L’allergie cutanée est un problème majeur de santé publique pouvant fortement impacter la vie de l’individu atteint. Une cause largement reconnue d’allergie de contact sont les substances parfumantes intégrées dans les produits cosmétiques. La réglementation cosmétique en vigueur oblige le fabricant à évaluer les risques de ces substances. Bien que certaines de ces substances soient également présentes dans les huiles essentielles, il n’existe pas à l’heure actuelle une telle réglementation pour les huiles essentielles. L’objectif de cette thèse a été de caractériser l’exposition à certaines substances parfumantes d’intérêt provenant de la consommation d’huiles essentielles et de produits cosmétiques. Nous avons d’abord étudié la consommation d’huiles essentielles au sein d’un panel représentatif de la population française. Nous avons ensuite défini les substances parfumantes sensibilisantes retrouvées dans ces huiles. L’exposition cutanée aux produits cosmétiques a également été étudiée. Enfin, ces données ont été croisées pour comparer l’exposition provenant de la consommation de ces deux produits au limonène en utilisant des méthodes statistiques probabilistes (Méthodes de Monte-Carlo). Cela a permis de démontrer que les huiles essentielles pouvaient être un fort contributeur dans l’exposition globale au limonène, pour certaines zones corporelles comme le visage. Il a donc été mis en évidence l’intérêt de la prise en compte des huiles essentielles, et non pas seulement des produits cosmétiques dans l’exposition globale à certains allergènes de contact, pour mieux protéger la population. / Skin sensitization is a public health issue in France and in the rest of Europe that can impact the life of the affected individual. A well-known cause of skin sensitization are the fragrance allergens present in cosmetics. The European cosmetic regulation in force to date requires the manufacturer to assess the risks of these substances prior to their placing on the market. Although some of these substances are also present in essential oils, there is currently no such regulation for these products. The aim of this work was to characterize the exposure to particular fragrance substances of interest due to the consumption of essential oils and cosmetics. At first, we studied the consumption of essential oils in a representative panel of the French population. Then, we defined the fragrance allergens found in these oils. We also defined dermal exposure to cosmetics. Finally, these data were crossed using probabilistic statistical methods (Monte-Carlo methods) to compare exposure to a particular allergen present in these two products: the limonene. This work permitted to demonstrate that essential oils can be a strong contributor in the global exposure to limonene, for particular body areas, e.g. face. This work therefore highlights the importance of taking into account essential oils, and not only cosmetics in the global exposure to particular contact allergens, in order to better protect the population.

Desmosomes are intercellular junctions that anchor intermediate filaments to the sites of intercellular contacts. They are critical for maintaining the integrity of tissues that experience constant mechanical and structural stresses, like the skin and heart. Perturbation of desmosomal adhesion can lead to devastating epidermal and myocardial diseases. However, little is known about the regulators of desmosomes and the role of desmosomes in cell signalling events. Recent work has suggested that iASPP, an inhibitor of the p53 family of proteins, localises at the intercalated discs where desmosomes reside. However, its role at the desmosomes has remained elusive. Thus, in this thesis, it was investigated whether iASPP is a dual function protein that links desmosome adhesion to gene expression and if desmosome-related diseases develop in the absence of iASPP. iASPP was found to be a novel regulator of desmosomes, co-localising with them by physically interacting with the desmosomal components desmoplakin and K5 intermediate filaments. Loss of iASPP resulted in increased phosphorylation and solubilisation of desmoplakin, leading to the formation of K5 aggregates. This culminated in disrupted intercellular adhesion and enhanced cellular migration. Consistent with the role of iASPP in the maintenance of desmosomal adhesion integrity, focal palmoplantar keratoderma was observed in iASPP-deficient mice — a disorder often associated with desmosome dysfunction. This was accompanied by disrupted intracellular signalling, as exemplified by the disrupted expression of differentiation markers; an increase in the thickness of cell layers expressing differentiation marker K1 was noted, and K5 and K6 cells were ectopically expressed throughout the diseased palmoplantar epidermis. Impaired intercellular adhesion and migration had consequences for wound healing, as iASPP-deficient mice exhibited delayed wound closure. Furthermore, defects in eyelid closure in iASPP-deficient mice were found to be due to increased apoptosis. The localisation of apoptotic cells at the leading edge of the eyelid epidermis implied that apoptosis might have occurred due to a loss of cell-matrix or cell-cell contact, i.e. anoikis. Taken together, these results suggest that iASPP is involved in pathological (palmoplantar keratoderma), physiological (wound healing) and developmental processes (embryonic eyelid closure) through its regulation of desmosomes and their dynamics. Therefore, iASPP represents a new candidate gene in cutaneous disorders and could be implicated in a variety of epidermal and myocardial diseases.

