Ceramics, Textiles and the Tiwanaku Integration of Chile's "Norte Grande"In this paper we explore Tiwanaku's iconography of power and its role in integrating south-central Andean frontier areas such as the Azapa Valley and oasis of San Pedro de Atacama, in northern Chile. It is presumed that Tiwanaku's expansive processes, like the powers that maintained its central hierarchy and the strategies that integrated peripheral and ultra-peripheral areas with the center, were ideological and political. This ideological and political nature was expressed materially in the stone sculptures of Tiwanaku, and widely distributed in portable art objects that generated and integrated Tiwanaku's interaction sphere. This idea motivates a reexamination of collections from the nuclear and peripheral areas, including the extreme south of Peru, south-central Bolivia, and northern Chile. Focusing on Chile's Azapa Valley, and San Pedro de Atacama, the authors seek to determine from iconography and artifacts the degree of integration between center and periphery, in hegemonic and territorial terms. / En este trabajo se explora la iconografía del poder en Tiwanaku y su rol en la integración de zonas de frontera del área centro-sur andina, como lo son el valle de Azapa y San Pedro de Atacama, en el norte de Chile. Se asume que en el proceso expansivo de Tiwanaku, las sanciones que apoyaron la jerarquía central y las estrategias empleadas para integrar las zonas periféricas y ultraperiféricas al centro fueron de naturaleza ideológica y política, lo que se manifestaría materialmente en la iconografía que reproduce las imágenes de la litoescultura del lago, y que se distribuyó en objetos portátiles que integraron o generaron su esfera de interacción. Esta idea motivó la revisión de colecciones arqueológicas de las zonas nucleares y marginales de la esfera de influencia tiwanaku, comprendidas entre el extremo sur del Perú, centro-sur de Bolivia y norte de Chile. Aquí, en particular, los autores se referirán a los textiles y a la alfarería del valle de Azapa y de San Pedro de Atacama para, a través de las relaciones iconográficas y artefactuales, intentar determinar el grado de integración centro-periferia, ya sea en términos hegemónicos o territoriales.

Electronic textiles, or smart textiles, is a field that is growing due to the opportunities it provides. Textile integrated electronics enables soft, flexible, lightweight electronic devices that enable long term monitoring within the medical field. Pressure sensors is one device within this field that has been researched. A textile integrated pressure sensor enables monitoring of heart rate, muscle activity, posture, gait phases and finger movements. In this project a resistive pressure sensor has been produced using embroidery with the purpose of investigating how construction and design parameters influence the resistance-pressure relationship. The study consisted in different phases where in Phase I parameters such as fabric substrate, stitch length and yarn type was examined. Phase II investigated design parameters like electrode pattern design, sensor shape, trace distance and size. In the design phase a new electrode pattern and sensor shape was tested. Finally in Phase III a sensor matix and sensor chain was constructed in order to evaluate the possibility of obtaining touch location. The findings in this study showed that the shape, size and yarn type had the most distinct influence on the sensor performance in regards to the resistance-pressure relationship. In an additional recovery test the results indicated that both textile substrate and stitch length could influence the ability to recover to its original shape after applying cyclic pressure. It was also found that the new pattern design performed equally to the conventional pattern designs and at the same time reduced material consumption as well as the embroidery time. The sensor matrix and sensor chain could display a change in resistance when applying a weight at each sensing element, implying that touch location could be detected, but would need further development in construction before potential implementation.

Demuestra la viabilidad de la optimización de procesos en una tintorería con el objetivo de incrementar la producción manteniendo los estándares de calidad (sin afectar la apariencia y solidez) y reduciendo los costos. El tipo de investigación es aplicada explicativa, ya que se explora y describe el proceso de teñido reactivo para establecer una correlación entre las variables. La información que se presenta es lo más didáctica y practica posible buscando que sea de comprensión de todos. / Tesis

