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Made available in DSpace on 2016-04-26T18:15:26Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Taisa Vieira Sena.pdf: 4223839 bytes, checksum: 3a9a63880b81c0b08ed4dcc2a63137cf (MD5) Previous issue date: 2015-12-08 / Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior / The thesis problematics focuses on the ways how luxury perfume aesthesia is developed in the aesthetic arrangements of printed advertising. We question how these modes contribute to identity construction of applied enunciatees in such advertisements. The research intents are: to analyze the aesthetic experience proposed in advertising; to identify the aesthesic attributes that create the axiology of the scented being; to verify how the translation of the olfactory qualities of perfume is displayed and how it can trigger moods; to comprehend the mechanisms of how sensitive paths make feel the identity attributes proposed by brands and at last to develop a typology of the scented being. In the study object s cut, a set of 142 commercial perfume ads was selected from haute couture and prêt-à-porter brands, published in the regular editions of Vogue Brazil magazine from the years 2010 to 2014. These were approached by semiotics analysis on the verb-visual-spatial articulations of plastic-rhythmic arrangement of the expression plane and of the contents plane. The theoretical and methodological basis is the meaning generative path from Greimas semiotics, connected with Floch s plastic semiotics, Landowski s sociossemiotics, Oliveira's semiotics of the dressed body and Semprini s market semiotics. Achieved results are the mapping of kinds of aesthesic arrangements applied to convincement and the mediated experience of the perfume, as well as the determination of the simulacra of Addresser (product and brand) and Addressee (different segments of scented beings) settled in the advertisements / A problemática da tese centra-se nos modos como se desenvolve a estesia do perfume de luxo nos arranjos estéticos da publicidade impressa. Questiona-se como esses modos contribuem para a construção identitária dos enunciatários inscritos em tais publicidades. Os objetivos da pesquisa são: analisar a experiência estética proposta nas publicidades; identificar os atributos estésicos que criam a axiologia do ser perfumado; verificar como se apresenta a tradução das qualidades olfativas do perfume e como ela pode desencadear estados de alma; depreender os mecanismos de como os percursos sensíveis fazem sentir os atributos identitários propostos pelas marcas e, por fim, desenvolver uma tipologia do ser perfumado. No recorte do objeto de estudo, selecionou-se um conjunto de 142 anúncios publicitários de perfumes de marcas de alta-costura e prêt-à-porter, veiculados nas edições regulares dos anos de 2010 a 2014 da revista Vogue Brasil, abordados pela análise semiótica das articulações verbo-visual-espacial do arranjo plástico-rítmico do plano da expressão e as do plano do conteúdo. A base teórica e metodológica é o percurso gerativo do sentido da Semiótica de Greimas, em articulação com a semiótica plástica de Floch, a sociossemiótica de Landowski, a semiótica do corpo-vestido de Oliveira e a semiotica do mercado de Semprini. Os resultados alcançados são o mapeamento de tipos de arranjo estésico empregados para o convencimento e a experinência mediada do perfume, além da determinação de simulacros de Destinador (produto e marca) e de Destinatário (distintos segmentos de seres perfumados) instalados nos anúncios

Orientadores: Ronaldo Aloise Pilli, Fabio Augusto / Tese (doutorado) - Universidade Estadual de Campinas, Instituto de Quimica / Made available in DSpace on 2018-08-19T04:21:31Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 GodoyJunior_LuizAntonioFonsecade_D.pdf: 3302301 bytes, checksum: 976ce37dfd1cb2387181e2c245e3b652 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2011 / Resumo: Nesta tese, foram construídos modelos quimiométricos a partir de cromatogramas de diferentes amostras obtidos por cromatografia gasosa bidimensional abrangente com detecção por ionização em chama (GC×GC-FID). Numa primeira aplicação, modelos foram desenvolvidos para identificar adulteração em gasolina. Para isso, uma amostra de gasolina não adulterada fornecida pela Agência Natural do Petróleo (ANP) foi utilizada na preparação de um conjunto de calibração e de um conjunto de validação de amostras de gasolinas adulteradas. Em seguida, o modelo construído foi utilizado para avaliar outras amostras de gasolinas e os resultados obtidos foram comparados com os resultados obtidos pela ANP. Em um segundo estudo com gasolinas, 51 amostras foram fornecidas pela ANP juntamente com os resultados dos testes físico-químicos utilizados pela agência na avaliação da qualidade da gasolina. O objetivo deste estudo foi a elaboração de modelos