The material culture of historic theatre costume offers a vital resource for the fields of dress and theatre history that has yet to be fully recognised. This thesis unites approaches from both disciplines to create a specific methodology for the study of theatre costume founded upon the examination and assessment of such garments. It argues that theatre costume represents a separate and specific category of clothing and theatrical ephemera. Celebrated actress Ellen Terry (1847-1928), an individual highly attuned to the significance of dress as an expression of identity, is used as a case study to demonstrate the validity of this new methodology. Adopting an object-based and material culture approach, the thesis engages with the visual and physical evidence about performance and design that can be gathered from Terry’s extant theatre costumes. It also highlights crucial information about Terry’s dress and its public reception gleaned from additional sources such as photographs; paintings; letters; reviews, and within Terry’s papers and books. This thesis represents the first full investigation of Terry’s personal and theatrical wardrobe, and is the first study to carry out a close analysis of the actress’s surviving garments. This analysis establishes the factors fundamental to the interpretation and study of theatre costume: the significance of social, artistic and historic context; parallels and contrasts between on and off-stage dress; the collaborative process of design and making; the function of costume as both performance object, and expression of ‘identity’; the issue of multiple and complex ‘biographies’; and the crucial evidence offered from material culture sources, most importantly, surviving costumes. Chapter 1 outlines existing methodologies and the cross disciplinary nature of the thesis; Chapter 2 reviews existing literature and proposes a new methodology; 3 provides the context for Terry's professional career; 4 develops the methodology and analyses extant garments. 5 and 6 relate the methodology to ideas of self-fashioning and biography. The thesis establishes Terry as an exceptional figure in British theatre and society who took an active role in fashioning her public and private image, both during her life, and after her death. The analysis of Terry’s wardrobe confirms the status of theatre costumes as unique garments, which represent a key source for design, dress and theatre historians. This detailed case study demonstrates that the methodology presented can be employed in the study of other figures, theatres and periods, and opens up a new and productive direction for future research.

O mercado global do vestuário, paulatinamente, se organiza no sentido de separar, geograficamente, a produção do consumo, nesse sentido marcas mundialmente reconhecidas e grandes empresas varejistas se expandiram através dos benefícios da economia em escala. Isso faz com que várias micro e pequenas empresas do setor tenham que repensar suas identidades de marca. Esta pesquisa mostra-se como uma tentativa de entender o papel do design na construção de marca, assim como caracterizar a percepção de microempresários do setor de moda de Porto Alegre, a respeito do tema. Procura-se contribuir com o desenvolvimento de micromarcas, as quais atuam em um território específico e, na maioria das vezes, não são conhecidas para além da região em que operam. A fim de se chegar a um resultado satisfatório, três objetivos específicos são traçados: mostrar a lógica de funcionamento da cadeia global do vestuário; compreender a participação do design na construção de marca; e por fim encontrar maneiras de verificar a percepção de microempresários sobre o papel do design na construção de marca, através de entrevistas semiestruturadas. Os resultados apontam para a consciência, entre os entrevistados, da importância do design na construção de marca, entretanto, a maneira como cada um percebe essa participação varia, sendo que alguns acreditam no design enquanto item fundamental na concepção de coleções e outros o concebem como um meio de expressar um estilo de vida. / The global apparel market has continuously been organized in a way as to separate production and consumption, in that sense, world renowned brands and big retailers have expanded through economies of scale. Micro and small enterprises in the area have had to rethink their own brand identities. This research is an attempt to understand the role of design in brand building, as well as what local Porto Alegre based micro-entrepreneurs in the fashion business think about it. The purpose is to contribute towards the development of micro brands that only reach a certain geographical area and are often unknown beyond their scope of activity. In order to achieve a meaningful outcome, we have drawn three specific objectives: first, showing how the world apparel chain works, then understanding the part design plays in brand building, and finally inquiring on micro-entrepreneurs’ perception on the role of design in brand building, through semi-structured interviews. The outcome shows interviewees are aware of the importance of design in brand construction. However, the way each of them conceives of its part varies, while some believe design to be a crucial item in the creation of collections, others see it as a means to express lifestyle.

