Affective haptic research is a rapidly growing field. Today, more smart haptic clothes are being studied and implemented which are aimed to effect its users emotionally. However, they have some limitations. This research intends to improve the existing literature and contribute by involving consumers directly in the design of a smart haptic jacket by adding heat, vibration actuators, and by enhancing portability. In this thesis, we are interested in six basic emotions: love, joy, surprise, anger, sadness, and fear. An online survey was designed and conducted on 92 respondents that gave feedback of what it is expected from an affective haptic jacket. The results of this survey assisted in the general design, and the feedback helped to build a prototype. 86% of the respondents expressed interest in the system and are willing to try it when it is ready. A detailed design architecture is provided along with details on the hardware and software used for the implementation. Finally, the prototype was evaluated on 14 participants using the actual prototype haptic jacket based on a QoE comparison between the absence and the presence of haptic actuation. The proposed system showed improvement over a similar system that is designed for the same purpose.

[pt] O objetivo principal desta tese é propor linhas mestras para modelo de capacitação dos instrutores do sistema CAD-Vestuário e dos modelistas (usuários), que contemple atividades integradas de gestão do conhecimento, relevantes a seu planejamento e implementação. A base teórica deu ênfase aos elementos construtivos da gestão do conhecimento que direcionam ao compartilhamento do conhecimento individual (tácito e explícito) tanto do modelista como do capacitador. A proposta da pesquisa está pautada na adequação dos elementos construtivos da gestão do conhecimento indicados por Probst, Raub, Romhardt (2002). Aplica, também, o modelo desenvolvido por Nonaka e Takeuchi (1997) para a disseminação, compartilhamento e conversão dos conhecimentos tácitos e explícitos. Para tanto, foi realizada uma pesquisa de campo quantitativa que identificou a formação do profissional do setor de modelagem do vestuário do Estado de Santa Catarina e os softwares mais utilizados neste setor. Os resultados desta abordagem foram satisfatórios, pois a maioria das empresas respondeu ao questionário. Os resultados revelaram que a formação dos modelistas é de nível técnico, o que representa a valorização dos conhecimentos voltados à prática do trabalho. A maioria das empresas do vestuário desenvolve a modelagem com o uso da tecnologia computadorizada, e os sistemas mais utilizados são o sistema Audaces e o sistema Lectra. A partir destes dados, foi realizada uma pesquisa nas empresas do vestuário (empresários e modelistas) e nas empresas do software (empresários e instrutores), com foco na capacitação dos instrutores e dos usuários diretos do sistema CAD/Vestuário, com vistas à aprendizagem e compartilhamento dos conhecimentos de todos os envolvidos. Concluíu-se, com base nos principais resultados, que mais da metade dos modelistas não usa todas as funções do sistema CAD; os instrutores dominam conhecimentos sobre o software, mas metade deles não sabe modelagem; os procedimentos para a seleção do instrutor e planejamento da capacitação não são adequados à interação e compartilhamento de conhecimento entre os participantes; o conhecimento do modelista fica apenas no âmbito individual (tácito), não sendo registrado, para tornar-se explícito. Por isso, propõem-se linhas mestras para modelo de capacitação dos instrutores dos sistemas CAD-Vestuário e dos modelistas, com base na teoria da gestão do conhecimento. / [en] The aim of this thesis is to offer master lines for the development of an educational system for CAD garment manufacture users and instructors. The model proposed includes integrated activities of knowledge management relevant to its planning and implementation. The theory emphasized the constructive elements of knowledge management which direct the sharing of individual knowledge (tacit and explicit) both the user as well as the instructor. The proposal of this research is based on the adequacy of knowledge management constructive elements pointed by Probst, Raub, Romhardt (2002). The model created by Nonaka and Takeuchi (1997) is also applied for the spreading, sharing and the converting of the tacit and explicit knowledge. A field research was realized and has identified the professional built up of the clothing modeler sector in the State of Santa Catarina and the most used softwares in this sector. The results of this approach were satisfactory due to the fact that most of the companies answered to the questionnaire. The results demonstrates that the pattern planners formation is technical, which represents the upward movement of the knowledge of the work practice. Most of the clothing companies develop the patterns using computer technology and the most used software are Audaces system and Lectra system. Using this data, a research in the clothing companies (entrepreneurs and pattern planners) and in the software companies (entrepreneurs and instructors) was realized, focusing on the capacitating of the instructors and direct users of the CAD/clothing, aiming the learning and sharing of everyone’s knowledge.Using this data, a research in the clothing companies (entrepreneurs and pattern planners) and in the software companies (entrepreneurs and instructors) was realized, focusing on the capacitating of the instructors and direct users of the CAD/clothing, aiming the learning and sharing of everyone’s knowledge. It was concluded, based on the main results, that more than half of the pattern planners does not use all of the functions of the CAD system; the instructors master the software knowledge, yet half of them does not know patterns, the procedures for selecting an instructor and capacitating planning are not adequate to the interaction and knowledge sharing between the partners; the modeler knowledge is only in the individual scope (tacit), not being registered, to become explicit. That is why master lines are offered for the CAD-clothing capacitating model for the instructors and the users, focusing on knowledge management.

