La Spectrométrie de Masse d'Ions Secondaires à Temps de Vol (ToF-SIMS) permet la caractérisation de l'extrême surface à haute sensibilité via la détection d'ions secondaires atomiques et moléculaires. Ces travaux ont visé à étudier son application pour l'analyse de textiles industriels auxquels ont été conférées des propriétés dermatologiques (cosmétotextiles). Trois démarches analytiques adaptées aux spécificités des agents actifs et des technologies utilisées ont été présentées. Elles ont nécessité un développement particulier des méthodes employées (étude préliminaire, calibration, traitement et interprétation des données) et de tenir compte des possibilités et des limites de la technique ou de l'appareillage utilisé dans le contexte particulier de l'analyse des fibres textiles (topographie, effet de charge localisé, contaminations, formulations complexes, ségrégation et concentration de certains constituants des traitements en extrême surface).Dans la première démarche, la cartographie chimique ToF-SIMS a été utilisée avec succès pour illustrer l'existence d'un gradient de concentration en agent actif près de l'extrême surface de matrices polyamides. La capacité à identifier les signatures caractéristiques des agents actifs et valider leur présence en surface des échantillons textiles a pu être confirmée dans la majorité des cas. Cependant l'utilisation de signatures différentes de celles de l'agent actif a été nécessaire pour valider la présence de traitement dans le cas des textiles traités par co-précipitation. Enfin, un protocole de décapage doux a été testé pour faire face au problème particulier du recouvrement des textiles industriels par des apprêts siliconés / Time-of-Flight Secondary Ion Mass spectrometry (ToF-SIMS) allows the characterization of the outermost surface with high sensitivity by mass detection of atomic and molecular secondary ions. The objective of this work was to study its application in the context of the analysis of industrial textiles on which dermatological properties are given (cosmetotextiles). Three analytical approaches based on the specific properties of the active agents and technologies are presented. They required peculiar developments of methods (preliminary study, calibration, data processing and interpretation ...) and to consider the possibilities and limitations of the technique or the equipment in the particular context of these textile fibers analysis (topography, localized charge effect, contamination, complex formulations, segregation and concentration of some components from the treatments at the outermost surface ...).In the first approach, ToF-SIMS chemical mapping was used to successfully illustrate an active agent concentration gradient close to the outermost surface of polyamide matrices. The ability to identify the characteristic signatures of active agents and to validate their presence at the surface of textile samples was confirmed in most cases. However, signatures different from those from the active agent were needed to validate the treatment in the case of textiles treated by co-precipitation. Finally, a gentle sputtering protocol was tested to address the particular issue of industrial textiles covered with silicone based textile finishing

Le phénomène de la désindustrialisation est abordé à partir de deux approches différentes et complémentaires: celle d’un territoire, le quartier de Vaise, ancien quartier industriel proche du centre-ville de Lyon, et celle d’une entreprise, Rhône-Poulenc-Textile, anciennement Rhodiaceta, représentant le plus important ensemble industriel de Vaise. La désindustrialisation du quartier de Vaise a été particulièrement rapide et radicale, se traduisant par la disparition entre 1975 et 2005 de l’essentiel de ses emplois industriels, tandis que les surfaces occupées par l’industrie diminuaient des deux tiers. Le secteur s’est transformé en une vingtaine d’années en un quartier résidentiel et de bureaux, où l’industrie n’a plus guère sa place.En 1977, Rhône-Poulenc-Textile annonce son Plan textile prévoyant une réduction de moitié de ses productions textiles chimiques en France, la fermeture emblématique de son usine-mère de filature du nylon à Vaise qui avait connu jusqu’à 7 000 salariés et fabriqué le premier fil nylon en France, mais aussi celles de Roussillon, Besançon, Vaulx-en-Velin… Il ne s’agit pas seulement d’une restructuration mais d’une véritable désindustrialisation.Pour ces deux exemples, l’étude recherche les causes des transformations mises en évidence, auprès de leurs acteurs : les dirigeants de Rhône-Poulenc, les décideurs politiques tant au gouvernement que dans les collectivités territoriales, l’importance décisive ou non des crises économiques que cette période a connues. / The deindustrialization phenomenon is approached by two different and complementary ways: one about the territory, Vaise district, old industrial district near the Lyon’s town center, and the other about a company, Rhône-Poulenc-Textile, before called Rhodiaceta, the biggest industrial of Vaise.The Vaise district deindustrialization has been particularly fast and radical, showing the disappearance between 1975 and 2005 of most of industrial employments, whereas the busy surfaces by the industry decreased by two thirds.The sector was transformed into about twenty years in a residential and offices district, where the industry has hardly its place.In 1977, Rhône-Poulenc-Textile announces his textile Plan, foreseeing a reduction of half of its textile chemical productions in France, the emblematic closure of its manufactory mother of nylon spinning in Vaise which had known up to 7 000 employees and had made the first thread nylon in France, but also these of Roussillon, Besançon, Vaulx-en-Velin… It’s not only a restructuring but a real deindustrialization.For these two examples, the study looks for the cause of processing put there evidence, with their actors: Rhône-Poulenc managers, the politic deciders in the government as well as the territorial communities, the decisive importance or not of the economic crises that the period has knew.

