This degree work explores the possibilities of illusory print expressions in fashion design, through the layeringand gathering of opaque and transparent garments. The three-dimensional illusion, in the silhouettes, createan interesting relationship between multiple layering of garment and print. In combination they expressdepth, movement and deception on the human body resulting in an interesting effect that creates an opticalillusion. The discovery of illusionary effect is a result of multiple investigations between diverse prints invarious materials gathered in layers. Depending on which angle the viewer look, different visual illusionsappear and activates the feeling of movement and three-dimensional illusion on the human body. The effectof utilizing different tactility surfaces in the concept of layering is a new visual expression in dressing. Theoutcome should be seen as a motivation to explore and translate things around us by transforming the worldinto a print and decorate it on the body in multiple layers and colors.

The purpose of this research was to evaluate the quality of design, materials, construction, appearance, and performance of mens 100% cotton jersey knit t-shirts from three retail categories: mass merchant, fast fashion, and better. These retail categories were represented by brands Fruit of the Loom, H&M, and Brooks Brothers, respectively. A convenience sample was comprised of 78 t-shirts. 13 white and 13 navy t-shirts from each brand were used for testing according to ASTM and AATCC standards and specifications. Evaluations and measurements were conducted before washing, and after one, five, ten, and twenty laundry cycles. The t-shirts were evaluated for fabric weight, fabric count, color change, whiteness change, crocking, smoothness appearance, bursting strength, pilling, dimensional stability, and skewness. The navy t-shirts in the ‘better’ retail category met five out of the six requirements specified by the ASTM standard. However, the navy t-shirts in the ‘fast fashion’ category met four out of five met by the ‘better’ category. In conclusion, the decision to purchase a t-shirt from these retail categories may depend on consumer expectations.

The interest of this work is found in the potential ways of constructinggarments and how form can be explored within that field.This work explores how one can use draping as a construction methodapplied on garments to change the traditional shape and to create new formand silhouettes. The possibility to create form by using two depending components is thefoundation and aim of this collection. It will embrace different qualities inmaterials and challenge traditional garments and the view on how we usuallyand suppose to wear these garments. Garments are dependent mostly on the body of the wearer in first hand, onecould say that this work challenges that order when the two pieces aredeveloped being dependent on each other in first hand. Through relationship of fastening and uniting materials I will explore thepossibilities within form and volume and push the expression within thebasic forms within a traditional wardrobe. My aim is to further investigate the possibilities within womens wear bylooking at material, color and silhouette through a deconstructed way ofdraping. A collection of seven outfits is the result of this work. The outfits willchallenge the field of construction and how we traditionally make garments.The shapes and expression will be based on the interaction between garmentsand the materials.

Just as the surrealistic movement challenged our perception of reality, the present work applies surrealistic methods to challenge our preconceived hierarchies between body, dress, and accessory. Adding to past surrealistic work in fashion design, the present work does not only strive to create surrealistic expressions, but to enhance the creative process through surrealistic methods. Three surrealistic methods were tested: Entopic Graphomani, Frottage, and Exquisite Corpse. The methods ability to challenge hierarchies between body, dress, and accessory was assessed through their ability to result in an element of surprise. For the present work, Exquisite Corpse had the greatest potential. By using participant observation and an adapted version of Exquisite Corpse seven looks were developed. The present work concludes that the surrealistic methods can by used not only to develop surrealistic expressions, but also to enhance the creative process within fashion design.

