Traditional African dress is a wide subject area. This study focuses on the influences of art forms such as fashion design on contemporary architectural design. There is past historic influence that can be identified in creating an identity for contemporary clothing and architectural design. Studying South African traditional clothing and architecture will inform the design for the Durban Institute of Fashion. The historic focus on dress has been limited to that of traditional South African origins and evolutions. This study will seek to identify the traditional aesthetics that were used in the history of dress and architecture whose details will be studied to explore the identity that the aesthetics present. The South African cultures studied include the Zulu, Tswana, Ndebele, Swazi, South Sotho, Xhosa and Cape Dutch. African traditional architecture is the main focus of this project. This study will seek to determine the relevance of African methods for a new architectural approach in South African architecture. The study of traditional building decorations will show how the aesthetics are transferred to architecture to express identity. To support this, a study of building technology and culture has been included. A review of contemporary architecture in South Africa studies and observes how the inclusion of tradition African architecture and decoration can address current issues. The link between studying clothing fashion and this architectural project will be achieved by addressing traditional dress, contemporary fashion designs and African identity. This will include an understanding of traditional African influences on dress from historic times to the present day. The cross-cultural influence focuses only on the western immigrants’ influence. The aim of this document is to obtain from the above an informed approach to the design expressing African identity for the Durban Institute of Fashion. / Thesis (M.Arch.)-University of KwaZulu-Natal, Durban, 2008.

A fundamental change in the global and textile industries took place on 1 January 2005, when the global quantitative quotas were abolished. International retail buyers are now able to reduce the number of their international suppliers, and can act on a preference to buy from suppliers anywhere in the world, offering the cheapest price on international orders. South Africa had been experiencing growth in cheaper imports, mostly at the lower end of the market, since 1994 when the political arena in South Africa changed, resulting in a reduction of its tariffs faster than the World Trade Organisation required. The post-2005 environment has seen a rapid increase in imports into South Africa, predominantly from Asia. This has resulted in numerous South African firms in the clothing and textile industries having to reduce their labour, outsource part of their production, or close down altogether, due to their inability to compete with their Asian counterparts. One area of the clothing and textile industries in South Africa that has the potential to assist in the sustainability of these industries is the development and growth of South African design content. Relatively new to South Africa is the growth in and recognition of South African fashion designers entering the market, which has resulted in the heightened visibility and activity of numerous inter-related industries, all servicing South African fashion, such as: model agencies, hair-stylists, make-up artists, the fashion media, fashion events and private boutiques. This study explores the experiences of and problems faced by South African designers in producing garments, meeting the price demanded by consumers, and being competitive in the current context of the local market that is dominated by the major retail chains. However, as this research paper will show, numerous South African designers are managing in different ways to succeed and in so doing, have created viable and successful design operations in a very competitive industry. The participants interviewed for this study are all independent designers and successful in their own right. Some have been in the industry for many years, while others are establishing their names and brands in the marketplace. All these designers manufacture from their own atelier (studio) or factory, thereby retaining production control. As and when the need arises, some outsource part of their production to CMTs (cutmake- and-trim specialists) or home-based workers. Many of the designers sell within both the formal and informal economy, some sell their products through their own boutiques while others sell through private boutiques. A common theme of these designers' success is that they grew their business gradually, learning incrementally about the business of fashion and how to maintain control over their cash-flows while slowly growing their visibility in the market. In the interviews, the designers reflected on the importance of customer relations, the importance of Fashion Weeks for promoting their products, as well as the importance of finding reliable suppliers. A common difficulty experienced by the designers is that of finding the correct balance between creativity and commercial success. The study concludes with some recommendations for the promotion and sustainability of South African design content, such as development of co-operative ventures or small clusters of designers working together and creating economies of scale in order to wield greater influence in the value chain. Another important recommendation made is that of designers finding suitable business partners, so that while the designers focus on creative work, their partner drives the commercial and marketing arm of the operation. / Thesis (M.Dev.Studies)-University of KwaZulu-Natal, Durban, 2006

The design project presented here explores the relation between body and a garment. It is concerned simultaneously with the fundamental notion of a garment and the act of dressing. The project can be contextualized as a constructive design research since the aim does not involve analysis of the material world nor rational problem solving. Rather, the aim is to create new imaginary realities, and visualize them. As a startup method to construct a theory, workshops were set up using life size vertical action collages, in order to integrate the act of dressing with the aim to develop a new construction method. Two actors, one of them myself, were used to provide a greater diversity of perspectives and interpretations. A method of dressing which involved interlocking the body - limbs and waist - with vertically hanging textiles, was developed through the search for the holes, that constitute the infrastructure of a garment. The results are both artefacts, that visualize the new garment construction as well as a new routine of dressing through the novel method of garment construction. Dressing a body in textiles through interlocking which results in an intimate connection between body and the garment as the body reacts to the garment and vice versa. The motivation for exploring the act of dressing is an urge to reflect upon the fast evolving society of today which tends to emphasize a static relationship between body and a garment.

