Made available in DSpace on 2016-08-02T21:42:29Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 CRISTIANE MARAVELLI FIORAVANZO.pdf: 1668667 bytes, checksum: 269fbe6fd1e6a3611334f70f62ede70b (MD5) Previous issue date: 2013-02-26 / Allied to studies about sustainability, there are numerous discussions and attitudes to oppose the consequences of the irrational use of the planet s natural resources. And out of them comes the understanding of the consumption, its influences and alternatives. An individual may have consumerist or ethical consumption habits. The consumerist is seen as having the opposite of the ethical consumer s habits, being led to a purchase by impulse or stimuli, without considering his or her needs, or future impact. The consumption is, in fact, necessary to mankind. However, when it is done exaggeratedly and incorrectly, it may cause serious social and/or environmental consequences. The ethical consumer is able to ponder the existing possibilities, the impact that may be caused by the acquisition, in order to minimize its consequences, and somehow contribute to a more sustainable society. The main goal of this research is to comprehend the researchers adherence to the behavior of the ethical consumerism, as well as evaluate how people who are part of internet social networks share information about this topic, considering that the internet is one of the main means of communication and sharing information. For the research, the methodology of qualitative analysis of exploratory character was used, as well as the technique of research in depth, based on semi-structured questionnaire. Through the analysis of the content, the understanding of the results shows that all of the interviewed have a certain degree of knowledge about ethical consumerism, and the majority tries to have some kind of ethical attitude. Still, these individuals may suffer some influence in the process, especially on a personal character, which leads to an alteration of attitude. In relation to how the information about the topic is shared on the internet, it was possible to see that a great part of those interviewed has had some kind of experience of the situation, but in a small scale, and few occurrences. It is also believed that this channel may be used to spread the theme, which leads us to conclude that it is viable to the information sharing. Yet, considering the breaking of habits, it is used for a greater involvement of the users. The analysis presents an understanding, and perspectives obtained from the researched theme, broadening horizons to new studies, and deepening the reflections presented in the paper. / Aliadas aos estudos sobre sustentabilidade, há inúmeras discussões e atitudes para combater consequências do uso irracional dos recursos naturais do planeta. Surge assim o entendimento do consumo, suas influências e alternativas. O indivíduo pode ter hábitos de consumo de forma consumista ou de forma consciente. O consumista é entendido como o oposto dos hábitos do consumidor consciente, sendo levado pelo impulso e pelo estímulo à compra, sem avaliar suas necessidades e impactos futuros. O consumo é de fato indispensável à humanidade. Entretanto, quando aplicado de forma exacerbada e incorreta, pode gerar sérias consequências sociais e/ou ambientais. O consumidor consciente tem a qualificação de avaliar dentre as possibilidades existentes, os impactos que podem ser ocasionados com a aquisição, de tal modo, a minimizar suas consequências e contribuir de alguma forma para uma sociedade mais sustentável. O principal objetivo desta pesquisa foi compreender a aderência dos pesquisados ao comportamento de consumo consciente, bem como avaliar o compartilhamento de informações sobre o tema por pessoas que estão inseridas em alguma rede social na internet, partindo do pressuposto que este é um dos principais meios de comunicação e compartilhamento de informações. Para a pesquisa, foi utilizada a metodologia de análise qualitativa de caráter exploratório e a técnica de entrevistas em profundidade baseada em roteiro semiestruturado. Por meio da análise do conteúdo, a compreensão dos resultados aponta que todos os entrevistados possuem um grau de conhecimento sobre o consumo consciente e a maioria tenta ter algum tipo de ação consciente. Mas, ao mesmo tempo, esses indivíduos podem sofrer influências neste processo principalmente de caráter pessoal, levando à alteração de ação. Com relação ao compartilhamento do tema nas redes sociais na internet, foi possível identificar que grande parte dos entrevistados já teve algum tipo de experiência da situação, mas ainda em pequena escala, com poucas ocorrências. Também acredita-se que o canal pode ser utilizado para a proliferação do tema, o que nos leva à conclusão de que é um canal viável ao compartilhamento. Porém, mediante a ruptura de hábitos, é utilizado para a ocorrência de um maior engajamento por parte dos usuários. A análise apresenta uma compreensão e perspectivas a partir do recorte estudado, abrindo horizonte para novos estudos e aprofundamento das reflexões apresentadas neste trabalho.