Submitted by Rafael Santana (rafael.silvasantana@ufpe.br) on 2017-07-17T18:07:37Z No. of bitstreams: 2 license_rdf: 811 bytes, checksum: e39d27027a6cc9cb039ad269a5db8e34 (MD5) Dissert_GabrielaNakayama-BC.pdf: 1142106 bytes, checksum: 05e14be3f2549f59152b14cf743178b1 (MD5) / Made available in DSpace on 2017-07-17T18:07:37Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 2 license_rdf: 811 bytes, checksum: e39d27027a6cc9cb039ad269a5db8e34 (MD5) Dissert_GabrielaNakayama-BC.pdf: 1142106 bytes, checksum: 05e14be3f2549f59152b14cf743178b1 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2016-07-22 / CAPES / O design de moda explicita grande lacuna no que tange o acesso para pessoas com deficiência e/ou mobilidade reduzida. Além das questões de inclusão social, tem-se um cenário mercadológico carente no que diz respeito ao entendimento e atendimento de necessidades específicas desse público. Partindo do ideal do vestuário como uma extensão do próprio corpo é imprescindível a compreensão das demandas de seu usuário consumidor como elemento norteador no desenvolvimento de produtos. Levantam-se então questionamentos sobre o aporte projetual e metodológico, bem como seus entraves, presentes na formação do designer de moda. Em prol da compreensão desses contextos, a revisão literária pautou-se nas perspectivas relevantes sobre a deficiência e a mobilidade reduzida, a ergonomia, a representação do corpo no contemporâneo e o design de moda em suas características práticas e comunicacionais, bem como seu ensino no Brasil. A investigação buscou traçar um panorama que sustente a viabilidade do objetivo da pesquisa, a elaboração de ferramentas metodológicas que contribuam no processo de desenvolvimento de produtos de moda para pessoas com algum tipo de mobilidade reduzida. Amparando o embasamento teórico, um estudo analítico foi o aporte metodológico, abordando métodos das áreas de projeto, de design e da moda, além de referenciais da ergonomia, visando um entendimento macro dos processos projetuais. A compreensão das especificações projetuais necessárias para um desenvolvimento que englobe usuários com mobilidades reduzidas, focando na usabilidade e no conforto, resultou no delineamento de diretrizes projetuais que potencializam a otimização do processo de desenvolvimento de produtos de vestuário, visando a inclusão e a acessibilidade de consumidores com mobilidade reduzida, primordialmente no âmbito didático da moda. A ferramenta, além de proporcionar uma moda mais inclusiva, traz como resultados finais uma abordagem ergonômica e voltado ao conforto e, ainda que direcionada à mobilidade reduzida, denota uma flexibilidade projetual, permitindo sua aplicação para diferentes públicos findando em um produto coerente com questões de conforto e usabilidade. / The fashion design shows inssufiency regarding access for people with disabilities and / or reduced mobility. In addition to the issues of social inclusion, there is a gap in market scenario regarding understanding and meeting the needs of this audience. From the idea that clothing is as an extension of the own body, it is essential to understand the demands of their consumers as a guiding element in product development. Considering that, issues arise about project and methodological support, as well as their obstacles, present in fashion design bachelor’s degree graduations. In order to understand these contexts, the literature review was based on the relevant perspectives on disability and reduced mobility, ergonomics, the body representation in contemporary and fashion design, in their practices and communication features, as well as its teaching in Brazil. The study aimed to provide an overview to sustain the viability of the objective of the research, the development of methodological tools to contribute in the process of desinging fashion products for people with some kind of reduced mobility. Supporting the theoretical basis, an analytical study was the methodological approach, addressing methods of project, design and fashion fields, and ergonomics references, aiming at a macro understanding of the processes of the project. Understanding the project specifications required for a development that encompasses users with reduced mobility, focusing on usability and comfort, it resulted in the design of projectual guidelines that enhance and optimize the development of apparel products process, increasing inclusion and accessibility of consumers with reduced mobility, specially in the context of fashion design teaching. The tool, in addition to provide an inclusive fashion scenario, brings as a final result an ergonomic approach aiming confort and, although directed to reduced mobility, denotes a projetual flexibility, allowing its application to different audiences resulting in a coherent product in the matters of comfort and usability.

This work starts with a simple question of ; Why not to draw the garment directly on the body since this is the way it will inevitably be worn? Working through steps; wrapping into a fabric and drawing the garment on the body to reveal lines for constructing that is directly based on the body, this work shows an alternative way of constructing a garment; the result that is presented can be seen as a base for further development within the field this method has explored. Further, the work challenges the current norms in archetypical garments with the intention to redefine their expression, where the methods aim is to broaden the field of garment construction, investigating the gap between construction lines and material expectations. The method Write Drunk/ Edit Sober is both discovering the fundamentals of garment construction and questioning the systematic interpretations we place on a garments connection to materials.

No description available.

