I weave figurative tapestries, working with themes regarding our relationship to the wild, both in nature and ourselves. I dye my yarns with mushrooms and plants I pick in the forest. I go through this trouble because I want the material to carry a story within itself, I see it as giving it life. This method makes the work divided in three main steps: the foraging, the dyeing, and the weaving.

The problem of investigating the possibilities of direct design transfer from plant to fabric and paper was divided into two parts. The first part is concerned with the exploration of the mechanics of the transfer. Invloved in this process are the technique of manipulating tools, of selecting suitable fabrics and paper, of determining chemicals that would facilitate the printing process and of experimenting with ways to preserve the finished design. The evaluation of the usability and durability of the finished print was based on a series of color fastness tests. The second part of this problem is concerned with the exploration of the design possibilities of the medium. The plants were tested and rated according to their visual attributes relative to the elements of design. Combinations of the successful plant prints were used to produce variations of pattern and texture. The results of the investigation were evaluated to determine the versatility of the medium as a design tool and the usefulness of the technique as a practical printing method

Master of Science / Apparel, Textiles, and Interior Design / Sherry J. Haar / This study compared the colorfastness of potassium aluminum sulfate (PAS) mordanted and nonmordanted 30/2 wool yarn, dyed with black walnut (Juglans Nigra), Osage orange (Maclura pomifera), and eastern redcedar (Juniperus virginiana) sawdust. Information from this study is intended to inform natural dye artisans and to increase the profitability of sawdust for farmers, ranchers, and mill owners who would otherwise find little use for this byproduct of timber manufacturing. Pre-testing ensured dyeings of visually comparable color depth and dye concentrations were pre-tested to find a standard depth of shade between the same dye on PAS mordanted and nonmordanted wool yarns. Tests for colorfastness to light, laundering and staining were performed in accordance to AATCC test methods. Resulting colors for exposed and unexposed specimens were rated using CIE L* a* b* values and AATCC gray scale for color change. GLM Anovas and two-sample t-tests were used to statistically analyze CIE L* a* b* values. As expected, findings indicated that dye absorption was improved with the use of a PAS mordant, especially for black walnut and eastern redcedar. For yarns premordanted with PAS the dyewoods became yellower. A PAS mordant slightly improved colorfastness to light for black walnut and eastern redcedar, but did not influence Osage orange which had an unexpected color change from bright yellow to warm brown after exposure to light. Colorfastness to laundering was slightly improved with PAS for Osage orange, while black walnut and eastern red cedar had slightly less color change without the mordant. This research was supported by the Agricultural Research Experiment Station and Kansas State University.