En kvalitativ studie om konsumenters åsikter om etisk information på klädesplagg Det har identifierats att konsumenter saknar kunskap och information för att göra etiska köpbeslut. En följd av detta är att konsumenters bristande kunskap om etiskt mode hindrar dem från att förändra deras oro till faktiska köp. Syftet är att undersöka hur konsumenters kunskap, oro och åsikter kring etiskt mode reflekteras i deras syn på vilken etisk information de vill ha på klädprodukter. Förhoppningen är att studiens resultat ska bidra till mer kunskap till modebranschen om konsumenters behov av information vid köp av etiska och hållbara produkter. De forskningsfrågor som studien syftar att besvara är följande; hur resonerar konsumenter kring etisk information som sätts på klädesplagg, vilken etisk information vill konsumenter ha på klädesplagg; hur vill konsumenter att etisk information ska presenteras på klädesplagg för att de enklare ska kunna välja etiska klädprodukter.   Vi har utgått från en teoretisk referensram som belyser konsumenters köpbeteende av etiskt mode vilken inkluderar en modell baserad på sex teser. Från dessa har endast tre teser använts och utifrån dessa har en egen analysmodell presenterats som användes för att analysera vår tempiriska material. Analysmodellen inkluderar konsumenters kunskap och oro om etiskt mode; konsumenters åsikter och övertygelser om företags etiska handlingar; vilken etisk information vill konsumenter ha på klädesplagg; hur konsumenter vill att etisk information ska presenteras på klädesplagg för att de enklare ska kunna välja etiska klädprodukter. För att samla in empiriskt material har metoden fokusgrupp valts där vi har gjort två grupper.   Resultatet av denna studie blev att konsumenter anser att dagens information inte är tillräckligt synlig och de känner att de inte har kunskapen att bedöma vilka produkter som är etiska eller oetiska. Konsumenter anser att klädindustrin är en smutsig industri som behöver förändring. Det har även visat sig att konsumenter känner sig tveksamma till företags verkliga syfte bakom deras etiska arbete samt har lågt förtroende för dem. Den etiska information som konsumenter vill ha är bland annat märkningar som land, närproducerat, egen producerat och symboler för etik och barnarbete. Konsumenter vill att detta ska presenteras tydligt och synlig på främst etiketter. / It has been identified that consumers don’t have the information or knowledge they need to make ethical purchasing decisions. A consequence of this is that consumers lack the knowledge of ethical fashion which prevents them from changing their concerns to actual purchases. The purpose of this study is to investigate how consumers’ knowledge, concern and opinions about ethical fashion reason in which information they want on clothing products. The hope is that the result of this study can contribute to more knowledge for the fashion industry about consumers’ need for information when purchasing ethical and sustainable products. This study aims to answer the following research questions; how do consumers deliberate about ethical information on garments; which ethical information do consumers want on clothes; and how would consumers prefer ethical information to be presented in order to being able to make better choices when purchasing garments.   We have proceeded from a theoretical framework which illustrates consumers’ buying behavior of ethical fashion which includes a model based on six hypothesis. From these only three hypothesis have been used and form the basis for our own analytical model that was used to analyse the empirical data. The analytical model includes consumers’ knowledge and concerns about ethical fashion; consumers’ beliefs about companies ethical actions; which ethical information do consumers want on clothes; and how consumers want ethical information to be presented in order to being able to make better choices when purchasing garments. As a research method we have used interviews with two focus groups.   The result of this study showed that consumers believe that the current ethical information is not easily available and they feel that they don’t have the knowledge to decide which products that are ethical or not. Consumers feel that the clothing industry is a dirty one which needs to substantially change. The result also shows that consumers feel quite doubtful as to fashion companies real purposes behind their ethical messages and that consumers have low faith in them. The ethical information that consumers want are labels that contain information such as country of origin, whether locally produced or not, own produced as well as recognized symbols regarding ethics and child labor. Consumers want this information to be clearly presented and visible on tags.   The language of the study is Swedish.