The purpose of this research is to identify the resources and capabilities utilised for brand development and internationalisation of entrepreneurial womenswear designer fashion enterprises (DFEs). Tis thesis presents an original contribution to knowledge by using the concept of dynamic capabilities as a ‘lens’ to explore the creation of brand identity in the context of the international fashion system. In the pursuit of its aim, this research defines a dynamic capability process of DFE brand development through the codifcation of elements of brand identity, recognising the infuence of co-creation experiences. Furthermore, this thesis identifies the characteristics of DFE internationalisation behaviour, defining how the processes of brand development and internationalisation are related to each other and embedded in the capabilities of the DFE. Entrepreneurial DFEs, recognised within the fashion media as ‘emerging designers’, are increasingly identified as key sectors for economic growth. These enterprises are largely wholesale, highly internationalised operations within the SME sector, strengthened and supported by a broad network. However, signifcant focus within academic literature centres on branding or internationalisation in relation to fashion retail or established luxury firms, ignoring entrepreneurial DFEs who are sources of innovation and creativity for the fashion industry. This research fills a gap in the academic literature by examining the brand development and internationalisation processes of entrepreneurial DFEs operating in the contemporary context of the global fashion industry. Using grounded theory to examine the practice of entrepreneurial DFEs based in London and New York, this research incorporates theoretical sampling to direct data gathering from semi-structured in-depth interviews, observation at London, New York and Paris fashion weeks, and analysis of websites, social media and press. Constant comparative analysis refined emerged concepts into sub-categories, properties and dimensions surrounding the core category of the ‘collection lifecycle’. The findings of this research are organised according to aggregate dimensions of brand identity elements, and a hierarchy of operational routines, dynamic capabilities and organisational learning. This research finds that for DFEs, the development of brand identity is a dynamic capability process embedded in and emergent from operational routines and capabilities. As a resource, the brand guides internationalisation. In turn, internationalisation behaviour requires interaction within the global fashion system that operates as a source for organisational learning, further adapting the DFE’s brand to align with market opportunities. In the explanation of this process, this research presents a theoretical framework and a series of eight propositions defining the product development activities, operational resources and capabilities, dynamic brand development capabilities and process of organisational learning that impacts brand identity creation and internationalisation.

Made available in DSpace on 2014-06-11T19:28:04Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 0 Previous issue date: 2006-01-31Bitstream added on 2014-06-13T20:57:41Z : No. of bitstreams: 1 souza_pm_me_bauru.pdf: 907859 bytes, checksum: b98682457254c5034fde8ac03ff92b52 (MD5) / Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior (CAPES) / A presente pesquisa verifica a eficiência da modelagem tridimensional, moulage, como instrumento de otimização do processo de desenvolvimento do produto de moda/vestuário. Para tanto, enfoca as etapas de criação e materialização nas quais a referida técnica encontra-se inserida, onde constata a dicotomia entre as áreas de criação e modelagem. Aborda as qualidades técnicas, construtivas, ergonômicas e estéticas envolvidas no projeto da modelagem do produto, enfatizando os aspectos de conforto, caimento e inovação formal. De abordagem qualitativa, tem seus dados coletados por meio de observações sistemáticas, no âmbito acadêmico, numa variedade de situações-problemas, em momentos diversos, com variadas fontes de informação - cenários criados para reproduzir, considerando as devidas proporções e especificidades - situações industriais análogas. Estabelece as seguintes linhas guias de observação: criar e materializar; materializar a criação do outro; a criação constitui-se na própria materialização. Indicadores previstos na estruturação da pesquisa - adequação dimensional, vestibilidade, inovação formal, tempo, retrabalho, consumo de matéria-prima, soluções de montagem - conduzem aos resultados, numa comparação dos dados obtidos quando a técnica da modelagem tridimensional encontra-se ou não inserida no processo de desenvolvimento do produto de moda. É constatada a eficiência da técnica no processo. / The purpose of this research is to verify the efficiency of the three-dimensional modeling, draping, as a way to achieve a better development of the fashion/clothing products. For that, it focus the creation and the materialization steps, in which the draping technique is found, where is found a dichotomy between the creation and the modeling areas. It also approaches the technical, constructive, ergonomic and esthetic qualities involved on the modeling project, emphasizing the comfort, adjustment and innovation of the shape. This qualitative research got the data collection by methodological academic observation, with a variety of problem situations, in different moments with distinctive information sources - created reproduction scenes, considering the propositions and specialties - such as industrial situations. It establishes the following observation guide: to create and materialize; to materialize the other s creation; the creation constitutes in the materialization itself. The indicators used in this research are the dimensional fitness, adjustment, innovation of the shape, time, rework, material raw, assembling solutions. They conduct to the findings, comparing obtained data when the three-dimensional modeling is found in development of the fashion/clothing products and it proves the efficiency of the technique in the process.