Orientador: Marizilda dos Santos Menezes / Banca: Roberto Alcarria do Nascimento / Banca: Hans da Nobrega Waechter / Resumo: Dentre as tendências atuais para as roupas infantis encontra-se o vestuário que pode contribuir para o desenvolvimento e aprendizado das crianças por meio da interação com suas roupas. Para que a interação criança/roupa ocorra, esse vestuário deve se apropriar dos conhecimentos do design, que auxiliam na sua construção. Desta forma, esse estudo busca investigar os princípios do design que podem ser adotados para a produção de roupas que podem auxiliar no desenvolvimento das crianças, mostrando como noções de educação podem ser incorporadas ao trajes, estudando as relações e interações entre o design, moda e a educação. O estudo aborda este vestuário sob a perspectiva do design, para assim levantar informações que possam contribuir com a criação das peças. Para tanto, foi elaborado um referencial teórico que procurou mostrar o universo infantil, a comunicação, vestuáriom e design. De acordo com os procedimentos metodológicos adotados para o trabalho, realizou-se um estudo de caso de dez escolas particulares da cidade de Bauru-sp, a fim de obter dados referentes a vivencia com crianças, sobre as preferências, atitudes e formas de raciocínio do mundo infantil. / Abstract: Among the current trends for children1s clothing that may contribute to the development and children's learning through interaction with their clothes. For child interaction/clothes from occurring, this dress is appropriate the knowledge of design, which assist in its construction. Thus, this study seeks to investigate design principles that can be adopted for production of clothing thatcan assist in the develpment of children, showing how notions of education can be incoporated into costumes, studying the relationships and interactions between design, fashion and education. The study addresses this garment from the perspective of design, so as to provide insights that could contribute to the creation of the pieces. To that end, we developed a theoretical framework that sought to show the infant universe, communication, clothing and design. According to the methodological procedures for the work, there was a case study in ten private schools in Bauru-sp in order to obtain data on experiences with children about their preferences, attitudes and ways of reasoning child's world. / Mestre

O Design, inserido na complexidade do atual ambiente social, cultural, produtivo e mercadológico se apresenta como uma atividade complexa, o que exige o estudo de estratégias de inovação direcionadas a resolução de problemas de projeto, aplicáveis ao Design de Moda. Nesse sentido, o presente estudo propõe a apresentação de um framework para implementação de estratégias de inovação pelo Design no processo de desenvolvimento de produtos de moda em empresas de confecção do vestuário, valendo-se da abordagem teórico-metodológica de Design Estratégico. Frente a essa proposta de estudo, a pesquisa foi desenvolvida em três fases sistêmicas: Epistemologia do Projeto, Praxiologia do Projeto e Pedagogia do Projeto. A primeira fase compreendeu a realização de uma Pesquisa Bibliográfica sobre o tema com o objetivo de refletir sobre a natureza complexa da atividade de Design sob a perspectiva da cultura de projeto, trazendo algumas abordagens conceituais e metodológicas em Design Estratégico e Design de Moda. A segunda fase compreendeu a realização de uma Pesquisa de Campo e de um Estudo de Caso com o objetivo identificar as práxis de Design adotadas em empresas de confecção do vestuário vinculadas ao Arranjo Produtivo Local Têxtil e do Vestuário (APL Polovest), localizado na região do Alto Uruguai Gaúcho. Inicialmente, buscou-se identificar a presença e as formas de atuação do Design nestas empresas, e posteriormente, diagnosticar a função do Design no processo de desenvolvimento de produtos de moda em três empresas com potencial para implementação de estratégias de inovação pelo Design. A terceira fase compreendeu a realização de uma Pesquisa Ação com o objetivo de implementar estratégias de inovação pelo Design no processo de desenvolvimento de produtos de moda nas três empresas que participaram da fase anterior do estudo. Os resultados obtidos nestas fases da pesquisa permitiram a reflexão sobre a teoria e a prática em Design de Moda, possibilitando a configuração de um framework para orientar a implementação de estratégias de inovação no processo de desenvolvimento de produtos de moda em empresas de confecção do vestuário. O framework propõe a construção de uma nova cultura de projeto nestas empresas, capitalizando um conjunto de conhecimentos em torno da ação projetual, a fim de direcionar à identificação, à análise e a resolução de problemas de projeto, inseridos na complexidade da atividade de Design. Portanto, espera-se que a aplicação do framework possa indicar