Atualmente, os corantes naturais vêm ganhando maior interesse da sociedade, fazendo crescer um novo nicho de mercado, que valoriza produtos obtidos de matériasprimas naturais, devido aos menores danos causados à saúde humana e ao meio ambiente. Uma fonte potencial para obtenção de corantes encontra-se na operação industrial da obtenção de óleo essencial de folhas de eucalipto. Trata-se de um resíduo líquido gerado na etapa de destilação das folhas, mediante o emprego de vapor d´água. Um grande volume de extrato é gerado e descartado como efluente do processo. O Brasil é um dos principais produtores mundiais de óleo de folhas de eucalipto, sobretudo de Corymbia citriodora (ex Eucalyptus citriodora), havendo, desse modo, importante potencial de exploração do efluente gerado na destilação das folhas como matéria-prima. Contando com o apoio de uma empresa do setor de produção desse óleo, pretendeu-se avaliar o potencial desse extrato como corante natural, visando o tingimento de tecidos de algodão. Para caracterização do resíduo efluente e do corante natural dele obtido, foram realizadas avaliações físicas e químicas, tais como: teor de sólidos, pH, densidade, teor de taninos condensados e medição de cor mediante análises espectrofotométricas. Na avaliação do potencial do resíduo efluente como corante natural, foi realizado um estudo para determinação do método de tingimento de tecidos de algodão, através de diversos tratamentos que incluíram a alteração das variáveis de temperatura, tempo e concentração do corante natural. Nos tecidos tingidos, foi avaliada a solidez de cor à luz de arco de xenônio e à lavagem, através das normas da ABNT da CB 17 - Têxteis e Vestuário. O resíduo efluente e o corante natural apresentaram ambos pH ácido, teor de sólidos totais de 3,4 e 48,1 e teor de taninos condensados de 0,6 e 10,9 %, respectivamente. Em relação à cor dos extratos, ambos refletem a cor marrom. O resíduo efluente possui maiores valores de L*, a* e b* que o corante natural, e este aproxima-se da cor preta, devido aos valores de a* e b* serem próximos a zero. Os resultados obtidos no processo para a determinacao do método de tingimento, apresentaram uma grande variação entre os tratamentos propostos. A propriedade que mais variou nas cores dos tecidos tingidos foi o L*. Os valores de E* também variaram entre os tratamentos, sendo que, apenas o tratamento 9 foi considerado similar à referência 8, para essa propriedade. No tocante aos resultados de solidez de lavagem, as notas de alteração de cor foram de 3-4 para ambas as concentrações de corante nos tecidos tingidos. O manchamento do tecido multifibras foi, em geral, maior que 4 para ambas as concentrações. Para solidez de cor à luz, os tecidos tingidos tiveram alteração na ordem de 2-3 e 3, para concentração de 10% e 50 %, respectivamente. Em geral, os resultados de solidez demonstraram que o corante natural atingiu notas aceitáveis à industria têxtil e que o corante natural obtido a partir do resíduo efluente de folhas de C. citriodora possui potencial de uso no tingimento de algodão. / Currently, natural dyes are gaining interest in the society, creating a new market niche that values products obtained from natural raw materials, due to less damage to human health and the environment. A potential source for obtaining dye lies in industrial operation to obtain essential oil from eucalyptus leaves. It is a liquid waste generated in the distillation of the leaves, using water steam. A large volume of extract is generated and disposed as effluent of the process. Brazil is one of the worlds main producers of oil from eucalyptus leaves, especially Corymbia citriodora (formerly Eucalyptus), and there is, thus, significant potential for exploration of the effluent generated in the distillation of the leaves as raw material. With the support of a company in the oil production, it aimed to evaluate the potential of this extract as a natural dye, aiming at dyeing cotton. The characterization of waste effluent and natural dyestuff obtained was evaluated in terms of physical and chemical properties, such as total solids content, pH, density, condensed tannins content and color measurement by spectrophotometric analysis. In assessing the potential of the waste effluent as a natural dye, a study was conducted to determine the method of dyeing cotton, through various treatments which included changing variables such as temperature, time and concentration of natural dyestuff. In the dyed fabrics, it was evaluated the fastness properties of color in the light of a xenon arc and washing through the norms of the ABNT CB 17 - Textiles and Clothing. Both the waste effluent and the natural dyestuff presented an acid pH, total solids content of 3.4% and 48.1% and condensed tannin content of 0.6% and 10.9% respectively. Regarding the color of the extracts, both shown the brown color. The waste effluent had higher values of L*, a* b* than the natural dyestuff, and this was approximately to the black color, because the values of L*, a* b* were close to zero. The property with the larger variation in the colors of dyed fabrics was the L*. The values of E* also varied between treatments, with only treatment 9 was considered similar to reference 8, for this property. Concerning the results of washing fastness, the notes of color change were 3-4 for both concentrations of dye in dyed fabrics. The staining of the multi-fiber fabric was generally greater than 4 for both concentrations. For color fastness properties in light, dyed fabrics have the notes changed in the order of 2-3 and 3 for the concentrations 10% and 50%, respectively. In general, solidity results showed that natural dyestuff reached the acceptable notes for textile industry and the natural dyestuff obtained from waste effluent leaves of C. citriodora has a potential use as natural dyestuff in dyeing cotton.

