The majority of offshore wind farms utilize monopile substructures. As these wind farms are typically located in water depths less than 30 meters, the effect of breaking waves on these structures is of great concern to design engineers. This research investigation examines many of the practical considerations and alternative ways of estimating breaking wave forces. A survey of existing European wind farms is used to establish a realistic range of basic design parameters. Based upon this information a parametric study was pursued and a series of realistic design scenarios were evaluated. Comparisons include the sensitivity to the wave force model as well as to analytical and numerical wave theories used to evaluate the wave kinematics. In addition, the effect of different kinematics stretching techniques for linear waves is addressed. Establishing whether the bathymetry will induce spilling or plunging wave breaking is critical. Spilling wave breaking can be addressed using existing wave and wave force theories; however for plunging wave breaking an additional impact force must be introduced. Dimensionless design curves are used to display pertinent trends across the full range of design cases considered. This research study provides insight into the evaluation of the maximum breaking wave forces and overturning moment for both spilling and plunging breaking waves as a function of bottom slope.

While sea spray aerosols (SSAs) generation by oceanic breaking waves continues to be an active research area, lake spray aerosols (LSAs) production by freshwater breaking waves is an emerging research field. Recent studies have linked LSAs to regional cloud processes and the aerosolization of freshwater pathogens and pollutants. Yet, differences in spray aerosol ejection between freshwater and saltwater and their impact on the water-to-air dispersal of microorganisms and pollutants are poorly understood. The goals of this dissertation work were to understand mechanistic differences between spray aerosol generation in freshwater and saltwater, develop a representation of LSA emissions in atmospheric models and evaluate their impact on regional aerosol loading, and compare the aerosolization of bacteria and microplastics by SSAs and LSAs. Experiments in a breaking-waves analogue tank revealed that the subsurface bubble plume in saltwater is characterized by more submillimeter bubbles than that in freshwater, and hence, saltwater surface foams were more persistent and were comprised of more submillimeter surface bubbles. Consequently, the average number concentration of generated SSAs was eight times higher than that of LSAs. Using these measurements, the developed LSA emission parametrization revealed that freshwater emissions were, at least, an order of magnitude lower than saltwater emissions for the same wave-breaking conditions. When implementing this emission parameterization to simulate LSA emissions from the Laurentian Great Lakes, LSAs did not contribute significantly to regional aerosol loading (< 2%), yet their impact on coarse-mode aerosols was more significant with up to a 19-fold increase in some areas. Furthermore, modeled LSAs reached up to 1000 km inland and were incorporated in the lakes' cloud layer. Despite the generation of more spray aerosols in saltier waters, cumulative salt additions in the freshwater–saltwater continuum (0-35 g/kg) led to a nonmonotonic increase in freshwater bacterial aerosolization abundance, which exhibited a peak at lower oligohaline conditions (0.5-1 g/kg). However, the aerosolization of microplastics by SSAs was one order of magnitude higher than that by LSAs. Overall, this dissertation work showed that LSA emissions are intrinsically different from SSA emissions, which influences their role in transferring microorganisms and pollutants at the air-water interface. / Doctor of Philosophy / When waves break, they entrain large volumes of air in the form of subsurface bubbles. These bubbles rise to the surface and pop ejecting small droplets into the air, also known as spray aerosols. The droplets ejected from saltwater breaking waves are referred to as sea spray aerosols (SSAs) and are extensively studied due to their important role in Earth's atmosphere. However, the ejection of lake spray aerosols (LSAs) from freshwater breaking waves is far less understood. With recent studies linking freshwater breaking waves to regional cloud processes and the transfer of aquatic pathogens to the air, a better understanding of LSAs formation and how it compares to SSAs production was needed. The goals of this dissertation work were to understand the differences between spray aerosol generation in freshwater and saltwater, develop a representation of LSA emissions in atmospheric models and assess their contribution to atmospheric aerosols, and contrast the role of LSAs and SSAs in transferring bacteria and microplastics to the air. Experiments in a spray aerosol generation tank revealed that saltwater breaking waves generate more submillimeter bubbles at the subsurface level than freshwater breaking waves and that the generated surface foam is more persistent and is comprised of smaller bubbles in saltwater. Consequently, SSA generation in the experimental tank was eight times higher than LSA generation. When implementing these results in an atmospheric model to simulate LSA emission from the surface of the Laurentian Great Lakes, it was found that the regional aerosol population was not significantly affected. However, LSA particles were transported inland up to 1000 km and reached cloud level which hints at possible implications on public health and regional climate. Despite a higher generation of aerosols by breaking waves in saltier waters, the abundance of freshwater bacteria that was dispersed to the air by spray aerosols did not increase monotonically in response to a gradual increase in freshwater salinity. Yet, microplastics transfer to the air by SSAs was an order of magnitude higher than that by LSAs. The results of this dissertation work highlight the important differences between the generation of spray aerosols by breaking waves in freshwater and saltwater and their corresponding roles in the water-to-air dispersal of microorganisms and pollutants.