oportunidades de inovação projetual, tornando estas empresas mais competitivas por meio de suas ofertas, com vistas ao fortalecimento do setor do vestuário na região do Alto Uruguai Gaúcho. / Design, inserted in the complexity of the current social, cultural, productive and market environment, represents a complex activity, requiring the study of innovation strategies directed to solving project problems, applicable to Fashion Design. In this regard, the present study proposes a Design framework for implementing innovation strategies in the development of fashion products in apparel manufacturing companies, drawing on the theoretical-methodological approach of Strategic Design. Given this study’s proposal, research was developed in three systemic phases: Project Epistemology, Project Praxeology and Project Pedagogy. The first phase involved a literature review on the theme, which contemplated the complex nature of the Design activity from a project culture perspective, conveying some conceptual and methodological approaches from Strategic and Fashion Design. The second phase involved a Field Survey and a Case Study, with the goal of identifying the Design praxis adopted by apparel manufacturing companies linked to the Local Textile and Clothing Productive Arrangement (APL Polovest), located in the Alto Uruguai Gaúcho region, southern Brazil. Initially, we sought to identify the presence and proceedings of Design in these companies and, later, to establish the role of Design in the process of fashion products development in three companies, selected for their potential to implement innovation strategies through Design. The third phase involved the execution of an Action Research to implement innovation strategies through Design in the process of developing fashion products in the companies from the previous phase. Results obtained in these research phases supported a critical reflection on Fashion Design theory and practice, as well as the configuration of a framework to guide the implementation of Design innovation strategies in the process of developing fashion products in apparel manufacturing companies. The framework proposes the construction of a novel project culture in these companies, using a set of knowledge capitalized around the project action, guiding the identification, analysis and resolution of project problems inserted into the Design action complexity. Therefore, we may expect the implementation of this framework to reveal opportunities for project innovation, making these companies more competitive through their offerings, with focus on the strengthening of the clothing sector in the Alto Uruguai Gaúcho region.

O design geralmente está associado ao fator estético e funcional dos produtos. Porém, desde a década de 90 este conceito tem mudado e o significado deste termo tornou-se mais abrangente. Atualmente, esta palavra associa-se a fatores estratégicos nas organizações. O objetivo da pesquisa visa estudar a inserção da gestão do design no processo de desenvolvimento de produtos de empresas de confecção de Araranguá. O referencial teórico desta pesquisa mostra que nas grades curriculares das faculdades de design ainda não se enfatiza suficientemente a gestão nos cursos da área, impossibilitando que os designers desenvolvam habilidades gerenciais. Sobretudo, o presente trabalho visa analisar como as empresas de confecção de Araranguá, no Estado de Santa Catarina, inserem o design em seus processos. A análise foi realizada através de uma comparação com o Modelo de Gestão de Design apresentado pelas autoras Bruce; Cooper e Vasquez (1999) como elemento norteador desta pesquisa. O estudo de caso englobou cinco empresas desenvolvedoras de produtos de moda cuja análise dos dados qualitativos resultou em sugestões de melhorias para cada empresa estudada. / The design factor is usually associated with aesthetic and functional products. However, since the 90's this concept has changed and the meaning of this term has become more embrasing. Currently, this word is associated with strategic factors in organizations. The objective of the research aims to study the inclusion of design management in the process of product development companies making Araranguá. The theoretical framework of this research shows that in the curriculum of the schools of design still is not enough emphas is on management courses in this area, becoming impossible for designers to develop management skills. Above all, this reserach also aims to analyze how fashion industries in Araranguá, Santa Catarina State, use design. The analysis is performed through a comparison with the Management Model of Design presented by the authors, Bruce; Cooper e Vasquez (1999) as a guide element of this research. The case study comprised five companies that develop fashion products whose qualitative data analysis resulted in suggestions for improvements for each company studied.

