Brand heritage and consumer perceived value are two concepts which separately have received a growing interest among academics for quite some time. However both of them combined, hence consumers’ perception of the value of brand heritage is a relatively unexplored field of research. This study therefore intends to explore how consumers perceive the value of brand heritage of luxury fashion brands. To achieve this purpose, the study will investigate consumers’ perception of the value of brand heritage of four European luxury fashion brands – Burberry, Chanel, Gucci, and Louis Vuitton – which serve as illustrative/reference brands in this study. These four European luxury fashion brands are chosen as illustrative brands in this study based on the determination that heritage is a central part of their brands. Secondary data was collected through Internet based document analysis of the illustrative brands to determine whether these qualify as heritage brands. Furthermore, semi-structured interviews were conducted to collect primary data for the purpose to explore how consumers perceive the value of brand heritage of the illustrative brands. The findings of the study reveal that consumers perceive the value of the brand heritage of the illustrative brands because it serves as a source of credibility and trust between the consumers and the brands. There is a perception that the brands have managed to maintain a certain standard regarding quality and craftsmanship, and likewise delivered according to consumers’ expectations over time. Furthermore consumers perceive the value of the brand heritage of the illustrative brands since it contributes to a sense of belongingness and social acceptance. They value the identity and meaning of the illustrative brand, hence the perception that the brands have managed to persistently deliver according to their core values and promises over time. It provides the consumers with the opportunity to connect with the brands on a personal level and to create their own individual identities and lifestyles through the brands. All this, in combination with the perception of the brands as timeless and durable, that they inhabit a sense of credibility and trust, which in the long run may generate loyalty - they value that the brands are loyal to them - conclude how consumers perceive the value of the brand heritage of the illustrative brands.

I den allt mer föränderliga modeindustrin blir det vanligare att företag väljer att rebranda sig för att upprätthålla relevans på marknaden. Rebranding kan innebära allt från subtila visuella förändringar till mer omfattande processer som att ändra en hel företagsstrategi. Syftet med rebranding är att öka brand equity men resultatet kan bli det motsatta om processen inte utförs på rätt sätt. Eton är ett svenskt marknadsledande skjortföretag som grundades 1928 i Gånghester utanför Borås. I denna studie undersöks hur Eton genom rebranding har lyckats hålla sig relevanta samtidigt som dem tagit vara på sitt arv. Syftet med denna studie är att undersöka relationen mellan brand heritage och rebranding på Eton. Resultatet visar att anledningar som ligger till grund för Etons framgång är att de jobbar med intern utbildning, värnar om kärnvärden och aldrig kompromissar med skjortans kvalitet. Det råder en vedertagen intern uppfattning om hur mycket Eton har att berätta om sin historia, dock visar studien att brand heritage är något som företaget bör kommunicera utåt på ett bättre sätt. Studien visar att rebranding har påverkat Etons brand heritage. I denna fallstudie har data samlats in genom semistrukturerade intervjuer som har genomförts med nyckelpersoner på Eton. Datamaterialet har bearbetats genom en induktiv tematisk analys. I det teoretiska ramverket beskrivs modeller angående modecykeln, brand heritage inverkan på köpintentioner och skillnaden mellan evolutionär och revolutionär rebranding. Dessa sätts i relation till resultatet i diskussionen. / In the ever changing fashion industry, rebranding is becoming a common strategy for companies to stay relevant. A rebranding process can consist of everything from subtle visual changes to more extensive processes as in changing a corporate strategy. The purpose of rebranding is to increase the brand equity, however if the processes isn’t executed properly it may have the opposite effect. Eton is a Swedish fashion brand that specializes in shirtmaking, they were founded in 1928 in Gånghester outside of Borås. This study examines how they have maintained their relevance on the market through rebranding without disregarding their brand heritage. The purpose of the study is to investigate the relationship between rebranding and brand heritage at Eton. The result shows that Etons attention to detail, internal education and their commitment to the core values are the key factors to their success. There is an internal well established understanding of the rich history of the brand, however the study shows that Eton could communicate this more effectively to external stakeholders. This study shows that rebranding has affected Etons brand heritage. In this case study, data has been collected through semi-structured that has taken place with representatives with management positions of Eton. The data material has been processed by inductive thematic analysis. The theoretical framework describes different models regarding the fashion cycle, the effect of brand heritage on purchasing intentions and the difference between evolutionary and revolutionary rebranding. In the discussion the relationship between these factors are investigated.