Made available in DSpace on 2014-06-11T19:28:33Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 0 Previous issue date: 2003-10-13Bitstream added on 2014-06-13T19:16:35Z : No. of bitstreams: 1 montemezzo_mcfs_me_bauru.pdf: 892244 bytes, checksum: 9c35a1ed16c474ae77ec4d2b4696cc3b (MD5) / Para identificar uma estruturação adequada ao processo de desenvolvimento de produtos de moda/vestuário no âmbito acadêmico, a presente pesquisa buscou fundamentos nas bases teóricas das metodologias de projeto do design, abordando a organização do processo criativo sob os parâmetros do pensamento projetual. Realizou um estudo qualitativo em ambiente acadêmico, com o propósito de constatar a relevância dos princípios projetuais de design para a estruturação do processo de criação em moda. Identificou-se que, após o contato com tais princípios, os estudantes demonstraram mudanças significativas na organização do pensamento sobre o processo de elaboração de produtos. Integrou os resultados obtidos na pesquisa do ambiente acadêmico às análises construídas na pesquisa bibliográfica, para a estruturação de uma proposta de diretrizes metodológicas para o processo projetual de design de moda na academia / To identify the correct organization to the development process of fashion products in the academic field, this research established foundation in the theoretical basis of design methodologies, broaching the organization of the creative process under the concepts of the project thoughts. A qualitative study was accomplished in the academic field on purpose to check the importance of the design principles to the organization of the creation process in fashion. It was noticed that after the contact with such principles, students demonstrated relevant changes in the thoughts organization about the creation process of products. The results obtained in the academic field research was integrated to the analysis built in the bibliographic research, in way to organize an offer of methodological directives to the fashion design in academy

Made available in DSpace on 2014-06-11T19:24:10Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 0 Previous issue date: 2011-01-20Bitstream added on 2014-06-13T18:20:20Z : No. of bitstreams: 1 pereira_lm_me_bauru.pdf: 3183611 bytes, checksum: a110fa6df8de7af1a6b5b5422b391c98 (MD5) / Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior (CAPES) / Dentre as tendências atuais para as roupas infantis encontra-se o vestuário que pode contribuir para o desenvolvimento e aprendizado das crianças por meio da interação com suas roupas. Para que a interação criança/roupa ocorra, esse vestuário deve se apropriar dos conhecimentos do design, que auxiliam na sua construção. Desta forma, esse estudo busca investigar os princípios do design que podem ser adotados para a produção de roupas que podem auxiliar no desenvolvimento das crianças, mostrando como noções de educação podem ser incorporadas ao trajes, estudando as relações e interações entre o design, moda e a educação. O estudo aborda este vestuário sob a perspectiva do design, para assim levantar informações que possam contribuir com a criação das peças. Para tanto, foi elaborado um referencial teórico que procurou mostrar o universo infantil, a comunicação, vestuáriom e design. De acordo com os procedimentos metodológicos adotados para o trabalho, realizou-se um estudo de caso de dez escolas particulares da cidade de Bauru-sp, a fim de obter dados referentes a vivencia com crianças, sobre as preferências, atitudes e formas de raciocínio do mundo infantil. / Among the current trends for children1s clothing that may contribute to the development and children's learning through interaction with their clothes. For child interaction/clothes from occurring, this dress is appropriate the knowledge of design, which assist in its construction. Thus, this study seeks to investigate design principles that can be adopted for production of clothing thatcan assist in the develpment of children, showing how notions of education can be incoporated into costumes, studying the relationships and interactions between design, fashion and education. The study addresses this garment from the perspective of design, so as to provide insights that could contribute to the creation of the pieces. To that end, we developed a theoretical framework that sought to show the infant universe, communication, clothing and design. According to the methodological procedures for the work, there was a case study in ten private schools in Bauru-sp in order to obtain data on experiences with children about their preferences, attitudes and ways of reasoning child's world.

Orientador: Ivan De Domenico Valarelli / Banca: João Candido Fernandes / Banca: Virginia Kistmann / Para identificar uma estruturação adequada ao processo de desenvolvimento de produtos de moda/vestuário no âmbito acadêmico, a presente pesquisa buscou fundamentos nas bases teóricas das metodologias de projeto do design, abordando a organização do processo criativo sob os parâmetros do pensamento projetual. Realizou um estudo qualitativo em ambiente acadêmico, com o propósito de constatar a relevância dos princípios projetuais de design para a estruturação do processo de criação em moda. Identificou-se que, após o contato com tais princípios, os estudantes demonstraram mudanças significativas na organização do pensamento sobre o processo de elaboração de produtos. Integrou os resultados obtidos na pesquisa do ambiente acadêmico às análises construídas na pesquisa bibliográfica, para a estruturação de uma proposta de diretrizes metodológicas para o processo projetual de design de moda na academia / To identify the correct organization to the development process of fashion products in the academic field, this research established foundation in the theoretical basis of design methodologies, broaching the organization of the creative process under the concepts of the project thoughts. A qualitative study was accomplished in the academic field on purpose to check the importance of the design principles to the organization of the creation process in fashion. It was noticed that after the contact with such principles, students demonstrated relevant changes in the thoughts organization about the creation process of products. The results obtained in the academic field research was integrated to the analysis built in the bibliographic research, in way to organize an offer of methodological directives to the fashion design in academy / Mestre