This thesis discusses how British Quaker women negotiated relinquishing their religiously prescribed Plain dress from 1860 to 1914 in the context of developments in Quaker feminine identity. This thesis approaches its subjects by examining the primary source of surviving Quaker garments in British dress collections. These items provide the basis from which research methodologies and the personal narratives of Quaker women and their case studies are developed. Surviving garments, alongside historical letters, diaries, religious texts, department store catalogues, photographs and period dress illustrations are analysed in order to understand how women Quakers practised their religion and organised their public appearance through dress during this period. The original quality of this research is the outcome of an interdisciplinary approach. No other research project in the international dress history or religious history fields has discussed and critically considered the identity of British Quaker women through an analysis of their surviving clothing between 1860 and 1914. This aspect of British social history and therefore British identity has until now remained unexplored and unacknowledged. By 1860 Quakerism had undergone extreme doctrinal upheaval, which had led to the abandonment of those rules which enforced Plainness of speech and apparel that same year. Even prior to 1860, this thesis reveals that some women were incorporating fashion into their religious Plain dress, by using fashionable silhouettes and high-quality fabrics albeit eschewing bright colours and ornamentation. After 1860 however, male and female Quakers had complete individual freedom of choice in their clothing. During this period of religious turmoil, female Victorian Quakers vocalised a range of opinions on women's emancipation, education and welfare, on their role within the religious society and their opinions concerning dress through published correspondence in Quaker journals. This thesis identifies a variety of views concerning dress between 1860 and 1914, as Quaker women negotiated their individual freedom of choice in attire in a ternary manner. Moreover, this thesis proves that this ternary interpretation was acknowledged by Quakers themselves and discussed within Quaker journals in the 1860-1914 period. Quakers of the period identified these ternary interpretations as ascetic, moderate and fashionable. This thesis proposes a new set of classifying terms, Non-Adaptive, Semi-Adaptive and Fully-Adaptive, in reflection of the extent to which Quaker women adapted their religious clothing to incorporate fashion alongside their differing interpretations of Quaker belief. Four case studies illustrate further these three adaptive interpretations, and show how individual Quaker women chose to present themselves to their religious community and wider society.

Esta dissertação tem como objeto de estudo os processos de transferência de imagens para substratos têxteis destinados à confecção de roupas de moda e vestuário sob enfoque ambiental. Hoje a moda é uma poderosa indutora de consumo, sendo a estampa um de seus mais importantes recursos. A etapa de beneficiamento têxtil – chamada de estamparia – consome grandes volumes de recursos naturais e de produtos químicos nocivos ao meio ambiente e à saúde do prestador de serviço. Nesse cenário, analisam-se os impactos ambientais através das principais entradas de matéria-prima – água, produto químico e energia – e saídas – resíduos e efluentes – provenientes dos processos de estamparia mais usados atualmente na indústria têxtil brasileira: serigrafia, impressão digital por sublimação e impressão digital a jato de tinta, nos formatos localizado e corrido. O estudo visa obter um indicativo ambiental dos processos de transferência de desenho para superfície têxtil de produtos de moda. Os resultados auxiliam designers e empresários na escolha de métodos de impressão sobre tecidos para produzirem artigos de moda alinhados aos conceitos do desenvolvimento sustentável. Para tanto, realizou-se pesquisa de natureza qualitativa aplicada, com métodos de caráter exploratório, pesquisa bibliográfica, documental e eletrônica, e por observação in loco, através de visitas técnicas às empresas. Como instrumento de sistematização dos dados coletados desenvolveu-se uma ferramenta baseada em aspectos selecionados da normativa de padronização ISO 14040 − International Organization for Standardization − e da ferramenta Sustainability Design Orienting Toolkit – SDO −, de Vezzoli (2010), que orienta o processo de design para soluções sustentáveis. Como resultado, expõem-se os métodos de impressão menos impactantes na saúde do trabalhador e no meio ambiente, evidenciando que certas etapas de processos de estamparia têxtil, pensadas sob o viés ecológico, fazem parte da realidade de empresas de médio