Orientador: Marizilda dos Santos Menezes / Coorientador: Marco Antônio dos Reis Pereira / Banca: Aparecida Maria Zem Lopes / Banca: Fernando José da Silva / Banca: José Carlos Plácido da Silva / Banca: Luis Carlos Paschoarelli / Resumo: O desenvolvimento sustentável é entendido como o melhor equilíbrio entre o crescimento econômico, a preservação ambiental e o desenvolvimento social, objetivando promover a melhoria do padrão de vida como um todo, garantindo esta continuidade às gerações futuras. A utilização de materiais de fontes renováveis, aliados às novas tecnologias, pode contribuir para esse desenvolvimento equilibrado. A popularização de softwares de projeto propiciou uma evolução na área do design, integrando sistemas, informações, permitindo a simulação de ensaios físico-mecânicos e a realização de prototipagem rápida. Esta integração é denominada como sistemas Computer Aided Design / Computer Aided Manufacturing (CAD/CAM) - Projeto auxiliado por computador e manufatura auxiliada por computador. O objetivo deste projeto é apresentar diretrizes para a relação entre os sistemas CAD/CAM e o desenvolvimento de componentes para calçados femininos em bambu. Para tanto, foi realizada pesquisa quanti-qualitativa, dividida em três momentos: pesquisa bibliográfica, pesquisa de campo e experimentações. A pesquisa de campo apresentou duas fases: na primeira, foram aplicados questionários semiestruturados para a coleta de dados primários no Arranjo Produtivo Local APL de Jaú, Estado de São Paulo; na segunda, preparou-se a matéria-prima experimental aplicada no estudo, denominada Bambu Laminado Colado (BLC). O BLC foi gerado por meio de uma interação com uma associação rural. As experimentações com o BLC foram ef... (Resumo completo, clicar acesso eletrônico abaixo) / Abstract: Sustainable development is understood as the best balance among economic growth, environmental preservation and social development, intending to promote the improvement of the living standard as a whole, guaranteeing this continuity to future generations. The use of renewable materials, associated with new technologies, can contribute to this balanced development. The popularization of design software provided an evolution in the area of design, integrating systems, information, as well as allowing the simulation of physical-mechanical tests and rapid prototyping. This integration is referred to as Computer Aided Design / Computer Aided Manufacturing (CAD / CAM). This project aims at presenting guidelines for the relationship between CAD / CAM systems and the development of components for female bamboo shoes. In order to accomplish that, a quantitative-qualitative research was conducted, divided into three moments: bibliographical research, field research and experimentation. Field research consisted of two phases: in the first, semi-structured questionnaires were used to collect primary data in the APL Local Productive Arrangement of Jaú, State of São Paulo; in the second phase, the experimental raw material applied in the study, called Bamboo Laminated Glued (Bambu Laminado Colado - BLC), was prepared. BLC was generated by means of an interaction with a rural association. The experiments with the BLC were made using CAD / CAM equipment, producing heels and ornaments, using ... (Complete abstract click electronic access below) / Doutor

Bakalauro darbo tema- Aulinių batų dekoravimas siuvinėjimo technika. Darbo objektas: aulinių batų dekoravimas augaliniais ornamentais. Darbo tikslas: analizuoti literatūrą apie batų istorijos madą, dekoruoti aulinius batus siuvinėjimo technika, naudojant augalinį motyvą. Uždaviniai: apžvelgti batų istorijos raidą; išnagrinėti siuvinėjimo technikų taikymą meninėje raiškoje; sukurti kūrybinį darbą panaudojant siuvinėjimo techniką; pritaikyti siuvinėjimą kryželiu technologijų pamokose. Apžvelgus informacinius šaltinius galima teigti, kad kiekviena epocha sukurdavo savo savitą batų stilių. Tobulėjant technikai pradedamas iškarpyti ažūras, batai puošiami spalvingu siuvinėjimu. Siuvinėjimu dekoruojamos įvairiausios medžiagos: avalynė, buities rakandai, nerti, austi audiniai, bei popierius. Technologijų pamokose mokiniai turi galimybę kūrybiškai pritaikyti įvairias siuvinėjimo technikas dekoruojant tekstilę ir kt. Išsiuvinėtos dvi odinių batų poros. Pritaikyta ši siuvinėjimo technika: siuvinėjimas kryželiu, kimštukai. Augalinis motyvas: aitrioji paprika ir ankštinė pupelė. / Theme of Bachelor degree thesis – Decoration of high shoes by embroidery technique. Subject of the thesis: decoration of high shoes ornament plant. Aim of the thesis: to review literature on history of shoes fashion, to decorate high shoes by embroidery technique with plant motive. Objectives: to review development of shoes history; to analyse application of embroidery technique in artistic expression; to create a creative work on the basis of embroidery technique; to apply cross stitch embroidery in the lessons of technologies. A review of information sources can be said that every age creates its own unique style of shoe. Technical development begins jag Azur, boots decorated with colorful embroidery. Embroidery decorated a variety of materials: footwear, household utensil, crocheted, woven fabrics and paper. Technology classes students have the opportunity to creatively apply the various techniques of embroidery decorating textiles and others. Embroidered leather shoes for two pair. Facilities for this embroidery technique: cross stitching. Plant motifs: Chilli, and legumes.