L’évaluation visuelle de lésions cutanées est l’analyse la plus couramment réalisée par les dermatologues. Ce diagnostic s’effectue principalement à l’œil nu et se base sur des critères tels que la taille, la forme, la symétrie mais principalement la couleur. Cependant, cette analyse est subjective car dépendante de l’expérience du praticien et des conditions d’utilisation. Nous proposons dans ce manuscrit (1) le développement d’une caméra multispectrale spécialement conçue pour un usage en dermatologie. Cette caméra multispectrale se base sur la technologie de roue porte-filtres composée de filtres interférentiels et d’un algorithme basé sur les réseaux de neurones générant un cube hyperspectral de données cutanées. Cet ensemble combine l’avantage d’un spectrophotomètre (information spectrale), et celui d’une caméra (information spatiale). Son intérêt est également de délivrer une information reproductible et indépendante des conditions d’acquisition. La mise en place d’un protocole d’acquisition de données de peaux saines issues de cinq des six phototypes existants a permis la validation de notre système en comparant les spectres générés par notre système avec des spectres théoriques acquis par un spectrophotomètre professionnel. (2) La réflectance spectrale de données de peau fournit une information précieuse, car directement liée à sa composition en chromophores. La mesure quantitative des propriétés optiques du tissu cutané peut être basée sur la modélisation de la propagation de la lumière dans la peau. Pour cela, nous nous sommes appuyés sur le modèle de Kubelka-Munk, auquel nous avons associé une méthode d’optimisation basée sur les algorithmes évolutionnaires. Cette dernière apporte une réponse à l’inversion de ce modèle. A partir de cette approche, la quantification de divers paramètres de la peau peut être obtenue, tels que la mélanine et l’hémoglobine. (3) La validation de cette méthodologie est effectuée sur des données pathologiques (vitiligo et melasma) et permet de quantifier une différence de composition entre zone saine et zone affectée sur une même image. / Visual evaluation of cutaneous lesions is the analysis the most commonly performedby dermatologists. This diagnostic is mainly done by naked eye and is based on criterionsuch as the size, shape, symmetry but principally on colour of the lesions. However, thisanalysis is subjective because it depends on the practician experience and the acquisitionconditions. We propose in this dissertation (1) the development of a multispectralcamera specifically dedicated for dermatological use. This device is based on a filterwheel composed of interferential filters and a neural network-based algorithm, generatinga hyperspectral cube of cutaneous data. This setting combines advantage of both spectrophotometer(spectral information) and digital camera (spatial information). Its maininterest is also to provide reproducible information which is independent of the acquisitionconditions. The setting-up of an acquisition protocol of healthy skin data from five of thesix exisiting skin phototypes allows the validation of our system by comparing spectragenerated by our system and theoretical spectra acquired by professional spectrophotometer.(2) Skin spectral reflectance provides precious information because it is directly linkedto the skin chromophore composition. Quantitative measure of cutaneous tissue opticalproperties can be based on the modelisation of light propagation in skin. For this purpose,we based our method on Kubelka-Munk model with which we associated an optimizationmethod based on evolutionary algorithm. This method helps for the model inversion.Using this approach, quantification of diverse parameters of skin can be obtained such asmelanin and haemoglobin. (3) The validation of this model is performed on disease skindata (vitiligo and melasma) and allows to quantify difference between healthy and affectedskin area within a single image.