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Smarta textilier och e-textilier har, sedan de först började forskas på, haft ett potentiellt användningsområde inom sjukvården, för att användas inom långtidsövervakning av sjuka. Det största hindret som har upptäckts är, förutom att det finns vissa svårigheter med stabiliteten på signalerna från textilierna och att signalerna kan störas av brus, är att de har varit svåra att tvätta. De elektriskt ledande materialen har antagits förstörda av värmen, kemikalierna och det mekaniska arbetet från tvätten. Den här studien fokuserar på hur ledningsbanorna reagerar över lag på tvätt, och om det finns något samband mellan de olika mätmetoderna. Denna rapport testar två olika bindningar för att tillverka en stickad elektrisk ledningsbana, där en ledningsbana ligger exponerad och en ligger isolerad i bakgrundstyget. Flera olika bredder på ledningsbanan tillverkas för att undersöka om det finns någon skillnad mellan dem. Genom att testa resistansen på ledningsbanan, kontaktimpedansen mellan hud och elektrod, och böjstyvheten på fibrerna från det ledande garnet med hjälp av en FAVIMAT+ från TexTechno innan någon tvätt hade utförts, och sedan var femte tvätt upp till 30 tvättar, kan förändringen följas över en längre tid. Med de resultat som samlades in utfördes en ANOVA för varje mätmetod. Sedan utfördes flera korrelationstester, däribland SpearmanRho tester och även ett program för att anpassa en kurva till mätvärdena användes. De resultat som studien kom fram till pekar på att det inte finns något samband mellan ökningen av resistans och ökningen av kontaktimpedans. Resultaten från böjstyvheten var för brusiga för att några slutsatser skulle kunna dras. Det visar sig även att en bredare ledningsbana, och den bindning som isolerade ledningsbanan presterade bättre och hade en mindre ökning över tid än vad de smalare och exponerade ledningsbanorna hade. / Smart textiles and e-textiles have since they first started being researched had a potential to be used in the medical field to monitor sick people over a longer time. The biggest obstacle for the implementation of the smart textiles, except for the difficulty in getting a stable and clean signal, is the conductive yarns inability to handle being washed. The conductive yarn is thought to lose its conductivity due to the heat, chemicals and mechanical work it is exposed to during the wash. The focus of this study is how the conductive tracks react to washing, and if there is any correlation between the different methods of measuring. This report will test two different patterns for creating a knitted conductive track, one where the track will be exposed on the surface of the fabric, and one where it will be isolated between layers of the fabric. Different widths of the track will be tested to see if there is any difference between them. By measuring the resistance of the conductive track, the contact impedance between the skin and electrode and the bending stiffness of the fibers of the conductive yarn before any washes had been carried out, and then after every fifth wash, up to 30 washes, it was possible to track the changes over a longer period. With the results that were collected, an ANOVA was carried out for each of the testing methods. Thereafter several correlation tests were carried out, among others a SpearmanRho and a program that tried to fit a curve to the data points. The results that the study concluded were that there was no correlation between the increase in resistance and the increase of the contact impedance. The results from the bending stiffness were too inconclusive for any conclusions to be made. It also showed that a wider track and the pattern that isolated the track performed better than the thinner tracks and the pattern that exposed the track. The wider isolated track had lower increase of resistance over time that the thin exposed tracks had.