quimiométricos utilizando dados de GC×GC-FID para a previsão de parâmetros físico-químicos de gasolina. Os métodos de seleção de variáveis siPLS e algoritmo genético foram utilizados na preparação de modelos para a previsão da temperatura de destilação a 10, 50 e 90 % v/v de destilado e no ponto final da destilação. Um modelo PLS foi construído para a previsão da densidade das amostras de gasolinas. Em um terceiro estudo, utilizando PARAFAC e GC×GC-FID, foi realizada a diferenciação entre amostras de gasolina do Brasil e da Venezuela, devido ao intenso contrabando de gasolina existente da Venezuela para o Brasil. Em uma quarta aplicação, foi desenvolvido um algoritmo para seleção de intervalos em dados de ordem superior, o qual foi avaliado através da quantificação de alergênicos em perfumes. Por último, foi relatado o primeiro uso de MCR-ALS na construção de modelos quimiométricos utilizando-se dados obtidos por GC×GC-FID para quantificação de óleo essencial de alecrim em amostras complexas preparadas em laboratório / Abstract: In this thesis, some chemometric models were built using chromatograms of different kinds of samples obtained by comprehensive two-dimensional gas chromatography with flame ionization detection (GC×GC-FID). In the first application, models were developed to identify adulteration in commercial gasoline samples. A non-adulterated gasoline sample provided by the Agência Nacional do Petróleo (ANP) was used to build a calibration and a validation sample set of adulterated gasoline. Then, the built model was used to evaluate other gasoline samples and the obtained results were compared to the results obtained by ANP. In a second study with gasoline, 51 samples were supplied by ANP with the results of the physicochemical tests used by ANP to evaluate the quality of gasoline samples. The aim of this study was the elaboration of chemometric models using GC×GC-FID chromatograms to preview some of the physicochemical tests used by ANP. The variable selection siPLS and genetic algorithm methods were used to build multivariate models in order to preview the distillation temperatures of gasoline at 10, 50 and 90 % v/v of distillated and at the final point of the distillation. A PLS model was built to predict the density of the gasoline samples. In a third study, using PARAFAC and GC×GC-FID, it was performed the differentiation between Brazilian and Venezuelan gasoline, due to the intense smuggling of gasoline from Venezuela to Brazil. In a fourth application, an algorithm was developed for variable selection in multi-way data, which was evaluated by quantification of allergens in perfume. Finally, it was reported the first use of MCR-ALS algorithm to develop chemometric models using data obtained by GC×GC-FID to quantify rosemary essential oil in complex samples prepared in laboratory / Doutorado / Quimica Analitica / Doutor em Ciências

Submitted by Albirene Sousa (albirene@ufpa.br) on 2011-03-28T15:11:44Z No. of bitstreams: 1 CHIACCHIO, Marcílio AlvesPPG Desenv Sust Trop Umido.pdf: 9551853 bytes, checksum: 94f89fd60bb85084e09e821b4ea59555 (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2011-03-28T15:11:44Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 CHIACCHIO, Marcílio AlvesPPG Desenv Sust Trop Umido.pdf: 9551853 bytes, checksum: 94f89fd60bb85084e09e821b4ea59555 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2010-03-26 / The current work is the construction of a study whose area of expertise lies in the fundamentals of the history of business. Taking as a case study Perfumarias Phebo, a company of Para, which stood in the national market of perfumery. The research method consisted of gathering information regarding the location, historical background and evolution of the administrative and financial Phebo in the period 1936 to 1988, made from information provided by the company, interviews and collection of material. Soon we could perceive the trajectory of a company using the pau-rosa (Aniba rosaeodora Durke), a raw material coming from the Amazon to create your product greater market acceptance, the Soap Phebo Odor de Rosas. In the context of regional development, fragrance internalized knowledge based on the use of local raw materials and became a leader in the Brazilian market a fragrance with the expansion of its plant to the cities of Sao Paulo and Feira de Santana-Ba. In 1988 the company was sold to the group Procter & Gamble Company, American multinational. That in turn in 1998 sold the company to the Casa Granado, who now exercise control over Phebo. / O atual trabalho é a construção de um estudo cuja área de conhecimento se encontra nos fundamentos da história de empresas, tendo como estudo de caso a Perfumarias Phebo, uma empresa paraense, que se destacou no mercado de perfumaria nacional. O método da pesquisa consistiu no levantamento de informações arquivística referentes a