The apparel and textile industry is one of the largest in the world and is characterised by complex, global supply chains, water and chemical intensive processes as well as environmentally harmful raw material extraction and production. Because of this, environmental sustainability has become a key issue for the businesses in recent years. With this in mind, and considering an increasing demand for textile and apparel goods, the industry is in urgent need of improving the environmental footprint of its products. However, lack of transparency and available data throughout apparel supply chains decrease chances of producing accurate sustainability assessments, which in turn obstruct improvement measures. Moreover, companies often lack the in-house competence required to manage and create strategies for sustainability assessments. In this study an overview of an apparel supply chain is provided, highlighting phases, sub phases, input and environmental indicators. Appropriate tools for assessing the environmental sustainability of such a supply chain are inventoried and examined. Based on a case study, a literature review and a stakeholder opinion assessment, misalignments between actual practices within an apparel company and recommended practices of the researcher and stakeholder communities are uncovered. These identified misalignments enabled the development of a conceptual model, aiming at facilitating the process of developing an environmental sustainability assessment strategy within an apparel company.

Background: The modern world struggles with an environmental crisis and many industry sectors could be considered as non-sustainable. The fashion industry is poorly performing both in ecological and social sustainability due to mass production and apparel waste caused by fast changing fashion. To reduce the negative impact on the ecological and social environment the United Nations developed the Sustainable Development Goals focussing on the economic, social, and ecological sustainability. The apparel industry influenced by the international organisations and the customers sustainability demands is forced to adjust its business strategy towards ecological and socially sustainable business and production. Purpose: The purpose of this study is to understand how the brand Patagonia, a company in the fashion industry, communicates its core values and meanings in its marketing campaign focussed on sustainable production and consumption. By analysing Patagonia`s video series of the Worn Wear marketing campaign, the underlying core values and meaning building the companies brand image on topic of sustainability could be interpreted. Method: This thesis is conducted by applying interpretive thematic analysis and visual analysis by applying the study of semiotics and documentary video analysis. The employed theories allow the researcher to discover meaning and values through conducting a visual analysis. Conclusion: The results show that Patagonia Inc., communicates a total of four major and ten secondary themes on topics of both ecological and social sustainability in the Worn Wear campaign. The themes are representing the importance of slow fashion by repairing the gear and sustainable consumption. The reciprocity between adventures and sustainable environment is being mentioned, and the social and ecological factors are expounded.

To capture diverse aspects of smart shopping for apparel, a comprehensive measurement based upon (a) shopping benefits and costs, (b) consumption economics, and (c) and consumer decision making stages was developed. Employing an extensive literature review, focus group interviews, personal interviews, and surveys, we developed the three-stage, seven-dimensional, and gender-neutral smart shopping measure for apparel. The smart shopping dimensions identified were: information search and planning in the prepurchase stage; effort/time savings, right purchase, and money savings in the purchase stage; and satisfaction and word of mouth in the postpurchase stage. The measure was validated with multiple tests and a structural model validated the significance of the proposed relationships among constructs. This study expanded the conceptualization of smart shopping for apparel by investigating cost and benefit components, by uncovering specific outcome constructs, and by identifying activities that generate smart shopper feelings. Suggestions for retailers as well as future research directions are provided.

While corporate social responsibility (CSR) disclosure has proliferated in the apparel industry since the 1990s, CSR communications research remains underdeveloped. While the extant literature investigates how brands utilise CSR reports and websites to communicate CSR, little attention has been given to other communication channels. In response, this thesis explores how apparel brands use different corporate communication channels to communicate CSR to stakeholders. Using ethnographic content analysis, the CSR reports, corporate websites and Facebook posts of thirty apparel brands were analysed. Findings indicate that brands approach CSR communication strategically with approximately two-thirds of brands consistently using the same channel combination for each CSR topic, while the remaining third employ a dynamic approach, using different channel combinations to discuss different CSR topics. While CSR reports and websites show a typically moderate-high level of utilisation for the discussion of CSR topics, the same CSR topics are considerably less likely to be discussed over Facebook. Facebook CSR communication is generally selective, with contentious issues seldom addressed via this channel. There is little consistency between brands in how they approached CSR communication, with each brand employing a combination of strategies to legitimise their business practices and demonstrate their good corporate citizenship. This study empirically supports and extends research conducted on single channel CSR communications of apparel brands and suggests that brands are cognizant of the business case for CSR as well as the repercussions of poorly executed CSR communication.