A review of past literature has highlighted that the incorporation of corporate social responsibility (CSR) values in brand communications is difficult to get right. In particular, limited prior research has examined the evolving nature of CSR and how it is enacted within brand heritage and authenticity. In addressing this gap, this research examines the CSR reporting of two organisations and seeks to interpret how CSR initiatives are enacted within their individual brand heritage and authenticity. A programme of qualitative enquiry was adopted; initially 26 semi-structured interviews were designed to gain insight into the actual experience of a range of respondents of social responsibility ideas, messages and associations as they pertain to UK retailers. In phase two, a critical discourse analysis (CDA) proved an effective means to deconstruct the CSR reporting strategies that link to brand representations over an extensive time period for both UK brands. The findings from the study highlight how symbolic brand heritage references were significant in explaining brand-specific distinctions between CSR messages. High levels of brand-specific trust were linked to recollected memories for some consumers, but this contrasted with distrust by younger respondents. Notable findings from the CDA of Marks and Spencer reports were threefold, demonstrating: a) evidence of evolution in the nature and structure of CSR brand narratives; b) patterns showing strong interlinking of CSR reporting with components of brand heritage, (track record and core values); and c) attempts to create relational and experiential values that conjured forms of brand authenticity directed at stakeholders i.e. customers and employees. Conversely, for the Co-operative CDA offered a) less evidence of evolution in CSR brand narrative; b) limited patterns of interlinking of CSR reporting with elements of brand heritage in the early years, with stronger emergent patterns from the 2000s; and c) a formal reporting structure that offered a progressive evolution in CSR reporting but low evidence of brand authenticity. The study contributes to an increase in theoretical knowledge in the CSR and branding literature, and offers some original perspectives on the evolution of the producer narrative (central to CDA) of CSR messages over a lengthy time period (over 100 years). Methodologically, this study argues for the use of a CDA as an effective modus operandi to deconstruct the framing of CSR reporting strategies for organisations. From a marketer perspective, this study suggests that brand heritage and authenticity should be viewed more holistically– that it is perceived brand authenticity as it relates to CSR that may or may not be acknowledged by customers; and that the interpretation of brand authenticity may impact the degree of engagement with CSR messages.

Berättelser har sedan urminnes tider fängslat och fascinerat människor men idag är berättelsen inte bara ett sätt att förmedla sagor och fabler utan sker även inom företag och organisationer. Kraften i berättelser har under de senaste decennierna börjat användas inom företagsvärlden för att förmedla berättelser om företag och varumärken. Detta sätt att använda berättelser har kommit att kallas storytelling och är en populär strategi inom marknadsföring idag. Storytelling har blivit ett allt viktigare inslag i marknadsföring hos företag inom livsmedelsbranschen då konkurrensen från inhemska och utländska varumärken har ökat i samband med Sveriges inträde i EU. Syftet med uppsatsen är att ur ett företagsperspektiv undersöka hur företag använder storytelling i sin marknadsföring för att stärka sitt varumärke. Studien är också ett försök att upprätthålla ett analysverktyg utifrån de teoretiska begreppen brand identity, brand heritage och core & extended identity för att teoretisera begreppet storytelling och hur det används i marknadsföring av varumärken. Resultatet påvisar att stortyelling används i marknadsföringen för att uttrycka vilka företagen är men också berätta den historia som ligger bakom varumärket samt de värderingar och budskap som varumärket vill förmedla. Studien indikerar att det framtagna analysverktyget kan vara ett möjligt sätt att teoretisera och förklara hur företag kan arbeta med storytelling i sin marknadsföring, då den empiriska undersökningen visar att de valda teoretiska begreppen är tydliga inslag i samtliga företags arbete med storytelling.

Purpose The aim of this master’s thesis is to gain in-depth insight into the emotional connections of consumers to the brand heritage of luxury fashion brands. Another aim of the paper is to investigate how brand love is enriched by the communication of brand heritage dimensions on Instagram. Design/Methodology/Approach This study is adopting an epistemological position of interpretivism and an abductive qualitative methodology. Seven semi-structured, in-depth interviews were conducted with emerging luxury fashion consumers. Further, to gain insight into the meanings attributed to heritage luxury fashion brands, visual participatory methods were implemented. The methods used were a digital tour and a visual collage. The data was analysed with the help of thematic coding. Findings The current study finds that emerging consumers form emotional connections to heritage luxury fashion brands through dimensions of brand love: self-brand integration, passion-driven behaviours, long-term relationships and declarations of affection. This process of forming brand love for heritage luxury fashion brands is named ‘heritage brand love phases’ by this study. Additionally, the study finds that brand heritage is an enricher of brand love for emerging consumers on Instagram, where the consumer is already ‘highly brand-involved'. Managerial Implications It became evident in this study that there is a compatibility conflict between heritage luxury brands and social media. Brand managers ought to weave brand heritage seamlessly into their social media strategy for it to succeed. It is further suggested that managers take into account the ‘heritage brand love phases’ when devising heritage-related social media strategies. Originality/Value This paper explores brand heritage as an enricher of brand love on Instagram. This represents an unexplored area of brand love research. The study expands knowledge of luxury fashion by investigating how one dimension of luxury, brand heritage, impacts emerging consumers’ brand love.

