This thesis aims to find a definition of fast-selling clothing options and to find a way to predict them using only a few weeks of sale data as input. The data used for this project contain daily sales and intake quantity for seasonal options, with sale start 2016-2018, provided by the department store chain Åhléns. A definition is found to describe fast-selling clothing options as those having sold a certain percentage of their intake after a fixed number of days. An alternative definition based on cluster affiliation is proven less effective. Two predictive models are tested, the first one being a probabilistic classifier and the second one being a k-nearest neighbor classifier, using the Euclidean distance. The probabilistic model is divided into three steps: transformation, clustering, and classification. The time series are transformed with B-splines to reduce dimensionality, where each time series is represented by a vector with its length and B-spline coefficients. As a tool to improve the quality of the predictions, the B-spline vectors are clustered with a Gaussian mixture model where every cluster is assigned one of the two labels fast-selling or ordinary, thus dividing the clusters into disjoint sets: one containing fast-selling clusters and the other containing ordinary clusters. Lastly, the time series to be predicted are assumed to be Laplace distributed around a B-spline and using the probability distributions provided by the clustering, the posterior probability for each class is used to classify the new observations. In the transformation step, the number of knots for the B-splines are evaluated with cross-validation and the Gaussian mixture models, from the clustering step, are evaluated with the Bayesian information criterion, BIC. The predictive performance of both classifiers is evaluated with accuracy, precision, and recall. The probabilistic model outperforms the k-nearest neighbor model with considerably higher values of accuracy, precision, and recall. The performance of each model is improved by using more data to make the predictions, most prominently with the probabilistic model.

This thesis aims to investigate sustainable apparel purchasing habits from customers’ perspective with an emphasis on attitude-behaviour towards the phenomenon. Furthermore, the possible attitude-behaviour gaps are detected throughout the research, illustrating dissimilarities in sustainable apparel consumption and discrepancies between actual purchasing action and consumer attitude. The study analyses Swedish consumption patterns, within Millennials and Generation X consumers by using a qualitative research strategy, where participants have the ability to express their perceptions on the concept and evaluate on their post-purchases. Two chosen models are used as fundamental pillars in understanding essential purchasing actions. The findings contribute to the models while also develop theories based on them.

A sustentabilidade do planeta é responsabilidade coletiva e ações para melhorar o ambiente global são necessárias e implicam na adoção de práticas de produção e consumo sustentáveis. O desenvolvimento da Indústria Têxtil e Confecção incorpora tecnologias nos campos das ciências físicas, químicas e biológicas necessárias às atividades do setor, desde a obtenção da matéria-prima, produção de fios e tecidos e, seus respectivos acabamentos, consumindo grandes quantidades de recursos e energia. O Desenvolvimento Sustentável ao expandir o foco econômico para as dimensões ambiental e social dos processos de produção e serviços originou uma visão sistêmica dos inputs e outputs do processo produtivo e suas consequências ambientais, estruturando o conceito de ciclo de vida do produto (ACV). O objetivo desse estudo é avaliar o ciclo de vida de uma calça feminina confeccionada em malha de poliamida, utilizada como uniforme do ensino médio estadual no Paraná, do berço ao túmulo, com 3 possibilidades de descarte. Foi realizado um estudo de caso para verificar a viabilidade de aplicação da ferramenta ACV para avaliação do impacto ambiental do produto final por meio do software LCA SimaPro8.1.16Faculty. A coleta de dados foi realizada por meio de questionário, baseado nas diretrizes da NBR ISO 14040 que determinam as fases e procedimentos gerais da execução de um estudo de ACV, para identificar a estrutura produtiva da empresa de confecção permitindo o levantamento quantitativo de dados referentes ao processo produtivo, a identificação das entradas e saídas de materiais e energia elétrica e, a quantificação dos resíduos gerados. Algumas informações foram retiradas do banco de dados de inventários de processos disponíveis no software utilizado para este estudo. A avaliação do ciclo de vida da calça de poliamida foi baseada no Manual