This thesis explores the desirability of Australia???s State museums to be inclusive of diverse cultures. In keeping with a cultural studies approach, and a commitment to social action, emphasis is placed upon enhancing the ability of State museums to fulfil obligations and expectations imposed upon them as modern collecting institutions in a culturally diverse nation. By relating the desirability and ability of State museums to attaining social justice in a multicultural Australia through broadening the concept of Australia???s heritage, the thesis is firmly situated within post-colonial discourse. The thesis analyses State multicultural, heritage, and museum legislation, in New South Wales, Victoria, and Queensland, with regard to State museums as agents of cultural policy. Results from a survey, Greeks and Museums, conducted amongst Australia???s Greeks in Sydney, Melbourne and Brisbane, reveal an anomaly between their museum-going habits and the perception of those habits as expressed by government policies promoting the inclusion of Australians of a non-English speaking background in the nation???s cultural programmes. In exploring the issue of inclusiveness, the thesis highlights the need for cultural institutions to shift the emphasis away from audience development, towards greater audience participation. The thesis outlines an initiative-derived Queensland Model for establishing an inclusive relationship between museums and communities, resulting in permanent, affordable, and authoritative collections, while simultaneously improving the museums??? international reputation and networking capabilities. By using the example of one of the nation???s non-indigenous communities, and drawing upon material obtained through the survey, and a catalogue containing photographs and lists of Greek textile collections found in the Powerhouse Museum (MAAS), Sydney, the National Gallery of Victoria and the Immigration Museum, Melbourne, the Queensland Art Gallery and the Queensland Museum, Brisbane, as well as collections owned by private individuals, the thesis focuses on the role played by museums in constructing social cohesion and inclusiveness.

Gāpatia i Fa'anoanoaga is a general Samoan expression which literally means 'burden with sadness', which encompasses all aspects of loss and grief in relation to the burden of obligation to reciprocity. This project has functioned as lightening the load of the burden of grief and loss through the process of making an art installation exploring a migrant Samoan experience.My project is concerned with the exploration of Samoan matters of cultural significance such as heritage, religion, identity and family, in particular those customs pertaining to deaths and funerals. The mores and values implicit in these reflect the fundamental aspects of obligation and reciprocity in Samoan life and society. As a Samoan-born and New Zealand raised woman, my work and explorations tended to engage with the challenges of disrupting boundaries formed around ideas of cultural appropriation and cultural authenticity.Therefore this project investigates my position as a migrant Samoan living in New Zealand exploring notions of mobility and globalisation and the effects on the obligation to reciprocity through practical art means. Importantly my art practice intends to explore and position the installation of contemporary materials to speak metaphorically about my identity and issues significant to the obligation to reciprocity in the fa'aSamoa (the Samoan way or in the manner of the Samoans; according to Samoan customs and traditions) particularly the concept tautua aiga (tautua means functions or any service performed in order to support aiga or family)Conceptually my work addresses and brings forth for consideration the impact of mobility and globalisation on cultural issues and practices. Through engagement with contemporary materials and processes my work reflects a kind of 'story-telling', which in this instance is a lament for those who have passed on and for a way of life that is in flux

Th.--Hist. de l'art et archéol.--Montpellier 3, 1988.

Th. doct.-ing.--Lille 1, 1977. N°: 205.