Atualmente, os corantes naturais vêm ganhando maior interesse da sociedade, fazendo crescer um novo nicho de mercado, que valoriza produtos obtidos de matériasprimas naturais, devido aos menores danos causados à saúde humana e ao meio ambiente. Uma fonte potencial para obtenção de corantes encontra-se na operação industrial da obtenção de óleo essencial de folhas de eucalipto. Trata-se de um resíduo líquido gerado na etapa de destilação das folhas, mediante o emprego de vapor d´água. Um grande volume de extrato é gerado e descartado como efluente do processo. O Brasil é um dos principais produtores mundiais de óleo de folhas de eucalipto, sobretudo de Corymbia citriodora (ex Eucalyptus citriodora), havendo, desse modo, importante potencial de exploração do efluente gerado na destilação das folhas como matéria-prima. Contando com o apoio de uma empresa do setor de produção desse óleo, pretendeu-se avaliar o potencial desse extrato como corante natural, visando o tingimento de tecidos de algodão. Para caracterização do resíduo efluente e do corante natural dele obtido, foram realizadas avaliações físicas e químicas, tais como: teor de sólidos, pH, densidade, teor de taninos condensados e medição de cor mediante análises espectrofotométricas. Na avaliação do potencial do resíduo efluente como corante natural, foi realizado um estudo para determinação do método de tingimento de tecidos de algodão, através de diversos tratamentos que incluíram a alteração das variáveis de temperatura, tempo e concentração do corante natural. Nos tecidos tingidos, foi avaliada a solidez de cor à luz de arco de xenônio e à lavagem, através das normas da ABNT da CB 17 - Têxteis e Vestuário. O resíduo efluente e o corante natural apresentaram ambos pH ácido, teor de sólidos totais de 3,4 e 48,1 e teor de taninos condensados de 0,6 e 10,9 %, respectivamente. Em relação à cor dos extratos, ambos refletem a cor marrom. O resíduo efluente possui maiores valores de L*, a* e b* que o corante natural, e este aproxima-se da cor preta, devido aos valores de a* e b* serem próximos a zero. Os resultados obtidos no processo para a determinacao do método de tingimento, apresentaram uma grande variação entre os tratamentos propostos. A propriedade que mais variou nas cores dos tecidos tingidos foi o L*. Os valores de E* também variaram entre os tratamentos, sendo que, apenas o tratamento 9 foi considerado similar à referência 8, para essa propriedade. No tocante aos resultados de solidez de lavagem, as notas de alteração de cor foram de 3-4 para ambas as concentrações de corante nos tecidos tingidos. O manchamento do tecido multifibras foi, em geral, maior que 4 para ambas as concentrações. Para solidez de cor à luz, os tecidos tingidos tiveram alteração na ordem de 2-3 e 3, para concentração de 10% e 50 %, respectivamente. Em geral, os resultados de solidez demonstraram que o corante natural atingiu notas aceitáveis à industria têxtil e que o corante natural obtido a partir do resíduo efluente de folhas de C. citriodora possui potencial de uso no tingimento de algodão. / Currently, natural dyes are gaining interest in the society, creating a new market niche that values products obtained from natural raw materials, due to less damage to human health and the environment. A potential source for obtaining dye lies in industrial operation to obtain essential oil from eucalyptus leaves. It is a liquid waste generated in the distillation of the