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abstract: In the 1930s, several key fashion photographers were practicing Surrealists: Man Ray, Georges Hoyningen-Huené, Horst P. Horst, Cecil Beaton, and Erwin Blumenfeld. Each photographer explored surrealist-influenced fashion photography and drastically changed the way fashion was seen in the pages of Harper’s Bazaar and Vogue magazine. While scholars believe the assimilation of surrealist aesthetic devices in fashion photography commercialized Surrealism during the thirties, such photographic output has yet to be assessed in relation to surrealist thought and practice. This thesis argues that Ray, Hoyningen-Huené, Horst, Beaton, and Blumenfeld did not photograph fashion in the surrealist style to promote desire for the commercial product. Instead, they created new pictures that penetrated, radicalized, and even destroyed conventions of mass culture from inside the illustrated fashion magazine. / Dissertation/Thesis / Masters Thesis Art History 2018

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Idén om fotografigenren street style fashion photography är att den visar upp den vanliga människan, i vanliga kläder i en vardaglig kontext. Idén bakom fotografiet i sig går i samma linje om att visa upp det äkta, och i liknande stil skapades de sociala medieplattformen Instagram – för att publicera äkta bilder ”on-the-go”. Tidigare forskning visar dock på att fotografi, Instagram och street style fashion photography inte är lika vanligt och äkta som idéerna om dem. Fotografi handlar om att sätta sig själv i relation till världen och på så sätt skapas en typ av makt. Denna uppsats syftar till att blottlägga maktstrukturer i street style fashion photography bilder publicerade av influensers på plattformen Instagram. Metoden som används för att analysera materialet är Roland Barthes semiotiska denotation och konnotationsmodell, de fynd som hittas i analysen diskuteras därefter i relation till Pierre Bourdieus fältteori för att, på en relationell nivå, förstå hur maktstrukturerna placerar ut influenserna på det svenska modefältet online. Analysen visar att bilderna i materialet är högst uppstyrda och planerade, det konnoterar olika idéer om kommersiellt mode och kulturproducerat ”högmode”, lyxiga miljöer och ”vanliga” gator, allt detta i förhållande till Instagram estetik och vad som är vinnande visualiteter. De tre influenserna, vars bilder analyseras i studien, placeras i olika positioner på modefältet online men delar samtidigt på positionen som nykomlingar eftersom de kapital de visar upp skiljer sig mellan dem, samtidigt som strategierna för att ta sig an fältet är likande.

