux d’échec élevés. En effet, malgré leurs bonnes propriétés mécaniques, la surface synthétique de ces greffons entraîne de la thrombose et de l’hyperplasie intimale ayant pour conséquence une mauvaise perméabilité du substitut à long terme pour de nombreuses applications. Par ingénierie tissulaire, des greffons vasculaires entièrement biologiques et humains ont déjà été produits par roulage de feuillets de matrice extracellulaire synthétisée par des fibroblastes dermiques humains in vitro. Grâce à une nouvelle méthode d’assemblage basée sur une approche textile, des greffons ont été produits trois fois plus rapidement. Pour ce faire, le feuillet a été découpé en fils afin de permettre la construction d’un substitut vasculaire par tissage. Cette thèse comporte trois articles. Le premier visait à montrer la composition riche de la matrice, décrire l’organisation de son réseau complexe de collagènes et démontrer que la dévitalisation par séchage de la matrice n’a pas affecté significativement cette organisation. Le deuxième avait pour but de décrire les propriétés mécaniques des fils en fonction du torsadage et/ou de l’âge de la matrice ainsi que l’effet sur la force de différents traitements nécessaires au processus de fabrication. Les différentes applications de l’approche textile dans la construction de structures complexes ainsi que les propriétés mécaniques des substituts tissés ont également été évaluées. Le troisième article a montré la faible réponse inflammatoire ainsi que le potentiel d’intégration et de remodelage de la matrice in vivo. Par ailleurs, la décellularisation n’a pas montré de résultats supérieurs à la dévitalisation, permettant ainsi de s’affranchir d’une étape de fabrication supplémentaire et potentiellement délétère à l’organisation biologique de cette matrice. En conclusion, cette thèse constitue la première démonstration de la fabrication de textiles humains mécaniquement très forts mais sans utilisation de matériel exogène. La dévitalisation couplée à l’approche textile ont permis de créer un modèle allogénique plus simple, plus rapide et moins coûteux mais avec un potentiel d’intégration in vivo intact. Ce modèle sera très prochainement étudié par implantation à long terme dans la circulation sanguine. / When autologous blood vessels are not available for bypass surgery, synthetic grafts are used but display high failure rates. Indeed, despite their good mechanical properties, their synthetic surface lead to thrombosis and intimal hyperplasia, which cause poor long-term patency in many applications. Using tissue engineering, completely biological and human vascular grafts have been produced by rolling sheets of extracellular matrix synthesized by dermal human fibroblasts in vitro. Using a new assembly technique based on a textile approach, grafts were produced three-time faster. To do so, sheets were cut into yarns to construct vascular substitute by weaving. This manuscript includes three articles. The first one aimed at showing the rich composition of the matrix, describing the organization of its complex network of collagens and demonstrating that the devitalization by drying the matrix did not significantly affect this organization. The second one described the mechanical properties of the yarns depending on the twisting, matrix age or different treatments useful for the manufacturing process. It also demonstrated some of the assembly techniques possible with this human yarn, as well as its possible use as a suture or to build a vascular graft. The third article showed the survival of the yarns subcutaneously implanted for 6 month in nude rats. The implants created little inflammatory response, were mildly remodeled and kept a significant mechanical strength. Decellularization did not show results improvement compared to the simple devitalization, demonstrating that the remaining cellular fragments were not a meaningful activator of the innate immune system. To conclude, this thesis is the first demonstration of the production of human textiles, without using any exogenous material and that are mechanically very strong. Both the devitalization and the textile approach have allowed to create a simpler allogeneic model, faster and cheaper but with an intact potential of integration in vivo, that will be studied very soon with a long-term implantation of the textile in the bloodstream.