leaves, using water steam. A large volume of extract is generated and disposed as effluent of the process. Brazil is one of the worlds main producers of oil from eucalyptus leaves, especially Corymbia citriodora (formerly Eucalyptus), and there is, thus, significant potential for exploration of the effluent generated in the distillation of the leaves as raw material. With the support of a company in the oil production, it aimed to evaluate the potential of this extract as a natural dye, aiming at dyeing cotton. The characterization of waste effluent and natural dyestuff obtained was evaluated in terms of physical and chemical properties, such as total solids content, pH, density, condensed tannins content and color measurement by spectrophotometric analysis. In assessing the potential of the waste effluent as a natural dye, a study was conducted to determine the method of dyeing cotton, through various treatments which included changing variables such as temperature, time and concentration of natural dyestuff. In the dyed fabrics, it was evaluated the fastness properties of color in the light of a xenon arc and washing through the norms of the ABNT CB 17 - Textiles and Clothing. Both the waste effluent and the natural dyestuff presented an acid pH, total solids content of 3.4% and 48.1% and condensed tannin content of 0.6% and 10.9% respectively. Regarding the color of the extracts, both shown the brown color. The waste effluent had higher values of L*, a* b* than the natural dyestuff, and this was approximately to the black color, because the values of L*, a* b* were close to zero. The property with the larger variation in the colors of dyed fabrics was the L*. The values of E* also varied between treatments, with only treatment 9 was considered similar to reference 8, for this property. Concerning the results of washing fastness, the notes of color change were 3-4 for both concentrations of dye in dyed fabrics. The staining of the multi-fiber fabric was generally greater than 4 for both concentrations. For color fastness properties in light, dyed fabrics have the notes changed in the order of 2-3 and 3 for the concentrations 10% and 50%, respectively. In general, solidity results showed that natural dyestuff reached the acceptable notes for textile industry and the natural dyestuff obtained from waste effluent leaves of C. citriodora has a potential use as natural dyestuff in dyeing cotton.

Some people experience music as colourful patterns or feel it as a physical touch, they have synesthesia. A neurological condition in which a stimulus of one sense automatically and involuntarily triggers a sensation in another sense. This shows that perception is not normative. The aim of this work is to try to develop an understanding of this phenomenon by using textile dyeing and patchwork as a tool for my investigation of it. Another aim is to raise awareness and try to see if it is possible for a non synesthete to experience something similar to the complex intersensory connections as those with synesthesia have. The sum of all perceptions of a human, after it has been processed by their own mind, can result in something that is not just the sum of each individual perception, but something that can at the end be quite different from what  might be expected. This motivated the title, and furthermore leads naturally into the Gestalt theory of perception, which is used as the major theoretical framework for this paper.