Την τελευταία δεκαετία, η επεξεργασία υφασμάτων με πλάσμα έχει αποκτήσει μεγάλο τεχνολογικό ενδιαφέρον καθώς μπορεί να χρησιμοποιηθεί σε διάφορα στάδια της επεξεργασίας. Η οξείδωση της επιφάνειας, η ενίσχυση της υδροφιλίας ή της υδροφοβικότητας της και η αντιμικροβιακή δράση, είναι κάποια παραδείγματα τέτοιων εφαρμογών. Τα πλεονεκτήματα της τεχνικής του πλάσματος σε σύγκριση με άλλες τεχνικές είναι ότι είναι φιλική προς το περιβάλλον και ταυτόχρονα οικονομική αφού μειώνει τις απαιτήσεις σε νερό και ενέργεια. Παρόλα αυτά δεν υπάρχουν στη βιβλιογραφία επαρκείς μελέτες σχετικά με τους βασικούς μηχανισμούς που διέπουν τη διεργασία. Σε αυτή την κατεύθυνση επικεντρώσαμε στη μελέτη της επίδρασης του πλάσματος He/O2 σε χαμηλές πιέσεις με στόχο την ενίσχυση της υδροφιλίας της επιφάνειας, στη διερεύνηση της επίδρασης του C2F6 πλάσματος για την ενίσχυση της υδροφοβικότητας καθώς και στο σχηματισμό PEO-like υμενίων για την βελτίωση της αντιμικροβιακής δράσης της επιφάνειας. Πιο συγκεκριμένα, μελετήθηκε η επίδραση του ποσοστού οξυγόνου στο μείγμα του αερίου, του χρόνου επεξεργασίας, της συνολικής πίεσης και της ισχύος του πλάσματος στην μεταβολή των επιφανειακών ιδιοτήτων και κυρίως στην ενίσχυση της υδροφιλικότητας πολυεστερικών υφασμάτων πριν και μετά από το αποκολλάρισμα τους. Για τη μελέτη της υδροφοβικότητας πραγματοποιήθηκαν πειράματα ως προς την συνολική πίεση, το χρόνο διεργασίας και την απόσταση των ηλεκτροδίων. Τέλος, για την ενίσχυση της αντιμικροβιακής δράσης της επιφάνειας μελετήθηκε η συνολική πίεση, η ισχύς καθώς και το ποσοστό του οξυγόνου στο μίγμα. Οι αλλαγές που λαμβάνουν χώρα στην αέρια φάση και ο πιθανότερος μηχανισμός στον οποίο οφείλονται οι αλλαγές στην επιφάνεια του υποστρώματος μελετήθηκαν με την εφαρμογή διαγνωστικών τεχνικών του πλάσματος. Έτσι ηλεκτρικές μετρήσεις πραγματοποιήθηκαν για τον υπολογισμό της καταναλισκόμενης ισχύος και της εμπέδησης της εκκένωσης ενώ παράλληλα, πραγματοποιήθηκαν οπτικές μετρήσεις με στόχο την καταγραφή των ειδών που παράγονται στην εκκένωση και την κατανομή τους στον χώρο. Από την άλλη μεριά για τη μελέτη των δομικών και φυσικοχημικών μεταβολών που υφίσταται η επιφάνεια κατά την επεξεργασία της με πλάσμα χρησιμοποιήθηκαν ηλεκτρονιακή μικροσκοπία σάρωσης και φασματοσκοπία φωτοηλεκτρονίων από ακτίνες Χ. Τέλος, μετρήσεις του ρυθμού απορρόφησης σταγόνας, γωνίες αδιαβροχίας και προσρόφηση πρωτεϊνών χρησιμοποιήθηκαν ως μέτρο εκτίμησης της υδροφιλίας, της υδροφοβικότητας και της αντιμικροβιακής δράσης αντίστοιχα. Τα βέλτιστα αποτελέσματα παρουσιάζονται και συζητούνται σαν συνάρτηση των ιδιοτήτων του πλάσματος / The last decade, the treatment of polyester textiles using plasma techniques has gained a lot of technological interest. The surface oxidation, the enhancement of hydrophilicity/hydrophobicity and the deposition of antibacterial films are examples of technological plasma applications. The benefits of using the plasma techniques are enormous. The major ones are that is an environmental friendly method and at the same time is economical due to the reduction of energy and water consumption. Although, in the bibliography there are not sufficient studies relevant to the basic mechanism of the plasma treatment/deposition. In this direction, we focused our study on the effect of plasma He/O2 treatment in low values of pressure, targeting the enhancement of surface hydrophilicity, on the deposition conditions of Teflon-like and peo-like films, targeting the enhancement of hydrophobicity and antibacterial effect respectively. In more details, it was examined the effect of oxygen percentage in He/O2 mixture, the discharge time, the total pressure and the power in the alteration of surface properties. Furthermore, experiments were implemented in different pressure, discharge time, power and distance electrode conditions in order to achieve better hydrophobicity. At last, as far as the deposition of peo-like coatings were concerned, power, pressure and oxygen percentage were parameters under investigation. The alterations which took place in the gas phase and the most possible treatment/deposition mechanism were studied using diagnostic techniques such as electrical and optical measurements. On the other hand, for the investigation of physicochemical alterations on the surface, measurements such as xps, water droplet absorption and WCA were implemented. The best results are presented and are discussed as a function of plasma properties.

Giving textiles form is a project in textile design exploring how textiles can create self-supporting three-dimensional forms with after finishing techniques. The project focuses on the textile to be self-supporting, by working against and challenging the properties of a textile fabric. The motive for the project is to widen the definition of what a textile can do. The methods of origami and traditional Japanese wood joinery are used to find a functioning and durable construction, as well as manipulating the textiles with colour and after finishing techniques. The result of this work is three coloured textile forms that are three-dimensional and self-supporting, the use of colour strengthens the depth and adds a spatial dimension. This work contributes to broaden the field of textile design by expanding the use of textile.

