no / Hair diversity, its style, colour, shape and growth pattern is one of our most defining characteristics. The natural versus temporary style is influenced by what happens to our hair during our lifetime, such as genetic hair loss, sudden hair shedding, greying and pathological hair loss in the various forms of alopecia because of genetics, illness or medication. Despite the size and global value of the hair care market, our knowledge of what controls the innate and within-lifetime characteristics of hair diversity remains poorly understood. In the last decade, drivers of knowledge have moved into the arena of genetics where hair traits are obvious and measurable and genetic polymorphisms are being found that raise valuable questions about the biology of hair growth. The recent discovery that the gene for trichohyalin contributes to hair shape comes as no surprise to the hair biologists who have believed for 100 years that hair shape is linked to the structure and function of the inner root sheath. Further conundrums awaiting elucidation include the polymorphisms in the androgen receptor (AR) described in male pattern alopecia whose location on the X chromosome places this genetic contributor into the female line. The genetics of female hair loss is less clear with polymorphisms in the AR not associated with female pattern hair loss. Lifestyle choices are also implicated in hair diversity. Greying, which also has a strong genetic component, is often suggested to have a lifestyle (stress) influence and hair follicle melanocytes show declining antioxidant protection with age and lowered resistance to stress. It is likely that hair research will undergo a renaissance on the back of the rising information from genetic studies as well as the latest contributions from the field of epigenetics.

Submitted by Celso Magalhaes (celsomagalhaes@ufrrj.br) on 2017-06-09T11:00:51Z No. of bitstreams: 1 2016 - Juliana Ribeiro.pdf: 856620 bytes, checksum: b009855f0fb906d7ed972c195d89eccf (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2017-06-09T11:00:51Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 2016 - Juliana Ribeiro.pdf: 856620 bytes, checksum: b009855f0fb906d7ed972c195d89eccf (MD5) Previous issue date: 2016-02-23 / In this present study we tell the story of four black ladies whose curly hair is a protagonist on their daily lives. Such stories bring to light situations of racism, sexism, as well as the search for self and world understanding which most black women go through during their relationship with their hair strings: childhood, capillary transition and empowerment of the curly hair strings. In order to interact with such plots (or drama) we use as basis Gomes, Bakhtin, Bhabha, Fanon, Certeau, Adichie, among other writers that contributed significantly for the ethical and aesthetic research materialized in this work. The methodology has been created under the indications of attentive hearing and lovingness proposed by Bakhtin. This author has guided us regarding the abrangent literary aesthetic finishing and at the same time revealer of the tensions present in the diversity of daily life. / No presente estudo contamos a hist?ria de quatro mulheres negras e o protagonismo dos seus cabelos crespos no cotidiano das suas vidas. Tais hist?rias trazem ? tona situa??es de racismo, sexismo, bem como a busca pela compreens?o de si e de mundo pelas quais a maioria das mulheres negras enfrenta durante algumas etapas pontuais no relacionamento com seus fios: inf?ncia, transi??o capilar, e empoderamento dos fios crespos. Para dialogarmos com tais tramas (ou dramas) nos alicer?amos em Gomes, Bakhtin, Bhabha, Fanon, Certeau, Adichie entre outros autores que contribu?ram significativamente para a pesquisa ?tica e est?tica materializada neste trabalho. A metodologia foi pensada sob as indica??es de escuta atenta e amorosidade sugeridas por Bakhtin. Este mesmo autor nos orientou quanto ao acabamento est?tico liter?rio abrangedor e ao mesmo tempo revelador das tens?es presentes na diversidade da vida cotidiana