Technical textiles are one of the fastest growing sectors of the global textile industry, especially in the medical application which is considered as one of the most important applications of technical textiles. Plaster (gypsum) and plastics casts are widely used nowadays in hospitals, pharmacies and health care centers. But they are heavy, not washable, do not offer a suitable fixation for bone fractures (e.g. hand wrist) and always in individually sizes. After decrease of swelling, the cast is in a hard form and the stabilization effect of the cast is insufficient due to the occurring of distance between the skin and the cast. In this work, a new pneumatic cast is developed, that depends on a coated fabric as an outer layer, skin friendly fabrics as internal layers, air chamber and metal braces. For more comfort, the cast is anatomically formed and includes four internal layers of cotton/viscose fabric and polyester spacer fabric. The new developed cast controls the pressure on the injured part by using a pneumatic system. In a comparison with plaster and plastic casts that are heavy, not washable, provide an insufficient fixation after swelling decrease and always in individually sizes; the new developed pneumatic cast is light weight, easy to use, washable, mass-produced and offer the required fixation to the injured part during swelling conditions.

Le tricotage est une technique d'obtention de textiles ancestrale qui est encore couramment utilisée de nos jours. Cette technique permet de produire des textiles possédant une forte déformation élastique, un comportement mécanique anisotrope modifiable simplement en jouant sur la géométrie de la maille, la possibilité d'obtenir des formes générales (préformes) ou internes (trous) durant le procédé de fabrication, rendant ces textiles particulièrement attractifs et rentables. Plus récemment, l’utilisation des alliages à mémoire de forme (AMF), en particulier de fils de Nickel-Titane (Ni-Ti), pour produire ces tricots a permis de proposer des textiles aux fonctionnalités nouvelles, telles qu'une très grande déformation élastique, un changement de forme sous l'effet d'un échauffement, une forte capacité d’amortissement, etc.Cependant, le comportement mécanique de tels tricots AMF reste encore assez mal connu, et bien qu'un certain nombre d'études aient déjà été proposées dans la littérature concernant la caractérisation du comportement mécanique de ces tricots, l'application aux tricots NiTi reste insuffisamment faite.Dans ce travail, un ensemble d’outils expérimentaux et numériques a été mis en place pour étudier la déformation des tricots NiTi, en particulier pour évaluer l'influence des paramètres matériaux, géométrie, frottements, etc., sur le comportement mécanique. Un montage expérimental a été développé pour caractériser le textile en traction biaxiale. Il s'inspire des techniques utilisées pour les membranes souples visant à obtenir un champ de déformation le plus uniforme possible dans la zone déformée. De plus, sa conception ainsi qu’un programme de traitement d'images permettent la mesure de la distribution des efforts aux frontières ainsi que la mesure de la morphologie des mailles du tricot au cours de la déformation.Le comportement mécanique du tricot a été modélisé par homogénéisation numérique en réalisant des simulations numériques par éléments finis sur une maille représentative sous conditions périodiques. Les prédictions des simulations sont validées en regard des résultats expérimentaux obtenus sur les tricots NiTi, en traction simple et traction biaxiale suivant les directions chaine et trame. Elles sont ensuite utilisées pour analyser l'importance des différents mécanismes de déformation en fonction de la sollicitation étudiée. / Knitting is an ancestral textile manufacturing technique which is still commonly used nowadays. This method allows to manufacture textiles possessing high recoverable strains, an anisotropic mechanical behavior easily tuned by varying the knit loop dimensions, the ability to obtain general forms (preforms) or internal forms (holes) during the manufacturing process, and more, making those textiles particularly attractive and cost-efficient. More recently, the use of Shape Memory Alloys (SMA), notably Nickel-Titanium (Ni-Ti) wires, for producing those textiles allowed to propose textiles with new functional properties, such as very high recoverable strains, shape-shifting effects under temperature changes, high damping capacity, etc.However, such SMA knitted textiles mechanical behavior remains relatively unknown, and even if a certain number of studies have dealt with the knitted textiles mechanical characterization, the application to NiTi knitted textiles remains insufficiently done.In this work, a set of experimental and numerical tools have been developed to study knitted NiTi textiles deformation, especially to evaluate the influence of material parameters, knit geometry, friction, etc., on the mechanical behavior. An experimental setup has been developed to characterize such textiles in biaxial tension. It is inspired by methods developed for soft membranes aiming at obtaining strain fields as uniform as possible in the sample working area. Furthermore, its conception as well as a dedicated image processing software allow measuring boundary forces distributions and knit loops morphology during deformation.The knitted textile mechanical behavior has been modeled using numerical homogenization method by performing finite elements numerical simulation of a representative knit loop under periodic conditions. Simulations predictions are validated in regard to experimental results obtained on knitted NiTi textiles, in simple tension and biaxial tension in course and wale directions. They are then used to analyze the importance of different deformation mechanisms depending on the loading case studied.