Mellan åren 2008 och 2021 har antalet benskörhetsfrakturer ökat med 30%, främst på grund av att antalet äldre har ökat. Osteoporos (benskörhet) är när benvävnaden blir mindre tät vilket i sin tur resulterar i att skelettet blir allt svagare. En av de vanligaste samt allvarligaste frakturerna till uppkomst av benskörhet sätter sig i höfter, där det varje år sker mellan 15 000– 16 000 frakturer. Höftskyddsbyxor kan beskrivas som ett par specialdesignade underbyxor med skyddande plattor placerade i byxan bilateralt längs höften för att täcka lårbenet. När ett par höftskyddsbyxor används på ett korrekt sätt kan risken minska med upp till 60% för att få en höftfraktur vid fall. Höftskyddsbyxor finns idag på marknaden men ändå väljer en del att inte bära dem. I litteraturen nämns det att vanliga orsaker till att höftskyddsbyxor inte används är att det finns ett missnöje när det gäller estetik, bekvämlighet och elasticitet. Litteraturen nämner även att för att avdöda mikroorganismer är det viktigt att textilen ska kunna tvättas i höga temperaturer. Studiens syfte är att undersöka möjligheten att producera material avsedda för höftskyddsbyxor utan beredningar som är bekväma, elastiska och bibehåller sin kvalitet efter upprepade tvättar i 60°C. Materialen som valts ut för studien omfattar olika kombinationer av cellulosafibrer, regenererade cellulosafibrer samt syntetiska fibrer. Sex tygprover jämfördes med varandra för att se om de mekaniska egenskaperna som identifierats; elasticitet, mekanisk hållfasthet, visuellt utseende och bekvämlighet efter tvätt, kan potentiellt optimeras. Miljöaspekter kring val av fibrer kommer även att diskuteras. Ett företag har lånat ut skyddsplattor till författarna av studien. Studiens resultat ger stöd för att material bestående av syntetiska fibrer presterade högst i materialundersökningen. Resultatet visade att tygprov två hade det högsta totala värdet av alla sex tygprover. Även om tygprovet hade högst värde i flest mätningar så var värdena inte i den utsträckning som hade förväntats. Resultatet påvisade att även om tygprovet fick högst resultat har det sannolikt inte de optimala egenskaperna för ett par höftskyddsbyxor som studien undersökte. Sammantaget kan resultatet av den här studien verka som en förstudie inför framtida studier inom produktutveckling av höftskyddsbyxor. / Between 2008 and 2021, the number of osteoporosis fractures increased by 30%, mainly due to an increase in the number of elderly people. Osteoporosis is when bone tissue becomes less dense, which results in the bones becoming weaker. One of the most common and serious causes of osteoporosis is fractures of the hips, with between 15 000 and 16 000 fractures occurring each year. Hip protectors can be described as a pair of specially designed underwear with protective plates placed in the trousers bilaterally along the hip to cover the femur. When used correctly, a pair of hip protectors can reduce the risk of sustaining a hip fracture in a fall by up to 60%. Hip protectors are currently available on the market, yet some people choose not to wear them. The literature mentions that common reasons for not using hip protectors are dissatisfaction with aesthetics, comfort and elasticity. The literature also mentions that in order to kill microorganisms, it is important that the textile can be washed at high temperatures. The aim of the study is to investigate the possibility of producing textile materials intended for hip protection trousers without preparations that are comfortable, elastic and maintain their quality after repeated washing at 60°C. The materials selected for the study include different combinations of cellulose fibres, regenerated cellulose fibres and synthetic fibres. Six fabric samples were compared to see if the mechanical properties identified; elasticity, mechanical strength, visual appearance and comfort after washing, can potentially be optimised. Environmental aspects of fibre selection will also be discussed. One company has lent protective plates to the authors of the study. The results of the study support that synthetic fibre materials performed best in the material survey. The results showed that fabric sample two had the highest total value of all six fabric samples. Although the fabric sample had the highest value in the most measurements, the values were not to the extent expected. The results showed that although the fabric sample scored highest, it is unlikely to have the optimum properties for a pair of hip protectors that the study investigated. Overall, the results of this study can serve as a preliminary study for future studies in product development of hip protection trousers.

This research has its basis in developments within the field of inductive powering and wireless power transfer, WPT, and more specifically one the branch within this field, which is called magnetic resonance coupling. This principle enables efficient power transfer from a transmitting unit to a receiving unit at a distance of some times the unit diameter. The developments within magnetic resonant coupling are together with the possibilities and challenges of today’s smart textile industry the starting point to investigate a novel textile-based product concept for WPT by combining both technologies. Multiple textile samples, consisting of cotton and electrically conductive copper yarns, were produced by weaving technique, additional assembling of electronic components were performed manually and several measurements were carried out to investigate the sample characteristics and the sample performance in terms of power transfer. The produced samples showed to behave similarly to conventional inductors and were able to transfer power over some distance.