Orientadores: Melissa Gurgel Adeodato Vieira, Sandra Cristina dos Santos Rocha / Dissertação (mestrado) - Universidade Estadual de Campinas, Faculdade de Engenharia Química / Made available in DSpace on 2018-08-21T04:23:24Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 LopezGonzalez_NestorDavid_M.pdf: 6381922 bytes, checksum: e497b1236a95bb6095b1c33957146b02 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2012 / Resumo: O papel está presente em muitas das atividades do cotidiano que vão desde usos sanitários, passando pelas embalagens até fins educativos. Este material que teve sua origem há quase 2000 anos, continua sua evolução na procura de alternativas limpas para seu reaproveitamento. Novos processos de reciclagem, secagem e a incorporação de materiais alternativos para melhorar as propriedades do papel fazem desta área de pesquisa a base para a criação de novas tecnologias e produtos com apelo ambiental. Neste contexto, este trabalho teve como objetivo a avaliação da reutilização de papel de escritório na forma de papel cartão com adição de extratos corantes naturais Carmim de cochonilha, Cúrcuma e Urucum, implementando um processo de destintagem dos papéis a serem reciclados e secando o papel em um secador convectivo em escala laboratorial para obter papel cartão artesanal colorido. Para isto, foi determinada uma formulação para cada uma das três polpas a serem tingidas com os corantes naturais e construídas as curvas de secagem para diferentes condições de secagem. Efetuou-se uma análise comparativa da qualidade dos papéis obtidos em diferentes condições de secagem e avaliou-se a degradação da cor dos papéis obtidos sob diferentes condições de iluminação. O estudo da secagem mostrou que as polpas fabricadas com cada um dos três corantes apresentaram processos de secagem equivalentes apesar de ter formulações diferentes. Além disso, uma análise estatística mostrou que a velocidade e a temperatura do ar de secagem influenciam positivamente o processo, afetando a duração deste. Na avaliação da qualidade dos papéis verificou-se que esta pode ser afetada por variações nas condições de secagem. Uma menor qualidade foi obtida em papéis secos sob condições mais drásticas de velocidade e temperatura do ar. Os testes de colorimetria realizados nas amostras evidenciaram que as condições de secagem podem modificar a saturação das cores dos papéis, gerando diferenças colorimétricas nos papéis obtidos e apresentando cinéticas de degradação diferentes para cada papel fabricado. Os extratos corantes de Carmim de cochonilha, Urucum e Cúrcuma apresentaram boa estabilidade no teste de abrigo à luz, mas nos testes realizados com luz ultravioleta e fluorescente a estabilidade das cores foi baixa. O carmim de cochonilha se apresentou como o corante com maior estabilidade e poder tintorial. Os corantes naturais analisados nesta pesquisa mostraram potencial para serem utilizados na fabricação de papéis reciclados artesanais / Abstract: The paper is present in many everyday activities from sanitary uses, through the packaging until educational purposes. This material was originated almost 2000 years ago, and continues its evolution in the search of environmental alternatives to be reused. New processes to recycling, drying and the incorporation of alternative materials carry out an important role for the creation of new products and new technologies with environmental appeal. In this context, this work aimed the evaluation of office paper in the form of cardboard with the addition of natural extracts dyes such as Cochineal Carmine, Turmeric and Annatto, using a de-inking process of paper and drying in a convective-scale laboratory dryer for obtain a colorful handmade paper card. For this, a formulation was determined for each of the three paper pulp to be dyed with natural dyes, the drying curves were analyzed for different drying conditions, moreover a comparative analysis of the quality of the paper obtained under different conditions of drying was accomplished and the degradation of color paper obtained under different lighting conditions was evaluated. The study showed that drying of the paper pulp manufactured for each of the three dyes present equivalent drying processes, despite that these had different formulations; in addition, a statistical analysis showed that the air velocity and temperature of the drying air have a positively influence in the process. In the study of quality of paper, it has been demonstrated that variations in the drying conditions affects the quality of paper, such as reducing these with the increase in velocity and air temperature. The colorimetric test showed that the drying conditions can change the color saturation of the paper, causing colorimetric differences in the papers obtained and having different degradation kinetics for each paper produced. The extracts of cochineal carmine, Annatto and Turmeric dyes showed good stability under the test of light; however, the stability for the test performed with ultraviolet and fluorescent light. The results using cochineal carmine dye presented greater stability and tinctorial power. Natural dyes tested in this study showed potential to be used in the manufacture of handmade recycled paper / Mestrado / Processos em Tecnologia Química / Mestre em Engenharia Química

