Esta dissertação aborda as práticas de produção da publicidade articuladas ao mundo social. O objetivo geral de pesquisa é compreender os tensionamentos da articulação da publicidade com a sociedade contemporânea no que tange aos estereótipos mobilizados na criação, segundo a perspectiva de publicitários atuantes em agências e produtoras audiovisuais em Porto Alegre/RS. Estamos considerando a publicidade como processo sociocultural e, por isso, nosso aporte teórico aborda a intersecção presente entre comunicação e cultura através de autores como Williams e Hall; para tratar a publicidade acionamos autores como Rocha, Piedras e Wottrich; as práticas de produção da publicidade por meio de autores como Hansen, Silva e Toaldo, Petermann e Rocha; e o estereótipo a partir de autores como Gastaldo, Johnson e Hall. No âmbito empírico, de vertente qualitativa, a unidade de pesquisa é constituída por quatro publicitários (profissionais de agências de publicidade e produtoras audiovisuais) com quem realizamos entrevistas semipadronizadas sucessivas. Além disso, consultamos dados secundários provenientes de fontes especializadas no mercado publicitário, do CONAR e da mídia em geral. Como resultados, emergiram aspectos que posicionam a publicidade contemporânea brasileira diante da questão do estereótipo, entre os interesses econômicos e as demandas sociais: a regulação como via pela qual o estereótipo historicamente entra em pauta na publicidade brasileira, o movimento sutil da publicidade global e local rumo ao enfrentamento da reprodução do estereótipo, os limites para mudança impostos pelos condicionamentos da produção institucionalizada e as demandas pela continuidade do debate a partir das questões que emergem do público e da sociedade civil. / This dissertation addresses the advertising production practices articulated to the social world. The general objective of the research is to understand the tensions between the articulation of advertising and contemporary society regarding the stereotypes mobilized in creation, according to the perspective of advertisers working in agencies and audiovisual producers in Porto Alegre / RS. We are considering advertising as a sociocultural process and, therefore, our theoretical contribution addresses the present intersection between communication and culture through authors such as Williams and Hall; to deal with advertising we trigger authors like Rocha, Piedras and Wottrich; the practices of production of advertising by authors such as Hansen, Silva and Toaldo, Petermann and Rocha; and the stereotype from authors like Gastaldo, Johnson and Hall. In the qualitative field, the research unit is made up of four publicity agents (professionals of advertising agencies and audiovisual producers) with whom we conduct successive semipadronized interviews. In addition, we consult secondary data from specialized sources in the advertising market, CONAR and the media in general. As results, emerged aspects that position the Brazilian contemporary advertising before the stereotype question, between the economic interests and the social demands: the regulation as the route through which the stereotype historically enters in the agenda in Brazilian publicity, the subtle movement of the global and local publicity the limits to change imposed by the constraints of institutionalized production, and the demands for the continuity of the debate from the issues that emerge from the public and from civil society.

Staring to explore the fashionable biker jacket from the fifties lead to the discover that it hasn’t changed much since its origin. The stereotyped biker jacket with the genuine black leather and raw details is an impact model and thought the jacket no longer is worn while riding a bike is it still presenting an image of a rebellious life.The aim of this work is to explore our traditional view of the biker jacket through material and shape. Discovering that the bikers riding position has big similarities with a standing cow gave background to the material used in the classical jackets, the cow. A living animal, a material that once lived. To use the cows and the biker’s upper body as a model, recreating its shape into biker jacket’s to develop the shape of the biker jacket further. By experimenting with untraditional non-textile materials instead of using leather hopefully develop the traditional view of a jacket and bring alternative material and construction forward. Conclusion of the work is that when the materials with strong associations are mixed with the biker shape the materials take over and the definition of the biker jacket becomes more complex. New questions that has arise could be the use of other technical materials, what happens when giving the jacket other functions, is it still a biker jacket then. / Program: Modedesignutbildningen

The general motive of this work will be to try to develop an new way of using mathematics in a fashion design process.By using mathematics in order to make a way to calculate what will be a part of the collection and what it will look like. The background for this work is mathematics, deconstruction and the skinhead uniform consisting of a bomber jacket, shirt and denim jeans.The aim is to explore a mathematical formula as a design method for new expression in menswear.A mathematic formula which decides what garment, material and construction-method to use in an outfit. Using the formula to give me the parts/ingredients, a construction-method and fabric that I can use to make the outfit, after that I use my ingredients/parts to create new shapes out of the parts given to me by the formula. A strive for a more controlled and distanced relationship to your work is something that I tried to developed in my work by using a mathematical formula as a tool. There are potentials in using a mathematical formula in designing a collection. But also obstacles to pass in order to have a focused outcome. / Program: Modedesignutbildningen