La tesi include tre studi indipendenti che hanno come tema comune la Consumer Ambivalence nella Shopping Experience. Il punto di partenza è che la Consumer Ambivalence è sempre stata percepita come un qualcosa da evitare in quanto impatta negativamente sul comportamento del consumatore (es. soddisfazione e fedeltà). La letteratura però evidenzia come in alcune service experience questo costrutto risulti banalizzato. L’obiettivo della ricerca è quindi esplorare il ruolo della Consumer Ambivalence in diverse shopping experience attraverso le percezioni, i discorsi, le emozioni e le esperienze sia degli shopper sia del personale di contatto. Ho scelto due contesti di analisi: le esperienze di shopping di lusso e di shopping etico. Entrambi i settori sono in continua crescita nonostante il periodo di crisi economica e le emozioni negative (e positive) vissute dagli shopper e riconosciute dalla letteratura. Attraverso un approccio costruttivista i miei risultati principali dimostrano come la Consumer Ambivalence non sia sempre uno stato emotivo da rifuggire ma qualcosa a cui tendere e sfruttare. Concludo affermando come questo stato emozionale multiplo sia spesso inevitabile e parte intrinseca nelle esperienze di shopping ad elevata connotazione emotiva. / My thesis is composed by three papers that have a common theme: Consumer Ambivalence in Shopping Experience. The general starting point is that Consumer Ambivalence has always been perceived as something to avoid because it decreases relevant consumer outcomes (e.g. satisfaction and loyalty). However, some evidences in literature suggest that, particularly in some service experiences, this construct is trivialized. The main research goal is to explore the role of Consumer Ambivalence in different shopping experiences, investigating how this construct can impact on shopping behaviors, considering perceptions, discourses, emotions and experiences of both shoppers and company personnel. I chose two settings of investigation which are favorable contexts to identify different mixed emotions: luxury shopping experience and ethical shopping experience. Both industries are particular relevant because their consumer market value is still increasing despite the current period of economic crisis and literature evidences of negative (and positive) emotions felt by shoppers. Through a constructivist epistemological approach, my main findings elicit that Consumer Ambivalence can be an emotional state which has not to be rejected, but rather be something to aim for. Moreover, I argue that this mixed emotional state is essentially unavoidable and is intrinsically part of high affect shopping experiences.

As documented in previous research, the attitude-behaviour gap (inconsistency between declared values and actual purchases) is phenomena which affects consumption in many different markets of ethical consumption. The diploma thesis analyses this phenomena, specifically in Czech Fair trade market. The attitude behaviour gap in the Czech Fair trade market was found to be in around third of the population, confirming the presence of the gap, which replicated the results of previous research in the field. From people with pro Fair trade values who do not buy Fair trade products, approximately half is not aware of Fair trade existence, indicating that lack of Fair trade awareness could be possibly hurting Fair trade sales. When analyzing respondents with pro Fair trade values who also have Fair Trade awareness, the skepticism towards ability of Fair trade movement to fulfill their declared goals and high quality perception of Fair trade products turned out to be the strongest and statistically significant predictors of whether one buys Fair trade or not. Focus on raising awareness about Fair trade existence, improving quality perception and decreasing skepticism towards Fair trade conversion is suggested for Fair trade marketers for helping to convert people with pro Fair trade values into Fair trade buyers.