do Sistema Internacional de Referência de Dados sobre o ciclo de vida de produtos e processos (ILCD). A tabulação dos dados do produto foi realizada no software SimaPro8.1.16Faculty. A base de dados de inventário selecionada foi a Ecoinvent v.2 e, para realização da análise de impacto foi adotado o método de impacto gerado Eco-indicator 99. O software LCA SimaPro 8.1.16 Faculty mostrou-se ferramenta eficiente para a realização da avaliação do ciclo de vida da calça de poliamida com os três cenários de descarte, permitindo a análise dos impactos ao nível da categoria de danos para a saúde humana, qualidade do ecossistema e recursos e, possibilitando a análise da carga ambiental por categoria de impacto, de acordo com o que propõe a ISO 14042 sobre os elementos de seleção de definição de categorias para a fase de Avaliação / The sustainability of the planet is collective responsibility and actions to improve the global environment are necessary and imply the adoption of sustainable production and consumption practices. Development of Textile and Confection incorporates technologies in the fields of physical, chemical and biological sciences necessary to the sector\'s activities, from obtaining the raw material, production of yarn and fabric and their finishes, consuming large amounts of resources and energy . Sustainable Development to expand economic focus to environmental and social dimensions of production processes and services led to a systemic view of the inputs and outputs of the production process and its environmental consequences, structuring the concept of product life cycle (LCA). The aim of this study is to evaluate the life cycle of a woman\'s pants made of polyamide fabric, used as a uniform average state school in Parana, from cradle to grave, with 3 possibilities for disposal. A case study was performed to verify the application feasibility of LCA tool for assessing the environmental impact of the final product through ACL SimaPro 8.1.16 Faculty software. Data collection was conducted through a questionnaire, based on the guidelines of ISO 14040 which determine the general phases and procedures of the execution of an LCA study, to identify the productive structure of the clothing firm allowing the quantitative survey data for the production process, the identification of the inputs and outputs of materials and energy, and the quantification of waste generated. Some information was taken from the inventory database processes available in the software used for this study. The evaluation of the polyamide trousers life cycle was based on the International System Manual Data Reference on the lifecycle of products and processes (ILCD). Tabulation of the product data was performed in SimaPro8.1.16Faculty software. The selected inventory database was Ecoinvent v.2 and to perform impact analysis was adopted impact generated method Eco-indicator 99. The LCA SimaPro 8.1.16 Faculty software was efficient tool for the realization of assessment of the life cycle of the polyamide pants with three disposal scenarios, allowing the analysis of impacts on the category of damage to human health, ecosystem quality and resources, enabling the analysis of environmental load by impact category, according to which it proposed to ISO 14042 on the selection of elements to define categories for the phase evaluation

Fashion and apparel retail firms have been scrutinized over the past few years regarding the regular occurrence of precarious labor conditions and slave labor in firms composing their supply chains. Even though this phenomenon presents many issues that comprise the theoretical scope of the institutional economics field of literature, scarce contributions have been found using this literature applied in this sector. From this starting point, this thesis combines theoretical and empirical efforts to develop a analytical framework grounded in institutional economics to observe the issues and propose solutions to ethical concerns regarding precarious labor conditions and contemporary slavery in fashion and apparel retail, in terms of institutional change. The overall methodological approach of the thesis is exploratory and qualitative, developed in four different but interconnected papers that comprise the development chapters of the thesis. The first two papers are theoretical, and combine contributions from four key literature backgrounds regarding our theme: business ethics, institutional economics, labor conditions and fashion and apparel retail. These were used to compose a theoretical proposition and a preliminary framework. The last two papers are empirical, both used to clarify the understanding over the proposed analytical framework. As a result, these empirical papers provide novel and contemporary evidence concerning