Esta dissertação estuda os estereótipos sobre o negro na sociedade brasileira e, investiga, em especial, o investimento ideológico marcado no léxico para produção e reprodução de discriminação racial. Acreditamos que o conceito de estereótipo seja chave para entendermos as complexas relações raciais no Brasil e o controle social exercido sobre o negro na sociedade brasileira por meio do discurso. O escopo teórico para desenvolvimento desta pesquisa é baseado na teoria da Análise Crítica do Discurso, especialmente, nas contribuições teóricometodológicas de van Dijk (2008) e Norman Fairclough (1989). Recorremos aos estudos de Fernandes (2007), Bhabha (2005), Bauman (2001), entre outros, para explorarmos esta temática e estabelecermos relações entre discurso, escolhas lexicais e estereótipos. Para tanto, foram selecionados Boletins de Ocorrência Policial da Decradi/SP (Delegacia de Crimes Raciais e Delitos de Intolerância de São Paulo) e Depate/DF (Departamento de Atividades Especiais da Polícia Civil do Distrito Federal) sobre preconceito e discriminação racial em São Paulo, SP, e no Distrito Federal, DF, no período de 2000 a 2009. Este corpus permitiu reconhecer questões referentes ao preconceito, a partir de pistas lingüístico-discursivas utilizadas nos discursos dos acusados de racismo. / This dissertation studies the stereotypes on the Negro in the Brazilian society and researches, with special emphasis, the ideological investment registered in the lexicon for the production and reproduction of racial discrimination. We consider the concept of stereotype as a key element for understanding the complex racial relations in Brazil and the social control by the speech over the Negro in the Brazilian society. The theoretical guideline for the realization of this research is based on the theory of Critical Analysis of the Speech, specially the theoretic and methodological contributions of Van Dijk (2008) and Norman Fairclough (1989). We turn to the studies of Fernandes (2007), Bhabha (2005), Bauman (2001), among others in order to explore this thematic and to establish relations among speech, lexical choices and stereotypes. For such purposes, we selected Police Reports of Decradi/SP (Police Office against Racial Crimes and Intolerance Faults of Sao Paulo) and Depate/DF (Department of Special Activities of the Civilian Police of the Federal District) over prejudice and racial discrimination in Sao Paulo/SP, and in the Federal District/DF, in the period of 2000 until 2009. This corpus allowed the recognition of issues related to prejudice provided by the linguistic and discursive clues used in the speech by those accused of racism.

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There are several approaches to brand image measurement. The main aim of this thesis is to understand which of the two most common approaches, namely the personification and the direct approach, should be preferred. The personification approach adopts the brand = person metaphor (if the brand came to life as a person would s/he be trustworthy?), while the direct approach simply asks 'Do you think this brand is trustworthy?'. The main method used is to compare their explanations of typical outcomes (dependent variables) in a series of online surveys. Two different dimensions of brand image (warmth and competence) are considered for different types of brand (product, employer and corporate). The thesis uses the 'journal ready format' where a series of related papers form the main part of the work. This thesis adopts a quantitative approach and presents the results from four empirical studies. To compare the two approaches to brand image measurement, Study I (Journal Article I) compared two types of brands (product and corporate) and the two types of brand image measurement approach. In Study II and Study III (Journal Article II), the context was shifted to employer branding, when comparing the two approaches. The analysis of the first and the second studies showed no consistent pattern and no systematic advantage for the personified approach. Indeed the two types of measure appeared quite similar in many respects. When trying to explain the results, task difficulty emerged as a possible explanation and was investigated via Study III and Study IV (Journal Article III). Task difficulty was not lower for the personified approach as expected. While there is a rich body of brand image literature using either personification or direct measurement approaches, there is no research comparing them in the same context/setting to understand any differences between these approaches. Two main conclusions emerged from this research to contribute to the market research literature. This research shows that there is no systematic statistical benefit from adopting the personification approach. Task difficulty varied with age and education, but not as expected from the literature, a finding that might be considered in all survey research, not just that involving brand image.

