This thesis presents a foundation for developing a business case for companies interested in the reconstructive and cosmetic procedure markets. The focus is on reviewing adipose tissue engineering research and proposing technology opportunities that could be applied to challenging soft tissue reconstruction cases and adjacently applied to cosmetic applications. To establish the foundation for this type of program, this thesis includes an evaluation of the reconstructive and cosmetic procedure markets, current practices in these markets and their constraints, as well as a literature review of research in adipose tissue engineering and its potential clinical applications. Additionally it captures the competitive landscape of major players in the reconstructive market as well as up-and-coming players in the adipose tissue engineering field. Technology development opportunities with associated customer and business value are discussed with a recommendation for the development of a detailed business case to evaluate specific product development opportunities in these markets. / text

In this thesis I investigate what ‘authenticity’ means in a contemporary popular context and how it is used in the staging of bodies. Furthermore, I analyse works of dance and fashion from the past fifteen years with a focus on their strategies of challenging the notion of ‘bodily authenticity’.   When ‘an authentic body’ is sought by participants or demanded by judges and ‘experts’ on popular makeover and casting TV shows such as The Swan (Fox 2004) or Germany’s Next Topmodel (Pro 7 2006-present) this refers to the physical visualisation of what is perceived/presented as the participants ‘inner self’. I scrutinise the staging techniques and the codes of appearance that bodies have to comply with in order to be deemed ‘authentic’ on the shows. To define them and place them in the history of the idea of ‘bodily authenticity’, I complement my study with an outline of how ‘authenticity’ was understood in the Enlightenment and what techniques were used to stage the body when the concept gained currency, for instance in the writings of Rousseau. My analysis makes clear that 'bodily authenticity' on the two TV shows is achieved by strictly following gender-normative codes of beauty and by a depiction of 'working hard'. But various techniques also mask the hard work, for example by showing a participant ‘having fun’ performing it.   Contemporary works of dance and fashion challenge the problematic implications in the notion of ‘bodily authenticity’. I analyse three strategies of undermining the ‘authentic’ ideal in a total of seven pieces. These strategies are hyperbole which exaggerates the beauty code implicit in ‘authentic appearance’; multiplicity which undermines ‘authenticity’s’ essentialism and estrangement which denies the notion of individual authorship. In conclusion, I place the staging strategies used in my examples in a wider cultural context and highlight potential problems inherent in their critiques. / <p>Thesis is done in ’co-tutelle’ with Freie Universität Berlin. </p>

The swedish law against female genital mutilation (FGM) prohibits procedures that removes parts of the female genitalia and thereby makes permanent changes in the body. The problem with the wording of the law is that it may also apply to the western phenomenon cosmetic genital surgery. This paper therefore examines if cosmetic genital surgery should be covered by the swedish law against FGM, by making a critical comparing analysis. The paper begins with comparing FGM with cosmetic genital surgery to prove that there are more similarities than differences between the procedures. By using the theoretical perspectives universalism and postcolonialism, the paper then examines why, particularly in the West, there is a different approach to FGM than to cosmetic genital surgery, regardless of the similarities of the procedures. Further the paper also examines consent and why consent to FGM is seen as illegitimate while consent to cosmetic genital surgery is seen as legitimate. On basis of the critical comparing analysis the paper then argues: that the procedures cosmetic genital surgery and FGM are very much alike; that cosmetic genital surgery is accepted over FGM because it is more familiar in the West and; that consent should be as illegitimate when given to cosmetic genital surgery as when given to FGM. Thus the conclusion of the paper is that cosmetic genital surgery should be covered by the swedish law against FGM.