The environmental organisation F/ACT Movement started as a reaction to the unsustainable business that the fashion industry represents. Their ambition is to change the fashion industry and give it a sustainable direction. They intend to accomplish this in collaboration with counties, universities and companies - but their prime audience is the consumers. The purpose of this essay was to study how F/ACT Movement engages their audience on social media around the subject sustainable fashion. In addition I aimed to examine how it can help them shape a strong community and long term public relationships. To attain the purpose of this study the theoretical framework includes theories of sustainability, consumption behavior and multimodal critical discourse analysis (MCDA). MCDA helped me analyze how F/ACT Movements structures language and visual text to engage the followers. Furthermore I added theories of social identity, communities on digital platforms and public relations. The method used in this essay was a multimodal discourse analysis, which intent is to study the meaning of how language and visual texts are constructed. Eight Instagram posts were studied and several patterns were found in the analysis. The results showed that F/ACT Movement engage their followers by using both a strong and confident language as well as visual symbols that benefits fashion as a sustainable lifestyle. Moreover they present sustainable facts and solutions which support the ideology of how a green lifestyle and consumption behavior can create a sustainable future. The results also showed that F/ACT Movement combines several different discourses in a complex way, which indicates that their vision is to contribute with a change on a social and cultural scale. Finally the results showed that F/ACT Movement values the dialog, community and relationship with their followers deeply. By inviting their followers to be a part of the group identity “sustainable consumers” they create a strong community. Furthermore they are communicating with an audience who already has knowledge and a high interest in sustainable fashion, which gives them a beneficial position to build strong public relations. In conclusion the study shows that F/ACT Movement uses a strong but friendly approach as a strategy to make the fashion industry a sustainable business.

Syftet med denna studie är att analysera hur unga vuxna går tillväga när de handlar kläder och skor online. Vi befinner oss i en tid då det sker ett skifte från att handla i fysiska butiker till onlinebutiker och med tanke på den negativa effekt som klädbranschen har på miljön är det viktigt att tänka hållbart när man handlar online. I den här studien försöker vi undersöka hur konsumenter väger in hållbarhet i sin praktik, men också vad som skulle påverka dem att göra mer hållbara val. Studien bygger på praktikteori och den digitala köpprocessen. Vi har använt personliga intervjuer för att samla in materialet som vi sedan använde för att analysera. Resultaten visar att det finns tre olika sätt att handla online, det spontana, det genomtänkta och det rutinmässiga. Vilken shoppingmetod som används påverkar även konsumenten och dess hållbarhetsbeslut. Enligt denna studie är det mest hållbara sättet att agera det genomtänkta sättet, medan det spontana och rutinmässiga sättet är det minst hållbara. Studien visar också att den digitala köpprocessen ser olika ut beroende på konsument och vilket sätt de använder. / The aim of this study is to analyze how young adults practice shopping for clothes and shoes online. We are in a time when there is a shift from shopping in physical stores to online stores and given the negative effect that the clothing industry has on the environment, it is important to think sustainably when shopping online. In this study, we try to look into how consumers weigh sustainability into their practice, but also what would influence them to make more sustainable choices. The study is based on practice theory and the digital buying process. We have used personal interviews to collect the material which we then used to analyze. The results show that there are three different ways to shop online, the spontaneous, the well-thought-out and the routine way. Which shopping method is used also affects the consumer and its sustainability decisions. According to this study, the most sustainable way to act is the well-thought-out way, while the spontaneous and routine way is the least sustainable. The study also shows that the digital buying process looks different depending on the consumer and which way they use.

La consommation fait partie des mécanismes qui permettent aux individus de se distinguer, plus particulièrement à travers les pratiques alimentaires, culturelles et sportives. Il a été démontré que les consommateurs expriment leur éthique dans leurs choix de consommation. Cependant, la définition de cette consommation éthique reste assez floue en marketing et en comportement du consommateur et sa mesure n’est pas toujours adaptée. Aussi, les travaux théoriques et les modèles dans le domaine de l’éthique en marketing ont, pour la plupart été développés dans le cadre des organisations. Nous proposons dans cette thèse de clarifier les concepts de sensibilité éthique du consommateur (SEC) et de comportement de consommation éthique (CCE) et de construire un cadre théorique approprié à l’étude de l’éthique dans un contexte de consommation. Après une revue de littérature sur les origines philosophiques de l’éthique et les travaux qui lient l’éthique à l’entreprise, puis à la consommation, nous proposons un modèle conceptuel qui décrit un processus de prise de décision éthique. Ce modèle est testé puis validé à l’aide d’équations structurelles. Une étude qualitative exploratoire (14 interviews), suivie d’une collecte de données quantitatives (559 participants), servent de terrain de recherche. Les résultats offrent des perspectives intéressantes dans le domaine de l’éthique des consommateurs, tant au niveau académique que managérial. / Consumption is part of the mechanisms that allow individuals to distinguish themselves, especially through culture, sports and food practices. Academics found that consumers express their ethics through their consumption choices. However, the definition of ethical consumption remains quite blurred in the field of consumer behavior and its measurement is not always appropriate. We propose in this research to clarify the concepts of consumer’s ethical sensibility (CES) and consumer’s ethical consumption behavior (ECB). Then, we build an appropriate conceptual framework to explore ethics in the field of consumption. First, a qualitative study was conducted with 14 in-depth interviews and then, in a second step, a quantitative data collection was conducted among 559 consumers. The results open interesting perspectives for academics and managers in the field of consumer ethics.

