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This paper explores the fundamental meanings of deconstruction in fashion design and has the aim to investigate deconstruction in feminine ideal. It also stresses other thoughts of deconstruction in terms of philosophy through Jacques Derrida, architecture and philosopher Peter Eisenman and how deconstruction can be applied to find parallels between its setting and the setting it is compared to. Since the 1960s, deconstruction is a term that has been interpreted within many fields and traversed across different media. Influential Japanese designers have used the term in their works, juxtapositioning them to traditional Western ideas to create clear contrasts between stereotypical and categorised perception and unconventional interpretations. During the 1980s, designers such as Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto explored the term to subsequently create a great distress in the fashion field. Their designs were examples of archetypes evoked from the past and presented as newborn strangers or dismantled ghosts. These designers investigated the mechanical functions of each archetype as they sought to find the meaning of each garment to later reinterpret its traditional essence. Also, they questioned the relationship between body and garment, raising thoughts of whether or not the bearer of the garment was personified to the garments traditional significance. The deconstructed element chosen for investigation in this project consists of a personification of the silhouette of the 1870s dress. This personification is discussed in terms of social and moral standards and constrictions as well as the political function of the dress. The fact that you could deconstruct a 1870s dress is clearly a way to take a historical archetype from its traditional meaning and place it into a new context. Similar to Jacques Derrida, the works of deconstruction in fashion design discuss our assumptions of archetypes and whether or not these archetypes can ever lack of historical or individual meaning. The constant dialogue with the past is a catalyst to reinterpret standardisations in fashion design through questioning the conformity of archetypes. / Program: Modedesignutbildningen

This study will explore the dichotomy of culture and psychological landscape in Edith Wharton The Age of Innocence. To lay the foundation for this study, I first consider how Ms. Wharton often employed dichotomy in her own life: her role as socialite and author, woman of old New York and European maverick, and her life as spouse or beloved. Compartmentalizing her lifes roles prevented her from having to compromise the distinct qualities of each paradigm. Similarly, in The Age of Innocence, Ellen and May are completely opposite representations of life and culture in the 1870s who cannot happily coexist together. Wharton draws this contrast by painting their psychological landscapes, relying heavily on the motifs of water and fire, elements that if combined are mutually destructive. Ellen is unpredictable, uncensored, and exotic even Promethean; Wharton uses images of fire to convey this mindset. Conversely, Mays character is often cold, controlled and pale; she is a sculpted product, not a creator. In rare moments, May is radiant, even warm, but she never approaches Ellens heat. Wharton emphasizes then that there is no true bridge between Ellens and Mays ways of living through Newland Archer who fails to cross from his world to Ellens even though his love for her is true and enduring. My writing will argue that Newland fails to consummate his love for Ellen because Wharton has drawn a character who lacks the ability to choose. Although he admires the fire he sees in Ellen, it is something he must do from afar, for he is a man ultimately made of water.

The purpose of this essay was to conduct a survey of the earliest workers at the Sandviken ironworks in Gävleborgs county, Sweden, during the period of 1863-1870 in order to determine their places of birth or origin. The study is primarily based around four books and one article which describe historiographic terms and methods, two books covering the processes behind industrialization and urbanization in the 19th century by historian Lars Nilsson and Welsh historian John Elliot. The two other works originate from Sandin, Sjödin and Skogsbergs book about the town of Sandviken and it’s earliest foundations alongside an article written by Yngve Terenius in 1968 covering the excavation of the canal in Sandviken. The essay’s survey area is limited to the immediate area surrounding the town of Sandviken.The majority of source materials come from the Sandviken municipality’s archives of the Sandviks ironwork company’s historical archives. There, the census records concerning the workers of the company throughout 1863, 1866 and 1870 were studied alongside the parish’s household examination rolls that detailed the birthplace and