男性的零售市場一直比女性消費市場小許多，除了中國大陸的男士高級腕表及高級男士西服，以送禮為導向，所以得到高成長，但在2013年禁奢令之後，這兩種市場也急遽下滑。 但是男性化妝品去在全球市場大量成長，但是因為基期太小，許多市場仍集中在開架式較為低價的範圍，所以對於專櫃高形象的市場一直是十分匱乏，因此這一塊處女市場，存在成長的空間，但是如何建立，或是市場品牌定位，便是值得探討研究的商機。 而在網路爆炸的時代，各品牌所面臨行銷困境是如何利用有限資源進行有效益的行銷方式，而一般的行銷模式及4P (product、price、place、promotion) 架構顯然已經面臨瓶頸，4C理論架構是針對消費者外顯及內隱4大成本與消費者進行成本交換，由交易成本的觀點切入市場行銷面市場=人口+購買力+購買慾望，購買欲望是指消費者購買商品或服務的動機、願望和要求，是由消費者心理需求和生理需求引發的。產生購買欲望是消費者將潛在購買力轉化為現實購買力的必要條件。而這也呼應4C的3個內隱成本針對動機、願望和要求的消費者交易。 因此對一個新市場-----男性化妝品市場，運用新的4C行銷理論架構，而非傳統由行銷環境分析“STP行銷策略”行銷工具，所衍伸的方式，兩者有相當值得探究的角度。 透過4C 觀念在建立男性品牌時，可以清楚了解在不同區塊如何減低消費者購買成本，也幫助投入資本發揮最大效用，並且更容易檢視其成效，建立有效益的消費者溝通行銷，由第一印象的產品定位外顯效益成本到最深入忠實客戶專屬陷入，能夠全方位的清楚策略及檢視，這也是本論文所要闡述的意義。 / Men’s retail market is much smaller than woman retail market. Expect in China market, due to present behavior for business concern. Luxury watch and high level suits got explosive growth. However after the announcement sumptuary laws in 2013, those two market had drop rapidly. But there is great growth in men’s cosmetic global market. The base is small, so platform of most markets are still focus on mass market. It is lack of department store counter market for men’s product. It is a virgin market which exist space for growth. How to establish and brand position is a great business opportunity to discovery. We are in an era of internet information explosion. How to utilize limited resources to execute an effective marketing promotion are dilemmas for all brands. General marketing pattern and 4P structure obviously are facing bottleneck. Through cost of exchange point of view to cut in marketing by theory of 4C structure which is exchange the cost with consumer base on the 4 cost of explicit and implicit (overt cost per utility、buyer cost of information searching、 buyer cost of moral hazard、 buyer cost of holdup). Market= Population+ Purchasing power+ Purchasing desire. Purchasing desire is motivation, wishes, demands when consumer purchases product or service. It is stir by consumer mental and physical needs. To create purchasing desire is that consumer can transform potential purchase power become sufficient condition. It is to respond to 3 implicit cost of 4C theory which related to consumers trade by motivation, wishes, demand. Though to a new market----- men’s cosmetic market, we can use a new 4C theory structure, not only through traditional STP marketing strategy. There should be a good angle to probe for both men’s market and new 4C theories. Using 4C theory to establish men’s brand, it can create clear picture how to reduce consumer purchase cost in difference area. It also brings the investment into full play, as well as easy to inspect the result. An effective marketing communication to customers also can be well built. From the first impression of product position base on overt cost per utility to the deepest buyer cost of holdup of loyal customers it all can get clear strategy and viewing in full angles. It is a spirit of this thesis.

This thesis is a phenomenological study that has been carried out via two semi-structured interviews with an -  in conventional ways of categorising - 22 years old white, heterosexual, and middleclass Swedish woman, referred to as “Andrea”. The thesis aims to explore the becomings of Andrea in connection with cosmetic body modifications and her experiences in relation to this of fitting and misfitting, which are related to the dis/ability system. The aim of this thesis has also been to situate her as an embodied female subject in an intersectional context, in addition to her own experiences, as multiple social categorizations intra-act in the creation of dis/ability. The thesis takes its point of departure in Rosi Braidotti’s theorization of nomadic subjectivity and employs her notion of subjectivity as a negotiation between desire and power, with the goal of analysing the affirmative potential of cosmetic body modifications, as well as being critical towards them and their effects. Rosemarie Garland-Thomson’s concepts of fitting/misfitting are used in order to analyse the intra-actions between body and environment as well as how cosmetic body modifications affect the fit and/or misfit of Andrea.  Sara Ahmed’s notion of orientation has been employed in relation to this, with the aim of showing how beauty, whiteness, femininity, and economic wealth are produced and sustained. In the thesis it is analysed how Andrea, in complex ways desires molarity at the same time as she actively resists “fixed” positionings of her. Andrea contributes to a deconstruction of the fixity of molar identity as her resistance disrupts the flow of expected behaviors - something which creates moments of imperceptibility. The thesis furthermore argues that Andrea uses cosmetic body modifications as an affirmative deconstruction of power in addition to it being a force that drives her towards the desired molarity.