There is a growing interest for ethical consumption, in general as well as inthe clothing industry. The consumption of ethical clothes is a complexphenomenon though, where aspects such as quality, style, function, price,time assets, accessibility and ethical attitudes affect the decision making.Researches that have been executed show the diversities in developmentbetween different countries. There are fairly strong indications that theethical clothing market is more advanced in the United Kingdom than inSweden and therefore these two countries are objects of this research.The aim with this thesis is to describe and explain what have affected thedevelopment of the ethical clothing market in the United Kingdom comparedto Sweden. For that reason a qualitative approach has mainly been used,where deep interviews with people within the ethical clothing industry havecontributed to most of the empirical part. As a complement secondary datasuch as statistics of the two countries have been used in order to investigateour area.One useful tool, among others, to investigate the macro environment is theSLEPT model. With this model the surroundings are being evaluated withinthe areas of social/cultural, legal, economical, political and technologicalfactors. They influence differently on the possibility for new companies andbusinesses to operate and the factors can all together contribute to a betterunderstanding of the market environment. Population, income levels,Internet usage, political government and legislation regarding theenvironment and business are data that have been studied in this thesis.Sweden and the United Kingdom are rather similar when it comes toeconomical, political, legal and technological aspect, why the social/culturaldifferences are more distinct. The index of national culture, created byHofstede (2005) helps to explain some of the dissimilarities. The diversity inshort-term thinking, masculinity and individualism in the two countries maycontribute to an explanation of what have affected the development of theethical clothing market. / <p>Program: Textilekonomutbildningen</p><p>Uppsatsnivå: C</p>

Made available in DSpace on 2016-03-15T19:48:19Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Carlos Antonio Carneiro Barbosa.pdf: 4079455 bytes, checksum: 5cb865e2d819e740485ed190124a3fc1 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2012-03-14 / Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior / Faust: the power of the myth. The myth has itself a transformation power. On it there is a prospect to restore or to destroy, because the myth has a particular characteristic that never let the things on way they are. So this is the Doctor Faust´s myth that the legacy plots like a construct of the modern man representation and at the same time it is an overpowered rage of rationality without heart and soul, property of our contemporary society. Its origins are perfectly searchingly, because it is about a modern myth and beyond that, the myth is alive and palpitate. The historic figure of Johann Georg Faust aggregates during the 16th Century in Germany that brings peculiar characteristic of men like Agrippa von Nettesheim e Paracelso, both alchemist and his contemporaries whose generated a legendary substratum of the myth. After the publication of Faustbuch (1587), a record is not totally veridical about the feat and profanity of Georg Faust, the incipient myth found its way to England bringing at this point personal traits from the Elizabethan wizard, the Doctor John Dee. From this blend between the German myth and the England wizard, it was born the literary Faust through the writing play between 1588 and 1589 by Christopher Marlowe, The Tragic History of Doctor Faustus. Popularized, the story achieved fame in the European market adapted for the puppets theater. And it was the way that the myth reaches the knowledge of Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, German poet. Author of Faust: a tragedy, parts I and II (1808 e 1832), Goethe was the responsible for the consolidation of the myth and to make it become universal, it was considered his highly exponent. One life dedicated for this work, the Goethe´s Faust was richly explored by Carl Gustav Jung, who was considerable part of his studies about archetypal psychology of unconscious. It is exactly the archetypal relation of the Doctor Faustus´s myth with the weberian model of Protestant rationality, with the contemporary religion of opulence, the motto of this dissertation. / Fausto: o poder de um mito. O mito traz em si poder