Zara is one of the most successful and fastest growing retail apparel company in the world. This retail chain is regarded as a pioneer of fast fashion companies whose main feature is quick response to new fashion trends, launching several collections a year and continuous assortment refreshing. Zara has entered the Czech Republic in 2001. On the local market the company presents itself as a premium brand whereas in Western Europe Zara is seen as a middle class brand. The company Zara Česká republika operates only six stores and its sales, compared with the largest clothing chains operating on the Czech market, are rather low. The diploma thesis has two main objectives. One goal is to describe and analyse the business model of the retail chain Zara as many experts believe that the company's business model is the reason of its tremendous success. The second major goal of this thesis is to determine how Czech women perceive the retail chain Zara in comparison with other apparel chains operating on the Czech market and to verify the hypothesis that the Czech female consumers are not satisfied with quality-price ratio of goods offered by chain Zara. The secondary objective of the thesis is to characterize the apparel business and to explain the concept of fast fashion.

This thesis aims to find a definition of fast-selling clothing options and to find a way to predict them using only a few weeks of sale data as input. The data used for this project contain daily sales and intake quantity for seasonal options, with sale start 2016-2018, provided by the department store chain Åhléns. A definition is found to describe fast-selling clothing options as those having sold a certain percentage of their intake after a fixed number of days. An alternative definition based on cluster affiliation is proven less effective. Two predictive models are tested, the first one being a probabilistic classifier and the second one being a k-nearest neighbor classifier, using the Euclidean distance. The probabilistic model is divided into three steps: transformation, clustering, and classification. The time series are transformed with B-splines to reduce dimensionality, where each time series is represented by a vector with its length and B-spline coefficients. As a tool to improve the quality of the predictions, the B-spline vectors are clustered with a Gaussian mixture model where every cluster is assigned one of the two labels fast-selling or ordinary, thus dividing the clusters into disjoint sets: one containing fast-selling clusters and the other containing ordinary clusters. Lastly, the time series to be predicted are assumed to be Laplace distributed around a B-spline and using the probability distributions provided by the clustering, the posterior probability for each class is used to classify the new observations. In the transformation step, the number of knots for the B-splines are evaluated with cross-validation and the Gaussian mixture models, from the clustering step, are evaluated with the Bayesian information criterion, BIC. The predictive performance of both classifiers is evaluated with accuracy, precision, and recall. The probabilistic model outperforms the k-nearest neighbor model with considerably higher values of accuracy, precision, and recall. The performance of each model is improved by using more data to make the predictions, most prominently with the probabilistic model.

This study aimed to determine the potential of packaging to strengthen brand equity in female apparel retail stores. A field experiment was conducted in the Tshwane metropolitan - a key political, economic and urban area in South Africa - to investigate the potential of packaging to be acknowledged as an additional element of the marketing mix in terms of its influence on consumers’ perceptions of the service offering of retailers and their brand equity. The study was done in the context of an emerging economy, where international clothing brands have infiltrated the market and become widely accessible in recent years. The data was collected by using convenience sampling methods, and the self-completion of a structured questionnaire after respondents acted as mystery shoppers at a Single Brand Retailer (SBR) and a Department Store (DS) that carry the same footwear brand in a major shopping centre in this metropolitan. The SBR offers consumers a branded high quality canvas tote bag after purchase, whereas the DS offers a generic plastic bag irrespective of the type of