A habilidade de prever mudanças morfológicas nas regiões costeiras é restringida pela falta de dados observacionais com suficiente resolução espacial e temporal. Com o desenvolvimento do sensoriamento remoto, esse problema pode ser minimizado, especialmente com o uso de câmeras de vídeo para o estudo de regiões costeiras. Os objetivos dessa tese são, através do uso de imagens de vídeo, (1) desenvolver um método robusto para extrair a localização da linha de costa; (2) analisar um conjunto de dados inéditos de 26 anos de imagens diárias; (3) caracterizar as escalas espaciais e temporais da variação da linha de costa em um local representativo, a praia de Duck, NC; (4) testar esse método em uma praia reflectiva e com cúspides, a praia de Massaguaçu localizada no litoral brasileiro; (5) descrever recentes observações de feições morfológicas de meso-escalas associadas a um canal de marés usando uma técnica óptica inovadora e documentar as taxas e padrões de migração dessas feições morfológicas em New River Inlet, NC. Um modelo foi desenvolvido, chamado ASLIM (Augmented ShoreLine Intensity Maxima) para extrair as posições da linha de costa baseado na intensidade máxima observada nas imagens de exposição (timex) através de um ajuste Gaussiano com um subsequente filtro Kalman filtro, este para reduzir incertezas e ruídos. O ASLIM quando comparado com dados do levantamentos batimétricos mostrou um boa correlação com coeficiente de 0.85, estatisticamente significativo). As ondas foram caracterizadas em termos da altura significativa e os componentes longitudinal e transversal do fluxo de energia da onda (Px e Py, respectivamente). Menos de 2\\% da altura da onda é explicada por escalas maiores do que um ano. 66\\% da variância foi explicada por períodos maiores do que o ciclo anual, apesar do fato das forçantes (ondas) serem dominadas por períodos curtos (menores que 20 dias). O primeiro modo da EOF para a variação da linha de costa contém 49\\% da variância e representou o movimento transversal da linha de costa. O segundo modo (26\\% da variância) está associado com a alternância de sinais de acresção em cada lado píer, enquanto que os modos mais altos (7\\% e 5.6\\%) descrevem os efeitos locais do píer. O píer apresentou uma influência significativa no comportamento da linha de costa, à qual estende-se a 500 metros ao norte e sul do píer, duas vezes mais do que os valores assumidos por estudos anteriores. O píer restringe o transporte longitudinal sazonal entre a parte sul (verão) e a parte norte (inverno), resultando em uma acumulação de sedimentos sazonalmente reversa no lado up-drift da deriva. Sinais de erosão foram encontrados ao lado down-drift do píer e que propagam-se 1200 m/ano para longe do píer. A linha de costa apresentou uma tendência à erosão apenas no lado norte do píer, esta erosão pode estar relacionada com a tendência de aumento do transporte longitudinal para o norte, que é bloqueado devido ao píer, gerando uma acumulação na parte sul do píer e erosão na parte norte. O método ASLIM também foi testado na Praia de Massaguaçu e mostrou ser uma valiosa ferramenta para investigar variabilidade da linha de costa. Nossas observações em New River Inlet (NC), revelaram um complexo de bancos de espraiamento e feições arenosas de meso-escalas que migraram em um padrão coerente horário onde nas regiões offshore migraram em direção contrária a desembocadura do rio enquanto que as feições na região próxima a costa, migraram em direção ao canal. Para quantificar de forma objetiva as taxas e padrões de migração um algoritmo foi desenvolvido (LLSA - Lagged Least Square Algorithm) usando sequências de imagens de exposição (timex). Esse método compara diferentes imagens que possuem diferentes intervalos de tempo, e encontra o intervalo (lag) onde essas imagens são similares. A taxa média de migração encontrada foi de 1.53 m/dia (com desvio padrão de 0.76 m/dia). 