Submitted by JOSIANE SANTOS DE OLIVEIRA (josianeso) on 2017-06-16T16:30:48Z No. of bitstreams: 1 Aline Tusset De Rocco_.pdf: 700422 bytes, checksum: ea20b01c5059be46fd77ff6607506d4c (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2017-06-16T16:30:48Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Aline Tusset De Rocco_.pdf: 700422 bytes, checksum: ea20b01c5059be46fd77ff6607506d4c (MD5) Previous issue date: 2017-03-29 / Nenhuma / Esta dissertação visa tratar sobre as interações entre novas mercadorias de consumo e a beleza negra, mais especificamente o cabelo crespo, levando-se em conta os estudos já realizados sobre a estética negra, assim como a agenda do feminismo negro. Através de uma etnografia em eventos como o CacheiaSul e a Marcha do Orgulho Crespo em Porto Alegre, assim como uma etnografia digital em canais do Youtube que tratam sobre cabelos crespos, busca-se compreender a relação entre o consumo de produtos para o cabelo crespo e a construção de uma beleza negra pelas mulheres negras. Interessa contextualizar o processo de busca das mulheres negras pelo reconhecimento nas dimensões estética, política e social, além de observar e analisar a possível construção da identidade estética das mulheres negras através das novas mercadorias de consumo para cabelos crespos. Deste modo, busca-se analisar a possível construção e afirmação estética das mulheres negras através da possibilidade de criação e interação em vídeos disponíveis no Youtube. O intuito de fazer uma etnografia digital, que se relaciona também a militância fora das redes sociais, é de compreender os usos dos produtos, além das relações entre as mulheres negras, as mídias, e as novas mercadorias estéticas, a fim de perceber possíveis espaços de visibilidade para a beleza negra através do consumo. Por fim, visa-se analisar esta interação na tentativa de compreender dimensões da estética negra percebidas também como resistência política e social pelas mulheres negras. / This dissertation aims to deal with the interactions between new forms of consumption and black beauty, more specifically curly hair, taking into account the studies already carried out on black aesthetics, as well as the agenda of black feminism. Through an ethnography in events such as CacheiaSul and the Marcha do Orgulho Crespo in Porto Alegre, as well as a digital ethnography on YouTube channels that deal with curly hair, we seek to understand the relationship between the consumption of products for curly hair and the building of a black beauty by the black women. It is interesting to contextualize the process of black women's search for recognition in the aesthetic, political and social dimensions, besides observing and analyzing the possible construction of the aesthetic identity of the black woman through the new aesthetic consumer goods. In this way, we seek to analyze the possible construction and aesthetic affirmation of the black women through the possibility of creation and interaction in videos available on Youtube. The purpose of making a digital ethnography, wich also relates to militancy outside social networks, is to understand uses of products, relations between black women, media, and new aesthetic products, in order to perceive possible new spaces of visibility for black beauty through consumption. Finally, it aims to analyze this interaction in the attempt to understand dimensions of the black aesthetics also seem as political and social resistance by black women.

Made available in DSpace on 2016-08-17T18:01:57Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 MARLI MADALENA ESTRELA PAIXAO.pdf: 2599234 bytes, checksum: 6e4db20450f6cdf6c47d1e289efaa3d8 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2008-07-25 / This scientific paper is based on an ethnographic research developed in Afro Zíndze Beauty Salon, located in Historical Center in Sao Luís-Ma. This paper tries to understand symbolic, cultural, political and religious representations concerned to black men and women s hair. This research emphasizes that individual aesthetics has a relation to an image politics that is inside an identity resistence context. In this sense, hair study acquires several meanings when is related to racial relation system. Therefore, hair study can help us to think about different aspects belong to black identity. Afro Zíndze Beauty Salon is an exceptional place to this kind of investigation. In general, the curly hair even stigmatized, it has a resignification which is transformed in identity and self-esteem symbol. / A presente dissertação é resultado de uma pesquisa etnográfica desenvolvida no salão de beleza Afro Zíndze, situado no centro histórico da cidade de São Luís-Ma. O trabalho procura dar conta dos significados (simbólico, cultural, político e religioso) concernentes à estetização dos cabelos de negros e negras. Procura ressaltar que a experiência estética vivenciada pelos sujeitos está relacionada com uma política da imagem inserida num contexto de resistência identitária. Nessa perspectiva, o cabelo adquire múltiplas significações quando pensado no interior do sistema das relações raciais. O cabelo, portanto, nos ajuda a refletir sobre os diferentes aspectos atinentes à identidade negra. O salão Afro Zíndze revela-se, nesse caso, como espaço privilegiado que permite pensar não somente os conflitos relativos à imagem de negros e negras, mas também os aspectos relacionados com a valorização identitária e resistência a partir da estetização dos cabelos. Em decorrência disso, o cabelo crespo, socialmente visto sob a ótica do estigma, não sem contradições, é ressignificado e convertido em símbolo de afirmação identitária e de valorização de auto-estima.