Submitted by LAÍS REGINA FAGANELLO null (laisfaganello@hotmail.com) on 2016-04-20T13:09:58Z No. of bitstreams: 2 DIssertação Laís pdf.pdf: 4039139 bytes, checksum: acabf0d0276662841fbe012c9eebca07 (MD5) DIssertação Laís pdf.pdf: 4039139 bytes, checksum: acabf0d0276662841fbe012c9eebca07 (MD5) / Approved for entry into archive by Felipe Augusto Arakaki (arakaki@reitoria.unesp.br) on 2016-04-26T14:52:07Z (GMT) No. of bitstreams: 1 faganello_lr_me_bauru.pdf: 4039139 bytes, checksum: acabf0d0276662841fbe012c9eebca07 (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2016-04-26T14:52:07Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 faganello_lr_me_bauru.pdf: 4039139 bytes, checksum: acabf0d0276662841fbe012c9eebca07 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2016-02-22 / Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior (CAPES) / A pesquisa pretende avaliar a percepção de desconforto e atividade dos músculos da perna, de usuárias de calçados com salto que possuem hiperidrose plantar. Para isto, discutem-se os aspectos ergonômicos aplicáveis ao design de calçados para pessoas com esta disfunção. A amostra do estudo foi composta por 20 mulheres divididas em dois grupos: com e sem hiperidrose plantar. Foi avaliada a atividade elétrica dos músculos por meio da eletromiografia de superfície (não invasiva) e a percepção de desconforto nos pés através do questionário de mapa plantar. Todos os sujeitos realizaram um circuito de caminhada composto de movimento em terreno plano, inclinado e em escadas. Desta forma, foi possível avaliar, comparando os achados dos dois grupos de sujeitos, a influência da transpiração excessiva dos pés nas atividades dos músculos da perna e na percepção de desconforto. Este estudo contribuirá para o conhecimento científico dos aspectos ergonômicos do design de calçados femininos. / The research aims to evaluate the perception of discomfort and activity of the leg muscles, users of shoes with heels that have plantar hyperhidrosis. For this, discusses the ergonomic aspects applicable to shoe design for people with this disorder. The study sample will consist of 20 women divided into two groups: with and without plantar hyperhidrosis. It was evaluated the electrical activity of the muscles through surface electromyography (no invasive) and the perception of discomfort in the feet through the survey map of the feet. All subjects will conduct a walking circuit composed of movement on flat ground, bent and stairs. In this way, you can evaluate by comparing the findings of the two group of subjects, the influence of excessive sweating of the feet in the activities of the leg muscles and perception of discomfort. This study will contribute to the scientific knowledge of the ergonomic aspects of the design of women´s shoes.