implantação, trajetória histórica e evolução administrativa-financeira da Phebo, no período de 1936 a 1988, realizada a partir de informações disponibilizadas pela empresa, entrevistas e coleta de material. A empresa utilizou o pau-rosa (Aniba rosaeodora Durke), uma matéria-prima oriunda da Amazônia, para criar o seu produto de maior aceitação no mercado, o Sabonete Phebo Odor de Rosas. No contexto de desenvolvimento regional, a perfumaria internalizou o conhecimento baseada no aproveitamento das matérias-primas locais e tornou-se líder no mercado de perfumaria brasileiro com a expansão da sua fábrica para as cidades de São Paulo e Feira de Santana-Ba. Em 1988 a empresa foi vendida para o grupo Procter & Gamble Company, multinacional americana, que por sua vez, em 1998, revendeu a empresa para as Casa Granado, empresa carioca, que atualmente exerce o controle sobre a Phebo.

Amber has been a recurring luxury around the Mediterranean Sea for thousands of years in various cultures. This study treats the first two centuries AD in the Roman Empire. The early centuries of the Empire saw a brief period of relative calm in which Baltic amber became a fashion in Rome. The purpose of this investigation is to explain how and why amber journeyed from the northern oceans of Germania into Rome, and how it expressed itself in the Empire. The Amber Road between the Baltic Sea and Rome is well trodden by modern researchers, but very little has been written about why amber arrived in various contexts. The questions are on the topics of the amber’s origin, how it was consumed and by whom. Throughout the study, the agency of amber is considered in order to approach the source material from a new angle. The first chapter investigates what effect the geographical origin and trade had on the agency of amber. The first part of the second chapter discusses amber in material culture as well as examples of amber items in ancient texts. The second part of the second chapter analyses perfume vessels made from amber. The last chapter is on the topic of amber as a luxury. The discussion and conclusion argues that rich women were major consumers of amber in Rome.

Made available in DSpace on 2014-06-11T19:29:50Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 0 Previous issue date: 2010-10-27Bitstream added on 2014-06-13T19:39:21Z : No. of bitstreams: 1 piva_pc_me_arafcl.pdf: 1100531 bytes, checksum: 6e334cdac43570120198fac9eff22173 (MD5) / Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior (CAPES) / Essa dissertação dispõe-se a estudar o romance O perfume do escritor alemão Patrick Süskind, publicado pela primeira vez em 1985. Tem-se o objetivo de demonstrar como essa obra, que antecipa no subtítulo ser a história de um assassino, se configura em romance policial. Para viabilizar o trabalho, busca-se subsídio na teoria da literatura policial e na história desse gênero, permitindo então estabelecer semelhanças e distinções. Antes, porém, discorre-se brevemente sobre os variados gêneros que compõem O perfume, que leva ao extremo a definição de romance, ou seja, uma composição híbrida por excelência. A obra em questão mescla, além das duas categorias principais do romance policial, a saber, enigma e negro, os gêneros predecessores a ele. O perfume rompe as convenções da ficção policial, com isso, aproximá-lo do gênero possibilita que outros romances sejam analisados pelo mesmo viés e possam eventualmente ser considerados também romances policiais, embora aparentemente estejam distantes do romance policial tradicional / This essay intends to study one of Patrick Süskind’s novels, Perfume, published for the first time in 1985. Our goal is to show how this work, which subtitle foresees the story of a killer, is configured in a crime novel. To make this concrete, we look for some data in the theories of the crime novel and in the history of this gender, which allow us to establish similarities and distinctions. Previously, however, we briefly expose the several literary genders that compose Perfume, carrying the definition of the novel too far; in other words, a hybrid composition par excellence. The work at issue blends, besides the two main categories of the crime novel (the mystery and the noir one) the predecessor genders to it. Perfume tears the conventions of crime fiction; then, approaching this novel to the gender makes it possible for other novels to be analyzed the same way, so that they can occasionally be considered crime novels as well, although apparently far from the traditional crime stories