THE DRESSMAKERS, a feature-length documentary, contrasts the slow pace of artisanal clothes-making with the fast pace of the competitive textiles industry in Morocco, inviting a re-examination of the values represented by the clothing that people wear. / https://dc.etsu.edu/etsu_books/1204/thumbnail.jpg

A MOROCCAN REMAINS A MOROCCAN contrasts old and new methods of clothes-making and situates Morocco in its multi-dimensional position among ancient, colonial, post-modern, and global influences. Themes of class, gender, and identity are the backdrop to stories about unique characters and the varieties of clothing that they make. The changing characteristics of clothing are a metaphor for the transformations happening both on the surface and to the infrastructure of Moroccan culture and economics.

A MOROCCAN REMAINS A MOROCCAN contrasts old and new methods of clothes-making and situates Morocco in its multi-dimensional position among ancient, colonial, post-modern, and global influences. Themes of class, gender, and identity are the backdrop to stories about unique characters and the varieties of clothing that they make. The changing characteristics of clothing are a metaphor for the transformations happening both on the surface and to the infrastructure of Moroccan culture and economics.

Clothes are not only for body protection and covering, but they also have social and emotional aspects attached to them. For them to be appealing, they need to have a proper fit while remaining fashionable and aesthetically pleasing to the eye (Anderson, Brannon, Ulrich, Presley&Woronka, Grasso&Gray,2000; Yoo, 2003). Swaziland has a large population of plus-size women who are working in different departments and need to dress for the job on a daily basis. Their apparel sizing and fit preferences and problems are not known. This research investigates apparel sizing and fit preferences and problems of the plus-size Swazi working women. It concentrates specifically on the functional, aesthetic and economic fit preferences, as well as on determining size labelling preferences, knowledge and clothing styles preferences and problems. This was a descriptive study using a quantitative approach. Purposive sampling was used. This design was chosen as it focused on studying plus-size working women who were experiencing fit problems with the apparel they bought from local apparel retail shops. A survey using a questionnaire to collect data was done in exploring apparel sizing and fit problems and preferences of plus-size working women of Swaziland. A sample of plus-size Swazi working female teachers (n = 249) between the ages of 25 and 60 years who had indicated that they wore clothes of size 16 to 28+ or size 40 to 52+ participated in the study. A self-administered questionnaire was used to answer set objectives. The results of the study indicated that the plus-size Swazi working women preferred clothes that were functionally comfortable, fitted well and were made in comfortable fabric. They also indicated that they preferred clothes that were well sized, had a fit that was functional, sensually and emotionally pleasing in respect of style, the fabric used and comfort. The study also reflected that plus-size Swazi working women experienced sizing and fit problems in most of the apparel they bought from local retail outlets. A high number of the plus-size women consumers reported experiencing difficulty in finding clothes that were aesthetically pleasing. They could not find clothes that were fashionable in their size nor clothes that could satisfy their emotional and symbolic egos. A high number of respondents also indicated that they experienced a lot of fit problems on several areas of their bodies. The waist, hips, buttocks, abdomen and upper arms seemed to be the most problematic body areas respondents reported to be having fit problems. The lengths were also a challenge as most had problems with sleeve and pants length. Findings in this study also reflected that sizing in clothes was still a major problem for most of the plus-size consumers. Many of the respondents had problems understanding information on the size tags. The sizing systems were most probably confusing for the consumer as some came in varying numbers and letters. This study may contribute to a better understanding of sizing and fit preferences and problems experienced by the plussize Swazi working women with regard to work apparel. Consumers come in different shapes and sizes. The clothing producer has a task of ensuring that clothes are made to fit most of the prevailing figure types, rather than the common ideal figure. / Dissertation (MConsumer Science)--University of Pretoria, 2010. / Consumer Science / unrestricted