O objetivo geral do estudo consiste em investigar os aspectos da linguagem da propaganda, das marcas escolhidas para o estudo de casos (Sândalo; Carmen Steffens e Democrata) utilizando como referencial a propaganda comercial (anúncios da mídia impressa) dos calçados da moda. Existe a necessidade de verificar dois aspectos fundamentais no processo de comunicação: o emissor e o receptor, respectivamente o profissional da área de marketing e o grupo de clientes. Sob o ponto de vista do profissional de marketing, o objetivo da ação, o posicionamento e a estratégia de comunicação; e sob o ponto de vista do consumidor, a percepção, a imagem, em relação às propostas teóricas e práticas das empresas. Adaptarem às mudanças solicitadas pelo mercado consumidor brasileiro, constitui o desafio das organizações. A metodologia empregada utiliza a divisão da pesquisa em três partes: a primeira trata de um levantamento bibliográfico constituído do conjunto de pensamentos de vários autores sobre os assuntos relacionados ao tema em estudo; a segunda parte apresenta uma pesquisa documental (mídia impressa) que resultou na coleta de um banco de dados composto por peças publicitárias de calçados das marcas veiculados em outdoors e revistas de moda no período de 2002 a 2006; e a terceira parte aborda a pesquisa qualitativa através de discussões nos grupos de foco (ou Focus Group) que tem o propósito de descobrir o olhar e a percepção do consumidor em relação aos aspectos da linguagem da propaganda. O estudo apresenta como conclusão que não há moda sem sujeitos. Esta idéia significa que na mensagem publicitária deverá existir uma prática lingüística referente ao exercício de uma subjetividade: um conjunto de exercícios de linguagem, baseados em palavras e em imagens, que remetam para a afirmação da existência de sujeitos na mensagem ou, à personalização das entidades comerciais. Pretende-se contribuir, com esse estudo, para um melhor entendimento das estratégias de comunicação utilizadas pelas marcas em estudo, da forma de participação social e cultural, e da influência sobre o comportamento dos jovens, assim como a discussão da relação dos conceitos: moda; propaganda; gestão da marca e branding. / The general objective of the study is to investigate the aspects of the advertising language of the chosen brands for the study of cases (Sândalo; Carmen Steffens and Democrata) taking as a reference the commercial advertising (print media advertising) of the trendy shoes. It is necessary to consider two essential aspects in the communication process: the emitter and the receiver, respectively the marketing area professional and the clients group. According to the marketing professional, the action objective, the positioning and the communication strategy; and according to the customer, the perception, the image in relation to the theoretical and practical proposals of the companies. The organizations aim at adapting to changes required by the Brazilian consuming market. The methodology applied uses the research division in three parts: the first considers a bibliographic raising made of the set of thoughts coming from different authors about the subjects related to the theme under study; the second part shows a documental research (print media) which resulted in the assessment of data bank made of shoe marketing campaigns displayed in billboards and fashion magazines from 2002 to 2006; the third part considers the qualitative research through the discussions in the focus groups which intend to discover the look and perception of the customer in relation to the aspects of the advertising language. The study concludes that there is no fashion without subjects. This idea indicates that in the advertising message there should be a linguistic practice related to the exercise of subjectivity: a set of language exercises based on words and images, which remit to the assertion of the existence of subjects in the message or to the personalization of the commercial groups. It is also the objective of this study to contribute to a better understanding of the communication strategies used by the studied brands, the cultural and social participation form, and the influence upon youngsters behavior as well as the discussion of the concepts relation: fashion; advertising; brand management and branding.

OBJECTIVES: Comparing electromyography and physiological measures while walking on various inclines in unstable and stable shoes. METHODS: Eleven healthy females walked on treadmill at +10%, 0% and -10% grade for five minutes each, at self-selected pace, in stable and unstable shoes. The two sessions were done 3weeks apart during which the subjects used unstable shoes for regular activities. Electromyography of lower limb muscles, absolute and relative oxygen consumption, perceived exertion rating and heart rate was calculated. RESULTS: Tibialis anterior activation varied significantly with shoe type, irrespective of grade. Soleus, vastus medialis, and biceps femoris showed activation differences in specific gait phases. There was a main effect for absolute and relative oxygen consumption, RPE and HR only with grade. Shoe type showed no effect. CONCLUSION: Though there is no difference in overall physiological variables, but changes in electromyography in specific phases highlight possible muscle toning benefits of unstable shoes. / Graduate / 0350 / 0354 / 0382 / avneetchatha@gmail.com