72\\% das taxas estimadas foram maiores que 1.0 m/dia, 31\\% foram maiores que 2 m/dia, e as taxas máximas encontradas foram 3.5 m/day, em 23 dias. As taxas de migração média longitudinais mostraram um nó em 110 metros da linha de costa que separa as feições que migram para longe do canal (offshore) e para a linha de costa. O padrão circular pareceu ser consistente com o fluxo residual esperado em um delta de maré vazante. Em conclusão, nossos resultados mostraram que o uso de câmeras de vídeo são uma ótima ferramenta para fornecer informações sobre a dinâmica de morfologias costeiras com alta resolução temporal e espacial, de curto à longo-prazo. / The ability to predict changes of the coastal morphology has been restricted by the lack of observational data in a sufficient spatial and temporal coverage. With the advent of remote sensing, the low spatial and temporal resolution could be overcome, especially with the development of video cameras to study nearshore environments. The goals of this thesis are, using remote sensing techniques, to (1) develop a robust method for extracting shoreline locations; (2) analyze a unique 16 and 26-year record of daily to hourly video images; (3) characterize the space-time scales of shoreline variability at a representative site at Duck, NC; (4) test this method at a reflective and cuspy beach at Massaguaçu Beach located at Brazilian coast; (5) describe recent observations of meso-scales morphology associated with tidal inlets using an innovative optical method and document rates and patterns of migration of these features at New River Inlet, NC. A model was developed, called ASLIM (Augmented ShoreLine Intensity Maxima) to extract the shoreline positions based on fitting the band of high light intensity in time exposure images to a local Gaussian fit with a subsequent Kalman filter to reduce noise and uncertainty. The ASLIM model showed good agreement with survey data (correlation coefficient of 0.85, significant at 95\\% confidence level). Wave forcing was characterized in terms of the significant wave height and the cross-shore and longshore components of wave energy flux. 66\\% of the shoreline variability was explained by periods longer than the annual cycle, despite the fact that wave forcing is dominated by shorter periods. The first EOF mode of shoreline variability contained 49\\% of the variance and represented the cross-shore movement (landward- seaward) of the shoreline. The second mode (26\\% of the variance) is associated with alternating accretion signals on either side of the pier, while the next two higher EOFs (7\\% and 5.6\\%) describe the local pier effects. The pier was found to have a significant influence on shoreline behavior that extends out to 500 meters, nearly twice the length scales assumed by previous studies. The pier restricts seasonal longshore transport from the south (summer) and north (winter) sides, resulting in a seasonally-reversing sediment accumulation on the up-drift side. Erosion signals on the down-drift side of the pier were found propagate away from the pier at 1200 m/year. A shoreline erosion trend that was found only on the north side of the pier may be related to the trend found in the alongshore transport, that it is increasing toward the north and is being blocked by the pier. The ASLIM method was also tested at Massaguaçu Beach and showed to be a valuable tool to investigate shoreline variability processes. Our observations, at New Rivet Inlet (NC), revealed a complex set of swash bars and meso-scale sand banks that migrated in a coherent clockwise pattern with movement in offshore regions being away from the inlet mouth while nearshore migration was back toward the inlet. To quantify migration rates and patterns objectively based on sequences of time exposure images, a Lagged Least Squares Algorithm (LLSA) was developed that found the vector migration rate for which the suite of lagged images were most similar, computed on a tile-by-tile basis. The mean migration rate was found to be 1.53 m/day (standard deviation of 0.76 m/day). 72\\% percent of estimated rates were greater than 1.0 m/day, 31\\% percent were larger than 2.0 m/day, and the maximum rate round was 3.5 m/day, averaged over 23 days. Alongshore averages of cross-shore migration rates showed a node at 110 m from the shoreline that separates migration away from the inlet (offshore) from migration toward the inlet near the shore. The circular pattern of migration appeared to be consistent with expected residual flow on an ebb delta. In conclusion, our results showed that the use of video cameras are a useful tool for providing information about the dynamics of coastal morphologies with a high temporal and spatial resolution, from short to long-term.

