Structural designs barely consider the dynamic scenario of a well-developed impinging wave hitting the structure. The usual area of focus is on static and stability factors (e.g. drag, inertia, resistive forces related to weight, buoyancy, sliding etc). Even the "Factor of Safety" which is regularly used in designs to account for unknown and/or unforeseen situations which might occur implies a degree of uncertainty about the dynamic scenario of breaking waves in the coastal environment. In the present study the hydrodynamics of a coastal structure-turbulent bore interaction was studied by examination (two-dimensional) of the singular case of a plunging breaking wave forming a well developed turbulent bore which impacted on a model sea wall structure. The turbulent bore impact event was found to display similar characteristics to the impact event of other wave shapes, in particular that of a plunging breaker. Examination of the impact event confirmed the conversion of nearly all horizontal velocity to vertical velocity during the "flip through" event. In accordance with theoretical expectations the location of maximum pressure was found to occur just below the still water level (SWL). Resulting pressure data in the present study consisted of two blunt spikes as opposed to the "church-roof" (high spike) shape seen in other results. The shape of the pressure data was attributed to the following: firstly, to the initial impact of the protruding jet of the breaking wave which causes the first maxima, secondly, to the sensor encountering the bulk of the entrapped air hence causing the drop in pressure between the blunt spikes and lastly, to the inherent hydrostatic pressure combined with the compression of the entrapped air bubbles, by the subsequent forward motion of the water within the wave, which causes the second maxima. The point of maximum pressure was found to always be within the second maxima. Observation of the turbulent bore-structure interaction showed that the consequential maximum pressure was a direct result of the compression of entrapped air by the weight of the water in the wave as it continued forward onto the structure combined with the inherent hydrostatic pressure of the wave. The project was conducted in an attempt to contribute to the vast knowledge of coastal structure-wave interactions and to add to the understanding of the physics and characteristics of breaking waves. Whilst numerous studies and experiments have been carried out on the phenomenon of breaking waves by previous researchers the current project highlights the advent of new equipment and technological advances in existing methods.

No description available.

An estimated 10% of the world's population lives in low-lying coastal regions, which are vulnerable to storm surge and waves capable of causing loss of lives and billions of dollars in damage to coastal infrastructure. Among the most vulnerable coastlines are barrier islands, which often act as the first line of defense against storms for the mainland coast. In this dissertation, the physical damage to a developed barrier island (Bay Head, NJ, USA) caused by erosion during Hurricane Sandy (2012) is evaluated using the numerical model, XBeach. Three main objectives of this work are to evaluate the wave-force reducing capabilities of a buried seawall, the effects of bay surge on morphological change and the effectiveness of adaptation strategies to rising sea levels. According to simulation results, a buried seawall located beneath the nourished dunes in Bay Head reduced wave attack by a factor of 1.7 compared to locations without a seawall. The structure also prevented major erosion by blocking bay surge from inundating dunes from the backside, as observed in locations not fronted with a seawall. Altering the timing and magnitude of bay storm surge, the buried seawall continued to protect the island from catastrophic erosion under all conditions except for a substantial increase in bay surge. However, in the absence of a seawall, the morpho- logical response was highly dependent on bay surge levels with respect to ocean side surge. Compared to the damage sustained by the island during Hurricane Sandy, greater erosion was observed on the island for an increase in bay surge magnitude or when peak bay surge occurred after peak ocean surge. Considering sea level rise, which affects bay and ocean surge levels, adaptation strategies were evaluated on the protection afforded to the dune system and backbarrier. Of the sea level rise scenarios and adaptation strategies considered, raising the dune and beach protected the island under moderate rises in sea level, but exacerbated backbarrier erosion for the most extreme scenario. Although an extreme strategy, raising the island is the only option considered that protected the island from catastrophic erosion under low, moderate and extreme sea level rise. / Ph. D.

No description available.