Great changes characterized the mid- to late nineteenth century in the field of dye chemistry, including many innovations in the production of colours across the spectrum, especially the development of synthetic dyes from coal-tar aniline. From 1840 to 1875, textile manufacturers offered a wide variety of colourful dress textiles to female fashion consumers in both Great Britain and the United States. Middle-class women were urged to educate themselves about dyeing, science, and colour, while cultivating appropriate, moderate attention to fashion in dress. This thesis examines the mid-nineteenth century relationship of fashion, dye chemistry, and everyday science, exploring consumers’ responses to these phenomena of modernity. Paying special attention to the appreciation of chemistry and colour theory during the period, this project considers how the development of new dyes affected middle-class uses and discussions of colours in women’s dress.

La thèse vise à identifier, développer et tester des matériaux isolants à partir de déchets textiles, le rôle de l'isolation thermique des tuyaux. Visant à accroître la performance énergétique de chauffage et avec un impact environnemental réduit. Etude théorique était d'identifier les propriétés matériau d'isolation thermique, la classification sur le marché utilisé dans l'isolation thermique des méthodes de test national et international. Pour tester les propriétes thermiques ont été menées deux installations de laboratoire. Dans un premier temps l'installation, afin de déterminer la conductivité thermique, le flux thermique de la chaleur est produite par une résistance électrique. Ont été réalisés et testés structurellement différents des matériaux de densité (coton, la laine et le tissu non tissé) de la température maximale de 90C dans la canalisation. Le rôle de ces essais était de déterminer la densité et le comportement optimal à des températures différentes. Une deuxième installation est effectuée sur un cas réel (une tuyauterie isolée thermique avec a) la flux thermique de la chaleur est générée par le fluide (de l'eau). Un conducteur testé dans trois situations : tuyaux non isolés, tuyau isolé et le tuyau PUR isolé non tissé. Tous les tests étaient en faveur de la non tissé. L'analyse statistique a montré que la température et la densité sont des facteurs importants qui influent sur la conductibilité thermique des tissus. / The thesis aims at identifying, developing and testing of insulation materials from waste textiles, the role in thermal insulation of pipes. Aiming at increasing the energy performance of heating and with a reduced environmental impact. Theoretical study was to identify thermal insulating material properties, classification on the market used in thermal insulation of national and international and the testing methods. To test the thermal properties were conducted two laboratory facilities. At first installation, to determine the thermal conductivity, the thermal flow of heat flux is generated by electrical resistance. Were made and tested structurally different density materials (cotton, wool and non-woven fabric) with maximum temperature of 90C in the pipeline. The role of these tests was to identify the optimum density and behavior at different temperatures. A second installation is performed on a real case (an installation with a thermal insulated pipe) the thermal flow of heat is generated by the fluid (water). A conductive tested in three situations: non-insulated pipes, insulated pipe and pipe PUR insulated non-woven fabric. All tests were in favor of non-woven fabric. The statistical analysis showed that the temperature and density are significant factors that influence the thermal conductivity of fabrics.

According to current models, 19th century American quilts are presented as simple objects of cultural heritage or considered for their similarities to other forms of modern art. This thesis follows a three part approach in order to study these objects which are valuable sources of historical information in their full context. This approach includes the historical, social/aesthetic, and material contexts of the objects. The topic of the study is the quilts of the Bethel and Aurora colonies, 19th century Christian "utopian" sects in Missouri and Oregon. While societies such as the Bethel and Aurora colonies shunned many aspects of modernization, quilts appear to be an area of connection with the outside world. The quilts serve as material evidence for the tension between communal and secular worldviews in the colonies.

Memoria para optar al título de Diseñador Gráfico / El presente proyecto realiza una puesta en valor y una resignificación de las principales iconografías presentes en al arte textil mapuche, rescatando su lenguaje histórico y simbólico, además de su fuerte capacidad de representación. Esto con el fin de elaborar un conjunto de piezas constructivas –teniendo como instrumento piezas cerámicas– capaces de habitar el espacio urbano, como recurso simbólico y conceptual que aluda a la devolución y ocupación de territorios metafóricos. Estas piezas interactúan en el espacio de manera autónoma y como parte de él. Además, de forma estética y discursiva, plantean a la comunidad el problema de la integración y el patrimonio. Estas cerámicas se transforman en una suerte de ofrenda visual para rescatar, conservar y comprender la importancia de los pueblos originarios en la construcción de una identidad nacional y lo vital de su inclusión para avanzar como sociedad.