O presente estudo modificou o modelo parabólico da forma em planta de equilíbrio de Medellín et al., 2009, proposto para praias de enseada com desembocaduras, incorporando um parâmetro relacionado à dinâmica costeira, que seria o volume de areia necessário para formar a praia emersa próxima à desembocadura. Foram escolhidas 27 desembocaduras na costa brasileira e obtidos parâmetros da dinâmica costeira e estuarina, através de imagens do Googleearth e dados de ondas e marés astronômicas dos programas SMC-TOOLS e WXTide32, respectivamente. O modelo parabólico foi aplicado e não se ajustou adequadamente, com diferenças com relação à linha de costa de 20-40m até 80m. Logo, foi realizada sua adaptação à costa brasileira, apresentando uma moderada a baixa dispersão dos coeficientes A e B de 77 % e 64%, respectivamente. Sua validação apresentou ajuste bom a satisfatório, com diferenças médias de 5m até máximas de 15m com relação à linha de costa. Posteriormente, foi realizada a modificação do modelo parabólico que minimizou a dispersão dos coeficientes A e B com um ajuste de 98 % e 81%, respectivamente. Sua validação apresentou um ajuste excelente a bom, com diferenças médias de 3-5m até máximas de 10m com relação à linha de costa. / This study modified the equilibrium plan form formulations proposed by Medellín et al., (2009) to embayments beachs with inlets, by incorporating a parameter related to coastal dynamics, that would be the volume of sand required to build the aerial beach close to the inlet. For this study 27 embayments beaches with inlets were chosen on the Brazilian coast and obtained parameters of dynamics coastal and estuarine, through GoogleEarth images and waves and astronomical tide datas series by the SMC-TOOLS and WXTide32 programs, respectively. The Medellín parabolic model was applied and did not fit properly, with differences regarding the shoreline of 20-40m up to maximum of 80m. Therefore, their adaptation to the Brazilian coast was carried out, which showed a moderate to low dispersion of the coefficients A and B of 77% and 64%, respectively. Their validation showed good to satisfactory fit, with mean differences regarding the shoreline of 5m up to maximum of 15m. Subsequently, the modification of the parabolic model was carried out which minimized the dispersion of the coefficients A and B with a fit of 98% and 81%, respectively. Their validation showed an excellent to good fit, with mean differences regarding the shoreline of 3-5m up to maximum of 10m.

A habilidade de prever mudanças morfológicas nas regiões costeiras é restringida pela falta de dados observacionais com suficiente resolução espacial e temporal. Com o desenvolvimento do sensoriamento remoto, esse problema pode ser minimizado, especialmente com o uso de câmeras de vídeo para o estudo de regiões costeiras. Os objetivos dessa tese são, através do uso de imagens de vídeo, (1) desenvolver um método robusto para extrair a localização da linha de costa; (2) analisar um conjunto de dados inéditos de 26 anos de imagens diárias; (3) caracterizar as escalas espaciais e temporais da variação da linha de costa em um local representativo, a praia de Duck, NC; (4) testar esse método em uma praia reflectiva e com cúspides, a praia de Massaguaçu localizada no litoral brasileiro; (5) descrever recentes observações de feições morfológicas de meso-escalas associadas a um canal de marés usando uma técnica óptica inovadora e documentar as taxas e padrões de migração dessas feições morfológicas em New River Inlet, NC. Um modelo foi desenvolvido, chamado ASLIM (Augmented ShoreLine Intensity Maxima) para extrair as posições da linha de costa baseado na intensidade máxima observada nas imagens de exposição (timex) através de um ajuste Gaussiano com um subsequente filtro Kalman filtro, este para reduzir incertezas e ruídos. O ASLIM quando comparado com dados do levantamentos batimétricos mostrou um boa correlação com coeficiente de 0.85, estatisticamente significativo). As ondas foram caracterizadas em termos da altura significativa e os componentes longitudinal e transversal do fluxo de energia da onda (Px e Py, respectivamente). Menos de 2\\% da altura da onda é explicada por escalas maiores do que um ano. 66\\% da variância foi explicada por períodos maiores do que o ciclo anual, apesar do fato das forçantes (ondas) serem dominadas por períodos curtos (menores que 20 dias). O primeiro modo da EOF para a variação da linha de costa contém 49\\% da variância e representou o movimento transversal da linha de costa. O segundo modo (26\\% da variância) está associado com a alternância de sinais de acresção em cada lado píer, enquanto que os modos mais altos (7\\% e 5.6\\%) descrevem os efeitos locais do píer. O píer apresentou uma influência significativa no comportamento da linha de costa, à qual estende-se a 500 metros ao norte e sul do píer, duas vezes mais do que os valores assumidos por estudos anteriores. O píer restringe o transporte longitudinal sazonal entre a parte sul (verão) e a parte norte (inverno), resultando em uma acumulação de sedimentos sazonalmente reversa no lado up-drift da deriva. Sinais de erosão foram encontrados ao lado down-drift do píer e que propagam-se 1200 m/ano para longe do píer. A linha de costa apresentou uma tendência à erosão apenas no lado norte do píer, esta erosão pode estar relacionada com a tendência de aumento do transporte longitudinal para o norte, que é bloqueado devido ao píer, gerando uma acumulação na parte sul do píer e erosão na parte norte. O método ASLIM também foi testado na Praia de Massaguaçu e mostrou ser uma valiosa ferramenta para investigar variabilidade da linha de costa. Nossas observações em New River Inlet (NC), revelaram um complexo de bancos de espraiamento e feições arenosas de meso-escalas que migraram em um padrão coerente horário onde nas regiões offshore migraram em direção contrária a desembocadura do rio enquanto que as feições na região próxima a costa, migraram em direção ao canal. Para quantificar de forma objetiva as taxas e padrões de migração um algoritmo foi desenvolvido (LLSA - Lagged Least Square Algorithm) usando sequências de imagens de exposição (timex). Esse método compara diferentes imagens que possuem diferentes intervalos de tempo, e encontra o intervalo (lag) onde essas imagens são similares. A taxa média de migração encontrada foi de 1.53 m/dia (com desvio padrão de 0.76 m/dia). 