Technical textiles are one of the fastest growing sectors of the global textile industry, especially in the medical application which is considered as one of the most important applications of technical textiles. Plaster (gypsum) and plastics casts are widely used nowadays in hospitals, pharmacies and health care centers. But they are heavy, not washable, do not offer a suitable fixation for bone fractures (e.g. hand wrist) and always in individually sizes. After decrease of swelling, the cast is in a hard form and the stabilization effect of the cast is insufficient due to the occurring of distance between the skin and the cast. In this work, a new pneumatic cast is developed, that depends on a coated fabric as an outer layer, skin friendly fabrics as internal layers, air chamber and metal braces. For more comfort, the cast is anatomically formed and includes four internal layers of cotton/viscose fabric and polyester spacer fabric. The new developed cast controls the pressure on the injured part by using a pneumatic system. In a comparison with plaster and plastic casts that are heavy, not washable, provide an insufficient fixation after swelling decrease and always in individually sizes; the new developed pneumatic cast is light weight, easy to use, washable, mass-produced and offer the required fixation to the injured part during swelling conditions.

Les filaments composites cœur/peau ont été développés dans le but de proposer des capteurs et de effecteurs textiles pour des applications « smart textiles ». Le filage des filaments a été effectué avec une technique de type extrudeuse à piston. Le travail a porté sur la modification d’une machine de filage par fusion, de la caractérisation de polymères, de la caractérisation des filaments développés et de l’optimisation des techniques d’obtention des filaments. La conception du procédé ainsi que son optimisation ont été effectués avec du PET. La modification de la machine a consisté à concevoir les filières, modifier le piston et à introduire un canal d’alimentation sous forme de tube en inox pour sécuriser le passage du filament métallique d’âme dans le four. Ainsi, 10 filières différentes et trois pistons ont été conçus en se fondant sur les règles industrielles puis leurs performances ont été optimisées. Les polymères ont été caractérisés par DSC, par rhéologie et par techniques analytiques. Ces résultats ont montré la forte influence de la température en particulier une forte réduction de la cristallinité du filament composite. L’optimisation des paramètres d’extrusion a pris en compte la vitesse du piston, la vitesse de bobinage, les modifications de la machine dont le nombre de trous des filières, la position du tube dans la filière, les dimensions internes du tube, le diamètre de sortie de la filière. Il a été montré que la conception de la filière a une influence significative sur la forme des filaments obtenus ainsi que sur la concentricité de l’âme. Les propriétés physiques, morphologiques, tribologiques et mécaniques des filaments ont été mesurés. Ainsi, les filaments ont des diamètres compris entre 350 et 500 µm et peuvent être de formes elliptique, triangulaire, rectangulaire ou circulaire et les meilleures propriétés mécaniques sont obtenues avec les filaments le plus réguliers tandis que les filaments irréguliers présentent un coefficient de frottement plus important. Les résultats concernant la rigidité en flexion se sont avérés peu fiables. A partir des paramètres optimisés, un filament composite de polymère ferroélectrique (PVDF 70%-TrFE 30%) avec une âme cuivre a été filé et a montré de parfaites caractéristiques de forme et de concentricité. Ce filament composite peut maintenant être utilisé pour développer des capteurs et des effecteurs, des transmetteurs de signaux, des boucliers électromagnétiques et de l’électronique intégrable dans les vêtements. / A coaxial composite fiber has been developed for the intended application in textile based sensors, actuators and eletric signal transmissions in wearable textile products. The work focuses on melt extrusion machine modification, characterization of polymers, characterization of developed filaments and optimization techniques for obtaining required results. Melt extrusion machine has been used having piston based mechanism. The process design and optimization was done using polyester polymer. The machine modification includes design of spinnert, piston end modification and introduction of separate feeding channel for core filament in the oven. A number of 10 spinnerets designs were developed according to industrial die design rules and optimized for their performance. The piston end designs developed were 3 in number. A stainless steel tube has been introduced into the oven for a separate secure passage of core filament. The polymer characterization was done by thermal, rheological and analytical techniques. The obtained results exhibited thermal attibutes of the polymer and showed reduction in degree of crystallanity in composite filament. The optimization of extrusion parameters including piston speed, winding speed ; and modifications in machine which includes design parameters of number of holes, tube position, tube internal diameter and spinneret exit diameter were done. It was observed that design parameters have significant effect on cross-sectional shape, eccentricity of core and morphology of filament. The characterization of composite filament has been carried out by physical, morphological, mechanical, tribology and bending techniques. The composite filaments developed were in range of 350-500 µm diameter. The filaments developed have elliptical, triangular, rectangular and circular shapes. The regular filaments showed higher tenacity and breaking strength than irregular shaped filaments. The frictional coefficient values were found higher for irregular shapes. Bending stiffness results obtained were not reliable for irregular cross-sectional shapes. The optimized parameters wers used to develop composite filament using ferroelectric polymer (PVDF-TrFE) having 70 :30 ratio copolymer. The developed filament was very regular in shape with good eccentricity of core. The developed Cu/PVDF-TrFE core/sheath filament can be used for development of sensors and actuators. The Cu/Polyester core/sheath filament can be used for electrical signal transmission lines in wearable electronic textiles and for development of electromagnetic shielding effectiveness fabrics.