La thèse porte sur la communication olfactive impliquant les individus, en position d’interactants, lors de situations de communication de « face-à-face ». Nous pensons que porter un parfum est une forme d’intention communicative sur ce que le sujet parfumé communicant aspire à être. Dans le champ des sciences de l’information et de la communication, la communication olfactive est étudiée dans un contexte théorique mobilisant des ressources issues de l’interactionnisme et de l’ethnométhodologie.Se parfumer, apparaissant comme une envie de communiquer sur son soi, nous essayons de mieux comprendre les processus de construction identitaire en articulation avec le soi. Cependant, comme l’odorat est un sens très intimiste, se référant notamment aux expériences olfactives passées, la qualité d’un parfum est une donnée très subjective. C’est pourquoi, sur le plan méthodologique, nous avons construit un protocole, axé sur la notion d’interaction (Goffman), afin de manipuler différents contextes d’échanges. L’objectif est de mieux comprendre quel rôle le parfum joue dans diverses situations de communication interpersonnelle.Une enquête qualitative a été menée sur 35 sujets, issus deux pays voisins, la Suisse et la France. Chaque interview en profondeur est basée sur un test projectif où le sujet est amené à construire la représentation d’un individu communiquant en fonction d’une senteur. Les résultats montrent que ne pouvant nous « réapproprier » la perception de l’autre, nous sommes contraints d’inférer, à partir de son comportement et de notre propre expérience, ce qu’il ressent. Le sujet infère des informations qu’il juge adéquates et pertinentes sur l’autre en se basant sur son vécu expérientiel en lien avec le parfum qu’il sent : l’odeur devient un dispositif d’information qui véhicule des données précédemment encodées. L’individu parfumé est alors un dispositif communicationnel exposé au nez de l’interactant. Ce dernier, récepteur de la communication olfactive, infère les intentions communicatives de l’individu parfumé à partir de l’odeur qu’il perçoit. L’odeur est un « marqueur moral » (Le Breton, 2006), révélatrice de ce que nous sommes intrinsèquement, en tant qu’individu, la bonté sent bon, tout ce qui est de l’ordre du malsain « empeste ». La thèse montre qu’hommes et femmes n’ont pas les mêmes impressions olfactives à propos des mêmes parfums, qu’il existe des formes de corrélations olfactives en termes d’imaginaire d’un individu à un autre, indépendamment de l’âge et du pays d’origine. Conduisant à construire une identité sociale, certains parfums inspirent plus de sympathie, voire de naïveté que d’autres. A l’inverse, certains provoquent du mépris et même du dégoût. / The thesis focuses on olfactory communication involving individuals in position of interactants during "face to face" communication situations. I believe that wearing a fragrance is one form of communicative intent on what the communicating subject aspires to be. In the field of information and communication sciences, olfactory communication is studied in a theoretical context which mobilises resources from interactionism and ethnomethodology. Since wearing perfume appears to be a desire to communicate about our self, I try to understand better the processes of identity construction in conjunction with the self. However as the sense of smell is very intimate, for instance it refers to past olfactory experiences, the quality of a fragrance is a very subjective data. Therefore, my methodology was built according to a protocol based on the concept of interaction (Goffman) in order to handle different contexts of exchanges. The aim is to understand better what role scent plays in various situations of interpersonal communication.A qualitative survey was conducted on 35 subjects from two neighboring countries, Switzerland and France. Each in-depth interview is based on a projective test for which the subject is required to build a representation of a communicating individual according to a scent. The results show that since we cannot "reclaim" the perception of the other, we are forced to infer what he feels according to their behavior and our own experience. The subject infers information on the other he deems appropriate and relevant, based on his experiential background in relation with the perfume he smells: the odor becomes an information device that conveys previously encoded data. The perfumed individual is therefore a communicative device exposed to the nose of the interactant. The latter, receiving olfactory communication, infers the communicative intentions of the fragranced individual from the smell he perceives. The odor is a "moral marker" (Le Breton, 2006), revealing who we truly are as an individual, kindness smells good, everything dodgy "stinks." The thesis shows that men and women have different olfactory impressions about the same scents, that there are forms of correlations in terms of olfactory imagination from one individual to another, regardless of how old they are and where they come from. Some perfumes inspire more sympathy or even more ingenuousness than others in order to lead us towards building a social identity. However, others on the contrary can cause contempt and even disgust.