Depuis plusieurs décennies, la communauté informatique graphique s’intéresse à la simulation physique du mouvement et du rendu des fluides. Ils nécessitent d’approcher numériquement des systèmes complexes d’équations aux dérivées partielles, coûteux en temps de calcul. Ces deux domaines trouvent entre autres des applications dans le domaine vidéoludique, qui requiert des performances pouvant offrir des résultats en temps interactif, et dans la simulation d’écoulements réalistes et complexes pour les effets spéciaux, nécessitant des temps de calcul et d’espace mémoire beaucoup plus considérables. Les modèles de la dynamique des fluides permettent de simuler des écoulements complexes, tout en offrant à l’artiste la possibilité d’interagir avec la simulation. Toutefois, contrôler la dynamique et l’apparence des vagues reste difficile. Cette thèse porte d’une part sur le contrôle du mouvement des vagues océaniques dans un contexte d’animation basée sur les équations de Navier-Stokes, et sur leur visualisation réaliste. Nos deux contributions principales sont : (i) un modèle de forces externes pour contrôler le mouvement des vagues, avec leur hauteur, leur point de déferlement et leur vitesse. Une extension du modèle pour représenter l’interaction entre plusieurs vagues et des vagues tournantes est également proposée. (ii) une méthodologie pour visualiser les vagues, à l’aide d’une méthode de rendu réaliste, en s’appuyant sur des données optiques des constituants océaniques pour contrôler l’apparence du fluide considéré comme milieu participant. La simulation et le contrôle de la dynamique des vagues sont mis en oeuvre dans un simulateur basé sur la méthode SPH (Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics). Afin d’obtenir des performances interactives, nous avons développé un moteur de simulation SPH tirant parti des technologies GPGPU. Pour la visualisation physico-réaliste, nous utilisons un moteur de rendu existant permettant de représenter des milieux participants. Utilisés conjointement, les deux contributions permettent de simuler et contrôler la dynamique d’un front de mer ainsi que son apparence, sur la base de ses paramètres physiques. / Physics based animation and photorealistic rendering of fluids are two research field that has been widely addressed by the computer graphics research community. Both have applications in the video-entertainment industry and used in simulations of natural disasters, which require high computing performance in order to provide interactive time results. This thesis first focuses on simulating breaking wave on modern computer architecturesm and then to render them in the case of oceanic environments. The first part of this thesis deals with physics-based animation of breaking waves, and describes a simple model to generate and control such waves. Current methods only enable to simulate the effects but not the causes of water waves. The implementation of our method takes advantage of GPGPU technologies because of its massively parallel nature, in order to achieve interactive performances. Besides, the method was designed to provide the graphist user-control of the physical phenomena, which enables to control in real time all the physical parameters of the generated waves, in order to achieve the desired result. The second part of this thesis deals with the optical properties of water in oceanic environments and describes a model that enables to realistically render an oceanic scene. Its second goal is to provide user-control of the oceanic constituants amount to tune the appearance of the oceanic participating media.