The purpose of this study was to develop a typology of small apparel manufacturers (SAMs), firms classified between SIC 2310 to 2389 and less than 50 employees. The objectives were to (a) determine if distinct manufacturing strategies existed among SAMs, (b) develop a profile of these groups using environmental factors known to affect the apparel industry and small businesses (i.e., customer service, operations, barriers, assistance, customer size, customer location, competitor size, competitor location), (c) develop a profile of SAMs based on demographics (i.e., SIC, end-use for products, manufacturing process, type of firm, fashion position, employee size, manufacturing strategy, marketing strategy, annual gross revenue), and (d) determine the existence of a relationship between SAMs use of market strategies and manufacturing strategies. Data were collected from 146 SAMs, which represented 15 states with the highest number of SAMs. Factor analysis was used to identify manufacturing strategy factors (i.e., flexibility, environmental consciousness, product attributes, lot sizes), which were used to cluster respondents; and environmental factors (i.e., customer service, education/industry awareness, flexibility, timing, unit costs, production resources, technology/automation, consistency in sales, investment capital, import reductions). Four clusters of manufacturing strategies emerged and were profiled according to environmental factors and demographic variables (i.e., products, product classification, manufacturing processes, type of firm, type of fashion, manufacturing strategies, marketing strategies, firm's employee size, annual gross revenues). Significant differences occurred among the four manufacturing strategy groups and environmental factors. Significant differences occurred among the four manufacturing strategy groups and demographic variables. No relationship existed between manufacturing strategy groups and their marketing strategy. / Ph. D.

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The purpose of this research is to investigate and understand the current situation of the suppliers in the textile and apparel industry, who are located in Asia, towards the Digital Product Passport (DPP). In particular, this research intends to assist in understanding if the suppliers of this industry are aware of the DPP legislation, which is their attitude regarding this topic, and how prepared they are to follow its prerequisites. Design/methodology/approach: This study adopts an exploratory qualitative research approach. The goal is to explore and gain further knowledge about the current attitude and preparedness of the Asian suppliers regarding the DPP and finally to lay the groundwork for further studies. An inductive approach was followed since this research was conducted by interrelating relevant literature with new findings with the purpose of providing the existing literature with new empirical data. Data were collected through interviews and new knowledge and discussions were produced as a result of the research process. Findings: The findings of this research show that the suppliers’ attitude towards the DPP is positive rather than negative. There is a willingness to learn more about this topic and follow the prerequisites. However, several difficulties were encountered that should be taken into account carefully. In addition, with regard to their preparedness, the suppliers are considered not ready. However, it was noted that for some of them, the implementation might be easier than for others. Originality/value: In the literature, there is a gap with regard to the current situation of the suppliers in the textile and apparel industry, who are located outside the European Union, and particularly in Asia, towards the DPP. Studies have been focused on the DPP, but not with an explicit focus on the suppliers in Asia and in the textile industry. Therefore, this research is considered original and valuable since it is regarded as one of the first to describe the current situation of the Asian suppliers regarding the DPP and with a specific focus on the textile industry. Paper type: Master Thesis