72\\% das taxas estimadas foram maiores que 1.0 m/dia, 31\\% foram maiores que 2 m/dia, e as taxas máximas encontradas foram 3.5 m/day, em 23 dias. As taxas de migração média longitudinais mostraram um nó em 110 metros da linha de costa que separa as feições que migram para longe do canal (offshore) e para a linha de costa. O padrão circular pareceu ser consistente com o fluxo residual esperado em um delta de maré vazante. Em conclusão, nossos resultados mostraram que o uso de câmeras de vídeo são uma ótima ferramenta para fornecer informações sobre a dinâmica de morfologias costeiras com alta resolução temporal e espacial, de curto à longo-prazo. / The ability to predict changes of the coastal morphology has been restricted by the lack of observational data in a sufficient spatial and temporal coverage. With the advent of remote sensing, the low spatial and temporal resolution could be overcome, especially with the development of video cameras to study nearshore environments. The goals of this thesis are, using remote sensing techniques, to (1) develop a robust method for extracting shoreline locations; (2) analyze a unique 16 and 26-year record of daily to hourly video images; (3) characterize the space-time scales of shoreline variability at a representative site at Duck, NC; (4) test this method at a reflective and cuspy beach at Massaguaçu Beach located at Brazilian coast; (5) describe recent observations of meso-scales morphology associated with tidal inlets using an innovative optical method and document rates and patterns of migration of these features at New River Inlet, NC. A model was developed, called ASLIM (Augmented ShoreLine Intensity Maxima) to extract the shoreline positions based on fitting the band of high light intensity in time exposure images to a local Gaussian fit with a subsequent Kalman filter to reduce noise and uncertainty. The ASLIM model showed good agreement with survey data (correlation coefficient of 0.85, significant at 95\\% confidence level). Wave forcing was characterized in terms of the significant wave height and the cross-shore and longshore components of wave energy flux. 66\\% of the shoreline variability was explained by periods longer than the annual cycle, despite the fact that wave forcing is dominated by shorter periods. The first EOF mode of shoreline variability contained 49\\% of the variance and represented the cross-shore movement (landward- seaward) of the shoreline. The second mode (26\\% of the variance) is associated with alternating accretion signals on either side of the pier, while the next two higher EOFs (7\\% and 5.6\\%) describe the local pier effects. The pier was found to have a significant influence on shoreline behavior that extends out to 500 meters, nearly twice the length scales assumed by previous studies. The pier restricts seasonal longshore transport from the south (summer) and north (winter) sides, resulting in a seasonally-reversing sediment accumulation on the up-drift side. Erosion signals on the down-drift side of the pier were found propagate away from the pier at 1200 m/year. A shoreline erosion trend that was found only on the north side of the pier may be related to the trend found in the alongshore transport, that it is increasing toward the north and is being blocked by the pier. The ASLIM method was also tested at Massaguaçu Beach and showed to be a valuable tool to investigate shoreline variability processes. Our observations, at New Rivet Inlet (NC), revealed a complex set of swash bars and meso-scale sand banks that migrated in a coherent clockwise pattern with movement in offshore regions being away from the inlet mouth while nearshore migration was back toward the inlet. To quantify migration rates and patterns objectively based on sequences of time exposure images, a Lagged Least Squares Algorithm (LLSA) was developed that found the vector migration rate for which the suite of lagged images were most similar, computed on a tile-by-tile basis. The mean migration rate was found to be 1.53 m/day (standard deviation of 0.76 m/day). 72\\% percent of estimated rates were greater than 1.0 m/day, 31\\% percent were larger than 2.0 m/day, and the maximum rate round was 3.5 m/day, averaged over 23 days. Alongshore averages of cross-shore migration rates showed a node at 110 m from the shoreline that separates migration away from the inlet (offshore) from migration toward the inlet near the shore. The circular pattern of migration appeared to be consistent with expected residual flow on an ebb delta. In conclusion, our results showed that the use of video cameras are a useful tool for providing information about the dynamics of coastal morphologies with a high temporal and spatial resolution, from short to long-term.