Purpose This thesis aims to provide guidelines for cosmetic companies on how to use social media in times of crisis. Background In today’s society, cosmetic companies can face crises that can vary according to their level of impact and their level of controllability. These crises can go viral and reach a huge amount of stakeholders since social media can take on many different forms such as Facebook, Twitter, and YouTube. It is important to know how to manage these different com-   munication tools and it is even more crucial in times of crisis. However, social media and the cosmetic industry have not been combined in previous studies. Therefore, it is beneficial for cosmetic companies to have guidelines on how to use social media in times of crisis. Method The method is based on an inductive approach. Benchmarking case studies reflect crises that occurred in industries other than the cosmetic industry. The findings from the case studies are then complemented with a chosen company representative from the cosmetic industry. Finally, a semi-structured interview has been conducted to balance the research and add new valuable information to the investigation. Conclusion Based on the results of the analysis, the authors of the thesis have been able to provide guidelines to cosmetic companies on how to use social media in times of crisis. These guidelines are divided into two parts: the first part advises guidelines to follow while the second part recommends factors to avoid on social media.

The thesis determined predominant themes that surround the topic of cosmetic surgery. On the basis of the findings a thematic counselling framework for cosmetic surgery clinical practice is proposed. A mixed methods design was chosen for this study. A thematic analysis was used to ascertain themes. A quasi-numerative approach was also utilised to establish the relative incidence of themes. Sources of data were media, internet message boards and interviews with men and women about cosmetic surgery. Two overarching themes emerged within the coding process. These were factors that might persuade someone to have and factors that might dissuade someone from having cosmetic surgery. A number of persuading and dissuading sub-themes were identified. Quantitative results demonstrated that within the two overarching themes 58% of the talk was persuasive of, whilst 42% was dissuasive of having cosmetic surgery. Some of the sub-themes found in the thesis were considered to compete with one another. This is evidence that patients have to negotiate conflicting information about cosmetic surgery. The findings of the dissertation are interpreted within a theoretical context. Through applying theories of decision-making and cognitive dissonance, suggestions are made about how health professionals might proceed clinically in counselling with cosmetic surgery patients or those considering having a procedure. The thematic counselling framework proposed within this thesis is intended to assist patients and clinicians with the numerous messages from our social community (societal messages) that shape their relationship to cosmetic surgery. To the author’s knowledge, it is the first clinical framework to do so. / Thesis (Ph.D.) - University of Adelaide, School of Medicine, 2009