La Biometrogie cutanée est un nouveau spectre de différentes méthodes d'évaluation qui permettent de mesurer les différents paramètres de la peau même en cas des petites modifications. Dans la première partie de nos travaux, nous avons étudié différentes capacités de ces méthodes afin de les corréler avec d'autres données cliniques et histologiques. Ces données nous ont encouragés à découvrir de plus en plus la pigmentation de la peau qui est un peu plus compliquée que les autres paramètres. Par conséquent, sur la deuxième partie, nous nous sommes concentrés sur la biologie cutanée en particulier sur la morphologie et l'activité des mélanocytes. Les travaux de cette thèse ont porté sur les effets de la phénytoïne sur les mélanocytes humains afin de savoir si cette molécule peut être un traitement efficace pour le vitiligo. Dans un premier temps, nous avons évalué deux concepts : tout d'abord et pour la première fois, les effets in vitro des différentes concentrations de phénytoïne sur la morphologie et l'activité des mélanocytes humains, et parallèlement, nous avons mis en place la méthode du transfert de mélanosomes sur les mélanocytes et des kératinocytes humains. Dans un deuxième temps, nous avons procédé à l'évaluation in vivo de la forme topique à différentes concentrations à l'aide d'une étude in vivo sur des cochons d'Inde noirs. Notre travail constitue une étape clé dans la compréhension des mécanismes d'action de la phénytoïne sur les mélanocytes humains qui contribuerait à l'amélioration des pratiques cliniques et donc à la qualité de vie des patients souffrant de troubles pigmentaire. / Cutaneaous Biometrogy is a new vast spectrum of measuring methods wich provide the possibility to measure the différents parameteres of the skin even in the case of small changes. In the first part of this work, we studied various capabilities of these methods in order to correlates them with other clinical and histological data. These data encouraged us to discover more and more the skin pigmentation which is a little more complicated than the other parameters.So, on the second part, we concentrated more on cutaneaous biology particularily on the melanocytes morphology and activity.The work of this thesis focused on the effects of phenytoin on human melanocytes in order to know if this molecule can be eventually an available treatment for vitiligo.Fisrt, we evaluated two concepts : for the first time we evaluated the in vitro effects of the different concentrations of phenytoin on the morphology and activity of human melanocytes and, in parallel, we implemented the method of transfert of melanosomes on human melanocytes and keratinocytes.In a second step, the topical form of phenytoin at different concentrations was evaluated through an in vivo study on black ginea pigs.Our work is a key step on understanding the mechanisms of avtion of phenytoin on human melanocytes which would contribute to the improvement of clinical practices and therefore to the quality of life of patients suffering from depilatory disorders.

La apigenina (4', 5, 7 trihidroxiflavona), flavonoide presente en distintos vegetales, tiene numerosas características saludables por las cuales elegimos un derivado hidrosoluble, la apigenina potásica, para el presente estudio.Hemos estudiado su actividad frente a la inflamación aguda, al cáncer de próstata y a los daños causados por las radiaciones, tanto ionizantes como no ionizantes (radiación UV), utilizando diversas técnicas, tanto in vitro como en modelos in vivo. Este flavonoide demostró actividad antiinflamatoria, reduciendo la inflamación hasta un 78%. Asimismo, la apigenina potásica mostró actividad quimiopreventiva frente al cáncer de próstata, al reducir la viabilidad y la migración e inducir apoptosis in vitro, y aumentar la supervivencia de animales con tumores. Además, la apigenina potásica presentó efecto geno- y citoprotector frente a la radiación ionizante (radiación γ y X), con un factor de protección de un 27-35 % en linfocitos humanos, y de un 50-86 % en dos líneas celulares de próstata. Por último, el flavonoide ha demostrado proteger frente al fotoenvejecimiento causado por la radiación UV, reduciendo la displasia epitelial y la elastosis dérmica, dos marcadores de cáncer cutáneo; además, ha sido posible detectar la apigenina en diversos tejidos, entre ellos el cerebro. / Apigenin (4', 5, 7 trihidroxyflavone), a flavonoid present in different plants, shows some healthy characteristics for which a water soluble derivated, potassium apigenin, was chosen for this study.It has been studied the activity of potassium apigenin against acute inflammation, prostate cancer and the effect of ionising and non-ionising (UV) radiations, using different techniques, both in vitro and in vivo models.This flavonoid showed anti-inflammatory effects, inhibiting the inflammation by up to 78%. It also demonstrated chemopreventive activity against prostate cancer, by reducing the cell viability and migration, inducing apoptosis and increasing the animal survival. Moreover, potassium apigenin showed genoprotector and citoprotector effects against ionising radiation (radiation γ and X), with a protection factor of 27-35% in human lymphocytes and of 50-86% in two prostate cell lines. Finally, the flavonoid protected from the photoaging induced by UV radiation, diminishing epithelial dysplasia and dermal elastosis, two markers of skin cancer; furthermore, potassium apigenin was detected in some tissues, brain among them.