Hace ya varios años Gamarra dejó de ser ese lugar comercial que producía tantas ventas a lo largo del año. Debido a la fuerte competencia del mercado y la falta de valor agregado en sus productos, el Cluster Textil se encuentra en una grave crisis. El centro de enseñanza y difusión de la Moda propone espacios para estas nuevas necesidades de la zona. No solo se quiere capacitar a sus empleados para que puedan competir en la industria, si no también se busca dotar a Gamarra de espacios que les permitan difundir sus productos y sobretodo sus marcas. El partido arquitectónico nació por el análisis del entorno, sus aspectos climáticos, accesibilidad y condiciones ambientales. Se buscó en este que se creen espacios integradores los cuales sirvan de conexión entre Gamarra y el Centro, repotenciando a ambos. El centro de enseñanza y difusión de la moda busca convertir a Gamarra en el Nuevo centro de la Moda metropolitano mediante la capacitación de sus integrantes y la difusión de sus marcas en espacios adecuados y de calidad. / For many years now, Gamarra has ceased to be the go-to commercial destination, with substantial sales and margins throughout the year. Due to strong market competition and lack of added value in its products, the Textile Cluster is currently in a serious crisis. The Fashion Diffusion and Education Center proposes spaces for the new needs in the area. Not only does it want to train its entrepreneurs, so that they can compete in the industry, but also to provide Gamarra with spaces that allow them to diffuse their products and all their brands. The architectural concept was born from an analysis of the area, its climatic aspects, accessibility and environmental conditions. The concept aims for the creation of integrated spaces between Gamarra and the Center that serve as a connection and empower both. The Fashion Promulgation and Education Center seeks to transform Gamarra into the new Metropolitan Fashion Center, by training its entrepreneurs and spreading its brands through quality. / Trabajo de suficiencia profesional

El presente trabajo de investigación tiene como objetivo general diseñar una colección de moda a partir del estudio teórico y visual del pop art estadounidense desarrollado en la década de los sesenta. Esta investigación de tipo cualitativa recolectó información de tesis, libros y artículos con el fin de cumplir con el objetivo general. Al investigar la bibliografía se identificó que la llegada del pop art a Estados Unidos en la década de los sesenta, se dio cuando este país atravesaba cambios en cuanto al sector social, económico y político regido por el consumismo y la tecnología. Estos cambios se vieron plasmados en esta disciplina, ya que los artistas innovaron en el uso de técnicas, símbolos representados y el uso de color en las principales obras. Estas características desarrollan a el pop art como un tema de valor para plasmar en una colección de moda; además, la fusión de arte y moda se ha desarrollado desde hace años a través de grandes diseñadores de modas, que buscan reflejar las características de estos mediante la indumentaria. De esta manera, para el presente trabajo se espera comprender la realidad de este contexto, las características y temas de este arte para usar como recurso visual en la colección de moda. Posteriormente, se realizará un proceso creativo para identificar las características del tema a través de recursos visuales. Asimismo, se emplearán referentes de diseño, definiciones elementales y descripción del usuario para definir al usuario de esta colección, la cual hará énfasis en el uso de estampados, gráficas y color en sus diseños. / The present research work has the general objective of designing a fashion collection based on the theoretical and visual study of American pop art developed in the sixties. This qualitative research collected information from theses, books, and articles in order to meet the general objective. When investigating the bibliography, it was identified that the arrival of pop art to the United States in the sixties, occurred when this country was going through changes in terms of the social, economic, and political sector governed by consumerism and technology. These changes were reflected in this discipline, since the artists innovated in the use of techniques, represented symbols and the use of color in the main works. These characteristics develop a pop art as a subject of value to capture in a fashion collection; Furthermore, the fusion of art and fashion has been developed for years through great fashion designers, who seek to reflect their characteristics through clothing. In this way, for the present work it is expected to understand the reality of this context, the characteristics, and themes of this art to use as a visual resource in the fashion collection. Subsequently, a creative process will be executed to identify the characteristics of the subject through visual resources. Likewise, design references, elementary definitions and user description will be used to define the user of this collection, which will emphasize the use of patterns, graphics, and color in their designs. / Trabajo de investigación

This work is a proposal for an alternative approach to working with print, making the printing process a key element within designing. It is an investigation into flat garment construction between fabric layers, as this enables for the printing to be used in place of sewing. Additionally, working with multiple textile layers connects with the reference of the peeling wallpaper, which is used as a base for material and form developments. The aim of the work is to develop a more holistic approach and new expressions in garment-making in relation to the application of printing processes within textile layers. The main objective is to present a new perspective of the relationship between garment pattern and print, bringing the later forward. Not only does the surface print, through the interaction of colour and texture provide an important element in terms of creating expression, but it additionally acts as a construction element. Moreover, by using the process of printing to create form the element of print becomes integrated into the process of garment-making.