Currently, the accurate prediction of the impact of an extreme wave on infrastructure located near shore is difficult to assess. There is a lack of established methods to accurately quantify these impacts. Extreme waves, such as tsunamis generate, through breaking, extremely powerful hydraulic bores that impact and significantly damage coastal structures and buildings located close to the shoreline. The damage induced by such hydraulic bores is often due to structural failure. Examples of devastating coastal disasters are the 2004 Indian Ocean Tsunami, 2005 Hurricane Katrina and most recently, the 2011 Tohoku Japan Tsunami. As a result, more advanced research is needed to estimate the magnitude of forces exerted on structures by such bores. This research presents results of a numerical model based on the Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics (SPH) method which is used to simulate the impact of extreme hydrodynamic forces on shore protection walls. Typically, fluids are modeled numerically based on a Lagrangian approach, an Eulerian approach or a combination of the two. Many of the common problems that arise from using more traditional techniques can be avoided through the use of SPH-based models. Such challenges include the model computational efficiency in terms of complexity of implementation. The SPH method allows water particles to be individually modeled, each with their own characteristics, which then accurately depicts the behavior and properties of the flow field. An open source code, known as SPHysics, was used to run the simulations presented in this thesis. Several cases analysed consist of hydraulic bores impacting a flat vertical wall as well as a sloping seawall. The analysis includes comparisons of the numerical results with published experimental data. The model is shown to accurately reproduce the formation of solitary waves as well as their propagation and breaking. The impacting bore profiles as well as the resulting pressures are also efficiently simulated using the model.

Galveston Island, Texas has been experiencing high rates of erosion in recent years, spawning an interest in developing complex beach management programs. However, before any effective management project can be implemented we must understand all of the processes that control the shoreface. It is only recently that scientists have begun to recognize the importance of the role that the geologic framework plays on the coastal evolution of the shoreline. In this region, it is the antecedent geology as well as the anthropogenic obstructions which are the key factors controlling the formation of the modern shoreface. This study defines the extents to which these antecedent and anthropogenic factors influence the shoreface as well as refines the geologic interpretations offshore of Galveston Island. Using sidescan sonar, CHIRP seismic sonar, multibeam bathymetry data and sediment cores, the shoreface and subsurface geology were modeled. It was determined that the thickness, extent and slope of the modern sediment in the nearshore environment is controlled by the topography of the Beaumont Clay, a consolidated clay deposited during the Pleistocene. Anthropogenic obstructions, including the Galveston Seawall, groin and jetty system, have changed the sediment transport patterns in the region and have created a system of erosion and accretion not only along the shoreline, but for the entire length of the shoreface.

Currently, the accurate prediction of the impact of an extreme wave on infrastructure located near shore is difficult to assess. There is a lack of established methods to accurately quantify these impacts. Extreme waves, such as tsunamis generate, through breaking, extremely powerful hydraulic bores that impact and significantly damage coastal structures and buildings located close to the shoreline. The damage induced by such hydraulic bores is often due to structural failure. Examples of devastating coastal disasters are the 2004 Indian Ocean Tsunami, 2005 Hurricane Katrina and most recently, the 2011 Tohoku Japan Tsunami. As a result, more advanced research is needed to estimate the magnitude of forces exerted on structures by such bores. This research presents results of a numerical model based on the Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics (SPH) method which is used to simulate the impact of extreme hydrodynamic forces on shore protection walls. Typically, fluids are modeled numerically based on a Lagrangian approach, an Eulerian approach or a combination of the two. Many of the common problems that arise from using more traditional techniques can be avoided through the use of SPH-based models. Such challenges include the model computational efficiency in terms of complexity of implementation. The SPH method allows water particles to be individually modeled, each with their own characteristics, which then accurately depicts the behavior and properties of the flow field. An open source code, known as SPHysics, was used to run the simulations presented in this thesis. Several cases analysed consist of hydraulic bores impacting a flat vertical wall as well as a sloping seawall. The analysis includes comparisons of the numerical results with published experimental data. The model is shown to accurately reproduce the formation of solitary waves as well as their propagation and breaking. The impacting bore profiles as well as the resulting pressures are also efficiently simulated using the model.

Currently, the accurate prediction of the impact of an extreme wave on infrastructure located near shore is difficult to assess. There is a lack of established methods to accurately quantify these impacts. Extreme waves, such as tsunamis generate, through breaking, extremely powerful hydraulic bores that impact and significantly damage coastal structures and buildings located close to the shoreline. The damage induced by such hydraulic bores is often due to structural failure. Examples of devastating coastal disasters are the 2004 Indian Ocean Tsunami, 2005 Hurricane Katrina and most recently, the 2011 Tohoku Japan Tsunami. As a result, more advanced research is needed to estimate the magnitude of forces exerted on structures by such bores. This research presents results of a numerical model based on the Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics (SPH) method which is used to simulate the impact of extreme hydrodynamic forces on shore protection walls. Typically, fluids are modeled numerically based on a Lagrangian approach, an Eulerian approach or a combination of the two. Many of the common problems that arise from using more traditional techniques can be avoided through the use of SPH-based models. Such challenges include the model computational efficiency in terms of complexity of implementation. The SPH method allows water particles to be individually modeled, each with their own characteristics, which then accurately depicts the behavior and properties of the flow field. An open source code, known as SPHysics, was used to run the simulations presented in this thesis. Several cases analysed consist of hydraulic bores impacting a flat vertical wall as well as a sloping seawall. The analysis includes comparisons of the numerical results with published experimental data. The model is shown to accurately reproduce the formation of solitary waves as well as their propagation and breaking. The impacting bore profiles as well as the resulting pressures are also efficiently simulated using the model.