the practices implemented by private and public agents in order to reduce and eradicate precarious labor conditions in this sector, and how they relate between each other, supporting and giving feedback, in terms of institutional change. The overall contribution of this thesis is to propose a novel approach, with analytical framework and propositions, to issues concerning labor conditions in fashion and apparel retail, as well as extending the scope of institutional change analysis to this contemporary phenomenon. / As empresas do varejo de moda e vestuário têm passado por grande pressão e escrutínio nos últimos anos em relação à ocorrência regular de condições precárias de trabalho e trabalho análogo ao escravo em firmas que compõem suas cadeias de suprimentos. Embora esse fenômeno apresente muitas questões que compõem o escopo teórico do campo da economia institucional, foram encontradas apenas contribuições escassas com esta literatura aplicada neste setor. A partir desse ponto inicial, a presente tese combina esforços teóricos e empíricos para desenvolver um arcabouço analítico fundamentado na economia institucional para observar as questões e propor soluções para as preocupações éticas sobre condições precárias de trabalho e escravidão contemporânea no varejo de moda e vestuário, em termos de mudança institucional. A abordagem metodológica geral da tese é exploratória e qualitativa, desenvolvida em quatro trabalhos diferentes, mas interligados, que compõem os capítulos de desenvolvimento da tese. Os dois primeiros artigos são teóricos e combinam contribuições de quatro arcabouços chave de literatura quanto ao nosso tema: ética empresarial, economia institucional, condições de trabalho e varejo de moda e vestuário. Estes temas foram utilizados para compor uma proposição teórica e um quadro analítico preliminar. Os dois últimos artigos são empíricos, ambos usados para esclarecer o entendimento sobre o quadro analítico proposto. Como resultado, esses trabalhos empíricos fornecem evidências novas e contemporâneas sobre as práticas implementadas por agentes públicos e privados para reduzir e erradicar condições precárias de trabalho neste setor e como elas se relacionam entre si, apoiando e fornecendo feedback, em termos de mudança institucional. A contribuição global desta tese é propor uma abordagem inovadora, com um quadro analítico e proposições, à questões relativas às condições de trabalho no varejo da moda e do vestuário, bem como ampliar o escopo da análise da mudança institucional para este fenômeno contemporâneo.

Made available in DSpace on 2016-08-10T10:40:18Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 ARI FRANCO ROMEIRO ALVES QUEIROZ.pdf: 527006 bytes, checksum: ae309eb207a7ec6bfcda674df0413f03 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2012-10-26 / Como antecedentes a Frâncole, desde sua fundação em 17 de maio de 2002, vinha crescendo no mercado com sua produção desorganizada, o aprendizado era lento e empírico, faltavam normas de conduta e atribuição de responsabilidades, faltavam ferramentas para otimização do sistema de produção. A empresa utilizava várias ferramentas com pouca integração. Em 2009 e 2010 as vendas da empresa sofreram estagnação em seu crescimento em torno de sete por cento (7%), determinando a busca de novas ferramentas antes que a empresa apresentasse prejuízo. As lideranças da empresa assumiram, então, o propósito de buscar a Universidade a fim de aprender tais ferramentas de trabalho. Assim sendo, através do conhecimento adquirido, o esforço educacional resultou na concepção desta dissertação de mestrado cujo objetivo geral deste trabalho é determinar e evidenciar a aplicação dos princípios do Just in Time combinados com ferramentas de otimização de sistemas às práticas organizacionais de uma indústria do setor de confecções, localizada em Goiás, promovendo o seu crescimento. A metodologia utilizada na pesquisa foi a pesquisa-ação, unindo o conhecimento adquirido na pesquisa a ação prática e vice-versa. A estruturação da produção na empresa foi principalmente baseada no programa de eliminação de desperdícios, no controle da qualidade total e na implantação de uma metodologia de programação e ordenamento da produção baseada em otimização linear. Através das iniciativas de melhorias implantadas na indústria a empresa gerou vários resultados e benefícios como: melhora no fluxo de produção, redução de custos, redução dos estoques de matérias primas e produtos acabados, aumento da motivação, melhoria do aprendizado, aumento da qualidade e produtividade e aumento das vendas. Quanto às considerações finais deste trabalho destaca-se que os objetivos foram atingidos, a empresa está mais limpa, organizada, crescendo e melhorando continuamente segundo os princípios adotados.