This research was a minor field study that took place during eight weeks in Kathmandu, Nepal, with a research focus on the country’s dyeing industry. Methods like qualitative interviews, observation, and analyses through the connections to the UN’s sustainable development goals was used to meet the research aim and objectives. The objectives of the research were to clarify what areas that are slowing down and what areas are creating opportunities for sustainable development within the industry. To identify these areas could be one part of knowing how and where change has to be made to achieve a more sustainable dyeing industry in Nepal. There are mainly three different ways to work with dyeing in Nepal; AZO dyeing, AZO free dyeing, and natural dyeing. Each technique comes with different issues and benefits connected to them, some on a more socio-economic level and some health-related. The established industry is more or less a lawless industry, with an absence of knowledge about the connected environmental and health effects. Due to a rough history of poverty and natural disasters, the industry is until today neglected and the issues connected has not been prioritised.  Today the industry is driven by the market and at the same time anchored by governmental corruption and outdated methods, which makes it hard for the industry to build its value and to develop sustainably. This sector is connected to the UN’s sustainable development goals 4,6,9 &amp; 12 and their targets. However, today the industry awareness about the goals are low, and the lack of defined action in the government's plan for implementing the sustainable development goals states that they will not be a driving force towards a more sustainable dyeing industry. Awareness and customer demand is what is expected to move the industry towards a more sustainable future, according to the interviews. Nepal's dying industry does not have the bad reputation that other countries nearby have, which opens up for opportunities. But for the industry to be able to handle this opportunity, more accurate and a more in-depth research has to be made, to more clearly appreciate what the industry looks like today, since it is missing data. It would also mean that the government has to acknowledge the situation and clean up its act to make it easier for businesses to grow in a sustainable way. / <p>2018-06-08</p>

Tesis por compendio / [ES] La preocupación por la salud del planeta ha aumentado drásticamente y los efluentes textiles son de los más contaminantes en la industria a nivel mundial. Los procesos de ennoblecimiento textil y en especial los de tintorería, vierten grandes cantidades de residuos de difícil tratamiento como los colorantes. Las nanoarcillas pueden limpiar las aguas residuales de colorantes gracias a su capacidad de adsorción. En este trabajo fue posible analizar y cuantificar la cantidad de iones metálicos sustituidos por colorantes aniónicos cuando se adsorben, y determinar la cantidad óptima de nanoarcilla que debe utilizarse para adsorber todo el colorante. Las pruebas demostraron la cantidad específica de nanoarcilla que debe utilizarse y cómo optimizar los procesos posteriores de separación y procesamiento de la nanoarcilla. Se utilizó hidrotalcita como material adsorbente. En esta investigación se utilizaron diversos tipos colorantes, directos, reactivos, catiónicos y dispersos. Los patrones de difracción de rayos X (DRX) permitieron comprobar la recuperación de la forma de la hidrotalcita y confirmaron la adsorción de los colorantes. Se utilizó un análisis FTIR, XPS y EDX para comprobar la presencia de grupos característicos de los colorantes en los híbridos resultantes. Las pruebas termogravimétricas (TGA) corroboraron la adsorción del colorante y la mejora de la solidez térmica. La reflectancia solar total (TSR) mostró una mayor protección frente a la radiación UV-VIS-NIR. Gracias a los trabajos realizados, se ha podido establecer el punto máximo de adsorción de la hidrotalcita. Además, mediante la utilización de nanotecnologias han podido colorear sustratos textiles con nuevas técnicas de estampación aprovechando colorantes que se han desechado de baños de tintura no agotados. Las estampaciones obtenidas se someten a pruebas de solidez del color para compararlos con estampaciones más convencionales. Se realizaron mediciones del color mediante espectrofotómetros de reflexión para valorar el resultado del color tanto de los híbridos como de los textiles estampados exitosamente. Las pruebas de TGA-DTGA realizadas previamente a las estampaciones sobre los híbridos, permite adelantarse a los resultados de ciertas pruebas de solidez del color a la luz o el planchado, las cuales se ven mejoradas gracias a las acción de la hidrotalcita. Otro uso de las nanoarcillas híbridas obtenidas de la adsorción de colorantes es el de realizar nuevos baños de tintura para sustratos textiles. Mediante el uso del nanoadsorbente hidrotalcita, han logrado adsorber y recuperar colorantes de diferente carga como aniónicos, catiónicos y no iónicos para