Thesis (MScEng)--Stellenbosch University, 2013. / ENGLISH ABSTRACT: The Strand is located within False Bay and frequently encounters large quantities of wave overtopping over the coastal defences. This results in the damage of property and infrastructure and causes streets to be flooded. Physical modelling tests were done by a consultancy firm to determine a solution by making use of a recurve structure at the back of the beach. This study is an expansion of the previous physical modelling that was done and focuses on several factors that were not tested by the consultancy firm that could have an influence on the overtopping rate and provide additional information on the recurve design. These tests were: (i) the effectiveness of the proposed recurve wall design in reducing overtopping was compared to a vertical wall; (ii) the influence that modifications to the beach profile such as the beach slope, beach width and beach level have on the overtopping rate; and (iii) the sensitivity of overtopping to changes in wave period was tested. The information gathered from these tests was used to propose a possible solution for the Strand. Numerical modelling was done with Delft3D-Wave to determine the wave height at the back of the beach using a nested grid. The waves at the Strand are depth limited and therefore very sensitive to changes in water level. By altering the beach level the model showed how the significant wave height at the back of the beach changes. First estimates of overtopping were determined using the relevant empirical calculations from the EuroTop Manual 2007 for a vertical seawall. No estimate could be made for the recurve wall since it did not fall in the valid range of the equations. From the physical modelling it was found that the overtopping reduced significantly from a vertical to a recurve seawall by a factor of about 50% depending on the wall height. All the prediction methods tested proved to be accurate in estimating the overtopping when the ratio of freeboard to significant wave height was ≤1.83. For non-breaking wave conditions the beach profiles that were gently sloped (1:50) and wide produced more overtopping than the beach profiles that were steep (1:10) and narrow. Increasing the beach level only decreased the overtopping if the water depth was shallow enough to cause the waves to break before they reached the back of the beach. Overtopping was found to increase with longer wave periods until the wave period became too long and the waves broke offshore which resulted in the overtopping decreasing. Possible solutions to overtopping were proposed based on two beach levels and the implementation of a recurve seawall. Revised crest levels for the wall were made along the length of the beach for both the 1:20 and 1:100 year water levels. / AFRIKAANSE OPSOMMING: Die Strand is in Valsbaai geleë en ervaar dikwels baie oorspoeling deur golwe bo-oor kusverdedigingswerke. Dit lei tot skade aan eiendom sowel as aan infrastruktuur en veroorsaak dat strate oorstroom. Fisiese modelleringstoetse is deur ’n konsultasiefirma gedoen om ’n oplossing te probeer vind deur van ’n teruggebuigde struktuur aan die agterkant van die strand gebruik te maak. Hierdie studie is ’n uitbreiding van die vorige fisiese modellering wat gedoen is en fokus op verskeie faktore wat nie deur die konsultasiefirma getoets is nie. Dit kan moontlik ’n invloed op die oorspoelingstempo hê en verskaf bykomende inligting oor die ontwerp van die terugbuiging. Hierdie toetse is: (i) die doeltreffendheid van die voorgestelde ontwerp van die teruggebuigde strandmuur in die vermindering van oorspoeling word vergelyk met ’n vertikale muur; (ii) die invloed wat veranderinge aan die strandprofiel soos die helling van die strand, die wydte van die strand asook die strandvlak op die oorspoelingstempo het; en (iii) die sensitiwiteit van oorspoeling op veranderinge in golfperiode is getoets. Die inligting wat uit hierdie toetse verkry is, word gebruik om ’n moontlike oplossing vir die Strand voor te stel. Numeriese modellering is met Delft3D-Wave gedoen om die golfhoogte aan die agterkant van die strand vas te stel deur van ’n genestelde ruitenet gebruik te maak. Die golwe by die Strand word deur diepte beperk en is dus baie sensitief vir veranderinge in die watervlak. Deur die strandvlakke te verander het die model getoon hoe die betekenisvolle golfhoogte aan die agterkant van die strand verander. Die eerste beramings van oorspoeling is bepaal deur van die relevante empiriese berekenings uit die EuroTop-handleiding 2007 vir ’n vertikale strandmuur gebruik te maak. Daar kon geen beraming vir die teruggebuigde muur gemaak word nie aangesien dit nie binne die geldige bereik van die vergelykings val nie. Uit die fisiese modellering is daar vasgestel dat oorspoeling noemenswaardig met ’n gemiddeld van ongeveer 50% verminder is, afhangend van die muurhoogte. Al die voorspellingmetodes wat getoets is was akkuraat in die beraming van die oorspoeling wanneer die verhouding van vryboord tot betekenisvolle golfhoogte ≤1.83 was. Vir nie-brekende golftoestande het strandprofiele met ’n lae helling (1:50) en wat wyd was meer oorspoeling tot gevolg gehad as strandprofiele wat steil (1:10) en nou was. ’n Verhoging in die strand se vlakke het die oorspoeling slegs verminder indien die diepte van die water vlak genoeg was om die golwe te laat breek voordat hulle die agterkant van die strand bereik het. Oorspoeling is gevind om te vermeeder met verlengde golflengte tot dat die golflengte só lank geword het dat die golwe in dieper water begin breek wat aanlieding tot verminderde oorspoeling gegee het. Daar word moontlike oplossings vir oorspoeling voorgestel gebaseer op twee strandvlakke en die implementering van ’n teruggebuigde strandmuur. Voorgestelde golfkruinvlakke vir die muur is al langs die lengte van die strand gemaak vir beide die 1:20- en 1:100-jaar watervlakke.