Les dunes côtières constituent un des éléments fondamentaux de la dynamique des systèmes côtiers sableux. Leur stabilité dépend essentiellement de leur capacité à résister aux effets des tempêtes et à se reconstituer après l'érosion. Dans le contexte actuel du changement climatique, la probable hausse du niveau de la mer devrait affecter considérablement les systèmes côtiers et de surcroît augmenter la vulnérabilité des cordons dunaires à l'érosion.L'objectif principal de cette thèse est d'étudier l'évolution des littoraux dunaires de la Côte d'Opale en adoptant une approche à plusieurs échelles de temps afin d'évaluer leur capacité de résistance et/ou de régénération face aux événements tempétueux. A long terme, l'étude de l'évolution du trait de côte sur près de 68 ans, à partir de photographies aériennes orthorectifiées, a révélé que plus de la moitié des littoraux dunaires de la Côte d'Opale sont stables ou en accumulation et possèdent donc une bonne capacité de résilience, malgré les nombreuses tempêtes ayant affecté ce littoral depuis le début des années 50. L'analyse de leur évolution sur un pas de temps de 5 ans a mis en évidence une forte variabilité spatiale et temporelle directement liée aux forçages météo-marins, notamment aux épisodes tempétueux associés à des hauts niveaux d'eaux. A moyen et court termes, des levés topographiques LiDAR et des mesures in-situ, couplés aux données météorologiques et hydrodynamiques, ont révélé une réponse morphologique différente entre des secteurs dunaires adjacents. Celle-ci est liée à la variation des paramètres morphologiques (altitude de pied de dune, largeur et volume du haut de plage) au cours des périodes étudiées. Les résultats montrent également que les processus de régénération peuvent être très longs sur nos sites d'étude, ce qui suggère que les dunes cotières qui, jusqu'à présent étaient relativement stables, risquent de connaître des épisodes d'érosion plus fréquents avec l'élévation contemporaine du niveau de la mer. / Coastal dunes are fundamental elements of sandy coastal systems dynamic. They may experience a variable response to coastal erosion, in relation to their ability to withstand storm effects and to recover from erosion. Global sea level rise, related to global warming, would considerably affect coastal systems and hence the sensitivity of coastal dunes to erosion. The main objective of this thesis is to study the evolution of the Côte d'Opale coastal dunes at different time scales in order to evoluate their capacity to resist and/or to recover from storm impacts. Over long term periods (nearly 68 years), shoreline evolution analysis from orthorectified aerial photographs revealed that more than half of the Côte d'Opale coastal dunes are stable or prograding and thus, are resilient. Their evolution over 5-year periods highlighted a strong spatial and temporal variability which is directly linked to weather and hydrodynamic conditions, especially the occurence of storms during heigh water levels. At medium and short term scales, topographic surveys from LiDAR and in-situ measurements, coupled with metrological and hydrodynamic data, showed a different morphological response between adjacent coastal dune areas. This is related to variations in morphological parameters such as dune foot elevation, width and volume of the upper-beach during the studied periods. Results show also that coastal dunes recovery from storms can be a very long process at our study areas, suggesting that foredunes in a state of mesoscale stability may experience more frequent erosion with currents sea level rise.