<p>Abstract:</p><p>Purpose: The purpose of this thesis is to learn how brand heritage and retro brands can help HQM strengthen their brand identity.</p><p>Background: Companies with a long history have a strategic choice to make re-garding the use of their heritage in marketing communications. Such companies also enjoy a history of interesting products, for which some may exist the possibility for a retro relaunch. Husqvarna is such a company, which made it interesting to find out how these two strategic tools can or cannot strengthen the studied company‘s brand identity.</p><p>Method: Through an inductive and exploratory case study with interviews of the personnel at Husqvarna Motorcycles, Italy, three theoretical areas emerged to be researched, brand identity, brand heritage and retro brands. The latter two required the help of real life examples for better understanding. The analysis had a deductive approach where the studied theory was applied to the companies, and conclu-sions were drawn from the accumulated knowledge to help streng-then the brand identity of Husqvarna Motorcycles.</p><p>Conclusions: HQM is a brand with heritage in the process of taking a strategic de-cision to use its heritage as a tool to strengthen the brand identity, hence on the way to become a heritage brand in the true meaning of the definition. As the oldest brand on the market, HQM can use its heritage to differentiate itself from the competition, creating uni-queness impossible to copy. A retro product can be a useful vehicle to carry the newly uncovered heritage to surface. With the help of theory and a real life example, a contender within the historical company product portfolio was recognized. Finally, the band identi-ty as stated by HQM was redefined according to the findings.</p>

Cette thèse de doctorat étudie la réponse des consommateurs à la longévité brandée de la marque. En particulier, on explore l'effet de la longévité brandée de la marque sur la fluidité du traitement et la familiarité de la marque dans diverses conditions. Comment réagissent les consommateurs lorsqu'une marque indique sa date de création sur un emballage ou une publicité ? Comment leurs réactions diffèrent­elles en fonction de leur niveau d’implication avec le produit ou de la congruence entre la catégorie de produit et la longévité de la marque? Cette thèse identifie les processus psychologiques qui se produisent lors de l'exposition à la longévité brandée de la marque afin d'expliquer l'effet de la longévité de la marque sur le consommateur. La longévité brandée de la marque est censée susciter une réaction positive chez le consommateur, telle que la confiance dans la marque et la crédibilité de la marque. Cette thèse examine les mécanismes psychologiques qui expliquent ces effets. La fluidité du traitement est considérée comme le cadre théorique pouvant expliquer ces effets. Un modèle démontre que celle­ci est le médiateur entre l’effet de la longévité brandée de la marque et la familiarité de la marque. Ce modèle prend en compte des effets modérateurs tels que l’implication envers le produit et la congruence. / This doctoral dissertation examines consumer response to branded longevity. In particular, it explores the effect of branded longevity on processing fluency and brand familiarity under various conditions. How do consumers react when a brand indicates its founding date on a package or advertisement? How do their reactions differ according to their level of involvement with the product or the congruence between the product category and branded longevity? This thesis identifies the psychological processes that occur during exposure to branded longevity in order to explain the effect of the longevity of the brand on the consumer. Branded longevity is argued to positively influence marketing variables, such as brand confidence and brand credibility. This thesis examines the psychological mechanisms that explain these effects. Processing fluency is considered as the theoretical framework that can explain these effects. Our model shows that processing fluency mediates the effect of branded longevity on brand familiarity. This model takes into account moderating effects such as product involvement and congruence.