Cette thèse étudie numériquement l'impact d'une onde déferlante à l'échelle de la vague. Dans un premier temps, le phénomène de percussion présent sur de faibles durées est décrit dans deux cas de lâcher de barrage. Les résultats montrent que la réduction du pas d'espace induit des changements locaux dans le profil d'interface avant l'impact. Ces changements influencent fortement les pics de pression, rendant ainsi leur estimation impossible. L'influence de lagéométrie locale de l'interface est théoriquement étudiée sur le cas d'un jet triangulaire. En développant deux lois semi-empiriques, nous montrons que pour des interfaces fortement inclinées, les pics de pression sont très sensibles aux variations d'angles incidents. L'impact d'une onde déferlante est traité en initialisant le déferlement par la mise en place d'un couplage faible de modèles BEM/VOF afin d'approcher la forme du jet avec une précision optimale. Les efforts critiques sont calculés pour des obstacles situés à différentes altitudes. L'intensité des pics est en accord avec la théorie pour des angles inférieurs à 70°. Deux types d'impacts sont étudiés en appliquant les résultats du jet triangulaire au cas de jets courbes. / Numerical simulations are performed to describe different cases of breaking wave impacts at the wave scale. The main purpose is to assess short duration pressure peak involved in impulsive loads. The academical case of a triangular wedge hitting a vertical wall allows to investigate the origin of pressure peak and connect their magnitudes to the local interface inclination. Theoretical results enable us to derive two semi-empirical laws which show that pressure peaks are very sensitive to angle variations for strong interface inclination, making thus theire assessment difficult. This result is illustrated on a breaking dam case for which mesh size has shown to have a great influence on the incident jet shape, revealing that pressure peak assessment requires to know accurately interface profile. The case of a breaking wave is treated by setting up a coupling approach (VOF / BEM). This method allows to accurately approximate the interface profile at the beginning of the breaking stage. Pressure peaks are in good agreement with the theoretical results for angles lower than 70°. Two differents types of impacts are then treated by applying results from triangular case to breaking wave jet and the influence of interface curvature on pressure peak evolution is studied.

Internal waves occur in the interface between two layers of fluids with density stratification. In order to better understand the characteristics of continuous internal waves, a series of experiments were conducted in a laboratory tank. The upper and lower layers are fresh water of 15 cm thick and salt water of 30 cm thick, respectively. The periods of internal waves are 2.5, 5.5 and 6.6 sec. A micro-ADV is used to measure velocity profiles. Wave profiles at the density interface and the free surface are monitored respectively by an ultrasonic and capacitance wave gauges. Our results indicate that particle velocities (u and w) above and below the density interface have opposite directions. The speed is peaked near the density interface and it becomes weaker further away from the interface. Empirical Mode Decomposition is used to remove noise from the observed particle velocities, and the period is consistent with those derived from the interface elevations. The observed particle velocities also compare favorably with the theoretical results. When internal waves propagate without the interference of a sloping bottom, the turbulence induced is rather insignificant. The turbulence is more significant only near the density interface. With the existence of a sloping bottom, the internal waves gradually shoal and deform, the crest becomes sharp and steep, finally the waves become unstable, break and overturn. In this study the effect of bottom slope and the steepness of internal waves on the reflectivity of incoming waves are investigated. The reflectivity is smaller with gentler slope, and it increases and reaches a constant value with steeper slopes. The observed energy dissipation rate£`is higher near the slope. Three methods were used to estimate the energy dissipation rate and shear stress; namely, the inertial dissipation, the TKE and auto-correlation method. The£` estimated from the auto-correlation method is larger than that from the other two methods, but their trend is similar. The energy dissipation rate is found to increase with a gentler sloping bottom.

Laboratory experiments were performed to study and improve longshore sediment transport rate predictions. Measured total longshore transport in the laboratory was approximately three times greater for plunging breakers than spilling breakers. Three distinct zones of longshore transport were observed across the surf zone: the incipient breaker zone, inner surf zone, and swash zone. Transport at incipient breaking was influenced by breaker type; inner surf zone transport was dominated by wave height, independent of wave period; and swash zone transport was dependent on wave period. Selected predictive formulas to compute total load and distributed load transport were compared to laboratory and field data. Equations by Kamphuis (1991) and Madsen et al. (2003) gave consistent total sediment transport estimates for both laboratory and field data. Additionally, the CERC formula predicted measurements well if calibrated and applied to similar breaker types. Each of the distributed load models had shortcomings. The energetics model of Bodge and Dean (1987) was sensitive to fluctuations in energy dissipation and often predicted transport peaks that were not present in the data. The Watanabe (1992) equation, based on time-averaged bottom stress, predicted no transport at most laboratory locations. The Van Rijn (1993) model was comprehensive and required hydrodynamic, bedform, and sediment data. The model estimated the laboratory cross-shore distribution well, but greatly overestimated field transport. Seven models were developed in this study based on the principle that transported sediment is mobilized by the total shear stress acting on the bottom and transported by the current at that location. Shear stress, including the turbulent component, was calculated from the wave orbital velocity. Models 1 through 3 gave good estimates of the transport distribution, but underpredicted the transport peak near the plunging wave breakpoint. A suspension term was included in Models 4 through 7, which improved estimates near breaking for plunging breakers. Models 4, 5 and 7 also compared well to the field measurements. It was concluded that breaker type is an important variable in determining the amount of transport that occurs at a location. Lastly, inclusion of the turbulent component of the orbital velocity is vital in predictive sediment transport equations.