purchase or the price paid. Willing females, all final year students at the University of Pretoria (n =103) were divided in two groups. Individuals visited the two retailers according to a schedule compiled by the researcher. One group visited the SBR first, followed by the DS. The other group did the task in the reverse order. Data analysis involved descriptive statistics, exploratory factor analysis, specifically Principle Component analysis using PROMAX and PROCRUSTES rotation for the two scales that investigated the service offering and brand equity respectively, Means, Standard deviations, Cronbach’s Alpha as well as paired and non-paired 2-tailed t-tests. This study confirmed the potential of secondary packaging as an independent element of the marketing mix in the branded clothing retail industry. The packaging construct dissociated it from the construct ‘Product’ as the literature suggests, which confirms that marketing elements adapt over time and that these changes have to be acknowledged in retail. Respondents generally had a less favourable instore experience in the DS compared to the SBR. The packaging format of SBR was also evaluated more favourably, which enhanced perceptions of the overall service offering. This suggests that respondents’ less favourable evaluation of the less prestigious packaging offered in the DS, is partly to blame for the lower overall evaluations of the service offering of the DS. Packaging also contributed/enhanced brand equity as consumers’ perceptions of the packaging formats – irrespective of whether it was a SBR or a DS – positively contributed to consumers’ perceptions of the brand equity of the retailers that they visited. The contribution of packaging towards brand equity was mostly more prominent than the contribution of other marketing elements such Advertising and Promotion. An order effect was noted. Respondents who visited the DS first, were significantly more impressed with the SBR. Those who went to the SBR first, seemed more forgiving and evaluated the service offering and the brand equity lower compared to the SBR but nevertheless evaluated it more favourably than the group that patronized the DS first. Packaging does not seem to relieve post purchase regret. Respondents were more regretful after their SBR experience. Several explanations may be used to explain this and future studies are envisaged to expand the findings. / Dissertation (MSc)--University of Pretoria, 2014. / gm2014 / Consumer Science / unrestricted

Bakgrund: CRM säljs ofta in som ett verktyg för att uppnå kundlojalitet. Forskningen är tvetydig på om sambandet mellan CRM och lojalitet gäller, och en rad problem som sägs hämma CRM-satsningar tas upp. Trots svårigheterna med CRM är ordet fortfarande lite av ett buzzword, och aktuellt än idag. CRM har utvecklats mycket sedan 1995, då begreppet först myntades, men innebörden är det samma: det är viktigt att fokusera på kunderna och bibehålla den kundbas som finns idag. Klädbranschen har upplevt en nedåtgående trend, och har endast vuxit online de senaste åren. E-handel är ett område där företag är extra utsatta för konkurrens, och ett sätt att hantera detta är att försöka bibehålla befintliga kunder. I studien undersöks svenska små och medelstora e-handelsföretag i klädbranschen ur ett fenomenologisktperspektiv; deras upplevelser och erfarenheter av CRM-lösningar och dessa lösningars påverkan på lojalitet. Syfte: Studiens syfte är att undersöka hur e-handelsföretags CRM-ansvariga ser på sina system och hur de upplever att deras CRM-lösningar bidrar till lojala kunder. Metod och genomförande: Studien har en fenomenologisk och hermeneutisk utgångspunkt, med kvalitativ och induktiv forskningsstrategi. Metod för datainsamling är semistrukturerade intervjuer med åtta fallföretag i Sverige som bedriver handel med kläder online. Resultat: Studien visar att fallföretagen upplever allt mer konkurrens, samt att kundernas beteende blir allt mer utmanande. Intervjupersonernas uppfattning är lojalitet är viktigt, då kunder som återkommer är lätta att påverka, vilket är bra ur ettkostnadsperspektiv. Studien kartlägger också vilka former av CRM-lösningar som används idag, och konstaterat att småföretag använder relativt enkla lösningar. Slutligen upplever intervjupersonerna att deras CRM-lösningar har någon form av påverkan på kunderna, men att system som erbjuder till exempel personlig anpassning av kommunikation skulle bidra ännu mer då kommunikationen anses bli mer