Fiber-reinforced composites are currently being used in a wide range of lightweight constructions. Function integration, in particular, offers possibilities to develop new, innovative products for a variety of applications. The large amount of experimental testing required to investigate these novel material combinations often hinders their use in industrial applications. This paper presents an approach that allows the layout of adaptive, fiber-reinforced composites by the use of numerical simulation. In order to model the adaptive characteristics of this functional composite with textile-integrated shape memory alloys, a thermo-elastic simulation is considered by using the Finite Element method. For the numerical simulation, the parameters of the raw materials are identified and used to generate the model. The results of this simulation are validated through deflection measurements with a specimen consisting of a glass fiber fabric with structurally integrated shape memory alloys and an elastomeric matrix system. The achieved experimental and numerical results demonstrate the promising potential of adaptive, fiber-reinforced composites with large deformation capabilities.

L’histoire de la Thaïlande, et sa politique d’intégration des «Montagnards», expliquent la spécificité de la situation des Karen sur le territoire national. Ces derniers ne forment pas un groupe homogène, comme le montre mon ethnographie. A partir, et par la comparaison de deux villages sgaw karen, j’appréhende le vêtement karen et la structure des garde-robes comme révélateurs de «l’identité» de ces populations qui se revendiquent à la fois Karen et Thaïlandaises. Ce qui fait le vêtement karen, les règles internes à la culture karen et les influences extérieures, se dégagent de l’analyse technologique et de la typologie qui en découle. Le processus de constitution des garde-robes, au quotidien et en contexte cérémoniel, mettent en exergue la place centrale de la femme. Le prisme du vêtement nous révèle une société attachée à la continuité des générations et intégrée dans la société thaïlandaise dont elle adopte, en partie, les codes. / The history of Thailand and its integration policy for the «people of the Mountains» account for the specific situation of the Karen on the national territory. As my ethnologic study shows, these people do not constitute a homogeneous group. Taking as a starting point the comparison between two sgaw villages, I consider the Karen garment and the structure of the wardrobes as revealing the identity of these people who claim to be both Karen and Thai. The technological analysis and the ensuing typology outline what characterizes the Karen garment, the internal rules within the Karen culture and the external influences. The process of the development of the wardrobes, in daily use and in ceremonies, highlights the central position of women. Through the prism of the garment, is revealed a society attached to the succession of generations and integrated into the Thai society whose codes it partly adopts.