The exchange of mass (gases, water & salts) between the oceans and the atmosphere is vital to the maintenance of life on earth. At high wind velocities most of this exchange is attributable to breaking wave entrained air bubbles. A vertical supported planar plunging jet experiment was used to model the entrainment process. The bubbles were detected with a dual tip conductivity probe and a video camera. At plunging jet velocities below 1.0m/s there is no bubble entrainment. This inception velocity appears to have a Froude and Weber number scaling for large rough turbulent jets. At jet velocities up to 5m/s air appeared to be entrained via intermittent air cavities at the jet - plunge pool intersection. The entrained air packets subsequently break in the two phase free shear layer under the entrainment point. At higher jet velocities there may be partial penetration of the aerated jet surface via pulsating induction cavities plus air entrainment via jet self aeration before impact. Plunging jet air flow data displays the different types of entrainment mechanisms. Mono-phase diffusion models can be successfully adapted to describe the shear layer developing zone. The diffusion of the air bubbles is approximately a Gaussian self similar process. The mean bubble velocity profiles can be modelled using the Goertler Error function or Hyperbolic Tangent models. The bubble spectra is approximately Lognormal with a geometric mean diameter of 1.0-2.0mm for a range of jet velocities. A bubble Weber number is found to model the maximum bubble size of approximately 10mm diameter. An original adaptation of the potential flow solution for the vortex sheet is shown to be a simple and reasonably accurate finite amplitude model for water surface gravity waves, especially in deep water. This model has some interesting features, such as both vertical and horizontal asymmetry and standing wave water profile modelling. A simple and possibly insightful model of wave growth due to the wind is introduced, using a constant sea surface Reynolds number U*.sqrt(L.F)/Gamma , where U* = wind friction velocity, L = wavelength, F = fetch, and Gamma = wave field vortex circulation per wavelength. The results may have application in the modelling of air - sea gas exchanges, predicting breaking wave forces on structures and the use of the planar plunging jet as an aeration device in industry.

There is a good deal of uncertainty and sensitivity in the results for wave impact. In a practical situation, many parameters such as the wave climate will not be known with any accuracy especially the frequency and severity of wave breaking. Even if the wave spectrum is known, this is usually recorded offshore, requiring same sort of (linear) transfer function to estimate the wave climate at the seawall. What is more, the higher spectral moments will generally be unknown. Wave breaking, according to linear wave theory, is known to depend on the wave spectrum, see Srokosz (1986) and Greenhow (1989). Not only is the wave climate unknown, but the aeration of the water will also be subject to uncertainty. This affects rather dramatically the speed of sound in the water/bubble mixture and hence the value of the acoustic pressure that acts as a maximum cutoff for pressure calculated by any incompressible model. The results are also highly sensitive to the angle of alignment of the wave front and seawall. Here we consider the worst case scenario of perfect alignment. Given the above, it seems sensible to exploit the simple pressure impulse model used in this thesis. Thus Cooker (1990) proposed using the pressure impulse P(x, y) that is the time integral of the pressure over the duration of the impact. This results in a simplified, but much more stable, model of wave impact on the coastal structures, and forms the basis of this thesis, as follows: Chapter 1 is an overview about this topic, a brief summary of the work which will follow and a summary of the contribution of this thesis. Chapter 2 gives a literature review of wave impact, theoretically and experimentally. The topics covered include total impulse, moment impulse and overtopping. A summary of the present state of the theory and Cooker’s model is also presented in Chapter 2. In Chapter 3 and Chapter 4, we extend the work of Greenhow (2006). He studied the berm and ditch problems, see Chapter 3, and the missing block problem in Chapter 4, and solved the problems by using a basis function method. I solve these problems in nondimensionlised variables