[pt] As reflexões desenvolvidas neste trabalho têm por finalidade discutir o papel dos agentes que atuam na cadeia têxtil e, consequentemente, o papel do designer como um dos que proporcionam os meios para o entendimento da dialética entre o que chamamos de processo criativo e as demandas do mercado. Um artefato produzido pela cadeia têxtil está diretamente ligado a todos nós no dia a dia, seja como usuários diretos, seja como indiretos. Ocorre que seu processo de desenvolvimento é complexo, e muitas vezes desconhecido por aqueles que nele estão envolvidos − tanto os que atuam como legitimadores quanto os seus usuários. A atuação do designer normalmente é vinculada apenas ao processo criativo, mesmo quando levado em consideração o fato de que seu trabalho depende de informações provenientes de uma estrutura mais ampla e complexa, que envolve a necessidade de conhecimento sobre materiais, processos de fabricação e distribuição, e processos de uso e de consumo. Entretanto, o entendimento de que a estrutura dessa cadeia produtiva é mais complexa, composta por diferentes agentes sociais, leva a pensar que o designer é somente mais um profissional, cuja prática influencia, mas também é influenciada por tantos outros agentes sociais pertencentes ao campo; desta forma, o processo criativo se revela uma atividade coletiva que envolve vários agentes. Criar um produto de moda, aqui descrito como um objeto inserido na cadeia têxtil é muito mais complexo do que o simples desenvolvimento daquele artefato que nos é apresentado como temporal no desfile de uma específica coleção de moda. Propõe-se, então, aqui apresentar o modo pelo qual se estabelece a relação, direta ou indireta, com todos aqueles envolvidos na cadeia têxtil, para identificar como essas relações interferem no processo criativo, tradicionalmente associado apenas à intencionalidade e aos méritos do designer. / [en] Reflections developed in this work are intended to discuss the necessity of the role of agents working in the textile chain and hence the designer as one of providing ways for understanding that what we call creative process, as well as market demands and its dialectic with the whole process. An artifact produced by the textile chain is directly linked to all of us in everyday life, either as direct or indirect users. It turns out that its development process is complex and, often, unknown by those involved as well as those who act as legitimators, plus those who are its members. The acting of the designer is usually linked only to the creative process, even when we take into consideration that your job depends on information from a broader and more complex structure that involves the need for knowledge of materials, manufacturing processes and distribution and use processes and consumption. However understand that the structure of this supply chain is more complex and consists of different actors, makes us think that he is just another professional whose practice influences, but is also influenced by many other social agents belonging to the field, and with it often we do not realize that the creative process is a collective activity involving these various agents. Create a fashion product, described here as an object that is inserted in the textile chain is much more complex than the simple development of that artifact that is presented to us as temporal at a fashion show in a specific fashion collection. We propose as assessed within the relationship, direct or indirect, with all those involved in the textile chain to identify how these relationships interfere with the creative process, traditionally associated only intentionality and merits of the designer.

Background: The sportswear industry has grown rapidly in the past years, with sportswear becoming a popular choice for everyday wear and sports activities. However, concerns about sustainability have emerged, prompting consumers to think about their purchasing habits. As a result, sustainable branding has become an integral part of the business of sportswear brands. Purpose: This study examines how women’s attitudes toward sustainable branding influence their purchase decisions in the sportswear industry. By focusing on women aged 20-50, the research seeks to understand the attitudes of female consumers and help sportswear brands adapt their sustainability strategies to meet consumer demand. Method: This study follows a qualitative research method with an interpretive research paradigm and an inductive research approach. Data have been collected through semi-structured interviews to better understand the underlying motivations and factors that influence female attitudes. Conclusion: The study findings revealed that female consumers had negative or neutral attitudes toward the sportswear industry. However, they indicated a positive attitude towards sustainability, suggesting that the brand’s social and environmental practices can influence female consumer attitudes. The study showed a clear gap between female consumer attitudes and actual behavior, with financial constraints and other purchase criteria as barriers to purchasing sustainable sportswear.

In current supply chains, the context of subcontracting is majorly connected to unauthorised subcontracting with negative conjunction which has created the fear of discussing subcontracting. However, previous research presents subcontracting as a common practice within fashion and apparel supply chains, however, nearly no study has focused on elaborating the authorisation process. Therefore, this thesis explores the potential of authorising subcontracting to bring benefits for fashion and apparel brands, and aims to identify conditions from a brand’s perspective which need to apply for the authorisation process. Underpinned by the social exchange theory, circumstances within buyer-supplier relationships are discussed in which the ideal balance of power-dependence may lead to an open and effective communication environment for the treatment of subcontracting. Empirical data is collected through seven interviews with a qualitative research outlook. This revealed the significance of buyer-supplier relationships within which honesty, trust and transparency are building the basis for the discussion of subcontractors. Moreover, the findings further indicate that brands may have the benefit of having better capacity availability, more effective lead times, and the potential to have a broader production specialisation when embedding and authorising subcontractors. However, the conditions of keeping full control of the subcontracted production needs to be ensured by the brand directly or through the supervision of the tier 1 supplier to ensure high production quality standards. This study provides a starting point to understand the process of communicating and authorising subcontracting within brands and tier 1 suppliers which provides worthful insights for scholars and practitioners. From a theoretical perspective, this research aims to highlight the positive aspects of subcontracting for brands while leading the research stream towards the context of authorising subcontracting which has been lacking so far. In addition, from a practical perspective, this study aims to support brands and additional stakeholder groups in understanding and supporting the authorisation process. This may be the solution to tackle the issue of unauthorised and hidden subcontracting within the fashion and apparel industry.