Cette thèse est divisée en trois parties. La première traite la synthèse de la polyaniline (PANI), un polymère conducteur de trou, utilisé dans plusieurs applications. En variant les quantités du monomère et de l’oxydant tout en fixant leur rapport molaire à 1:1,25, et en ajoutant de l’oxyde de magnésium, des aiguilles et des nouvelles structures semblables aux échinides sont formées. Le mécanisme de formation des structures unidimensionnelles est expliqué à l’aide de la théorie des multicouches. La deuxième partie est consacrée à la fabrication des monocouches photovoltaïques à faible coût en se basant sur le principe de fonctionnement des cellules à pigment photosensible (en anglais DSSC, Dye-Sensitized Solar Cell). En 1991, Grätzel a réintroduit l’effet photo-électrochimique en développant la première DSSC, une des cellules solaire troisième génération, formée d’un film de TiO2 (photo-anode) pigmenté à l’aide d’un colorant et d’un électrolyte qui sert à régénérer le pigment oxydé. Malgré leur faible coût, les DSSCs font face à de nombreux problèmes tels que le coût élevé du pigment, la fuite de l’électrolyte, la sublimation du couple I-/I3- à travers I2, etc. Afin de résoudre ces problèmes, des monocouches photovoltaïques ont été développées. Des composites formés de PANI et TiO2 sont la base de ces dispositifs nouvelle génération. La polymérisation in-situ de l’aniline en présence des nanoparticules de TiO2 conduit à une forte interaction entre la PANI et les particules de TiO2 où une structure « core (TiO2)/shell (PANI) » existe dans le composite. Dans le dispositif photovoltaïque basé sur le composite PANI-TiO2, PANI est considérée comme pigment à la photo-anode et comme poly-électrolyte plus profondément dans le composite. En plus, des textiles fabriqués utilisant ces composites photo-génèrent une tension de 0,6 V et un courant de 1 A/m2 lorsque l’éthanol est injecté dans le dispositif. Une nouvelle architecture a été développée qui sert à améliorer la performance de la cellule et en même temps stocker l’énergie pour des utilisations ultérieures. La dernière partie est consacrée à la fabrication des DSSCs basées sur les pigments naturels. L’anthocyane, un pigment naturel halochromique responsable de la couleur rouge dans les plantes, a été extrait du chou rouge et utilisé pour pigmenter les films de TiO2. Cette propriété se traduit par la fabrication des DSSCs de différentes couleurs et comportement photovoltaïque. Avec un pH égal à 0, une Vco et une Jcc de 520 mV et 185 μA/cm2 sont respectivement obtenues prouvant la possibilité d’utiliser le chou rouge comme source de pigment à très faible coût des DSSCs. / This thesis is divided in three parts. The first one deals with the synthesis of polyaniline (PANI), a hole conducting polymer, used in many applications. By varying the quantities of the monomer and the oxidant while fixing the molar ratio at 1:1.25, and by adding magnesium oxide, novel echinoid-like and PANI needles were formed. The formation mechanism of the 1D structures is explained using the multi-layer theory. The second section is devoted for the fabrication of low cost single-layered photovoltaic devices based on the working principle of dye-sensitized solar cells (DSSCs). In 1991, Grätzel reintroduced the photo-electrochemical effect by developing the first DSSC, one of the third generation solar cells, formed of a TiO2 film (photoanode) sensitized using a dye and an electrolyte regenerating the excited dye. Despite their low cost, DSSCs face many problems such as the high cost of the dye, leaking of the electrolyte, sublimation of the I-/I3- through I2, etc. To solve these problems a single layer photovoltaic device has been developed. Composites formed of PANI, and TiO2 are the basis of the new generation photovoltaics. The in-situ polymerization of aniline inside a titania solution results in a strong interaction between PANI and TiO2 particles where a core (TiO2)/shell (PANI) structure exists inside the composite. In the single-layered photovoltaic device based on PANI-TiO2 composite, PANI is considered as sensitizer at the photoanode and as polyelectrolyte deeper inside the composite layer. In addition, textiles fabricated using such composites generated a voltage of 0.6 V and a current of 1 A/m2 when ethanol is injected in the solar cell. A new architecture has been developed to enhance the performance of the device and at the same time to store the converted energy for later use. The final part is devoted to the fabrication of DSSCs based on natural dyes. Anthocyanin; a halochromic natural dye responsible for the red color in plants, extracted from red cabbage was used to sensitize TiO2 films. This property results in the fabrication of DSSCs with different colors and photovoltaic behavior. At a pH equal to 0, a Voc and Jsc of 520 mV and 185 μA/cm2 were respectively recorded proving the possibility of using red cabbages as a very low cost dye source for DSSCs.

Trata-se de estudo de caso a partir da abordagem do design de superfícies têxteis sobre a tecelagem manual, baseada em corantes naturais do Cerrado, na região de Carmo de Rio Claro-FURNAS. Observa-se, nesse contexto, uma grande aplicação da tecnologia tradicional do tear manual aliado ao uso de fibras. Esse saber-fazer,transmitido oralmente, representa fração significativa da economia regional e, em grande medida, a identidade cultural nesse contexto. No entanto, observa-se a perda do conhecimento específico relacionado ao uso de corantes naturais baseado em vegetais do Cerrado, apesar de espécies existentes nesse contexto. Assim, como objetivo geral, pretende-se estudar e analisar os corantes naturais nativos dessa região e suas respectivas aplicações com vistas ao desenvolvimento dessa produção baseada em tecelagem manual, processo fundamental para a população da região e experiência importante como referência em políticas públicas locais e regionais / This is a case study from the design approach of textile surfaces on handloom weaving, natural dyes based in the Cerrado region of Carmo Rio Claro-FURNAS. It is observed that context a major application of traditional handloom technology coupled with the use of fibers.This know-how, transmitted orally, represents significant fraction of the regional economy and to a large extent, cultural identity in this context. However, there is the loss of specific knowledge related to the use of natural dyes based on the Cerrado vegetables, although extant species in this context. As general objective, we intend to study and analyze the natural dyes natives of this region and their applications with a view to developing this production based on manual weaving, a process critical to the region\'s population as a reference and important experience in local and regional public policies