Esta pesquisa tem como objetivo central apresentar e analisar diferentes aspectos da busca por melhores condições de vida por parte dos imigrantes bolivianos que se dedicam à costura na Região Metropolitana de São Paulo. Desse modo, o cerne da discussão desenvolvida ao longo dos três capítulos que compõe esta dissertação foi que, após migrarem para o Brasil, o trabalho em confecção precário e mal remunerado tem se mostrado incapaz de, isoladamente, proporcionar uma situação de vida satisfatória a grande parte desses imigrantes e, como resposta, recentemente, imigrantes bolivianos tem assumindo uma postura mais atuante e se organizaram em cooperativas e associações, firmaram parcerias e conseguiram apoio de ONGs, sindicatos e outras entidades para reivindicar direitos e garantias. Nesse sentido, nossa hipótese é que as manifestações promovidas pelos imigrantes que tomaram as ruas de São Paulo simbolizam avanço da participação social da comunidade boliviana na cidade. Essas questões foram trabalhadas a partir de uma divisão heurística tripartite formada pela imigração, o trabalho e as reivindicações em prol de direitos, garantias e melhorias nos âmbitos social, político, legal e simbólico que corresponderia à base da busca por melhores condições de vida no interior desse grupo. / This research has as main objective present and analyze the pursuit for better conditions of life by the Bolivian immigrants who work at apparel industries in the Metropolitan Region of São Paulo. Thus, the central point of the discussion developed over the three chapters that compose this dissertation was that after migrating to Brazil, the work in apparel workshop precarious and poorly paid has been alone unable to provide a satisfactory life situation for the great majority of these immigrants. Recently, in response Bolivian immigrants have taken a more active stance and organized themselves into cooperatives, associations, partnerships have been signed, and support achieved from several NGOs, trade unions and others to claim rights and guarantees. In this sense, our hypothesis is that the protests promoted by immigrants that took place into São Paulos streets symbolize an advancement of social participation of the Bolivian community in the city. We addressed these questions from a heuristic tripartite division formed by immigration, work and claims in favor of rights, safeguards and improvements in, political, legal, social and symbolic spheres that correspond to the base of the pursuit for better conditions of life within that group.

Purpose: Finding which resources and capabilities are deployed among Istanbul-based apparel manufacturers, evaluating to what extent they are tangible, intangible as well as capabilities as well as lastly analysing them according to the valuable, rare, inimitable and non-substitutable framework. Design/methodology: The research design consists of a case study held at several firms. Empirical data was collected using semi-structured interviews. Empirical data: Empirical data was primarily collected at nine different apparel manufacturers within the greater Istanbul region. Conclusion: Conclusions show that within the bundles of resources and capabilities, a large variation was noted with high international competitiveness. However there are areas such as design and quality which could be continuously developed among firms. In the end, whatever bundle of resources and capabilities a firm has, it’s the end price that speaks. / Program: Textilekonomutbildningen

Det blir allt svårare för företag att särskilja sig på marknaden. Traditionell marknadsföring är inte längre lika effektiv som förr, och idag finns flera olika strategier för att sticka ut i bruset. Kring varumärken och produkter skapas ofta ett rykte, som ibland antingen kan vara positivt eller negativt. Ibland har detta rykte uppkommit utan påverkan ifrån företaget, men det finns även strategier för att skapa och påverka sitt eget rykte. Ett positivt rykte kan leda till ökad försäljning och vinst. Syftet med denna studie är att undersöka hur företag kan arbeta aktivt med denna typ av ryktesspridning, det vill säga Word of Mouth. Vi vill även undersöka om Word of Mouth behöver kompletteras med andra marknadsföringsstrategier, eller om den ensam är tillräcklig.Tidigare forskning har framför allt behandlat vad som påverkar konsumenter att sprida ett rykte. Buzz Marketing, som kan definieras som ett aktivt arbete med Word of Mouth, är ett område som fortfarande är relativt outforskat. Desto mindre forskning har gjorts med konfektionsbranschen som undersökningsområde. Därav ligger det i vårt intresse att studera denna del av marknaden. Inom den berörda teorin nämns vikten av att arbeta med ryktesspridning, både genom att generera positiv Word of Mouth, samt förhindra negativ Word of Mouth. Det finns olika strategier företag kan använda sig av för att bidra till positiv ryktesspridning, där den enklaste formen är att be nöjda kunder föra ryktet vidare till sin omgivning. Andra former som kräver mer aktivitet från företagets sida är att tillverka tilläggsprodukter, anordna fester samt olika typer av marknadsföringsprojekt.Till vår undersökning har vi genomfört intervjuer med utvalda företag inom konfektions- och skobranschen. Dessa är Dr Denim Jeansmakers, The Stray Boys, Ljung, Tailor