by using a hybrid collocation method in Chapter 3 and by using the same method as Greenhow (2006) in Chapter 4. The works are extended by calculating the total impulse and moment impulse, and the maximum pressure arising from the wave impact for each problem. These quantities will be very helpful from a practical point of view for engineers and designers of seawalls. The mathematical equations governing the fluid motion and its boundary conditions are presented. The deck problem together with the mathematical formulation and boundary conditions for the problem is presented in Chapters 5 and 6 by using a hybrid collocation method. For this case, the basis function method fails due to hyperbolic terms in these formulations growing exponentially. The formulations also include a secular term, not present in Cooker’s formulation. For Chapter 5, the wave hits the wall in a horizontal direction and for Chapter 6, the wave hits beneath the deck in a vertical direction. These problems are important for offshore structures where providing adequate freeboard for decks contributes very significantly to the cost of the structure. Chapter 7 looks at what happens when we have a vertical baffle. The mathematical formulation and the boundary conditions for four cases of baffles which have different positions are presented in this chapter. We use a basis function method to solve the mathematical formulation, and total impulse and moment impulse are investigated for each problem. These problems are not, perhaps, very relevant to coastal structures. However, they are pertinent to wave impacts in sloshing tanks where baffles are used to detune the natural tank frequencies away from environmental driving frequencies (e.g ship roll due to wave action) and to damp the oscillations by shedding vortices. They also provide useful information for the design of oscillating water column wave energy devices. Finally, conclusions from the research and recommendations for future work are presented in Chapter 8.

Coastal flooding from wave overtopping causes considerable damage. Presently, to model wave overtopping one can either make use of physical model tests or empirical tools such as those described in the EurOtop manual. Both these methods have limitations; therefore, a quick and reliable numerical model for wave overtopping would be a very useful tool for a coastal engineer.This research aims to test and develop a numerical model (in one horizontal dimension) for nearshore waves, runup and overtopping. The Shallow Water And Boussinesq (SWAB) model solves the Boussinesq-type equations of Madsen and Sorensen (1992) for non breaking waves and the nonlinear shallow water equations for breaking waves. Through testing against a range of physical model data using regular and random waves, the SWAB model's transfer from non-breaking to breaking waves was optimised. It was found that a wave height to water depth ratio worked consistently well as a breaking criterion.A set of physical model tests were carried out, based on previous field testing of wave overtopping that had previously taken place at Anchorsholme, Blackpool. The SWAB model was used to simulate some of these physical model tests, giving good results for mean overtopping rates. SWAB models the force imposed by steep walls and recurve walls on the incident flow; this force was found to have a significant effect on overtopping rates. A comparison was made between mean overtopping rates from the SWAB model, the physical model tests, empirically-based software (PC-Overtopping) and the field data. The physical model and SWAB results compared well with the field data, though the empirical software gave large overestimates.The SWAB model was applied to the analysis of overtopping at Walcott, Norfolk. It was found that beach levels affected overtopping rates, but not as much as different randomly phased wave trains. A simulation of a recent storm event was performed, with overtopping rates being slightly lower than those reported by local residents. A joint probability analysis showed that the predicted frequency of such an event was in line with these reports.An alternative modelling technique was also tested, where a spectral energy model was coupled with a nonlinear shallow water solver. Results for wave runup parameters were very accurate, when the coupling location is at the seaward edge of the surf zone. Extension of this modelling technique into two horizontal dimensions would be more straightforward than with the SWAB model.