transformador. Nele reside a possibilidade de restaurar ou de destruir, pois é próprio do mito nunca deixar as coisas do jeito como elas estão. Assim é o mito do Doutor Fausto, cujo legado urde como constructo da representação do homem moderno e, ao mesmo tempo, da fúria avassaladora da racionalidade sem alma e sem coração própria de nossa sociedade contemporânea. Suas origens são perfeitamente sondáveis, pois trata-se de um mito moderno e, mais, um mito vivo e pulsante. À figura histórica de Johann Georg Faust agregam-se, na Alemanha do século XVI, características bastante peculiares de homens como Agrippa von Nettesheim e Paracelso, ambos alquimistas e seus contemporâneos, gerando o substrato lendário do mito. Após a publicação do Faustbuch (1587), registro não totalmente verídico acerca das façanhas e profanidades de Georg Faust, o mito incipiente chega à Inglaterra agregando desta vez traços personais do mago elizabetano Doutor John Dee. Dessa mescla entre o mito alemão e o mago inglês nasce o Fausto literário por meio da peça escrita entre 1588 e 1589 por Chistopher Marlowe, A Trágica História do Doutor Fausto. Popularizada, a história ganha as feiras européias adaptada para o teatro de marionetes. E, foi assim nesse formato que o mito chegou ao conhecimento de Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, poeta alemão. Autor de Fausto: uma tragédia, partes I e II (1808 e 1832), Goethe foi responsável pela consolidação e universalização do mito, sendo considerado seu principal expoente. Trabalho de toda uma vida, o Fausto de Goethe foi amplamente explorado por Carl Gustav Jung, fazendo parte considerável de seus estudos sobre a psicologia arquetípica do inconsciente. É justamente essa relação arquetípica entre o mito do Doutor Fausto e o modelo weberiano de racionalidade protestante, com a religião contemporânea da opulência, o mote deste trabalho.

Obiettivo della tesi è l’esplorazione di aspetti della relazione tra consumatori eticamente orientati ed aziende, considerando molteplici manifestazioni di relazioni problematiche consumatori-impresa o dalla cui relazione scaturiscono modificazioni sociali e di mercato. Nel primo studio si è indagata la capacità trasformativa dei consumatori eticamente orientati organizzati in GAS (Gruppi di Acquisto Solidali) mediante l’engagement relazionale con le imprese. Attraverso un duplice livello di engagement, tra membri del gruppo e del gruppo con i fornitori, si determinano collaborazioni impresa-consumatori basate sui valori che spingono alla modificazione di meccanismi di mercato alternativi rispetto a quelli mainstream. Nel secondo studio si è indagata la relazione, talora problematica tra consumatori-cittadini etici e non nei confronti di business sostenibili, nel caso specifico la produzione di energia da biomassa. Nonostante il business sia considerato sostenibile, la relazione dei consumatori etici con tali business può risultare non lineare e generare comportamenti positivi o negativi dei consumatori-cittadini nei confronti della fonte energetica. Infine, adottando la prospettiva dell’impresa, si è esplorato come business sostenibili, nel caso specifico setting di ricerca sono i servizi di car sharing, sono in grado di modificare atteggiamenti e comportamenti degli utenti attraverso l’uso del servizio. / The dissertation aims at exploring multifaceted aspects of ethical consumers-organization relationships. It takes into consideration multiple manifestations of issues aroused by the relationship and the market transformations lead by said relationships. The first study explores the potential of collective ethical consumers grouped in Solidarity Purchasing Groups (GAS) engaged with organizations to cooperate in order to affect market mechanisms and determine ethical transformations. A collaboration enhanced at switching mainstream market mechanisms towards improving sustainability values based markets is established between the ethical consumers groups and producers. On the second study a questionable ethical and non ethical consumers relationship with sustainable businesses, specifically biomass energy producers, has been taken into consideration. Though being sustainable, the consumer-citizen relationship with the firm could lead both to positive and negative behaviours. The last research, stemming from a car sharing organization’s perspective, explores the potential of a sustainable business model to affect and modify towards sustainability features consumers’ attitudes and behaviours through the use of sustainable business model as the car sharing services.