Les résidus textiles archéologiques de l’Orient ancien sont rares. En Mésopotamie, la plupart des connaissances sur les textiles proviennent de textes cunéiformes. Fabriqués à partir de fibres animales ou végétales, les textiles sont périssables dans la plupart des environnements archéologiques. Un des principaux processus de préservation exceptionnelle de fibres archéologiques implique le contact avec un artefact métallique, ce phénomène est appelé « minéralisation ». Très peu de travaux ont été consacrés à l’étude approfondie des processus de minéralisation des textiles cellulosiques. Ce travail de doctorat a consisté à étudier à multi-échelles l’interaction entre substrat métallique à base cuivre et textile ancien, à partir d’échantillons provenant des sites archéologiques de Tello, de Nausharo et de Gonur-Depe (3e et 2e millénaire av. J.-C.). Le travail a permis de mettre en place une nouvelle méthodologie d’imagerie par microtomographie synchrotron de rayons X semi-quantitative afin de décrire la composition de ces systèmes complexes, hétérogènes et réactifs en 3d. Ces développements nous ont permis d’approfondir la description archéologique de ces textiles et de leur contexte d’enfouissement, en relation avec la question de leur production et de leur usage passés. Nous avons enfin abordé la description du système hybride fibres–produits de corrosion et la présence de signatures organiques dans ces systèmes hybrides altérés en vue de décrire les mécanismes à l’origine de leur conservation exceptionnelle. / Archaeological textile remains from the ancient East are rare. In Mesopotamia, most of the knowledge about textiles comes from cuneiform texts. Made from animal or vegetable fibres, textiles are perishable in most archaeological environments. One of the main processes of exceptional preservation of archaeological fibres involves contact with a metallic artefact, this phenomenon is called "mineralization". Very little work has been done on the in-depth study of the mineralization processes of cellulosic textiles. This PhD work consisted of a multi-scale study of the interaction between copper-base substrate and ancient textiles, based on samples from the archaeological sites of Tello, Nausharo and Gonur-Depe (3rd and 2nd millennium BC). The work made it possible to implement a new imaging methodology using synchrotron-based semi-quantitative X-ray microtomography to describe the composition of these complex, heterogeneous and reactive systems in 3d. These developments have allowed us to deepen the archaeological description of these textiles and their burial context in relation to the question of their production and use in past times. Finally, we discussed the description of the hybrid system of fibre-corrosion product and the presence of organic signatures in these altered hybrid systems in order to describe the mechanisms underlying their exceptional conservation.

L'utilisation des microcapsules fabriquées à partir de matériaux respectueux de l'environnement pour des applications textiles médicales a été étudiée et développée fortement au cours des dernières années. Le but de cette thèse est d'élaborer les textiles anti-inflammatoires à base de microcapsules respectueuses de l'environnement, utilisant trois types de matériaux textiles (coton, peco 65/35 et polyester) et cinq niveaux de longueur de boucle (2.81, 2.83, 2.87, 2,96 et 3,05 mm) sur étoffes tricotées à verrouillage de coton (nombre de fils Ne40). Les influences de la concentration en saponine, de la vitesse d'agitation au cours de l'étape d'émulsification et du volume d'éthyle acétate ajouté à la phase aqueuse sur les caractéristiques des microcapsules ont été étudiées. L'étude a également étudié les effets du rapport massique du coton et de la longueur de boucle des étoffes tricotées sur la distribution des microcapsules, la capacité de chargement des microcapsules et la capacité de libération de l'ibuprofène des étoffes tricotées traités par microcapsules. Les microcapsules d'Eudragit RSPO contenant de l'ibuprofène ont été élaborées par la technique d'évaporation de solvant, en utilisant le tensioactif bio-sourcé quillaja saponine et le solvant non halogéné d'éthyle acétate. Les microcapsules obtenues présentaient les formes sphériques avec un diamètre d (0,5) de 21,5 μm, approprié pour les applications textiles. Il a été trouvé que, pour empêcher la déformation des microcapsules pendant la traitement du textile, la séchage doit être effectuée sous vide à 45 ° C. Lorsque le rapport de teneur en fibres de coton dans le tissu augmentait, la distribution des microcapsules était moins régulière, ce qui entraînait un taux de libération plus faible de l'ibuprofène à partir des étoffes tricotées traités aux microcapsules. En outre, lorsque la longueur de la boucle augmente, la capacité de chargement des microcapsules des étoffes tricotées traités augmente, la distribution des microcapsules sur le tissu devient moins régulière et la vitesse de libération de l'ibuprofène des tissus traités aux microcapsules diminue. De plus, l'augmentation de l'extension du étoffes tricotées a favorisé la libération d'ibuprofène à partir des étoffes tricotées traités par les microcapsules à travers la peau de porc / The use of the microcapsules made from eco-friendly materials for medical textile applications has been researched and developed strongly in recent years. The aim of this thesis is to elaborate the anti-inflammatory textiles basing on eco-friendly microcapsules,using three kinds of textile materials (cotton, peco 65/35 and polyester)and five levels of the loop length (2.81, 2.83, 2.87, 2.96 and 3.05 mm) on the cotton interlock knitted fabrics (yarn count Ne40). The influences of the saponin concentration, the stirring rate during the emulsification step and the volume of ethyl acetate added to the aqueous phase on the characteristics of the microcapsules were studied. The influence of condition in drying on microcapsule’s morphology was also investigated.The thesis also researched the effects of cotton mass ratio and loop length of fabric on the microcapsule distribution, the microcapsule loading capability and the release capability of ibuprofen from the microcapsule treated fabrics. The Eudragit RSPO microcapsules containing ibuprofen were successfully elaborated by solvent evaporation technique, using the bio-sourced surfactant quillajasaponin and the non-halogenated solvent ethyl acetate. The obtained microcapsules exhibited the spherical shapes with d(0.5) diameter of 21.5 m, suitable for the textile applications. It was found that in order to keep the microcapsules from deformation during the textile finishing, the drying stage should be carried out in vacuum at 45oC. When the content ratio of cotton fibers in the fabric increased,the microcapsule distribution was less even, resulting in the lower release rate of ibuprofen from the microcapsule-treated fabrics. Besides, when the loop length increased, the microcapsule loading capability of the treated fabrics increased, the microcapsule distribution on the fabric became less even and the release rate of ibuprofen from the microcapsule-treated fabrics decreased. Furthermore, increasing the fabric extension favored the release of ibuprofen from the microcapsule-treated fabrics through the pigskin