Background: Despite the introduction of running footwear in the 1970’s, running injury rates continue to be unacceptably high. The subsequent revival of barefoot running and the introduction of minimalist footwear occurred, in an attempt to reduce injury rates and increase performance. There is much contention in the literature around the effectiveness of these footwear conditions. Furthermore individual responses have recently been proposed to provide more accurate and reflective conclusions than the use of mean data. Objectives: Twofold: a) to compare the biomechanical, physiological and perceptual responses between the shod, minimalist and barefoot footwear conditions and b) to assess and compare individual responses under these footwear conditions. Methods: 26 well-trained, male, habitually shod endurance runners, aged between 18 - 30 years completed three experimental sessions on an indoor runway and motorized treadmill. Each session was completed in either the shod, minimalist or barefoot condition, running at 15km.h-1. Variables assessed included stride rate, stride length, impact peak, vertical impact and average loading rate and strike time (biomechanical); heart rate, oxygen consumption and electromyography (physiological); and rating of perceived exertion and body discomfort (perceptual). Results: Biomechanics – Stride rate and stride length showed a significant (p<0.001) increase and decrease respectively when running in the minimalist or barefoot conditions versus shod. Running barefoot versus the minimalist and shod conditions resulted in a significantly (p<0.001) greater vertical impact loading rate. Strike time was significantly (p=0.008) reduced running in the minimalist and barefoot conditions versus shod. Physiology – Running barefoot versus shod resulted in a significantly (p=0.02) reduced heart rate and Tibialis Anterior activity (p=0.005). There was a large variability in individual responses for many variables, with responders and non-responders seen. Conclusion: The study suggests that there are significant differences between all three forms of running for some variables. It was further noted that there is support for the proposal that individual responses are highly variable and should be analysed accordingly

Footwear can affect postural stability in individuals, particularly in elderly people. Aging-related decline in postural stability, particularly in the mediolateral (ML) direction, is a risk factor for falls and fall-related injuries among older adults. This study aimed to investigate the effects of high cushioned and minimal shoes on dynamic postural stability in ML during obstacle crossing in defined older and younger adults. Six healthy older adults (50–60 years old, body weight: 74.8 kg, body height: 168.0 cm) and six healthy younger adults (18–32 years old, body weight: 73.8 kg, body height: 174.8 cm) participated in the study. A Vicon motion analysis system with 10 optical cameras was used to capture the obstacle (20 cm height) crossing motion of the participants at 200 Hz, and ground reaction forces of obstacle crossing were collected at 1000 Hz. Motion data of obstacle crossing were collected at three shoe conditions, namely, minimal shoe, high cushioned shoe and barefoot (control). Data from five trials of obstacle crossing for each shoe condition were processed using Vicon Nexus software 2.11.0 and Matlab R2013b. Displacement and velocity of centre of mass (COM) in the ML direction, COM–centre of pressure (COP) ML separation, step length, step velocity, toe clearance, pre-horizontal distance, hip flexion angle and hip abduction angle during obstacle crossing were examined. One-way ANOVA with pairwise analysis showed that toe clearance was significantly larger in the high cushioned shoe conditions than in the minimal shoe and barefoot conditions in older adults (high cushioned shoes vs. barefoot: p = 0.019; cushioned shoes vs. minimal shoes: p = 0.031) and younger adults (high cushioned shoes vs. barefoot: p = 0.016; high cushioned shoes vs. minimal shoes: p = 0.000). No significant difference in the measures was found between the minimal shoe and barefoot conditions in each group. Compared with older adults, younger adults showed significantly larger step length in barefoot condition (p = 0.000) and minimal shoe (p = 0.016). Independent t-test for examination of the significant difference of the means of each measure when the shoe condition was changed showed that only step length and step velocity were significantly different between older and younger adults. When the shoe condition was changed from minimal shoe or barefoot to high cushioned shoe, older adults showed significantly bigger change in step velocity (10.04 ± 4.39 cm/s for older; 1.87 ± 0.81 cm/s for younger; p = 0.034) and step length (14.26 ± 6.99 cm for older; 2.086 ± 1.13 cm for younger; p = 0.041) than younger adults. This result indicates that older adults had 23% greater total range of step length and 12% greater total range of step velocity compared with younger adults when shoe condition changed. Moreover, older adults showed 16% smaller total range in their maximal COM-COP ML separations than younger adults when shoe condition changed. It is concluded that high cushioned shoes can influence dynamic postural stability in the ML direction during obstacle crossing in younger and older adults. The minimal shoe and barefoot conditions did not show significant influence on postural stability in the ML direction during obstacle crossing in older and younger adults. The minimal shoe on dynamic postural stability in the ML direction is not significant. Age differences in dynamic postural stability in the ML direction during obstacle crossing were found at the same shoe conditions. Moreover, when shoe condition was changed, shoe cushioning conditions affected postural stability to a larger extent in older adults compared with younger adults. The high cushioned shoe led to a more challenged postural stability in adults aged 50 to 60 than younger adults aged 18 to 32.