A partir de uma abordagem do fenômeno das cirurgias plásticas enquanto algo que se conforma na prática, esta dissertação versa sobre os limites entre o reparador e o estético relativos a esses procedimentos. Tendo como espinha dorsal a formação das(os) médicas(os) e a constituição dessa especialidade da medicina, tais fronteiras serão abordadas a partir do entendimento de que não apenas auxiliam na conformação das cirurgias plásticas, mas são também constituídas em relação a essas últimas. Através da participação em eventos promovidos por Ligas de Cirurgia Plástica e entrevistas realizadas com graduandas, residentes, cirurgiãs e cirurgiões plásticos, este trabalho tem como objetivo construir uma narrativa, entre tantas outras possíveis, acerca dos modos como os limites entre o estético e o reparador têm se instituído discursivo-materialmente. Antes, contudo, parte-se de uma abordagem histórica a fim de uma compreensão mais situada a respeito de como essa especialidade tem se conformado ao longo do tempo. Por meio de diferentes investimentos esta dissertação trata, em síntese, sobre como esses procedimentos assumem diferentes realidades. Assim, contingências históricas, sociais, econômicas, políticas e materiais, entre inúmeras outras, são compreendidas de maneira indissociável como atuantes na conformação das cirurgias plásticas e dos limites concernentes a elas. Por fim, sugere-se que um entendimento dessas realidades enquanto múltiplas nos auxilia na construção de uma apreensão do conhecimento médico como algo que não está dado, mas como práticas histórico-materialmente situadas. Ainda, a partir da discussão central proposta por este trabalho são estabelecidos pontos de confluência entre as cirurgias plásticas e as fronteiras relativas ao corpo e aos binômios natureza/cultura, saúde/doença, forma/função, entre outros. / This dissertation addresses the limits between the cosmetic and the reconstructive surgeries from an approach of the plastic surgery phenomenon as something that conforms in practice. Having as a backbone the formation of the doctors and the constitution of this specialty of medicine, such boundaries will be approached from the understanding that they not only aid in the conformation of plastic surgeries but also are constituted of this last one. Through the participation in events promoted by Plastic Surgery Leagues and interviews with undergraduates, residents and plastic surgeons, this study aims to construct a narrative, among many others possible, about the ways in which the boundaries between the cosmetic and the reconstructive surgeries have been instituted discursive-materially. First, however, it starts with a historical approach in order to understand more about how this specialty has conformed over time. Through different investments, this dissertation deals, in short, with about how these procedures take on different realities. Thus, historical, social, economic, political, and material contingencies, among countless others, are understood as acting in the conformation of plastic surgeries and the limits concerning them. Finally, it suggests that an understanding of these realities as multiple helps us in constructing an apprehension of the medical knowledge as something that is not given but as historical-materially situated practices. Still, from the proposed discussion by this study, points of convergence between plastic surgeries and boundaries related to the body and to the binomials nature/culture, health/illness, form/function, among others, are established.

A partir de uma abordagem do fenômeno das cirurgias plásticas enquanto algo que se conforma na prática, esta dissertação versa sobre os limites entre o reparador e o estético relativos a esses procedimentos. Tendo como espinha dorsal a formação das(os) médicas(os) e a constituição dessa especialidade da medicina, tais fronteiras serão abordadas a partir do entendimento de que não apenas auxiliam na conformação das cirurgias plásticas, mas são também constituídas em relação a essas últimas. Através da participação em eventos promovidos por Ligas de Cirurgia Plástica e entrevistas realizadas com graduandas, residentes, cirurgiãs e cirurgiões plásticos, este trabalho tem como objetivo construir uma narrativa, entre tantas outras possíveis, acerca dos modos como os limites entre o estético e o reparador têm se instituído discursivo-materialmente. Antes, contudo, parte-se de uma abordagem histórica a fim de uma compreensão mais situada a respeito de como essa especialidade tem se conformado ao longo do tempo. Por meio de diferentes investimentos esta dissertação trata, em síntese, sobre como esses procedimentos assumem diferentes realidades. Assim, contingências históricas, sociais, econômicas, políticas e materiais, entre inúmeras outras, são compreendidas de maneira indissociável como atuantes na conformação das cirurgias plásticas e dos limites concernentes a elas. Por fim, sugere-se que um entendimento dessas realidades enquanto múltiplas nos auxilia na construção de uma apreensão do conhecimento médico como algo que não está dado, mas como práticas histórico-materialmente situadas. Ainda, a partir da discussão central proposta por este trabalho são estabelecidos pontos de confluência entre as cirurgias plásticas e as fronteiras relativas ao corpo e aos binômios natureza/cultura, saúde/doença, forma/função, entre outros. / This dissertation addresses the limits between the cosmetic and the reconstructive surgeries from an approach of the plastic surgery phenomenon as something that conforms in practice. Having as a backbone the formation of the doctors and the constitution of this specialty of medicine, such boundaries will be approached from the understanding that they not only aid in the conformation of plastic surgeries but also are constituted of this last one. Through the participation in events promoted by Plastic Surgery Leagues and interviews with undergraduates, residents and plastic surgeons, this study aims to construct a narrative, among many others possible, about the ways in which the boundaries between the cosmetic and the reconstructive surgeries have been instituted discursive-materially. First, however, it starts with a historical approach in order to understand more about how this specialty has conformed over time. Through different investments, this dissertation deals, in short, with about how these procedures take on different realities. Thus, historical, social, economic, political, and material contingencies, among countless others, are understood as acting in the conformation of plastic surgeries and the limits concerning them. Finally, it suggests that an understanding of these realities as multiple helps us in constructing an apprehension of the medical knowledge as something that is not given but as historical-materially situated practices. Still, from the proposed discussion by this study, points of convergence between plastic surgeries and boundaries related to the body and to the binomials nature/culture, health/illness, form/function, among others, are established.