La notion d’ancrage est au cœur de cette thèse. Nous l’abordons dans sa dimension temporelle et spatiale. Nous partons de l’hypothèse que l’ancrage d’une activité est un construit permanent qui mobilise des ressources variables dans le temps pour répondre à un marché labile. D’un point de vue spatial, l’ancrage dépendrait de la capacité des acteurs à être mobiles. Nous travaillons cette hypothèse à partir du cas des entreprises de la filière des plantes à parfum, aromatiques et médicinales installées dans la vallée de la Drôme. Cette petite filière est riche de son originalité : multiplicité des avals, fonctionnement mondialisé faiblement soutenu par les institutions, politique de gamme, produits de qualité générique ou spécifique, pilotage par l’aval. Notre cadre théorique est celui de l’approche territoriale mobilisant les concepts d’acteurs et de ressources. Au-delà de la volonté d’ancrage personnel des entrepreneurs, les résultats soulignent d’abord une construction de l’ancrage dans une dynamique collective. Mais celle-ci a du mal à se structurer en raison de la compétition entre les entreprises. Avec le temps, les partages deviennent plus informels. Toutefois, l’agglomération de ces entreprises, l’offre variée qu’elles proposent autour des différents avals, contribuent à forger une réputation collective au sein de la filière. L’ancrage tient donc à ce construit collectif mais également à une capacité à renouveler des ressources en réponse au marché, qui réclame des gammes allant du produit générique au produit très spécifique, avec une part d’intrants symboliques de plus en plus forte. À cette fin, les entrepreneurs construisent des stratégies multilocales pour répondre au marché et assurer la pérennisation de l’entreprise. Au centre de l’agencement spatial émerge un territoire dans ses multiples dimensions, dont chacune fait ressource : réseau localisé d’entreprises, territoire identitaire (hérité et construit) auquel vient aujourd'hui se superposer un territoire de projet institutionnel, le projet Biovallée®. Au-delà de ce lieu d’ancrage, non balisé, s’organise une forme en réseau qui court-circuite l’emboitement traditionnel des échelles. Les ressources de cet Ailleurs sont multiples et sont sollicitées de façon flexible : marché, connaissances, financement et surtout production. Ainsi, l’ancrage s’inscrit dans un agencement spatial fluctuant qui permet l’adaptation à un marché de plus en plus labile. / This research is about the territorial anchoring of economic activities in less favored rural areas. We approach it in its temporal and spatial dimension. We start from the assumption that anchoring is a permanent movement which mobilizes variable resources meeting the needs of a labile market. From a spatial perspective, anchoring could depend on the ability of actors to be mobile. We have tested this hypothesis using the case study of companies working in the sector of perfume, aromatic and medicinal plants and geographically located in a rural area in Drôme valley. This small industry is indeed very original/off beat - multiple downstream markets, a range of products of generic or specific quality, buyers driven dynamic. This industry is very global and not protected by the common market organizations. The territorial approach is our theoretical framework mobilizing the concepts of actors and resources. Beyond the anchoring will of entrepreneurs, our results underline fist the impact of a collective dynamic on anchoring. But this collective resource is difficult to structure due partly to a competition between companies. Indeed, the dynamic tends to evolve towards a coopetition in which the shares are becoming more and more informal. However, agglomeration of these companies and the varied selection they offer around different targets contribute to the building of a collective reputation within the sector. The collective action is thus an important part of anchoring as much as the ability to renew resources to meet the demands of market calling for product lines going from generic product to very specific product with more symbolic input. In this context, entrepreneurs have multi-local strategies to meet demands and ensure the success of their business. In the heart of this spatial arrangement a territory in its many dimensions emerges -localized network of companies, identity place (inherited and built) and today an institutional project, on which the Biovallée project® is superimposed. Beyond this place of anchorage with fluid boundaries lies a network relation which shortcuts the traditional fitting of scales. The resources of this “elsewhere” are multiple and support the local system bringing market, knowledge, funding and raw material. Thus, the anchoring of these activities fits in a fluctuating spatial arrangement that enables adaptation to a labile context.