Store och SCDG AB. Empirin behandlar hur dessa företag aktivt arbetar med Word of Mouth och hur de ser på denna typ av ryktesspridning. De intervjuade företagen berättar om de tror att Word of Mouth är en god marknadsföringsstrategi, eller om den är otillräcklig.Det finns flera sätt att se på Word of Mouth och att arbeta med ryktesspridning. De intervjuade företagen arbetar förhållandevis lite med denna marknadsföringsstrategi och endast ett fåtal kan ge konkreta exempel på metoder de använder sig av. Dock visar både teori och empiri på vikten av att arbeta med ryktesspridning och att minska negativt Word of Mouth. Flera av de intervjuade företagen bevisar att enbart arbeta med Word of Mouth räcker som marknadsföring, dock är detta tydligt kopplat till företagets vision, målgrupp och storlek. Huruvida effekten av Word of Mouth går att mäta eller ej råder det delade meningar om. Vissa hävdar att det går att förlita sig på trafik på websidor och ökad försäljning, andra hävdar att detta är otillräckligt då effekten inte isoleras. Ett konkret mätinstrument existerar inte.It has become more difficult for companies to differentiate themselves on the market. Traditional marketing is no longer as effective as before, and today there are several different strategies companies can use to stand out. Reputations often occur about brands and products. This reputation can be either positive or negative. Sometimes, this reputation occurs without influence from the company, but there are several strategies for companies to use to create and shape its reputation. A positive reputation can lead to increased sales and profits. The purpose of this study is to examine how companies can actively pursue this kind of rumor-mongering - Word of Mouth. We also want to study if Word of Mouth needs to be supplemented with other marketing strategies or whether it is sufficient by itself.Previous research has mainly dealt with reasons why consumers spread rumors. Buzz Marketing, which can be defined as actively working with Word of Mouth, is an area in marketing that still is relatively unexplored. Even less research has been done with the clothing industry as a study area. Hence, it is in our interest to study this share of the market. The importance of working with the rumor mill is mentioned frequently in the theory, both by generating positive word of mouth, and how to prevent negative Word of Mouth. There are various strategies that companies can use to contribute to spreading of a positive reputation; the easiest way is to ask satisfied customers to spread the reputation about the brand to their surroundings. Other forms that require more activity by the company is to offer additional products, organizing parties and various types of marketing projects.In our study, we conducted interviews with selected companies in the apparel and footwear industry. These are Dr Denim Jeansmakers, The Stray Boys, Ljung, Tailor Store and SCDG AB. The empirical material deals with how these companies are actively working with Word of Mouth and what their perception of this kind of rumor mill is. The companies interviewed also gave their version of Word of Mouth and if they feel that it is a good marketing strategy, or if it is insufficient.There are several ways to look at Word of Mouth and work with the rumor mill. The companies we interviewed do not work with this type of marketing strategy in a large extent, and only a few can provide concrete examples of methods they use. However, both our theoretical and empirical work shows the importance of working with the rumor mill and reducing negative Word of Mouth. Several of the interviewed companies proves that only working with Word of Mouth can be sufficient, however, this is clearly linked to the company's vision, target market and size. There are different opinions about whether the effect of Word of Mouth can be measured or not. Some argue that it is possible to rely on traffic for websites and increased sales; others argue that this is not enough because the effect is not isolated. A concrete measurement tool does not exist. / Program: Textilekonomutbildningen

Detta är ett examensarbete inom textil produktutveckling som har sin grund hos uppdragsgivaren Bellaobastian. Syftet med rapporten är att ge en inblick i miljöarbetet i värdekedjan hos mindre konfektionsföretag, vilka svårigheter som kan förekomma och hur den hållbara utvecklingen kan effektiviseras. Vi vill ge mindre svenska konfektionsföretag råd och förslag om hur de kan uppnå en tillfredställande nivå på deras miljöarbete utan tillgång till enorma resurser.Vi har utfört intervjuer, litteraturstudier samt jämförelseanalyser mellan företagen H&M, ACNE och Lindex. Vid diskussion och analysarbetet var det tydligt att miljöarbete i värdekedjan är en komplex process och att det är flera aspekter som spelar in.Vi har kunnat identifiera åtgärder som företagen kan utföra i hopp om att uppnå en mer hållbar utveckling, både specifika som tex, materialval men även mer övergripande som att ändra sitt synsätt. Åtgärderna vi kunde påvisa kretsar kring:- Minska överkonsumtion och effektivisera resurssparandet- Minska koldioxidutsläppen- Använd miljöledningssystem och märkningar- Ändra företagets synsättEn av slutsatserna vi kunnat konstatera genom våra undersökningar är