Ces dernières années, de nouvelles stratégies ciblant un accompagnement de la mobilité du trait de côte plutôt que sa fixation ont vu le jour. Parmi celles-ci, les ouvrages atténuateur de houle visent à protéger la côte en dissipant l’énergie des vagues par déferlement bathymétrique, tout en restant invisibles depuis la plage. Leur utilisation a toutefois eu des effets contrastés et les processus hydro-sédimentaires induits par ces structures restent mal connus. L’objectif général de ce travail est de mieux comprendre les effets de ces atténuateurs de houle sur la morphodynamique littorale, notamment sur des sites où l’évolution de l’avant-côte est complexe et dynamique. L’observation des effets induits par un atténuateur de houle installé au lido de Sète (Golfe du Lion), sur la dynamique littorale est réalisée via un dispositif vidéo qui permet de caractériser l’évolution morphologique du système. En s’appuyant sur une méthode automatique de correction des images développée dans le cadre de cette thèse, l’estimation de la bathymétrie par inversion de la célérité des vagues et ses erreurs associées sont évaluées pour la première fois en Méditerranée. Les observations montrent que l’atténuateur de houle impacte de manière importante la morphologie et la dynamique des barres sableuses pré-littorales et révèlent que l’élargissement de la plage résulte principalement de son couplage avec la nouvelle forme de barre plus linéaire. Le modèle morphodynamique 2DBeach est ensuite implémenté sur Sète et sur un second site atelier en Australie où un récif artificiel de taille et de forme différente a été mis en place. Les simulations réalisées permettent de déterminer les circulations induites par ces ouvrages ainsi que les évolutions sédimentaires associées. Enfin, ce travail met en lumière les différents processus physiques contrôlant l’influence d’un atténuateur de houle sur les évolutions morphologiques des barres sableuses pré-littorales et du trait de côte, et renforce des connaissances essentielles à la gestion durable des plages sableuses. / In recent years, traditional coastal defense strategy has become increasingly unpopular as it is costly and lastingly scars the landscape with sometimes limited effectiveness or even adverse impact. Mimicking natural reefs, submerged breakwaters aims to protect the coast, decreasing wave energy through wave breaking offshore with the advantage of remaining invisible from the beach. The general objective of this work is to better understand the different morphodynamic processes that interact in the presence of these structures, especially for complex beach morphology with highly dynamic sandbars. The observation of the effects induced by a submerged breakwater deployed at the Lido of Sète (Gulf of Lions) on the morphological response is performed using a video monitoring system. Based on an automatic method for image correction developed in this thesis, a video-derived depth inversion algorithm was tested to infer nearshore bathymetry from remotely-sensed wave parameters. Our observations show that the submerged breakwater had a profound impact on the shoreline-sandbar system and suggest that, on barred beaches, the role of the sandbar is critical to shoreline response to the implementation of such a structure. The expected salient formation was not observed and, instead, shoreline coupled to the modified sandbar geometry, which resulted in a slight seaward migration of the shoreline in the lee of the structure. In order to characterize the nearshore circulation induced by these structures and to better assess sediment transport, the morphodynamic model 2DBeach was then implemented on Sète and at another beach in Australia where an artificial reef of different size and shape has been deployed. This work allows a better understanding of the influence of a submerged breakwater on the morphological evolution of sandbars and shoreline on time scales from storm to years, and provides new insight into nearshore system response to better design sustainable management of sandy beaches.

Strandskyddet i Sverige är en del av allemansrätten som innebär att var och en har rätt att under ansvar färdas fritt i den svenska naturen, den rätten skyddas av strandskyddslagstiftning i miljöbalken. Dispens från förbuden i strandskyddslagstiftningen kan medges av kommunen. Strandskyddslagstiftningen har sedan 2009 fått nytt innehåll, bland annat att Länsstyrelsen är den myndighet som efter att kommunen medgett strandskyddsdispens granskar och i vissa fall överprövar dessa ärenden. En ny regel som ska säkerställa att fri passage ges vid tomtplatsbestämning infördes även 2009. Ett antal överprövningsärenden har studerats för att kunna analysera tillämpningen av bestämmelserna av tomtplats och fri passage. En litteraturstudie är tänkt att svara på om krav på fri passage förekommer i andra länder. Litteraturstudien ska ge kunskap om de svenska rättsförhållanden. Intervju och enkät kompletterar studien. Studien har gett svar om hur strandskyddslagen tillämpas avseende tomtplats och fri passage vid olika åtgärder i strandskyddsområde. Ett helhetsperspektiv ges även, där alla beslut om dispenser i materialet påverkas av regeln om fri passage och vilka åtgärder Länsstyrelsen gör med tomtplats. Helhetsperspektivet visar att en stor del av fallen inte anses beröras av frågan enligt Länsstyrelsens handläggare, men att trots det bevaras eller möjliggörs fri passage som ett resultat av deras beslut i 40% av ärendena. Med ett åtgärdsperspektiv presenteras bland annat varför olika typer av ersättningsbyggnader medges dispens utifrån tomtplatsbegreppet. De beslut som innebär