Forced displacement is the crises of our time as it has reached an unprecedented magnitude and rate, which exceeds the capacity of the international relief system and required efforts from global citizens, institutions, governments and communities. Social psychology has an important role in this needed mass response, to provide a better understanding of how the forcibly displaced people deal with their situation and how they are affected by it. Taking into consideration the sharp gap of resources available to the international relief system, it is especially important to understand the natural mechanisms of support the affected communities have, which can be an effective tool to build more efficient interventions and to empower marginalised communities and individuals. This research project aims to explore one possible mechanism underlining social support among refugees of conflict in developing countries, and sought to answer three main questions: how refugees help each other? Does sharing an emergent identity of being a “refugee” facilitate support among them, similar to people affected by disasters? Does this shared identity-based support impact their health? After conducting a systematic literature review (Paper 1) of psychosocial support among refugees of conflict in developing countries, we identified that the main challenge was the stressors arising from the exile environment (secondary stressors) and found indications of shared identity-based support among them. To do further exploration with social identity in mind, we conducted an 8-month ethnography (Paper 2) with Syrian refugees in Jordan that revealed an emergent shared “refugee” identity which seems to stem from a sense of common fate and motivates providing help to other refugees in addition to creating new social networks in exile that facilitates support efficiently. To better understand the secondary stressors (Paper 3), we conducted a survey (N = 305) and combined it with ethnographic data to find that Syrian refugees in Jordan suffer the most from financial stressors, due to loss of income and high living expenses; environmental stressors arise from exile and are either circumstantial (e.g., services and legal requirements) or created by this environment (e.g., instability and lack of familiarity); social stressors, directly related to social relations (e.g., discrimination & exploitation). In order to explore the process of support and the exact role of shared identity, we conducted two surveys (Paper 4) among Syrian refugees in Jordan (N = 156) and Turkey (N = 234) and used path analysis to build a model, which suggested that shared social identity is an important predictor of providing support and collective efficacy, which in turn has a positive association with general health of the refugees. We found indications that such positive associations could have a buffering effect in counter to the negative effect of stressors and stress on the health of refugees. We do acknowledge the stigmatic nature of a “refugee” identity and that there are other sources of support among the refugees. Nevertheless, we suggest that shared social identity can be a valuable resource in the field of psychosocial support among refugees of conflict in developing countries, especially if incorporated in the design of community level intervention.

Markus and Kitayama (1991) developed self-construal theory, and proposed that independent and interdependent self-construals would account for cultural variations in cognition, emotion and motivation. Based on this theory and Vignoles and colleagues' (2016) reconsideration of self-construal measurement, this thesis investigates if a multi-dimensional model of self-construal helps explain cultural differences better than previous studies using the conventional two-dimensional model, as well as reporting the development of a scale that unpacks eight different ways of being independent and interdependent in multiple cultures. The thesis includes three studies. Focusing on the cultures of China and the UK, Study 1 explores if a seven-dimensional self-construal model (Vignoles et al., 2016) helps provide previously missing evidence for the predicted mediation effects of selfconstrual on cultural differences in cognition, emotion and motivation. The results show that Chinese and British participants are significantly different in six dimensions of self-construal, and explicit self-construal significantly mediated cultural differences in certain aspects of cognition, emotion and motivation. In the same two cultures, Study 2 examines individualism and collectivism priming techniques, using the seven-dimensional self-construal model to detect what two commonly used selfconstrual primes actually manipulate. The results indicate that Similarities vs. Differences with Family and Friends task (SDFF) and Sumerian Warrior Story (SWS) cue different aspects of self-construal. Effects of SWS show a similar profile across the two cultures, whereas SDFF has a much stronger effect on Chinese participants than British participants. Study 3 reports the development of a new self-construal scale. By introducing a new factor and extending the participants to 13 countries, the final version is a 48-item eight-dimensional self-construal scale. The importance of the multidimensional model and the new measure are discussed.