att det inte räcker med att åtgärda problemen. Företagen måste tex utöver detta även ha en kommunikation med konsumenterna kring deras hållbara utveckling annars får kunden svårt att göra medvetna val. Anledningen till att man vill ha en renare värdekedja spelar även in och ska baseras på rätt grunder och inte för att företaget vill erhålla nya marknadsandelar då detta lyser igenom och gör så att företaget tappar trovärdighet. En hållbar värdekedja är ett omfattande arbete och en svår utmaning för mindre företag, dock är det ingen omöjlighet. Oavsett storlek kan alla företag bidra till en hållbar utveckling.This is a degree project in Textile Technology involving collaboration with the Swedish fashion company Bellaobastian. The report aims to provide insight to the environmental activities surrounding the supply chain in small clothing companies, what difficulties that can occur and how the quest for more sustainable development can be more efficient. We want to give advice and suggestions to smaller Swedish clothing companies on how to reach a satisfactory level of their environmental work without access to huge resources. We have done interviews, literature studies and comparison assessments between companies such as H&M, ACNE and Lindex. In the discussions and assessments it was clear that environmental work in the supply chain is a complex process and that there is more than one aspect taking part. We managed to identify measures that the companies can carry out to achieve a more solid development, both specific choices like material as well as a more comprehensive choice like changing point on view. The measures we detected were: - Reduce excessive consumption and gets an effect from resource saving. - Reduce carbon dioxide emissions - Use environmental guide systems and labels - Change the companies' point of view on environmental efficiency One of the conclusions we stated through our research was that it isn't enough to "fix the problem". For example, they have to communicate with the customer and inform him/her about the commitment they have towards a sustainable development. Otherwise the customer can't make any conscious choices. The thought behind wanting a greener company should be based on the right grounds, not that the company itself wants market shares as this shines through and lowers their credibility. This is a difficult task for small companies but not impossibility. Everyone can contribute to a sustainable development no matter what size a company has. / Program: Textil produktutveckling med entreprenörs- och affärsinriktning

Handling product returns has become a critical activity for organizations as the volume of gods flowing back through the supply chain rapidly increases. Few research studies have published specific empirical data concerning the reverse logistics practices of companies. Information technology and information support has long been recognized as a competitive weapon – capable of enhancing company performance and achieving efficient reverse logistics. Reverse logistics is very unlike the forward, as it is more reactive and also has less visibility. Unlike forward logistics, incoming products from reverse logistics are not tracked broadly because of the lack of information systems resources necessary.The investigated apparel company in this study is operating on the global market and expands their sales twenty per cent each year, resulting in increased pressure in the return flow. To meet this future demands, the return process has to be more efficient and not so time consuming. This study emerged from a case study made at the return department of this apparel company based on a research question. An improvement area was discovered through interviews, internal documents and observations. This area was investigated in existing theories through books and scientific research papers. From the theories and the case study, a hypothesis was created in order to be tested. To strengthen the hypothesis, an experiment was developed and performed at selected retailers and at the apparel company.Research Question Where in the product return process can improvements be made in order to make the information flow more efficient between retailers and an apparel company?HypothesisBy creating a web-based return form, the information flow between retailers and an apparel company will be more efficient, resulting in a more effective and structured product return process.Through the experiment, various factors that strengthen the hypothesis were discovered. For instance, the information flow becomes more effective when retailers have clear guidelines how to send back products and when inserting the information into the computer system before returning. As the apparel company knows what is coming back, the disposition of returned products can be predetermined which will speed up the return process. Shared and available information across various parties facilitate the daily work with better communication. Furthermore, activities that are existing today within the return process can be eliminated which result in more effective product return process. Refund for retailers can be made quicker which result in more satisfied retailers and creates stronger relationships. / Program: Master programme in Applied Textile Management