The design of rubble mound breakwaters usually focuses on the main armor layer. A review of the existing literature reveals that different equations are used to design rock armors in non-breaking wave conditions. However, most rubble mound breakwaters are constructed in the depth-induced breaking zone where they are attacked by waves breaking in the foreshore; in these conditions, existing design equations are not valid. Therefore, in this PhD thesis, the hydraulic stability of double-layer rock armors is analyzed through a series of small-scale tests conducted with a bottom slope m=1/50. Based on test results, a new potential relationship is given to design rock armors in depth-limited breaking wave conditions with armor slope cot¿=1.5, stability numbers within the range 0.98¿Hm0/(¿Dn50)¿2.5, and relative water depth at the toe 3.75¿hs/(¿Dn50)¿7.50. When concrete units are used for the armor layer, mound breakwaters are usually protected by a toe berm. This toe berm is placed on the seafloor or underlayer, providing support for the concrete armor units which are placed later on the structure slope. Toe berm design is commonly related to the armor design; in non-breaking wave conditions, the mass of toe berm rocks is one order of magnitude lower than the units of the layer. In breaking wave conditions, however, the highest waves start breaking on the bottom and impact directly on the toe berm. This is the common case of rocky sea bottoms with m=1/10 or higher slopes and thus, a correct design of the toe berm is crucial to guarantee the armor stability. The present PhD thesis examines the hydraulic stability of rock toe berms placed on a m=1/10 bottom slope and in very shallow waters (0.5<hs/Dn50<5.01). Small-scale tests were conducted with double-layer cube armored breakwaters and rock toe berms with different widths (Bt) and thicknesses (tt). Firstly, a new equation is proposed to design emerged and submerged standard rock toe berms (Bt=3Dn50 and tt=2 Dn50) using three parameters: (1) deep water wave height, Hs0, (2) deep water wave length, L0p, and (3) water depth at the toe, hs. Secondly, the influence of toe berm width (Bt) on toe berm stability is analyzed introducing two new concepts to characterize wide toe berms (Bt>3Dn50): (1) the nominal toe berm or the most shoreward toe berm area which effectively supports the armor layer, and (2) the sacrificial toe berm or the most seaward toe berm area which serves to protect the nominal toe berm. Considering the nominal toe berm damage, a new method is developed to reduce the rock toe berm size (Dn50) by increasing the toe berm width (Bt) if the required rock size is not available at the quarries. Finally, cube armor damage is examined, and the influence of the placement technique on armor stability is also characterized from physical tests conducted with cubes randomly- and uniformly- placed on the armor in two layers. / El manto principal de los diques en talud suele estar formado por escollera natural o elementos prefabricados de hormigón; su función es resistir la acción del oleaje. Una revisión del estado del arte pone de manifiesto que son numerosas las fórmulas existentes para el diseño de mantos derivadas de ensayos físicos a escala reducida con oleaje sin rotura por fondo. Sin embargo, la mayoría de diques en talud se construyen en la zona de rompientes con oleaje limitado por fondo, donde las ecuaciones de diseño habituales no son del todo válidas. En esta tesis doctoral se analiza la estabilidad hidráulica de mantos bicapa de escollera, a partir de ensayos a escala reducida con pendiente de fondo m=1/50. En base a los resultados obtenidos de los ensayos físicos, se propone una nueva relación potencial para el diseño de mantos de escollera en condiciones de oleaje limitado por fondo, válida para taludes con cot¿=1.5, números de estabilidad 0.98¿Hm0/(¿Dn50)¿2.5, y profundidades relativas a pie de dique de 3.75¿hs/(¿Dn50)¿7.50. Cuando el manto principal está formado por elementos de hormigón, es habitual construir una berma de pie que proporciona apoyo a los elementos del manto y, en su caso, colabora en la protección de la zona inferior del dique contra la socavación. Dicha berma suele construirse con escollera natural y su peso está condicionado al de los elementos del manto en el caso de no haber rotura por fondo. El peso de los elementos de la berma de pie suele ser un orden de magnitud inferior al peso de las unidades del manto; sin embargo, si la pendiente de fondo es fuerte (p.e. m=1/10) y las aguas someras esta regla no se cumple ya que algunas olas rompen sobre el fondo impactando directamente sobre la berma de pie. En estos casos, el peso de la escollera de la berma puede sobrepasar el de las unidades del manto y su correcto diseño es crucial para garantizar la estabilidad del dique. Además de estudiar la estabilidad