Middle Horizon Textiles: Evidence from Huaca Malena, Asia ValleyArchaeological research was undertaken in 1997 at Huaca Malena in the Asia valley of Peru's south central coast, under the auspices of the Asia Municipal Government. The archaeological complex consists of an Early Intermediate architectural complex that has a huge Middle Horizon Epoch 2B and 3 cemetery intruded into its upper platforms. These intrusive tombs consist of circular pits containing several individuals. Textile wrappings on the bodies reveal a stratified society in which elites possessed extremely fine weavings characterized by Wari iconography reminiscent of the Conchopata and Atarco ceramic styles. Also associated, however, are textiles from other regional traditions, providing a new and broader vision of Middle Horizon societies. / Bajo los auspicios de la Municipalidad de Asia, en 1997 se realizaron estudios en el sitio denominado Huaca Malena, valle de Asia, costa sur-central del Perú. Esta es una construcción del Periodo lntermedio Temprano, sobre cuyas plataformas superiores se emplazó un gran cementerio correspondiente a las épocas 2B y 3 del Horizonte Medio. Las tumbas intrusivas son de planta circular y contienen varios individuos. Los fardos funerarios reflejan una sociedad estratificada cuyos contextos de elite contienen finísimos tejidos con iconografía wari, que recuerda a La cerámica de los estilos Conchopata y Atarco. Asociados a estos, igualmente, aparecen tejidos relacionados a otras tradiciones regionales y locales, lo que permite obtener una visión más amplia de las sociedades del Horizonte Medio.

"El Castillo" de Huarmey: A Middle Horizon Burial PlatformDue to excellent conditions of preservation excavations at the Middle Horizon site "El Castillo" de Huarmey have yielded many textiles. It is now clear that the majority of the textiles known as "Moche-Huari" come from this site. In this paper architectural remains at the site and other surface findings are described and discussed. These new data shed interesting light on cultural dynamics in this region during the Middle Horizon. / Gracias a unas excelentes condiciones de conservación, se ha podido recuperar un gran número de tejidos del "Castillo" de Huarmey, complejo correspondiente al Horizonte Medio. La mayoría de los tejidos "moche-huari" que se conocen actualmente provienen de este sitio. En este trabajo se discuten tambien los restos arquitectónicos conservados, así como hallazgos de superficie de otros tipos de materiales. Los datos obtenidos revelan aspectos interesantes acerca de la dinámica cultural en esta región durante el Horizonte Medio.