Keloid disease (KD) is a benign fibroproliferative dermal disease of unknown aetiopathogenesis that occurs in genetically susceptible individuals. KD shows high heterogeneity within the lesion, harbouring different immune cell profiles, which are poorly characterised in KD at different lesional sites. Although, it has long been appreciated that chronic inflammation and dermal fibrosis is associated with other fibrotic diseases (e.g. scleroderma), this link has not, yet, been established in KD through direct evidence. Additionally, the limited availability of a simple KD animal model has hindered our understanding of the underlying pathogenesis of KD. Therefore, the main objectives were a) to identify and profile different immune cells at defined KD lesional and histological sites, b) to further characterize the potential contribution of viral particles in KD by investigating the gene and protein expression profile of toll like receptors that recognise viral particles in KD, and c) to develop an optimized long-term serum-free organ culture (OC) model for KD research as a tool for probing novel hypotheses in KD pathobiology deduced from a) and b) and to also validate the reliability and instructiveness of this novel ex vivo KD model with conventional (e.g. dexamethasone) and potential future anti-KD compounds [(-)-epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG) and plasminogen activator inhibitor-1 (PAI-1) knock-down by siRNA]. To achieve above objectives, different cellular and molecular techniques were applied. Immune profiling of KD (chapter 2) at defined lesional and histological sites generated the first comprehensive analysis of KD-associated inflammatory cell infiltrates. This work demonstrated for the first time the presence of specific type of chronic inflammation in KD that resembles the formation of tertiary lymphoid tissues (TLTs) (in 14.7%, out of 68 KD cases). Although, these TLTs are not strictly linked to defined lesional sites within the KD, they are similar in structure to mucosa-associated lymphoid tissue (MALT). Therefore, we named this phenomenon as keloid-associated lymphoid tissue (KALT). Immunophenotyping of KD lesional sites also showed a predominance of T-cells, B-cells, M2 macrophages and OX40L+ degranulated mast cells in intralesional and perilesional sites of KD compared to normal skin and normal scar tissue. In the epidermis, Langerhans cells showed no changes, whereas the intra-epidermal T-cells were significantly increased in both the intralesional and perilesional sites of KD with an increased CD4:CD8 ratio. Intra-epidermal B-cells were only rarely found in KD. Interestingly, there was no significant statistical difference between intralesional and perilesional sites of KD immunophenotyping. These abnormal immune profiles suggest the persistence of non-resolving inflammation presence towards unknown stimuli, which require further investigation. The chronic inflammation could be followed by a reparative phase in a repetitive manner leading to KD formation. Evaluation of toll-like receptor (TLR) gene and protein expression in KD showed a significant increase in the expression of intra-epidermal TLR-6, -7 and dermal TLR-8. Since these TLRs are typically up regulated during anti-viral responses, these results further support the hypothesis that certain viruses or yet unidentified ligand may play a role in KD pathogenesis (chapter 3). A successful long-term, serum-free keloid OC model was established using a 4 mm sized punch biopsy embedded in collage matrix as air liquid interface in supplemented William’s E medium for up to 6 weeks (Chapter 4).