Background: This study describes the incentives and barriers of public procurement ofcellulose-based and locally produced textiles in the Swedish healthcaresector governed by the county councils and regions. The size of the publicprocurement market is substantial which makes it imperative to analyse theprocurement decisions taken by this large customer from asustainability perspective. To understand these decisions better the publicprocurement is also analysed from an organisational perspective discussingpressures from global, regional and local stakeholders and governingauthorities.Methods: Empirical and primary data was collected from three semi-structuredinterviews with procurement officers, strategic buyers and heads ofprocurement departments in three county councils and regions in Sweden.The qualitative data was supplemented with quantitative data from a surveytargeting the additional 18 county councils and regions in Sweden. All 21county councils and regions in Sweden participated in or responded to theinterview and survey study. Six (33 %) complete responses were submitted,while five (28 %) surveys were partially responded to. Seven (39 %) countycouncils and regions did not participate in the study. The quantitative surveydata was analysed through the Fisher’s exact test and a thematic analysis wasapplied jointly on the interview and survey data due to the identicalinterview and survey questions.Results: The four themes found in the empirical data were concluded to be thedecision-making in these procurement processes being affected by manystakeholders, a high trust on suppliers for information updates andsustainable responsibility, an existing knowledge gap on cellulose-based andlocally produced textiles and the challenges and opportunities surroundingthe regulation of sustainability in the contract terms in the publicprocurement of textiles. The procurement officials being in a leading or nonleadingposition did not show any statistically significant effect on theperception of the clarity in the relevant political directives and how thisinfluences the possibility to take sustainable action in the procurementprocess, nor on whether the short-term (lowest) price has a higher prioritythan the long-term (e.g. long-term societal and environmental costs) in theprocurement of textiles.Conclusion: The sustainable public procurement of textiles within the Swedish healthcaresector governed by the county councils and regions is characterized by ahigh level of organisational complexity including many global, regional andlocal stakeholders. The governing authorities as well as the procuringorganizations and suppliers show interest in implementing sustainableprocurement processes which is however aggravated by static contract terms,limited knowledge on novel textile materials and the perceived costs relatedto the procurement.

The care of church textiles in Sweden has been regulated by church order for almost 500 years and later by Swedish law. There is a common perception of their value as carriers of culture and history. This paper aims to study the textile competence of the people responsible for inventories and textiles in the parishes, what they see as the biggest challenges in caring for the textiles, and how the employees value these textiles as objects of cultural heritage. A questionnaire sent to the people responsible for inventories in four different dioceses shows that many of the people responsible for the textile objects have little or no specific textile competence. Few of the people caring for the textile objects today have practical textile education, while junior employees have to rely on lectures organized by the church or the local museum. These courses have been organized infrequently and there is a pressing need to raise the textile competence of new employees. Many parishes have old textiles such as chasubles and antependiums from the 18th century and even older ones that are used rarely, some once a year at most. Most of these textile objects can be considered museum objects, that the churches merely keep in store. The framework and recommendations issued by the authorities the Swedish National Heritage Board (Riksantikvarieämbetet) and the county administration (länsstyrelserna) lack practical advice and the surveillance on how these recommendations are followed in the parishes is practically non-existent. The care for these old, fragile objects is challenging as many churches are kept cold due to rising energy prices. The parishes answering the questionnaire are, however, reluctant to leave the textile objects for storage at a local museum, as there is a sense of them belonging to the church. By current Swedish law, the textile objects are also supposed to stay in the church where they historically belong. In a near future, the challenge of cost, space and knowledge will create a pressure to find other solutions for the care of the cultural heritage of the Swedish church textiles.