att hel fastighet med strandkontakt bestäms till tomtplats är av naturliga orsaker det största hindret mot fri passage. I Stockholms Länsstyrelse förekommer det i 20% av studerat material. Av de fastigheter som avgränsats till hel tomtplats förekommer betydligt större tomtplatser än vad lagstiftningen rekommenderar. De oväntade resultat som kommit fram i studien gör gällande att halländska förhållanden kan visa på en flexibilitet i tillämpningen av strandskyddet vid mindre vattendrag, medan Stockholms förhållanden indikerar brister vid utredning huruvida ett område kan anses privat ianspråktaget eller ej. Nyckelord: Strandskyddslagstiftning, fri passage, tomtplats, komplementbyggnad, ersättningsbyggnad, lucktomt, strandskyddsdispens, överprövning. / Beach protection in Sweden is part of the public nature, which in this study means that everyone has the right to responsible travel freely in the Swedish nature. This right is secured by shoreline protection legislation in the environmental legislation. In certain circumstances it is possible to grant exemptions from the prohibitions in the shoreline protection. Shore protection legislation has changed and new content was added in 2009. Among other things, the County Administrative Board is now the authority that review, and in sometimes try the cases where the municipality has accepted a waiver. It can entitles as a "double check". A new rule that will ensure that free passage is provided when the use of properties concerning the area for plot get limited by a plot determination, was introduced in 2009. A number of cases up for double checking have been studied to analyze the application of the provisions of plot site and free passage. A literature review is intended to find out whether demands for free passage occurs in other countries. The literature review will also provide knowledge about the Swedish legal relations. Interviews and a survey complements the study. The study has provided answers on plot site and free access application from different perspectives. One perspective is how all decisions on exemptions in the material are affected by the rule of free passage and what steps the County Board takes with plot site. The following view shows that a large proportion of the cases are not considered to be affected by the issue of the County Administration Officer. Another perspective is to look at the actions permitted. This includes a presentation of why different types of replacement buildings are dispensed, regarding to plot site concept. Needless to say, decisions where an entire property with beach contact is determined to plot site is the biggest obstacle to free passage. In Stockholm County Administrative Board, this occurs in 20% of the studied materials. In the cases where the entire property was defined as plot site, there exists considerably larger plots than the law recommends. The unexpected results that have emerged in the study argues that Hallands´ conditions may show a flexibility in the application of shore protection close to small streams, while circumstances in Stockholm indicate shortcomings in investigating whether an area can be considered private utilization or not. Keywords: County Administrative Board, Coastal zone management, Legislation, Shoreline, Free passage, Public nature

In this study, available coastal models are briefly discussed and under wind waves and a numerical shoreline change model for longshore sediment transport based on &ldquo / one-line&rdquo / theory is developed. In numerical model, wave diffraction phenomenon in one-dimensional modeling is extensively discussed and to represent the irregular wave diffraction in the sheltered zones of coastal structures a simpler approach based on the methodology introduced by Kamphuis (2000) is proposed. Furthermore, the numerical model results are compared with analytical solutions of accretion and erosion at a single groin. An application to a case study of a groin field constructed to the east side of Kizilirmak river mouth, at Bafra alluvial plain, is carried out by the numerical model. The results of comparisons show that the numerical model is in good agreement with the analytical solutions of shoreline changes at a groin. Similarly, numerical model results are compared with field data of Bafra and it is shown that they are in good agreement qualitatively. Therefore, the numerical model is accepted to be capable of representing of shoreline evolution qualitatively even for complex coastal regions.

In this study, a numerical model &ldquo / Modified Coast-Structure Interaction Numerical Model&rdquo / (CSIM) is developed with an implicit approach to determine the shoreline changes due to wind wave induced longshore sediment transport under the presence of groins, T-groins and offshore breakwaters by making modifications on the explicit numerical model &ldquo / Coast-Structure Interaction Numerical Model&rdquo / (CSI). Using representative wave data transformed to a chosen reference depth from deep water, numerical model (CSIM) simulates the shoreline changes considering structure interference. Breaking and diffraction within the sheltered zones of coastal structures defined for offshore breakwaters by using vectorial summation of the diffraction coefficients and as for T-groins shore-perpendicular part forms a boundary to define the shoreline changes seperately at two sides of the structure. Numerical model, CSIM is tested with a case study by applying in Bafra Delta, Kizilirmak river mouth at Black sea coast of Turkey. Numerical model simulations show that model results are in good agreement qualitatively with field measurements.