Trata-se de estudo de caso a partir da abordagem do design de superfícies têxteis sobre a tecelagem manual, baseada em corantes naturais do Cerrado, na região de Carmo de Rio Claro-FURNAS. Observa-se, nesse contexto, uma grande aplicação da tecnologia tradicional do tear manual aliado ao uso de fibras. Esse saber-fazer,transmitido oralmente, representa fração significativa da economia regional e, em grande medida, a identidade cultural nesse contexto. No entanto, observa-se a perda do conhecimento específico relacionado ao uso de corantes naturais baseado em vegetais do Cerrado, apesar de espécies existentes nesse contexto. Assim, como objetivo geral, pretende-se estudar e analisar os corantes naturais nativos dessa região e suas respectivas aplicações com vistas ao desenvolvimento dessa produção baseada em tecelagem manual, processo fundamental para a população da região e experiência importante como referência em políticas públicas locais e regionais / This is a case study from the design approach of textile surfaces on handloom weaving, natural dyes based in the Cerrado region of Carmo Rio Claro-FURNAS. It is observed that context a major application of traditional handloom technology coupled with the use of fibers.This know-how, transmitted orally, represents significant fraction of the regional economy and to a large extent, cultural identity in this context. However, there is the loss of specific knowledge related to the use of natural dyes based on the Cerrado vegetables, although extant species in this context. As general objective, we intend to study and analyze the natural dyes natives of this region and their applications with a view to developing this production based on manual weaving, a process critical to the region\'s population as a reference and important experience in local and regional public policies

This thesis paper reflects upon the costume design process taken by Mikayla Reid to explore how color choice and application within designs can help create storybook characters off the page and onto the stage. This concept is explored through the costume designs for the opera The Cunning Little Vixen, a production theoretically staged at the Alice Busch Opera Theater for the Glimmerglass Festival in New York. The paper discusses Reid’s attempt to create designs that still feel like watercolor illustrations, even when realized in physical garments. It follows her process as she tests different dye techniques in search for what produces the most effective color application. This paper also breaks down each step taken while constructing the main character, the Vixen, through the build, fittings, and color application.

This thesis sets out to investigate the changing social significance of the hand-block printed and resist-dyed cottons of Rajasthan. Once a vital part of the region’s everyday rural textile and dress traditions, communicating information about its wearers and demonstrating the craftsmanship of its makers, today block printed textiles are produced primarily for export and tourist markets. In the space of just a few decades the growing effects of globalisation have wrought irrevocable change upon this traditional craft. Under the pressures of new market forces, modern hand block printed textiles bear little resemblance to their traditional counterparts. Drawing on an ethnographic perspective in general, and an ethnomethodological perspective in particular, the main objective of this thesis is to develop a deeper understanding of traditional hand block printed and resist-dyed textiles – with particular focus on the modernisation of traditional forms of hand block printing in Rajasthan, and the various strategies and experiences which the craftspeople have undertaken to deal with the changes to the market for their products. Using the recent history of block printed cloth production in Rajasthan, as told by local artisans, it explores the manner in which such phenomena as modernisation and globalisation are embodied by shifts in production technology, design aesthetics, and market forces. In order to explore the rural roots and chart the dramatic recent modernisation of the craft this thesis identifies and documents the range of textiles traditionally made by the region’s hereditary communities of cloth printers and dyers, and investigates their role in the projection of identity, exploring the changing communicative function of these textiles, notably with the rise of synthetic fabrics, among the rural communities of Rajasthan. In doing so, this thesis investigates how the consumption of hand block printed textiles has changed over the past forty years and considers the impact of the growth of export and tourism on traditions of cloth printing in the region. It is a socially situated study, based on extensive firsthand fieldwork with the Chhipa community of hereditary cloth printers, making use of ethnography, photography, and personal experience of textile dyeing, printing and design. By developing methodologies based on the detailed documentation of the technologies, materials and processes involved in hand block printing this thesis seeks to update and expand upon the existing literature on the craft by providing and analysing contemporary accounts of family traditions and modern developments in use by current generations of artisans. In doing so this thesis also contributes to current discourse on the preservation of craft knowledge as a form of intangible cultural heritage. The study is primarily located within the field of Indian textile and dress studies. It contributes to contemporary ethnographies of textile crafts through the detailed analysis of print and dye technologies, and, by also considering the meanings and values of block printed cloth as clothing, adds to the literature on the social role of textiles and dress with a regionally-specific focus on the role of pattern and colour. By focussing on the communicative functions of pattern and cloth, it also enhances cross-disciplinary attentions to regional identities and intangible cultural heritage. Finally it engages with the very local processes of globalisation and the contemporary values of handcrafted cloth.

My thesis deals with dye plants and possibilities of their use. The first part contains classification of dye plants and history of their use. In the next part, there is a summary of dye plants and colors we can get from them. Methodology of coloring is also introduced. At the end, there are botanic parameters, environment needs and cultivation methods of eight selected dye plants. The thesis include database of dye plants in electronic form.