Electrically conductive or electro-active fibers are the key components of smart and interactive textiles, which could be used in medical, sports, energy, and military applications in the near future. The functionalization of high-performance textile yarns/fibers with conjugated polymers can produce conductive fibers with better electro-mechanical properties, which is difficult with commonly used spinning techniques. In this thesis work, textile-based conductive yarns/fibers were prepared by coating viscose and polyester (PET) yarns with the conjugated polymer PEDOT. For coating purposes, an efficient technique called chemical vapor deposition (CVD) was used, which is a solventless technique and can produce PEDOT polymer layers with high conductivity values. The polymerization of EDOT monomer vapors and coating of oxidant (FeCl3 or FepTS) enriched viscose and PET yarns took place simultaneously. The PEDOT-coated viscose and polyester yarns showed relatively high conductivity values, which could be sufficient for many electronic applications. The polymerization process and the quality of PEDOT polymer strongly depends on different reaction conditions. In this research work, the impact of most of these reaction parameters on the electrical, mechanical, and thermal properties of PEDOT-coated conductive yarns was considered separately. Under specific reaction conditions, it was found that viscose fibers were successfully coated with PEDOT polymer and showed rather high electrical conductivity (≥ 15 S/cm). However, due to the acid hydrolysis of viscose fibers in FeCl3 solutions, the mechanical properties were drastically reduced. In order to improve the mechanical properties of conductive yarns, a relatively stable and chemical-resistant substrate (PET) was coated with PEDOT polymer. Comparative studies between PEDOT-coated viscose and PET conductive yarns showed that the electrical and mechanical properties were enhanced by changing the substrate material. Later on, PEDOT-coated conductive fibers were treated with silicone elastomer solution and due to the thin silicone layers, the hydrophobic properties, flexibility, and durability of coated yarns was improved. Furthermore, a novel electrical resistance-measuring setup was developed, which can be used not only for fibers but also for fabric structures. The electrical characterization of PEDOT-coated conductive yarns showed that it can be used effectively for sensitive fibers without damaging their surface morphology. Finally, the use of conductive yarns as stretch sensors was evaluated. For this purpose, small rectangular knitted patches of conductive yarns were prepared and then the change in electrical resistance values at different extension percentages (5–50%) was investigated. The constant variations in electrical resistance values at different extension and relaxation cycles for longer periods of time revealed that the conductive yarns produced have the potential to be used as stretch sensors for monitoring of vital signs in medical and sports applications. / <p>Thesis for the Degree of Doctor of Philosophy to be presented on March 08, 2013, 10.00 in KA-salen, Kemigården 4, Chalmers University of Technology, Gothenburg</p>

<p>U disertaciji je prikazan postupak razvoja modela praćenja procesnih parametara štampe tekstilnih materijala koji za rezultat ima kvalitetnu i postojanu štampu sa upravljivim i predvidivim procesom. U radu su date osnove praćenja procesnih parametara štampe tekstilnih materijala. Pratio se uticaj povećanja broja nanosa boje na različitim tekstilnim materijalima, i njihov uticaj na otpornost odštampanih uzoraka na svetlost, pranje, toplotno dejstvo i trljanje što je osnova razvoja modela disertacije.</p> / <p>The dissertation presents development of the process parameters monitoring model for textile printing which provides high-quality and consistent printing with controllable and predictable process parameters. The thesis provides the basis for monitoring of textile printing process parameters such as influence of number of ink layers printed on light fastness, washing fastness, scrubbing and thermal treatment various textile materials.</p>

<p>U disertaciji su predstavljena istraživanja uticajnih parametara<br />digitalne štampe na toplotna svojstva odjevnih predmeta, pri čemu su<br />kao parametri procesa štampe ispitani uticaji različitog broja<br />nanosa boje u štampi i različite tonske pokrivenosti. Odštampani<br />uzorci podvrgnuti su ispitivanjima toplotnih karakteristika<br />štampanih tekstilnih materijala. Na bazi analize izabranih<br />parametara razvijen je model toplotnih svojstava štampanih odjevnih<br />predmeta koji ima poseban značaj za predviđanje toplotno fiziološke<br />udobnosti odjeće tokom upotrebe.</p> / <p>У дисертацији су представљена истраживања утицајних параметара<br />дигиталне штампе на топлотна својства одјевних предмета, при чему су<br />као параметри процеса штампе испитани утицаји различитог броја<br />наноса боје у штампи и различите тонске покривености. Одштампани<br />узорци подвргнути су испитивањима топлотних карактеристика<br />штампаних текстилних материјала. На бази анализе изабраних<br />параметара развијен је модел топлотних својстава штампаних одјевних<br />предмета који има посебан значај за предвиђање топлотно физиолошке<br />удобности одјеће током употребе.</p>