Passive hallux adduction has been shown to decrease blood flow in the lateral plantar artery (LPA) in a non-weight-bearing condition. Further research in weight-bearing and shod conditions is necessary to explore relationships between altered blood flow and injury or tissue healing. However, measuring blood flow in a shod foot would require an alternate measurement location to accommodate footwear, such as the more proximal posterior tibial artery (PTA). PURPOSE: To determine changes in blood flow in the PTA and LPA subsequent to passive hallux adduction and to compare the observed changes between the two arteries. Second, to determine if measurement at the PTA is a viable surrogate for measurement at the LPA. METHODS: Forty-one subjects (21 males, 20 females) participated in this study (age 23.5 ± 4.5 years, body mass 72.6 ± 13.7 kg, and height 173.1 ± 10.2 cm). PTA and LPA vessel diameter and velocity were measured via doppler ultrasound (L8-18i transducer GE Logiq S8). LPA was imaged distal to the abductor hallucis and the PTA posterior to the medial malleolus. Each artery was measured for 120 s: 60 s at rest followed by 60 s of passive hallux adduction. PTA and LPA metrics were log transformed and compared using a two-way repeated measures ANOVA, then the log transformed data was assessed with paired t-tests and Bland-Altman plots (alpha = 0.05). RESULTS: There was an expected decrease in blood flow within each artery after passive hallux adduction (p < 0.001). The volume of blood flow differed between the arteries (p < .0001), but the change between baseline to first 5 cardiac cycles after hallux adduction was similar in each artery (p = 0.419). Bland-Altman analysis showed large spread limits of agreement, indicating the PTA underestimated or overestimated measurements at the LPA. CONCLUSIONS: These data suggest that PTA blood flow behaves in a similar manner as LPA blood flow in consequence to passive hallux adduction. There is no significant difference in the absolute change of blood flow during hallux adduction between the LPA and PTA. However, Bland-Altman analysis suggests that the PTA is not a direct surrogate for the LPA due to the large variance in flow between the arteries. Despite this, the PTA can still be a beneficial location of measurement for plantar blood flow. Some reasons are that the PTA has a larger diameter making it an easier artery to image and allows for further research implications due to its ease of access in more applicable circumstances, such as in a shod condition.

The purpose of the study was to compare the kinematics of the barbell back squat between two footwear conditions and to evaluate the results with respect to recommendations put forth in the National Strength and Conditioning Association position statement for proper squat technique. Twenty-five subjects with 5 - 7 years of resistance training experience participated. Selected kinematics were measured during a 60% of 1RM barbell back squat in both barefoot and athletic shoe conditions. Paired-samples T tests were performed to compare the two footwear conditions. Significant differences were found in trunk (50.72±8.27 vs. 46.97±9.87), thigh (20.94±10.19 vs. 24.42±11.11), and shank segment angles (59.47±5.54 vs. 62.75±6.17), and knee joint angles (81.33±13.70 vs. 88.32±15.45) at the peak descent position. Based on the kinematic analysis of the barefoot squat, two kinematic advantages are countered by two disadvantages. Coaches and instructors should acknowledge these results with respect to a performer's capability, and be aware the advantages and disadvantages of barefoot squat from a kinematic perspective.

The purpose of the study was to compare the kinematics of the barbell back squat between two footwear conditions and to evaluate the results with respect to recommendations put forth in the National Strength and Conditioning Association position statement for proper squat technique. Twenty-five subjects with 5 - 7 years of resistance training experience participated. Selected kinematics were measured during a 60% of 1RM barbell back squat in both barefoot and athletic shoe conditions. Paired-samples T tests were performed to compare the two footwear conditions. Significant differences were found in trunk (50.72±8.27 vs. 46.97±9.87), thigh (20.94±10.19 vs. 24.42±11.11), and shank segment angles (59.47±5.54 vs. 62.75±6.17), and knee joint angles (81.33±13.70 vs. 88.32±15.45) at the peak descent position. Based on the kinematic analysis of the barefoot squat, two kinematic advantages are countered by two disadvantages. Coaches and instructors should acknowledge these results with respect to a performer's capability, and be aware the advantages and disadvantages of barefoot squat from a kinematic perspective.