del manto principal de diques de escollera, la presente tesis doctoral analiza también la estabilidad hidráulica de bermas de pie de escollera ubicadas en fondos con pendiente m=1/10 y aguas someras (0.5<hs/Dn50<5.01), en base a ensayos físicos a escala reducida realizados con mantos bicapa de cubos y bermas de escollera con diferentes dimensiones. En primer lugar, se propone una nueva ecuación para el diseño de bermas escollera estándar (Bt=3Dn50 y tt=2 Dn50), tanto emergidas como sumergidas, a partir de tres parámetros: (1) altura de ola en aguas profundas, Hs0, (2) longitud de onda en aguas profundas, L0p, (3) profundidad a pie de dique, hs. Posteriormente, se analiza la influencia del ancho de la berma (Bt) en su estabilidad hidráulica, introduciendo dos nuevos conceptos para caracterizar bermas de pie anchas (Bt>3Dn50): (1) berma nominal o zona de la berma de pie sobre la que realmente apoya el manto principal, y (2) berma de sacrificio o zona de la berma de pie que protege a la berma nominal. A partir del daño de la berma de pie nominal, se propone un nuevo método para reducir el tamaño de piedra (Dn50) incrementando el ancho de la berma (Bt) cuando no se disponga del tamaño requerido en cantera. Finalmente, se examina el daño del manto de cubos y se analiza la influencia del método de colocación sobre el mismo, a partir de ensayos realizados con mantos bicapa de cubos con colocación aleatoria y uniforme. / El mantell principal dels dics en talús sol estar format per roca o elements prefabricats de formigó, la seva funció és resistir l'acció de l'onatge. Una revisió de l'estat de l'art manifesta que són nombroses les equacions de disseny existents per a condicions d'onatge no trencat. No obstant això, la majoria de dics en talús es construeixen a la zona de rompents amb onatge limitat per fons, on les equacions de disseny existents no són del tot vàlides. En aquesta tesi doctoral s'analitza l'estabilitat hidràulica de mantells bicapa de roca, a partir d'assajos a escala reduïda realitzats amb pendent de fons m = 1/50. En base als resultats obtinguts dels assajos, es proposa una relació potencial per al disseny de mantells de roca en condicions d'onatge limitat per fons vàlida per a talussos amb cot¿ = 1.5, nombres d'estabilitat 0.98¿Hm0/(¿Dn50) ¿2.5, i profunditats relatives a peu de dic de 3.75¿hs/(¿Dn50)¿7.50. Quan mantell principal està format per elements de formigó , és habitual construir una berma de peu que proporciona suport als elements del mantell i, si escau, col¿labora en la protecció de la zona inferior del dic contra la soscavació. Aquesta berma sol construir amb roca i el seu pes està condicionat al dels elements del mantell en el cas de no haver trencament per fons. El pes dels elements de la berma de peu sol ser un ordre de magnitud inferior al pes de les unitats del mantell; però, si el pendent de fons és fort ( p.e. m = 1 /10) i les aigües someres aquesta regla no es compleix ja que algunes onades trenquen sobre el fons impactant directament sobre la berma de peu. En aquests casos, el pes de la roca de la berma pot sobrepassar el de les unitats del mantell, i el seu correcte disseny és crucial per garantir l'estabilitat del dic. A més d'estudiar l'estabilitat del mantell principal de dics de roca, la present tesi doctoral analitza també l'estabilitat hidràulica de bermes de roca ubicades en fons amb pendents m = 1/10 i aigües someres (0.5<hs/Dn50<5.01), utilitzant assajos a escala reduïda realitzats amb mantells de doble capa de cubs i bermes de roca amb diferents dimensions. En primer lloc, es proposa una nova equació per al disseny de bermes de roca estàndard (Bt = 3 Dn50 i tt = 2 Dn50), tant emergides com submergides, a partir de tres paràmetres: (1) alçada d'ona significant en aigües profundes, Hs0, (2) longitud d'ona en aigües profundes, L0p, i (3) profunditat a peu de dic, hs. Posteriorment, s'analitza la influència de l'amplada de la berma (Bt) en la seua estabilitat hidràulica, introduint dos nous conceptes per caracteritzar bermes de peu amples (Bt > 3 Dn50): (1) berma nominal o zona de la berma de peu sobre la qual recolza el mantell principal, i (2) berma de sacrifici o zona de la berma de peu que protegeix la berma nominal. A partir del dany de la berma de peu nominal, es proposa un nou mètode per reduir el tamany de roca (Dn50) incrementant l'amplada de la berma (Bt) quan no es disposi de la mida requerit en pedrera. Finalment, s'examina el dany del mantell de cubs i s'analitza la influència del mètode de col¿locació sobre el mateix , a partir d'assajos realitzats amb mantells bicapa de cubs amb col¿locació aleatòria i uniforme. / Herrera Gamboa, MP. (2017). Mound Breakwater Design in Depth-Limited Breaking Wave Conditions [Tesis doctoral no publicada]. Universitat Politècnica de València. https://doi.org/10.4995/Thesis/10251/82553 / TESIS