reutilizarlos de forma exitosa en nuevos baños de tintura. Las tinturas realizadas sobre tejidos de algodón, poliéster y acrílico han sido sometidas a diferentes pruebas de degradación del color para ver su viabilidad como productos finales, utilizando la espectroscopía de reflexión para la medida del atributo de color antes y después de los ensayos, mostrando resultados muy coherentes a los de una tintura convencional. / [CA] La preocupació per la salut del planeta ha augmentat dràsticament i els efluents tèxtils són dels més contaminants en la indústria a nivell mundial. Els processos d'ennobliment tèxtil i especialment els de tintoreria, aboquen grans quantitats de residus de difícil tractament com els colorants. Les nanoargiles poden netejar les aigües residuals de colorants gràcies a la seua capacitat d'adsorció. En aquest treball va ser possible analitzar i quantificar la quantitat d'ions metàl·lics substituïts per colorants aniònics quan es adsorben, i determinar la quantitat òptima de nanoarcilla que ha d'utilitzar-se per a adsorber tot el colorant. Les proves van demostrar la quantitat específica de nanoargila que ha d'utilitzar-se i com optimitzar els processos posteriors de separació i processament de la nanoargila. Es va utilitzar hidrotalcita com a material adsorbent. En aquesta investigació es van utilitzar diversos tipus colorants, directes, reactius, catiònics i dispersos. Els patrons de difracció de raigs X (DRX) van permetre comprovar la recuperació de la forma de la hidrotalcita i van confirmar l'adsorció dels colorants. Es va utilitzar una anàlisi FTIR, XPS i EDX per a comprovar la presència de grups característics dels colorants en els híbrids resultants. Les proves termogravimétricas (TGA) van corroborar l'adsorció del colorant i la millora de la solidesa tèrmica. La reflectància solar total (TSR) va mostrar una major protecció enfront de la radiació UV-VIS-NIR. Gràcies als treballs realitzats, s'ha pogut establir el punt màxim d'adsorció de la hidrotalcita. A més, mitjançant la utilització de nanotecnologies han pogut acolorir substrats tèxtils amb noves tècniques d'estampació aprofitant colorants que s'han rebutjat de banys de tintura no esgotats. Les estampacions obtingudes se sotmeten a proves de solidesa del color per a comparar-los amb estampacions més convencionals. Es van realitzar mesuraments del color mitjançant espectrofotòmetres de reflexió per a valorar el resultat del color tant dels híbrids com dels tèxtils estampats reeixidament. Les proves de TGA-DTGA realitzades prèviament a les estampacions sobre els híbrids, permet avançar-se als resultats d'unes certes proves de solidesa del color a la llum o el planxat, les quals es veuen millorades gràcies a les acció de la hidrotalcita. Un altre ús de les nanoargiles híbrides obtingudes de l'adsorció de colorants és el de realitzar nous banys de tintura per a substrats tèxtils. Mitjançant l'ús del nanoadsorbente hidrotalcita, han aconseguit adsorber i recuperar colorants de diferent càrrega com a aniònics, catiònics i no iònics per a reutilitzar-los de manera reeixida en nous banys de tintura. Les tintures realitzades sobre teixits de cotó, polièster i acrílic han sigut sotmeses a diferents proves de degradació del color per a veure la seua viabilitat com a productes finals, utilitzant la espectroscopía de reflexió per a la mesura de l'atribut de color abans i després dels assajos, mostrant resultats molt coherents als d'una tintura convencional. / [EN] Concern for the health of the planet has increased dramatically and textile effluents are among the most polluting in the industry worldwide. Textile finishing processes, especially dyeing, discharge large quantities of difficult-to-treat wastes such as dyestuffs. Nanoclays can clean wastewater of dyes thanks to their adsorption capacity. In this work it was possible to analyze and quantify the amount of metal ions substituted by anionic dyes when adsorbed, and to determine the optimum amount of nanoclay to be used to adsorb all the dye. The tests demonstrated the specific amount of nanoclay to be used and how to optimize the subsequent processes of separation and processing of the nanoclay. Hydrotalcite was used as the adsorbent material. Various types of dyes, direct, reactive, cationic and disperse dyes were used in this investigation. X-ray diffraction (XRD) patterns verified the recovery of the hydrotalcite form and confirmed the adsorption of the dyes. FTIR, XPS and EDX analysis were used to check the presence of characteristic groups of the dyes in the resulting hybrids. Thermogravimetric tests (TGA) corroborated dye adsorption and enhanced thermal robustness. Total solar reflectance (TSR) showed enhanced protection against UV-VIS-NIR radiation. Thanks to the work carried out, it was possible to establish the maximum adsorption point of hydrotalcite. In addition, by using nanotechnologies it is possible to color textile substrates with new printing techniques, taking advantage of dyes that have been discarded from dye baths that have not been exhausted. The prints obtained