e grande porte, embora se encontrem distantes da realidade das micro e pequenas empresas. A inserção de ações de sustentabilidade nas etapas dos processos de estamparia tem potencial a ser explorado, além de ser de grande valia na busca pelo consumo de roupas de moda de cunho ético. / This dissertation focus on the processes of image transference to textile substrates destined to fashion clothing production under environmental focus. Nowadays fashion is a powerful inducing consumption and patterns are one of its most important resources. The textile-processing step – called stamping – consume large amounts of natural resources and chemicals harmful to the environment and health of the service provider. In this scenario, the environmental impacts are analyzed through the main entrances of raw material – water, chemical and energy – and outputs – waste and effluents – from the most usual printing processes currently in the Brazilian textile industry: silkscreen, dye-sublimation printing and digital ink jet printing, located in and run formats. The study aims to obtain an environmental indicative of the design transfer processes for textile surface fashion products. The results help designers and entrepreneurs to choose tissue-printing methods to produce fashion items aligned with the concepts of sustainable development. Thus, there was qualitative applied research, with exploratory methods, bibliographical, documentary and electronic research and on-site observation, through technical visits to companies. As the collected data systematization instrument it was developed a tool based on selected aspects of the standardization of rules ISO 14040 – International Organization for Standardization – and the Design and Sustainability Orienting Toolkit – SDO – of Vezzoli (2010) that guides the design process for sustainable solutions. As results, printing methods with less impact on the workers health and the environment are shown, demonstrating that certain stages of textile printing process analyzed from an ecological bias are reality of medium and large companies, but far from the reality of micro and small businesses. The inclusion of sustainable initiatives in the stages of printing processes has potential to be explored, as well as being of great value for ethical fashion consumption.

O Design, inserido na complexidade do atual ambiente social, cultural, produtivo e mercadológico se apresenta como uma atividade complexa, o que exige o estudo de estratégias de inovação direcionadas a resolução de problemas de projeto, aplicáveis ao Design de Moda. Nesse sentido, o presente estudo propõe a apresentação de um framework para implementação de estratégias de inovação pelo Design no processo de desenvolvimento de produtos de moda em empresas de confecção do vestuário, valendo-se da abordagem teórico-metodológica de Design Estratégico. Frente a essa proposta de estudo, a pesquisa foi desenvolvida em três fases sistêmicas: Epistemologia do Projeto, Praxiologia do Projeto e Pedagogia do Projeto. A primeira fase compreendeu a realização de uma Pesquisa Bibliográfica sobre o tema com o objetivo de refletir sobre a natureza complexa da atividade de Design sob a perspectiva da cultura de projeto, trazendo algumas abordagens conceituais e metodológicas em Design Estratégico e Design de Moda. A segunda fase compreendeu a realização de uma Pesquisa de Campo e de um Estudo de Caso com o objetivo identificar as práxis de Design adotadas em empresas de confecção do vestuário vinculadas ao Arranjo Produtivo Local Têxtil e do Vestuário (APL Polovest), localizado na região do Alto Uruguai Gaúcho. Inicialmente, buscou-se identificar a presença e as formas de atuação do Design nestas empresas, e posteriormente, diagnosticar a função do Design no processo de desenvolvimento de produtos de moda em três empresas com potencial para implementação de estratégias de inovação pelo Design. A terceira fase compreendeu a realização de uma Pesquisa Ação com o objetivo de implementar estratégias de inovação pelo Design no processo de desenvolvimento de produtos de moda nas três empresas que participaram da fase anterior do estudo. Os resultados obtidos nestas fases da pesquisa permitiram a reflexão sobre a teoria e a prática em Design de Moda, possibilitando a configuração de um framework para orientar a implementação de estratégias de inovação no processo de desenvolvimento de produtos de moda em empresas de confecção do vestuário. O framework propõe a construção de uma nova cultura de projeto nestas empresas, capitalizando um conjunto de conhecimentos em torno da ação projetual, a fim de direcionar à identificação, à análise e a resolução de problemas de projeto, inseridos na complexidade da atividade de Design. Portanto, espera-se que a aplicação do framework possa indicar oportunidades de inovação projetual, tornando estas