Dans les petites îles en développement soumises à de fortes pressions humaines, comme l'archipel des Comores, les usages qui favorisent l'érosion côtière sont un facteur aggravant de vulnérabilité du littoral face au changement climatique et à l'élévation du niveau de la mer. À Anjouan, les profils topographiques des plages et la construction de géoindicateurs paysagers montrent qu'une grande partie du littoral meuble est très érodée, notamment dans les zones de forte pression anthropique où les plages sont soumises à l'extraction de sédiments. Il en résulte des impacts négatifs dans l'économie, la société et l'environnement de l'île, notamment une dégradation généralisée des services écosystémiques sur lesquels les pouvoirs publics pourraient s'appuyer pour amorcer le développement d'Anjouan. Pour réduire la vulnérabilité du trait de côte à l'érosion, des murs sont construits avec le soutien financier des partenaires internationaux et régionaux, au risque d'accentuer encore plus la dégradation du littoral. Les usagers des plages considèrent que les causes de l'érosion sont plus à rechercher dans l'action de l'homme que dans celle de nature et demandent des mesures socio-économiques pour réduire les dégradations d'origine anthropique. Cette étude montre que toute politique de GIZC à Anjouan comme ailleurs aux Comores ne sera efficace que si les personnes chargées de sa mise en œuvre tiennent compte des réalités locales et des perceptions des usagers du littoral. / In the context of climate change and sea level rising, the activities of coastal communities can increase the vulnerability of the seashore to coastal erosion particularly in small developing islands as Anjouan in the Comoros archipelago where the human density on the coast is quite heavy. This thesis focuses on sandy beaches, studied as a system. The monitoring of topographic profiles of beaches and landscaped geoindicators show that a large part of the sandy coast of Anjouan is very degraded and eroded. The erosion is mainly localized to areas of high human pressure, including beaches subjected to the extraction of sediments . Combined with natural hazards, the erosion due to human activities generates serious damages for the economy, society and environment of Anjouan, including the degradation of ecosystem services on which the government could draw to initiate the development of the island . To reduce the vulnerability of the coastline to erosion, walls are built with the financial support of international and regional bodies, but they are inefficient and the risk of coastal degradation is even greater. For beach users, causes erosion are to be found in the work of the man and not in nature. Minimizing this risk requires socio-economic measures to reduce anthropogenic degradations. This study shows that a policy of ICZM in Anjouan in the Comoros and elsewhere will only be effective if those responsible for its implementation take into account local realities and perceptions of coastal users.