relevant. / Background: CRM is often proposed as tool for achieving customer loyalty. However, research conducted in this field is ambiguous on the correlation between CRM and customer loyalty, and many obstacles that hinder CRM projects are found. Despite the difficulties associated with CRM, CRM is still a buzzword today and the concept is present. The acronym was introduced in 1995 and has since developed a lot, however, the concept still has the same implication: it is important to be customeroriented and maintaining the extant group of customers. The apparel retail sector has experienced a decline, with growth exclusively in the ecommercechannel. E-commerce is a sector where companies are exposed tocompetition, and one possible strategy for dealing with the competitiveness is focusing more on maintaining the base of extant customers. In this project Swedish SMEs running e-businesses in the apparel retail sector are studied by using phenomenology, in order to assess their experiences of CRM systems and the systems’ perceived impact on customer loyalty. Aim: The purpose of this project is assessing how the CRM managers of e-commerce companies experience their CRM systems and the systems’ perceived impact on customer loyalty. Research method and execution: The project is based on phenomenology and hermeneutics, and uses a qualitative and inductive approach. The method used to gather information is semi-structured interviews with eight e-commerce companies in the apparel retail sector. Results: This study shows that the companies experience a high level of competition and the customer behavior to be more challenging. The people interviewed consider loyalty as important, due to the fact that recurring customers are more easily influenced, which is cost effective approach. The study also maps the current use of CRM systems and finds that small companies use relatively simple solutions. In the end the people interviewed express that they perceive that their CRM-systems influence the customers to some extent, but point out that solutions that provide customized communication would have a greater influence due to increasingly relevant content.

Doctor of Philosophy / Department of Apparel, Textiles, and Interior Design / Joy M. Kozar / Today, home economics in Saudi Arabia, in particular, apparel and textiles programs (AT) typically emphasize two major areas: apparel design and textile science. However, AT programs in Saudi Arabia need to evolve to help students take advantage of new job opportunities in the apparel retail sector. Establishing an apparel merchandising track in AT programs in Saudi Arabia will provide women with better preparation to succeed in the industry. Until recently, most female graduates of home economics programs in Saudi Arabia were prepared for teaching positions. The purpose of this study was to develop an apparel merchandising program for the AT discipline in Saudi Arabia. Qualitative data were collected in three phases to examine the focal points of choosing the new curricula: (a) the nature of the subject matter, (b) the nature of society, and (c) the nature of individuals. In Phase 1, the content of the top apparel merchandising programs in the US was examined to explore the nature of the subject matter. In Phase 2, the perceptions of industry professionals in Saudi Arabia were explored by interviewing 21 human resource managers and apparel store managers. Finally, the AT students’ needs to succeed in the apparel industry were examined by interviewing 17 female students. The data were analyzed by utilizing the word-based technique as well as comparing and contrasting responses to each question. The findings for all three phases were combined and compared to identify the knowledge and skills that need to be added to the new apparel merchandising track for AT discipline in Saudi Arabia. Results of the study indicated that all three phases reported the importance of considering hard skills, or content and process knowledge, and soft skills, or professional attitude and skills, in preparing AT student for the apparel retail industry. AT major knowledge, business knowledge, mathematics, as well as professional skills (e.g., communication, commitment, teamwork, English language, lifelong learning, and experience) are found to be essential for the success of Saudi women in the apparel retail industry. For AT educators in Saudi Arabia, this knowledge and skills have to be addressed in the apparel merchandising program.