are subjected to color fastness tests to compare them with more conventional prints. Color measurements were performed using reflection spectrophotometers to assess the color performance of both hybrids and successfully printed textiles. The TGA-DTGA tests performed prior to printing on the hybrids allows to anticipate the results of certain color fastness tests to light or ironing, which are improved thanks to the action of the hydrotalcite. Various types of dyes, direct, reactive, cationic and disperse dyes were used in this investigation. X-ray diffraction (XRD) patterns verified the recovery of the hydrotalcite form and confirmed the adsorption of the dyes. FTIR, XPS and EDX analysis were used to check the presence of characteristic groups of the dyes in the resulting hybrids. Thermogravimetric tests (TGA) corroborated dye adsorption and enhanced thermal robustness. Total solar reflectance (TSR) showed enhanced protection against UV-VIS-NIR radiation. Thanks to the work carried out, it was possible to establish the maximum adsorption point of hydrotalcite. In addition, by using nanotechnologies it is possible to color textile substrates with new printing techniques, taking advantage of dyes that have been discarded from dye baths that have not been exhausted. The prints obtained are subjected to color fastness tests to compare them with more conventional prints. Color measurements were performed using reflection spectrophotometers to assess the color performance of both hybrids and successfully printed textiles. The TGA-DTGA tests performed prior to printing on the hybrids allows to anticipate the results of certain color fastness tests to light or ironing, which are improved thanks to the action of the hydrotalcite. / López Rodríguez, D. (2023). Recuperación del colorante de aguas residuales textiles mediante nanoarcillas para su reutilización como pigmentos y nuevos baños de tintura [Tesis doctoral]. Universitat Politècnica de València. https://doi.org/10.4995/Thesis/10251/194877 / Compendio

Les effluents industriels issus des activités de textile présentent souvent une importante charge polluante colorante difficilement biodégradable. Des travaux antérieurs ont montré le potentiel des argiles naturelles non traitées à dépolluer ces effluents teinturiers alors qu’ils sont généralement composés de colorants anioniques difficilement adsorbables sur ces supports. Or, les effluents contiennent également d’autres composés chimiques utilisés dans les différentes étapes du procédé de teinture, et qui sont de natures variées (sels, acides, bases, détergents, dérivés enzymatiques, etc…). Il semblerait que ces produits auxiliaires jouent un rôle dans l'adsorption de colorants anioniques sur l'argile non traitée. Cependant, aucune étude connue à ce jour, n'a porté sur l'effet des additifs de teinture dans le processus de décoloration par des absorbants en général, et par les argiles en particulier. Cette étude est la première à s’intéresser au système colorant-additif-argile. Des tests d’adsorption / désorption en batch ont été menés en considérant différents systèmes colorant-additif-argile. Les résultats des tests montrent que les additifs de type enzymatique favorisent l’adsorption de colorant anionique sur l’argile en neutralisant les charges négatives et en renforçant les liaisons argile-colorant. D’autres additifs ont un effet contraire mais n’annulent pas l’effet positif des additifs enzymatiques lorsqu’ils sont mélangés dans l’effluent. Des hypothèses d’interactions mises en jeu lors de l’adsorption de colorant ont été faites en s’aidant des résultats de la spectrométrie infra-rouge et de masse, de la zétamétrie et de la modélisation des isothermes d’adsorption. / Industrial effluents from textile activities often have a high pollution load readily biodegradable. Previous work has shown the potential of natural untreated clays to clean up these dyers effluents although anionic dyes are not easily absorbable on these media. The effluents also contain other chemical compounds used in the different stages of the dyeing process, and which are of various natures (salts, acids, bases, detergents, enzyme derivatives, etc ...). It appears that these auxiliary products play a role in the adsorption of anionic dyes on untreated clay. However, no currently known study has examined the effect of the additives from the dyeing process on the adsorption of dye onto clay. This is the first study to focus on the dye-clay-additive system. Adsorption / desorption batch tests were conducted considering different dye additive-clay systems. The tests’ results show that the enzyme like additives enhance the adsorption of anionic dye on the clay by neutralizing the negative charges and reinforcing clay-dye links. Other additives have the opposite effect, but do not offset the positive effect of enzyme like additives when mixed in the effluent. Assumptions of interactions involved in dye adsorption were made with the help of the results of infrared and mass spectrometry, zetametry and the modeling of adsorption isotherms.