River mouths are very active coastal regions. Continuous sediment supply by the river and the movement by wave action cause the shoreline to change in time and space. Modeling of shoreline changes is an essential step before the design of any coastal engineering project. This research aimed to develop a system of numerical models to present the shoreline changes around a river mouth. The system of numerical models has three components: 1) modeling of nearshore wave characteristics, 2) modeling of longshore sand transport rates using the results of the first component, 3) modeling of shoreline changes using the estimated sand transport rates. Thus, firstly, deep water wave characteristics including the annual wave rose affecting Manavgat River mouth have been obtained from the database of NATO TU-WAVES Project. Then REF/DIF1 and SWAN nearshore wave models have been used to find out nearshore wave conditions. Since the results obtained from REF/DIF1 wave model have been found to be more reasonable compared to SWAN&rsquo / s output, REF/DIF1 wave model has been used in preparing a time series nearshore reference wave file with three hours time interval. This reference file has been used to run GENESIS. Last step of the numerical shoreline change modelling of Manavgat River mouth was the calibration procedure in which the &ldquo / transport parameters&rdquo / k1 and k2 have been determined. As there is lack of measurements of shoreline positions that can be used in calibrating shoreline change model, k1 and k2 has been approximately found to be k1=0.516 and k2=0.9 by using an empirical sediment transport formula. As a future study, it is recommended that when the protection structure controlling the river mouth is finished, the measurements of shoreline position behind the structure should be used in verification of shoreline change model in order to get more accurate results.

Une approche modélisante du potentiel TSL le long des plages du golfe du Lion est proposée sur la base du modèle d’ingénierie côtière Unibest-LT (Deltares). Sont exploités en entrée de modèle des données de houle de 1979 à 2010 (base de données ANEMOC-2 produite par le Cerema à partir d’une approche modélisante également) conjointement à des données topo-bathymétriques haute résolution LiDAR (base de données Litto3D produite conjointement par le SHOM et l’IGN). Le potentiel de TSL annuel est calculé pour 157 profils topo-bathymétriques couvrant l’ensemble des ∿250 km de littoral étudié dans ce travail de thèse.En premier lieu, le potentiel de TSL annuel résultant est d’abord estimé sur la base d’une année de houle type, établie à partir de 31 ans de houle horaire entre 1979 et 2010, puis pour chaque année entre 1979 et 2010. La différence observée avec le potentiel de TSL annuel résultat « type » permet de discrétiser les années en trois situations : anomalie positive, anomalie négative ou proche de la normale. Par ailleurs, un lien est clairement établi entre la variabilité interannuelle identifiée dans les simulations et les tempêtes. En outre, cette analyse interannuelle menée à l’échelle des plages du golfe du Lion amène à affiner les limites des cellules de dérive littorale potentielle, pour lesquelles trois scénarios d’organisation sont établis : habituel, occasionnel, exceptionnel.Enfin, le lien entre potentiel de TSL annuel résultant et variations du rivage est testé, conformément au large corpus bibliographique qui existe à ce sujet en ingénierie côtière. Cependant, les résultats s’avèrent décevants : une remise en cause de la théorie sous-jacente est proposée. / Wave data from 1979 to 2010 derived from a large-scale modelling database (ANEMOC-2) were used together with high resolution topo-bathymetric LiDAR data as inputs within the coastal engineering model Unibest-LT (Uniform Beach Sediment - Longshore Transport). The spatial and temporal coverage of these data offers a unique opportunity to carry out a comprehensive study of potential longshore transport intensity and direction.Over the 250 km-long stretch of coast covering the study area, the longshore drift directions computed with the 30-year mean wave climate closely match those of previous findings based on experimental geomorphological methods.Potential LST rates are then computed for each year individually over the 1979-2010 period. Deviations from the 30-year mean LST rates are used to identify 3 cases: positive anomalies, negative anomalies and close to normal. Storm contributions to longshore transport are brought into light: inter-annual variability in LST rates is strongly correlated to >4 m waves occurences.The relationship between LST rates gradients alongshore and shoreline changes is also investigated : despite the significant amout of papers on that subject, results showned in this thesis appears to be disappointing.In the light of these findings, coastal drift cell boundaries are defined taking into account the 30-year mean potential LST rates and the inter-annual variability. This thesis thus highlights the good potential of longshore transport modelling in yielding coherent results that are essential from a shoreline management perspective for future coastal sustainability.