Made available in DSpace on 2010-04-20T20:15:13Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 61070100607.pdf: 3447110 bytes, checksum: 2bf86b3e4b257ae249c0deabf0d6eac0 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2009-02-17T00:00:00Z / Novos formatos de loja surgem constantemente. Estimulados por diferentes aspectos de seu ambiente de negócios, os varejistas estão sempre inovando em seus formatos para atrair mais consumidores, atender melhor seu público, para superar a concorrência ou ainda aproveitar vantagens decorrentes do avanço da tecnologia. A estratégia traçada pelo varejista está diretamente relacionada com o formato da loja. Este formato, por sua vez, é resultado da oferta do composto mercadológico – características básicas deste varejista utilizadas para satisfazer as necessidades dos consumidores. A diversidade de formatos e de estratégias dos varejistas de confecção é grande. Apesar desta variedade, não foi encontrada na literatura uma classificação única, consensual e amplamente aceita, nem uma descrição destes formatos. Devido ao grande potencial do mercado de baixa renda aliado à importância econômica do varejo de vestuário, este trabalho tem como objetivo investigar como as empresas varejistas de confecção estão organizadas em relação ao seu formato, isto é, em relação às variáveis do seu composto mercadológico (produto, preço, apresentação, pessoal, promoção e localização). Assim, este trabalho pretende derivar empiricamente uma taxonomia dos formatos varejistas com base no composto mercadológico das lojas por meio de uma análise de agrupamentos. Os resultados apontam para a existência de quatro grupos atuando no segmento de confecção para baixa renda: Amadoras, Barateiras, Especializadas e Consolidadas. As principais características dos grupos são detalhadas neste trabalho. São apresentadas também as diferenças e semelhanças entre eles. Os grupos aparentam estágios distintos no seu desenvolvimento estratégico. De maneira especulativa é possível identificar um caminho evolutivo entre estes grupos de lojas. / New retail formats emerge constantly. Driven by different factors of their business environment, retailers are always evolving their formats to keep and attract costumers, to overcome the competitors or to benefit from the technology development. The strategy outlined by the retailer is directly related to the store format. This format, in turn, is the result of the retail mix offering – the retailer basic characteristics that are established to satisfy the consumers' needs. There are many different formats in the apparel retail segment. Despite that, it was not found in the literature one single, accepted and consensual classification for these formats. Given the great potential of the low income segment and the economic importance of the apparel retail business, the objective of this research is to investigate how apparel retailers develop their formats and organize their retail marketing mix (product, price, presentation, people, promotion and placement). This investigation is focused on a taxonomic analysis of retail formats based on the stores' retail mix, using a cluster analysis. The results indicate four store groups in the low income apparel retail segment: Non Professional, Cheap, Specialty and Professional. The main characteristics of the groups are detailed in this study. It is also presented the differences and similarities among the groups. These groups are apparently in different stages of strategic development. Speculations are raised about the way these groups of retail formats evolve.

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Atenciosamente Simone on 2018-10-31T20:39:06Z (GMT) / Submitted by Francisco Soares Bianchi (francisco.bianchi@gmail.com) on 2018-11-02T18:41:33Z No. of bitstreams: 1 WCLOF_ TA_MPGC_Francisco Soares Bianchi_20181025_com_ficha_catalografica.pdf: 1018750 bytes, checksum: ad80fbb76fea674ff9d1f1a5132bbe5d (MD5) / Rejected by Simone de Andrade Lopes Pires (simone.lopes@fgv.br), reason: Boa Tarde Francisco, Ainda há duas alterações necessárias: 1º Traduzir a palavra Data da aprovação. 