We can easily and reliably identify the gender of an unfamiliar interlocutor over the telephone. This is because our voice is “sexually dimorphic”: men typically speak with a lower fundamental frequency (F0 - lower pitch) and lower vocal tract resonances (ΔF – “deeper” timbre) than women. While the biological bases of these differences are well understood, and mostly down to size differences between men and women, very little is known about the extent to which we can play with these differences to accentuate or de-emphasise our perceived gender, masculinity and femininity in a range of social roles and contexts. The general aim of this thesis is to investigate the behavioural basis of gender expression in the human voice in both children and adults. More specifically, I hypothesise that, on top of the biologically determined sexual dimorphism, humans use a “gender code” consisting of vocal gestures (global F0 and ΔF adjustments) aimed at altering the gender attributes conveyed by their voice. In order to test this hypothesis, I first explore how acoustic variation of sexually dimorphic acoustic cues (F0 and ΔF) relates to physiological differences in pre-pubertal speakers (vocal tract length) and adult speakers (body height and salivary testosterone levels), and show that voice gender variation cannot be solely explained by static, biologically determined differences in vocal apparatus and body size of speakers. Subsequently, I show that both children and adult speakers can spontaneously modify their voice gender by lowering (raising) F0 and ΔF to masculinise (feminise) their voice, a key ability for the hypothesised control of voice gender. Finally, I investigate the interplay between voice gender expression and social context in relation to cultural stereotypes. I report that listeners spontaneously integrate stereotypical information in the auditory and visual domain to make stereotypical judgments about children's gender and that adult actors manipulate their gender expression in line with stereotypical gendered notions of homosexuality. Overall, this corpus of data supports the existence of a “gender code” in human nonverbal vocal communication. This “gender code” provides not only a methodological framework with which to empirically investigate variation in voice gender and its role in expressing gender identity, but also a unifying theoretical structure to understand the origins of such variation from both evolutionary and social perspectives.

Aimer, boire et manger: c'est ainsi que se définit la « bonne vie » selon les fabliaux. L'idéal qui prévaut dans ces contes, profondément ancrés dans le monde matériel et centrés sur des préoccupations charnelles plutôt que spirituelles, est en effet celui la satisfaction des désirs corporels, de la recherche des plaisirs charnels et de la jouissance. L'alimentation, la boisson et la sexualité y sont si bien représentées que la bonne vie peut être envisagée comme un élément constitutif, voire un trait définitoire du fabliau. Omniprésente, elle se place incontestablement au carrefour d'un nombre important de problématiques et de traits caractéristiques du genre. Plus qu'un simple thème unificateur du corpus, elle a de véritables implications rhétoriques et stylistiques. Son écriture, qui se révèle stéréotypée et qui reste « en surface », traduit l'ancrage du fabliau dans le monde matériel, concret et quotidien et contribue à la construction de l'idéal de plaisir et de satisfaction immédiate, aisément accessible à l'ensemble des estats de la société, que véhiculent ces contes. Il existe ainsi une véritable « poétique de la bonne vie » dans les fabliaux. Toutefois, le monde qu'ils donnent à voir n'est pas exclusivement positif et joyeux et la mauvaise vie y a également sa place, en particulier au sein du système de valeurs propre au genre et fondé sur la recherche de l'équilibre et la morale de la compensation. Enfin, en apparaissant comme une autre voie possible qui s'inscrit, non pas en opposition, mais à côté de celles proposées par les genres contemporains, la bonne vie contribue à faire du fabliau un genre singulier au sein du paysage littéraire de l'époque. / Loving, eating, and drinking: that is how the fabliau defines “the good life”. The prevailing ideal of these tales, which are deeply rooted in the material world and preoccupied with the carnal instead of the spiritual, encompasses the search for sensual pleasures and the satisfaction of earthly desires. Ever-present, food, drink and sexuality are so well represented that the good life may be seen as an integral part of that which defines the fabliau. More than just a theme which unifies the corpus, its presence has definite rhetorical and stylistic implications. This writing of the good life, which uses stereotypes and thus remains on the descriptive surface of things, anchors the fabliau in the material world, in the concrete and the quotidian. It contributes to the creation of these tales’ hedonistic ideal, accessible to all levels of society, in which desires are immediately satisfied. The fabliaux thus transmit a veritable “poetics of the good life”. Nevertheless, the world these tales represent is not exclusively positive. A less joyful life also surfaces, especially as reflected in the genre’s value system, which seeks a balance between morality and compensation. As another possible path which runs not in opposition to but parallel to those offered by contemporary works, the good life helps to make the fabliau a singular genre at the heart of the period’s literary landscape.