Este trabalho resultou de uma investigação que objetivou verificar e analisar, do ponto de vista de trabalhadoras que se submeteram a cirurgia plástica estética, se e de que modo o embelezamento físico se mostra como requisito da gestão gerencialista para o exercício do trabalho imaterial. Para tanto a revisão da literatura abrangeu trabalho imaterial, através de autores como Gorz, Grisci e Pelbart, gestão gerencialista, através de autores como Gaulejac e Chanlat, e embelezamento físico, através de autores como Mansano, Bauman e Lipovetsky. Trata-se de uma pesquisa qualitativa e exploratória, e, para sua realização foram entrevistados seis cirurgiões plásticos e seis trabalhadoras, indicadas por estes, que se submeteram a cirurgia plástica estética. As entrevistas ocorreram em três cidades do Rio Grande do Sul. A análise dos dados deu-se segundo os parâmetros de Minayo (2001). As evidências empíricas mostraram que, no caso das trabalhadoras entrevistadas, o embelezamento físico pode ser considerado requisito da gestão gerencialista para o exercício do trabalho imaterial. Além disso, mostraram que características da gestão gerencialista e do trabalho imaterial encontravam-se na narrativa das trabalhadoras estudadas. Mostraram ainda que os cirurgiões plásticos estéticos entrevistados, confirmam a tese de que, no caso, das trabalhadoras analisadas, a cirurgia plástica estética pode ser considerada um elemento de embelezamento físico utilizado a fim de se conseguir retorno no trabalho de cada uma. Por fim, as narrativas revelaram que a cirurgia plástica estética é também um artifício utilizado pelas trabalhadoras entrevistadas na tentativa de manter-se dentro de um determinado padrão de embelezamento físico que pode gerar rendimentos ao trabalho imaterial. / This paper is the result of a study that aimed to verify and analyze, from the point of view of workers that underwent cosmetic plastic surgery, if and how physical beautification is a requirement of managerialism to perform immaterial labor. The literature review included immaterial labor, through authors such as Gorz, Grisci and Pelbart, managerialism, through authors such as Gaulejac and Chanlat, and physical beautification, through authors such as Mansano, Bauman and Lipovetsky. This is a qualitative and exploratory research, and six plastic surgeons and six female workers were interviewed, workers who were referred by the surgeons and had undergone plastic surgery. The interviews took place in three cities of Rio Grande do Sul. Data analysis was performed according to Minayo’s parameters (2001). Empirical evidence has shown that, in the case of female workers interviewed, physical beautification may be considered a requirement of managerial management for the exercise of immaterial labor. In addition, they showed that characteristics of managerialist management and immaterial work were found in the narrative of the workers studied. They also showed that the aesthetic plastic surgeons interviewed confirm the thesis that, in the case of the workers analyzed, cosmetic plastic surgery can be considered as a physical embellishment element used in order to achieve a return in the work of each one. Finally, the narratives revealed that cosmetic plastic surgery is also an artifice used by the workers interviewed in an attempt to keep within a certain pattern of physical beautification that can generate income for immaterial labor.