origins of the workers found within the census records. The result of this study shows that a majority of the workers present in Sandviken throughout the period of 1863-1870 came from the counties of Dalarna, Värmland and Västra Götaland respectively. To summarize, 529 workers’ backgrounds were surveyed. Of these 529 workers, 302 workers were born in counties outside of Gävleborg, whereas 102 hailed from Dalarnas county, 43 from Värmlands county, and 41 from Västra Götalands county. The remaining 227 workers were born in parishes within Gävleborgs county. Four parishes within the county had the largest contribution to the workers’ immigration during the period, namely: Ovansjö parish with 95 workers, Torsåker parish with 39, Högbo parish with 33 and finally Valbo parish with 21. The study showed that the amount of workers from Gävleborgs county steadily increased from 1866 to 1870. In accordance to Sandin et als. book and Terenius' article, they mention workers from Värmland and Västra Götaland as being of importance in the early days of the ironworks. This study confirms those theories. However, alongside the 529 workers there are 935 family members whom weren’t included in the survey. The study results are presented in circular diagrams under the section titled ”Undersökning”, and onwards. The diagrams titled ”tillfälligt anställda arbetare” cover the temporary workers at the ironworks for the year they’re represented. The other 9 diagrams titled ”arbetares födelseorter” pertain to the birthplace of the workers for each year. The final six diagrams under the title ”statistisk sammanslagning” are diagrams describing a merge in numerical data from the surveys of temporary workers and the house examination rolls for each year they’re represented / Uppsatsens syfte var att kartlägga och utforska ursprunget hos de första Sandviksarbetarna mellan perioden 1863-1870. Utifrån forskningsläget framhävs bland annat teorier om industrialisering och urbanisering, samt demografiska grunder som tillämpas i uppsatsens undersökning. Däribland dem behandlas Lars Nilssons bok Den urbana transitionen som beskriver Sveriges urbaniseringsförlopp under 150 år, och engelsmannen John Elliotts bok The industrial development of the Ebbw valleys som förklarar förändringen av ett dalområde i sydöstra Wales genom Storbritanniens industrialisering. För en koppling till den demografiska undersökningen beblandas även Martin Dribe och Maria Stanfors bok Demografins grunder, syftandes till att förse uppsatsen med teorimaterial. Däribland dessa verk finns två litterära källor som beskriver Sandvikens allra tidigaste stadier för både bruket och orten, Slaggsten och syren av Gösta Sandin, Stig Sjödin och Stig Skogsberg som lägger en bakgrund till Sandvikens framväxt och Om kanalen genom Sandviken tagen ur 1968 års upplaga av tidskriften Ur Gästrikland av Yngve Terenius. Terenius behandlar kanalgrävandet i Sandviken 1862-1863, och beskriver hur flertalet av arbetarna som var verksamma där härstammade från bland annat Värmland. Sandin et al. belyser att värmlänningar tillika dalslänningar var verksamma i Sandviken under anläggandet av bruket, och stadens tidiga framväxt. Avgränsningarna drogs utefter geografiska aspekter och Sandvikens bruk med tillhörande närområde inom Högbo socken blev styrande. Undersökningsfrågan som riktades mot källmaterialet ämnade besvara varifrån de första arbetarna kom, vilka födelseorter de har, eller var de är skattskrivna ifall födelseorten saknas. Källmaterialet som användes härstammade från Sandviks historiska arkiv, och det som slutligen granskades var Sandvikens bruks mantalslängder för åren 1864, 1867 och 1870 där mantalslängderna avser det föregående året, förutom längden för år 1870. Kompletterande material till mantalslängderna behövdes för att fastslå arbetarnas födelseorter, därför blev husförhörslängderna för år 1861-1865 samt 1866-1870 hos Sandvikens kyrkoarkiv avseende Högboförsamling aktuella. Resultaten sammanställdes och presenterades genom cirkeldiagram, där arbetares födelseort eller skattskrivningsort påvisades. Resultatet av undersökningen visar i korthet att den arbetsmigration som Sandin et al. tillika Terenius omtalade anses ha stämt rörande Värmland, men att Dalarna var länet där de allra flesta arbetarna härstammade ur. Av samtliga 529 personer som återfinns i källmaterialet är majoriteten, uppemot 302 arbetare, från orter och län utanför Gävleborgs län, där 102 stycken arbetare härstammar från Dalarna. På andraplats kommer Värmlands län med 43 arbetare, och Västra Götalandslän på tredje plats med 41 arbetare. Utifrån Gävleborgs län och dess närliggande socknar var Ovansjö den socken som majoriteten av arbetarna härstammade från med 95 arbetare, följd av Torsåker med 39, Högbo med 33, och slutligen Valbo med 21 arbetare. Genom denna undersökning har ursprunget hos de tidigaste arbetarna vid Sandvikens bruk kartlagts, och den påvisade invandringen från andra län var markant.