Cette étude ethnografique est le résultat d´une recherche dans l´ambiance en ligne, a partir des communautés de l´orkut et de groupes au facebook, sous la perspective de la formation de perceptions et sensibilités pour les processus de consommation, d´aprés l´articulation sur l´interativicté, multimedialité et accès aux ressources disponiblibles sur la plataforme. Dans ce but, sur le contexte d´une anthropologi d´inspiration phenomenologique, ave les sens, la consommation et le cyberspace, on essay de comprendre comment se passent les practiques sur la perception et la consommation dans les communautés Perfumistas (Parfumistes) et Apaixonados por Perfume (Parssionés par le Parfum) et dans les groupes Apaixonados por Perfume e Perfumaria Brasil (Parfumerie Brésil), par moyen de la observation participative et des entretiens/interviews demi-structurés, en allant aussi une pensée aux potentialités que les réseaux sociaux puissent offri, au niveau de la connaissance, les relations, les liens, les disputes, les identités, les caractères personnels e corporels autour de l´aprentissage sur les parfums. / Esta etnografia resultou de uma pesquisa no ambiente on line, a partir das comunidades do Orkut e dos grupos no Facebook, sobre perfumaria, dentro da perspectiva de formação de percepções e sensibilidades para os processos de consumo, articulados pela interatividade, multimidialidade e acessibilidade aos recursos disponíveis na plataforma. Neste sentido, no contexto de uma antropologia de inspiração fenomenológica, com os sentidos, o consumo e o ciberespaço, busca-se comprender com se configuram as práticas sobre percepção e consumo nas comunidades Perfumistas e Apaixonados por Perfumes, e, nos grupos Apaixonados por Perfumes e Perfumania Brasil, por meio de observação participante e entrevistas semi-estruturadas, pensando ainda nas potencialidades que as redes sociais oferecem, em nível de conhecimento, relações, laços, disputas, identidades, pessoalidades e corporalidades em torno do aprendizado sobre os perfumes.

The traditional assumption that perfumes are used only for masking of the body odour was doubted by the results of recent researches. In spite of the fact that the biological role of human body odour is very important, it is likely that perfumes are not in conflict with the body odour but there is mutual cooperation. Individuals could choose the scent which goes with their body odour instead of hiding it. In the theoretical part of this thesis I describe a dual inheritance theory, which is a basic concept for our research. We have been concerned with the interaction between biological effects of body odour and social effects of perfumes. Moreover, we have worked on the assumption that the body odour of relatives is similar. We have tested if people are better in their choice of the appropriate perfume for their relatives than for anyone else, in this case partners. Which perfume fits into which body odour was assessed by the independent evaluators of opposite sex because one of the main objectives of chemical signalling is to attract a potential partner. Surprisingly, the results of our research have shown that in the case of couples, the samples of the body odour and perfumes chosen by female partners were slightly better evaluated than the perfumes chosen by men themselves. Moreover, there were...