2º Resumo precisa estar em folha separada. Por favor, faça as alterações e submeta o trabalho novamente na biblioteca digital. Atenciosamente, Simone on 2018-11-05T16:26:13Z (GMT) / Submitted by Francisco Soares Bianchi (francisco.bianchi@gmail.com) on 2018-11-05T20:09:39Z No. of bitstreams: 1 WCLOF_ TA_MPGC_Francisco Soares Bianchi_20181025_com_ficha_catalografica.pdf: 1017500 bytes, checksum: 3467f9f9a3cf66b21bc9868994b203d3 (MD5) / Approved for entry into archive by Simone de Andrade Lopes Pires (simone.lopes@fgv.br) on 2018-11-06T16:29:45Z (GMT) No. of bitstreams: 1 WCLOF_ TA_MPGC_Francisco Soares Bianchi_20181025_com_ficha_catalografica.pdf: 1017500 bytes, checksum: 3467f9f9a3cf66b21bc9868994b203d3 (MD5) / Approved for entry into archive by Isabele Garcia (isabele.garcia@fgv.br) on 2018-11-07T12:09:18Z (GMT) No. of bitstreams: 1 WCLOF_ TA_MPGC_Francisco Soares Bianchi_20181025_com_ficha_catalografica.pdf: 1017500 bytes, checksum: 3467f9f9a3cf66b21bc9868994b203d3 (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2018-11-07T12:09:18Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 WCLOF_ TA_MPGC_Francisco Soares Bianchi_20181025_com_ficha_catalografica.pdf: 1017500 bytes, checksum: 3467f9f9a3cf66b21bc9868994b203d3 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2018-09-25 / Purpose: To provide propositions regarding how juxtaposing two well-known and established theories might impact the way firms venture when entering into new international markets. Design/Methodology/Approach: Building on exploratory and inductive research and on multiple cases and on work in related disciplines and on 18 field interviews with managers and C-level executives in diverse functions and organizations. Findings: Provide empirical support from interviews on the case studies to corroborate with the three propositions and compare amongst the observed practices what could be done differently to mitigate WCLOF (Working Capital Liability of Foreignness). The first proposition is presented regarding how the Liability of Foreignness (LOF) plays a role when international firms are managing their Working Capital (WC) of a subunit in a host market, using six qualitative case studies from three international players and three local competitors; the second proposition is related to if firms overcome LOF over time when, using the same three international players in qualitative case studies to observe how they have been evolving is the new host market regarding their WC improvement and; the third proposition is whether the international players might carry an advantage when establishing a subunit in a new host market, considering again the same three international players in qualitative case studies. Research Limitations: Further research is necessary into different markets other than Brazil and / or different industries other than the apparel / fashion retailing. Broader survey, with statistical generalization, might validate the propositions presented. Practical Implications: The propositions could serve as a managerial tool for identifying WCLOF, thus also for assisting to overcome it. Originality/value: given the novelty in bringing these two existing theories juxtaposed in academic literature, it demanded inductive research to assist uniqueness findings. / Propósito: Prover proposições a respeito de como duas conhecidas and estabelecidas teorias justapostas poodem impactar as firmas ao entrar em novos mercados internacionais. Design / Metodologia / Abordagem: a partir de pesquisa exploratória e indutiva e em casos múltiplos, em temas relacionados e em 18 entrevistas de campo com gestores e executivos em diversas funções e organizações. Resultados: prover base empírica a partir de entrevistas sobre os estudos de caso para corroborar com as três proposições e comparar, entre as práticas observadas, o que poderia ser feito de forma diferente para mitigar o WCLOF (Working Capital Liability of Foreignness). A primeira proposição é sobre o papel que Liability of Foreignness (LOF) desempenha quando as firmas internacionais gerenciam seu Capital de Giro (WC) de uma subunidade em um mercado estrangeiro, a com base em seis estudos de caso qualitativos de três competidores internacionais e três pares locais; a segunda proposição é a se as empresas superam o LOF ao longo do tempo, com base nos mesmos pares internacionais em estudos de caso qualitativos para observar como eles, no novo mercado estrangeito em relação ao aprimoramento de seus WC; a terceira proposição é se as firmas internacionais podem trazer uma vantagem ao estabelecer uma subunidade em um novo mercado estrangeiro, considerando novamente as mesmos três firmas internacionais em estudos de casos qualitativos Limitações de pesquisa: Pesquisas adicionais são necessárias em diferentes mercados, exceto no Brasil e / ou em diferentes indústrias, além do varejo de vestuário / moda. Um levantamento mais amplo, com testes estatísticos, pode validar as proposições apresentadas. Implicações Práticas: As proposições poderiam servir como uma ferramenta gerencial para identificar o WCLOF, assim também para ajudar a superá-lo. Originalidade / valor: dada o ineditismo em avaliar essas duas teorias existentes justapostas na literatura acadêmica, foram requeridas pesquisas indutivas para auxiliar a novidade das descobertas.