A indústria têxtil brasileira emprega diferentes tipos e processos de design de moda. Nesse contexto, o objetivo deste trabalho é demonstrar e analisar alguns dos seus principais tipos e processos. Desse modo, pretende-se esclarecer como esse design traz benefícios ao desenvolvimento do produto de moda; benefício que redunda num melhor aproveitamento dos aspectos financeiros e produtivos da indústria. Pretende-se ainda, apontar o uso e as aplicabilidades desses desenhos, como ferramentas que aprimoram o processo criativo e sua comunicação, ao exibir formas e materiais, combinações de cores, estampas e peças prontas, com o intuito de diminuir o tempo de criação, contribuir na finalização e comercialização do produto de moda. Para tanto, buscou-se pesquisar a literatura sobre o assunto com fundamentação teórica para a realização de uma pesquisa de campo / The Brazilian textile industry employs different types and fashion design processes. In this context, the aim of this study is to demonstrate and analyze some of the main types and processes. Thus, it is intended to clarify how this design is beneficial to the development of fashion products; benefit which results in better utilization of financial aspects and productive industry. It is also intended, to point the use and applicability of these drawings as tools that enhance the creative process and its communication, to display forms and materials, combinations of colors, patterns and finished parts, in order to decrease the time of creation, contribute to the completion and sale of the fashion product. To this end, we sought to investigate the literature on the subject with theoretical foundation for conducting a field survey

O presente trabalho aborda análises históricas das metodologias utilizadas para o ensino da modelagem do vestuário e propõe o desenvolvimento de diretrizes para este ensino. Para tanto, realiza um levantamento histórico a respeito das diversas técnicas e métodos utilizados desde a década de 1960, fazendo uma comparação entre método e período sociocultural, visando à busca de técnicas que facilitem o processo de aprendizado em discussão. A análise das principais técnicas de modelagem utilizadas ao longo do tempo, das organizações curriculares dos principais cursos de graduação de Moda, e das pesquisas com profissionais educadores da área, proporcionarão uma ampla visão do que pode ser utilizado para otimizar o processo de aprendizado e o que deve ser descartado, por não favorecer uma formação mais rápida e de melhor qualidade. Após o estudo em questão, este projeto propõe um conjunto de diretrizes que favoreça a transformação do aluno em um profissional qualificado para atuar na área de modelagem do vestuário. / This research discusses historical analysis of methodologies for pattern making teaching and proposes the development of guidelines for teaching. The study presents a historical survey about the various techniques and methods used since the 1960s, making a balance between method and socio-cultural period in order to search for techniques to facilitate the learning process under discussion. The analysis of the main pattern making techniques used over time, the curricula of leading Fashion Graduation programs, and the research with professional educators, will provide a broad overview of what can be used to optimize the learning process and what should be discarded for not favoring a faster and better training. After the study in question, this project proposes a set of guidelines that encourage the transformation of the student in a qualified professional to act in Pattern making clothing.

Orientador: Ernesto Giovanni Boccara / Tese (doutorado) - Universidade Estadual de Campinas, Instituto de Artes / Made available in DSpace on 2018-08-25T21:36:34Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Moretti_NancydePalma_D.pdf: 12909734 bytes, checksum: 86c949e921803ec5396493d43c44ee34 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2014 / Resumo: Essa tese tem como proposição a hipótese da reconstrução do corpo humano através do desenho e ilustração de moda mediado por signos. Esta visibilidade do corpo vestido no desenho para a moda é também de natureza indicial, por sugerir um corpo humano que não existe como representação fiel, por não manter sua natureza anatômica efetiva. A esta fusão constituída na representação do corpo vestido denominaremos como sendo um corpo antípoda, aquele que tem sua existência na mente do estilista ou designer de moda durante o processo criativo de sua gestação imaginativa / Abstract: This thesis is to propose the hypothesis of reconstruction of the human body through drawing and fashion illustration mediated by signs. This visibility clothed body in the drawing for fashion is also indexical nature, suggest a human body which does not exist as a faithful representation, for not keeping their actual anatomical nature. The merger constituted in this representation of the body as a dress denominate antipode body, one that has its existence in the mind of the designer or fashion designer during the creative process of his imaginative pregnancy / Doutorado / Artes Visuais / Doutora em Artes Visuais