empresas mais competitivas por meio de suas ofertas, com vistas ao fortalecimento do setor do vestuário na região do Alto Uruguai Gaúcho. / Design, inserted in the complexity of the current social, cultural, productive and market environment, represents a complex activity, requiring the study of innovation strategies directed to solving project problems, applicable to Fashion Design. In this regard, the present study proposes a Design framework for implementing innovation strategies in the development of fashion products in apparel manufacturing companies, drawing on the theoretical-methodological approach of Strategic Design. Given this study’s proposal, research was developed in three systemic phases: Project Epistemology, Project Praxeology and Project Pedagogy. The first phase involved a literature review on the theme, which contemplated the complex nature of the Design activity from a project culture perspective, conveying some conceptual and methodological approaches from Strategic and Fashion Design. The second phase involved a Field Survey and a Case Study, with the goal of identifying the Design praxis adopted by apparel manufacturing companies linked to the Local Textile and Clothing Productive Arrangement (APL Polovest), located in the Alto Uruguai Gaúcho region, southern Brazil. Initially, we sought to identify the presence and proceedings of Design in these companies and, later, to establish the role of Design in the process of fashion products development in three companies, selected for their potential to implement innovation strategies through Design. The third phase involved the execution of an Action Research to implement innovation strategies through Design in the process of developing fashion products in the companies from the previous phase. Results obtained in these research phases supported a critical reflection on Fashion Design theory and practice, as well as the configuration of a framework to guide the implementation of Design innovation strategies in the process of developing fashion products in apparel manufacturing companies. The framework proposes the construction of a novel project culture in these companies, using a set of knowledge capitalized around the project action, guiding the identification, analysis and resolution of project problems inserted into the Design action complexity. Therefore, we may expect the implementation of this framework to reveal opportunities for project innovation, making these companies more competitive through their offerings, with focus on the strengthening of the clothing sector in the Alto Uruguai Gaúcho region.

O design geralmente está associado ao fator estético e funcional dos produtos. Porém, desde a década de 90 este conceito tem mudado e o significado deste termo tornou-se mais abrangente. Atualmente, esta palavra associa-se a fatores estratégicos nas organizações. O objetivo da pesquisa visa estudar a inserção da gestão do design no processo de desenvolvimento de produtos de empresas de confecção de Araranguá. O referencial teórico desta pesquisa mostra que nas grades curriculares das faculdades de design ainda não se enfatiza suficientemente a gestão nos cursos da área, impossibilitando que os designers desenvolvam habilidades gerenciais. Sobretudo, o presente trabalho visa analisar como as empresas de confecção de Araranguá, no Estado de Santa Catarina, inserem o design em seus processos. A análise foi realizada através de uma comparação com o Modelo de Gestão de Design apresentado pelas autoras Bruce; Cooper e Vasquez (1999) como elemento norteador desta pesquisa. O estudo de caso englobou cinco empresas desenvolvedoras de produtos de moda cuja análise dos dados qualitativos resultou em sugestões de melhorias para cada empresa estudada. / The design factor is usually associated with aesthetic and functional products. However, since the 90's this concept has changed and the meaning of this term has become more embrasing. Currently, this word is associated with strategic factors in organizations. The objective of the research aims to study the inclusion of design management in the process of product development companies making Araranguá. The theoretical framework of this research shows that in the curriculum of the schools of design still is not enough emphas is on management courses in this area, becoming impossible for designers to develop management skills. Above all, this reserach also aims to analyze how fashion industries in Araranguá, Santa Catarina State, use design. The analysis is performed through a comparison with the Management Model of Design presented by the authors, Bruce; Cooper e Vasquez (1999) as a guide element of this research. The case study comprised five companies that develop fashion products whose qualitative data analysis resulted in suggestions for improvements for each company studied.