Abstract: Purpose: The purpose of this thesis is to learn how brand heritage and retro brands can help HQM strengthen their brand identity. Background: Companies with a long history have a strategic choice to make re-garding the use of their heritage in marketing communications. Such companies also enjoy a history of interesting products, for which some may exist the possibility for a retro relaunch. Husqvarna is such a company, which made it interesting to find out how these two strategic tools can or cannot strengthen the studied company‘s brand identity. Method: Through an inductive and exploratory case study with interviews of the personnel at Husqvarna Motorcycles, Italy, three theoretical areas emerged to be researched, brand identity, brand heritage and retro brands. The latter two required the help of real life examples for better understanding. The analysis had a deductive approach where the studied theory was applied to the companies, and conclu-sions were drawn from the accumulated knowledge to help streng-then the brand identity of Husqvarna Motorcycles. Conclusions: HQM is a brand with heritage in the process of taking a strategic de-cision to use its heritage as a tool to strengthen the brand identity, hence on the way to become a heritage brand in the true meaning of the definition. As the oldest brand on the market, HQM can use its heritage to differentiate itself from the competition, creating uni-queness impossible to copy. A retro product can be a useful vehicle to carry the newly uncovered heritage to surface. With the help of theory and a real life example, a contender within the historical company product portfolio was recognized. Finally, the band identi-ty as stated by HQM was redefined according to the findings.

The aim of this thesis “Deconstruction 3.0” is to show how the third wave of deconstruction in fashion is deconstructing the second [postmodern] French luxury fashion system. The deconstructionists of the post-Soviet collective – Demna and Guram Gvasalia, Gosha Rubchinskiy, and Lotta Volkova – question and deconstruct the established apparatus of the postmodern fashion system and its business model. With their business strategies and with help of demand by post-postmodern consumer culture proposed and predicted by Douglas B. Holt (2002), the post-Soviet collective constructs new business models and thus we are entering a post-postmodern fashion system. I have used a twofold methodology from the disciplines of business administration and humanities. In the literature review, I have aimed to close gaps between different scholars and made a concluding section of the postmodern fashion system and its business model, a synthesis that lies in parallel with Peter Drucker’s (1957) thoughts on postmodern organisational theory. Through the empirics and analysis with help of Jacques Derrida’s (1972) concept of deconstruction, I propose, in the end, a dialectic model between the established postmodern apparatus and the new and diametrically opposed post-postmodern apparatus operated by the post-Soviet collective.

Cette thèse étudie les représentations du passé par les marques et leur effet sur les consommateurs dans le cadre théorique de la distance temporelle. Que se passe-t-il lorsqu’une marque indique sa date de fondation sur un packaging, présente son histoire en page d’accueil du site internet ou fait de son fondateur le personnage central de ses créations publicitaires ? L’objectif de cette thèse est de qualifier ce phénomène, de mieux le comprendre et d’en mesurer les effets cognitifs et affectifs sur les consommateurs. La première partie de la thèse situe ce phénomène par rapport aux recherches sur le rôle du temps en marketing, et plus particulièrement à celles liées au passé comme le marketing rétrospectif, la nostalgie, l’authenticité et la consommation du passé. La seconde partie présente deux études qualitatives et cinq études quantitatives (chapitres 4 à 6) dont les résultats permettent de 1) proposer une nouvelle échelle pour mesurer la perception du patrimoine de marque, 2) démontrer que la mobilisation du patrimoine de marque augmente la distance temporelle entre le consommateur et la marque, 3) montrer que le patrimoine de marque est associé à des bénéfices cognitifs même si la causalité n’est pas vérifiée, et 4) prouver que le patrimoine de marque a un effet sur l’attachement à la marque, uniquement si les consommateurs en sont familiers. Ces résultats contribuent à la recherche sur la gestion de la temporalité de la marque, aux travaux sur le concept de patrimoine de marque, sur les effets cognitifs et affectifs des représentations du passé par les marques, et sur les effets de la distance temporelle dans le passé / This doctoral thesis explores brands’ representations of the past and their effect on consumers in the theoretical framework of temporal distance. What happens when a brand indicates its founding date on a packaging ? Or puts forward its history on its website ? Or uses its founder as the central character in an advertising campaign ? This thesis aims to qualify this phenomenon, to better understand it, and to measure its cognitive and affective effects on consumers. The first part of the dissertation situates this phenomenon with regards to existing research on the role of time in marketing, and most particularly, to the research relating to the past such as retrospective branding, nostalgia, authenticity and the commodification of the past. The second part details two qualitative and five quantitative empirical studies whose results : 1) suggested a new scale to measure the perception of brand heritage, 2) demonstrated that brand heritage increases temporal distance between the brand and its consumers, 3) showed that brand heritage is associated with cognitive benefits although causality is not assessed, and 4) proved the effect of brand heritage on brand attachment for familiar brands. Those results contribute to the research on temporality in brand management, on the concept of brand heritage and its measurement, on the cognitive and affective consequences of brands’ representations of the past, and on the temporal distance on the past