This work introduces usable, washable garments made from woven and knitted paper to the field of fashion. With the rise of mass production and over consumption, the value of clothes and textiles decreases, and the pollution from non-renewable materials increases. By utilizing paper in clothes as a new sustainable textile alternative, working with the aesthetics of pleats to elongate the body, and the transformative effects of the corset to build and shape the body, displacing the gender, to work with androgyny as a way to showcase the finish work reference historical gender normatives in Buddhist art. This work depicts a collection with emphasis on the body (wearer of clothing and social construction) and construction (which uses the body and tradition), tradition (expectation and displacement) whilst also working with future issues of sustainability using exclusively paper textile.

No description available.

The application of the industrial-design mindset of problem solving into the product design category of apparel design is something that intrigued me.Work-wear can be seen as professional sports apparel or equipment, for a usergroup with varying body sizes and shapes this of course in combination with trying to cater to users with widely different needs.The work-wear industry is one of many where users of many different professions are often bundled together as a wholeand given their equipment based on what would serve the average of this large group the best and as with many other categories of product design, it is driven by cost effectiveness. In many cases, this works just fine, but when it doesn’t, that is where problems occur. In this project the topic of “futureworkwear” is approached with a user centered design perspective to understand the issues and problems found within the area of workwear to better be able to provide innovative and new solutions to problems of visibility, ergonomic adjustability and tool carrying. The project also aims to explore the innovative future of smart garments and how this is best implemented in a natural and meaningful way providing the users of work-wear with added value.The result of the project is a new toolcarrying belt & harness combination, giving the user the possibility to adjust how and where tools are worn on the body and being able to ergonomically adjust how the tool carrier fits. All while also equipping the user with smart technology to provide a safer work environment in a non-intrusive way.

Garment fit is a complex concept made up of objective and subjective variables. It can be measured in terms of functional ease, garment ease, comfort, and appearance. The success of any garment design is dependent upon the suitability of fit for intended end use. Garment fit is fundamental to user satisfaction. One type of garment where fit is essential is protective clothing. Protective clothing should minimize discomfort to the wearer, maximize the level of environmental protection, and provide minimum interference with the task being performed. Because of consumer complaints about the fit of protective clothing, a recommendation for revision of current sizing specifications has been made by the Industrial Safety Equipment Association (ISEA). The purpose of this research was to evaluate the fit of limited-use protective clothing manufactured to the proposed size revision of ANSI/ISEA 101-1985 Men’s Limited-Use and Disposable Protective Coveralls Sizing and Labeling Requirements. Garments which met minimum specifications were provided in three styles by manufacturers. Subjects were obtained at agricultural conferences sponsored by the Virginia Cooperative Extension Service. After selecting garments according to height and weight measurements, subjects were asked to wear the garments while completing an exercise work protocol designed to represent common body movements. Data were collected with a questionnaire concerning overall fit, ability to perform a job while wearing the garment, and whether the garment was too large or too small. Results were used to analyze and make recommendations concerning 1) static fit and dynamic fit, 2) key body measurements other than height and weight needed to select garments, 3) required ease, and 4) the effects of design on fit. Significant results made it possible to make recommendations concerning amounts of ease necessary for overall fit as well as dynamic and static fit. However, evidence was inconclusive in regard to garment design. Comparisons between body and garment measurements were not definitive enough to make recommendations for use of any body dimensions other than height and weight for size selection. Recommendations were made that more anthropometric data be collected for this purpose. / Ph. D.