Cette thèse se propose d’étudier de manière approfondie les matières colorantes et les techniques de coloration appliquées aux textiles de la culture Nasca. Cette civilisation préhispanique, sans écriture, s’est développée sur la côte sud du Pérou pendant environ neuf siècles (200 ans av. J.-C. ; 700 ans apr. J.-C.). Parmi sa culture matérielle, les textiles sont abondants et nombre d’entre eux sont de grande finesse avec des décors polychromes. La polychromie avait probablement une signification dans la cosmogonie Nasca et le textile est particulièrement chargé de sens dans la culture andine. Pourtant, les matériaux de la couleur demeurent un sujet encore méconnu dans le domaine textile. Il semblait donc intéressant d’identifier au moyen de méthodes physico-chimiques les matières colorantes utilisées par les artistes textiles Nasca. Pour ce faire, une enquête de terrain a été menée en amont pour récolter et identifier les sources colorantes susceptibles d’avoir été employées. Puis un corpus textile a été constitué avec des textiles inédits, issus de fouilles récentes menées sur les sites de Los Molinos, Estaqueria et Cahuachi, l’ancien centre politico-cérémoniel des Nasca. Quelques tissus d’autres cultures (Topará, Mochica et Nasca drivé) ont aussi été analysés pour établir des comparaisons.Les résultats fournissent de précieuses informations qui caractérisent la production tinctoriale et picturale des textiles Nasca. Au-delà de cet aspect technique, ces données sont utiles pour aborder sous un autre angle des problématiques archéologiques plus complexes notamment lorsque l’attribution culturelle des textiles est inconnue ou discutée, comme ceux de la péninsule de Paracas. / This thesis’ aim is to propose an in-depth study of the dye-sources and dyeing and colouring techniques used for textiles in the Nasca civilization. This Pre-Columbian, pre-literate civilization flourished on the southern coast of Peru during some nine centuries (200 BC to 700 AD). In its material culture, textiles are very numerous and many of them are of outstanding quality, with a rich polychromatic ornamentation. Polychromy probably was of great significance among the Nasca and textiles seem to always have been of particular importance in Andean culture. Nevertheless, the material sources of the colours on these dyed and painted textiles have remained a comparatively poorly explored research field. It therefore appeared as a promising, innovative quest to try and identify the colouring matters used by Nasca textile artists, using state-of-the art physico-chemical analytical methods. To this effect, botanical and anthropological field missions were first conducted in order to identify and collect colouring sources that might have been employed by the Nasca dyers and textile painters. A corpus of archaeological textiles was assembled, selecting textiles discovered in the course of recent archaeological excavations on the sites of Los Molinos, Estaqueria and Cahuachi, the latter being the antique political and ceremonial centre of the Nasca civilization. A number of textiles from other cultures (Topará, Mochica and Nasca-derived) were also analyzed to allow comparisons.Our results bring precious new information on the production of dyes and paints on Nasca textiles. Allowing even further prospects than these important technical discoveries, they bring new light into complex archaeological issues, such as the cultural attribution of archaeological textiles whose provenance is unknown or disputed, which is the case for some textiles from the Paracas peninsula.

La production de textiles fut initiée par les protestants Henri IV et Sully, épaulés en cela par Barthélemy de Laffemas. Dans la seconde partie du XVIIe siècle, ils constituèrent une telle source de revenus pour la couronne qu’ils devinrent, entre les mains de Louis XIV et de Colbert, une affaire d’État. De nombreuses manufactures et compagnies commerciales furent alors créées sur décision royale. La fabrication et la distribution furent dès lors légalement corsetées. Dans le Midi-toulousain, les plus riches marchands finançaient la culture de matières premières ou la façon de broderies, de dentelles et d’étoffes. L’essentiel de l’activité de Toulouse s’articula cependant autour du négoce, même si certains tissages effectués in situ furent suffisamment estimés des habitants pour marquer leur temps. Les textes d’archives dévoilent certains usages élaborés autour des textiles, comme la charge de dorer et nipper la future épousée ou encore les pratiques de deuil. Ils décrivent, à travers les décors intérieurs, comment les notions de mode, de luxe et d’opulence s’étaient imposées d’une façon si particulière dans la ville. / Textile production began with the protestant king Henri IV, helped by Sully and Barhélemy de Laffemas. In the second half of the seventh century, they constituted a so much source of income for the crown, that Louis XIV and Colbert made of it a real business of state. Many manufactories and commercial companies were created by royal decision and legally assisted. In south of France, the most famous and rich traders financed the production of laces, embroideries, and various stuffes. The most important part of Toulouse activity was trade, even if many weaving realized in the town, were enough estimated by the population to have had a strong influence. Archives records reveal customs worked out textiles, like the development of the bundles or the way to be in mourning. They show interiors design and the manner whereby notion of luxury, fashion, and wealth light up in the city.