Esta pesquisa busca compreender as rupturas de sentidos sobre os corpos expressados nas fotografias de moda contemporâneas. Nosso olhar está lançado para a contemporaneidade, em imagens as quais acreditamos estar sob a conjuntura No Limits, momento da fotografia de moda que floresce a partir dos anos 90 e que coloca em voga a multiplicação de estilos e linguagens exercidos nessas imagens. Teoricamente, adotamos a perspectiva da Semiótica da Cultura (SC) para com a moda, propondo um olhar que vê esta moda enquanto sistema modelizante que opera códigos e dinâmicas próprios sobre a cultura. Ademais, desenvolvemos conceitos relativos à linguagem fotográfica e, por sua vez, da fotografia de moda, expondo suas estruturalidades e técnicas que engendram os textos por nós analisados. Ainda sob a perspectiva teórica, nos debruçamos sobre o corpo em um viés sociológico e também cultural, para adentrar nas especificidades das corporalidades empenhadas na moda e, consecutivamente, na fotografia de moda, delineando, então, regularidades e padronizações que nos ajudam a pensar o rumo das rupturas de sentidos. Enquanto percurso metodológico no exame e apreensão dos sentidos, operacionalizamos esses processos propondo uma trajetória de examinação e interpretação do objeto empírico, considerando a identificação de imprevisibilidades, irregularidades e descontinuidades nas construções textuais de fotografias de moda contemporâneas O processo de observação parte de acionamentos teóricos de elementos da SC, assim como da linguagem fotográfica, da moda e do corpo. Complementarmente, acionamos um esquema interpretativo dessas observações, inspirado em diferentes níveis de sentidos que se sobrepõem às imagens. As imagens de moda de No Limits e os corpos nelas expressos configuram textos e narrativas permeados por rupturas, fissuras, deslocamentos em relação à própria fotografia de moda que está sempre em movimento. Observamos, portanto, essas corporalidades da moda, no sentido de posicioná-las além dos limites, de carregar em si o excesso, de ultrapassagem dos parâmetros dos incursos que a moda instaura. / This research aims to understand the ruptures of meanings on the bodies expressed in contemporary fashion photographs. Our look is set for contemporaneity, in images that we believe to be under the No Limits juncture, a moment of fashion photography that has flourished since the 90s and which puts in vogue the multiplication of styles and languages exercised in these images. Theoretically we adopt the perspective of the Semiotics of Culture (SC) towards fashion, proposing a look that sees this fashion as a modeling system that operates codes and dynamics of culture. In addition, we develop concepts related to the photographic language and, in turn, of fashion photography, exposing its peculiarities and techniques that engender the texts analyzed by us. Still from a theoretical perspective, we focus on the body in a sociological and cultural way to enter into the specificities of the bodies engaged in fashion and consecutively in fashion photography, delineating then, regularities and standardizations that help us to think the direction of the ruptures of senses. As a methodological course in the examination and apprehension of the senses, we operate these processes by proposing a trajectory of examination and interpretation of the empirical object, considering the identification of unpredictability, irregularities and discontinuities in textual constructions of contemporary fashion photographs The process of observation starts from theoretical drives of SC elements, as well as from photographic language, fashion and the body. Complementarily we trigger an interpretative scheme of these observations inspired by different levels of meanings that overlap the images. The fashion images of No Limits and the bodies expressed in them configure texts and narratives permeated by ruptures, fissures, displacements in relation to the fashion photography itself that is always in movement. We observe, therefore, these corporalities of the fashion, in the sense of positioning them beyond the limits, of carrying in itself the excess, of overcoming the parameters of the incursion that fashion establishes.

Esta pesquisa busca compreender as rupturas de sentidos sobre os corpos expressados nas fotografias de moda contemporâneas. Nosso olhar está lançado para a contemporaneidade, em imagens as quais acreditamos estar sob a conjuntura No Limits, momento da fotografia de moda que floresce a partir dos anos 90 e que coloca em voga a multiplicação de estilos e linguagens exercidos nessas imagens. Teoricamente, adotamos a perspectiva da Semiótica da Cultura (SC) para com a moda, propondo um olhar que vê esta moda enquanto sistema modelizante que opera códigos e dinâmicas próprios sobre a cultura. Ademais, desenvolvemos conceitos relativos à linguagem fotográfica e, por sua vez, da fotografia de moda, expondo suas estruturalidades e técnicas que engendram os textos por nós analisados. Ainda sob a perspectiva teórica, nos debruçamos sobre o corpo em um viés sociológico e também cultural, para adentrar nas especificidades das corporalidades empenhadas na moda e, consecutivamente, na fotografia de moda, delineando, então, regularidades e padronizações que nos ajudam a pensar o rumo das rupturas de sentidos. Enquanto percurso metodológico no exame e apreensão dos sentidos, operacionalizamos esses processos propondo uma trajetória de examinação e interpretação do objeto empírico, considerando a identificação de imprevisibilidades, irregularidades e descontinuidades nas construções textuais de fotografias de moda contemporâneas O processo de observação parte de acionamentos teóricos de elementos da SC, assim como da linguagem fotográfica, da moda e do corpo. Complementarmente, acionamos um esquema interpretativo dessas observações, inspirado em diferentes níveis de sentidos que se sobrepõem às imagens. As imagens de moda de No Limits e os corpos nelas expressos configuram textos e narrativas permeados por rupturas, fissuras, deslocamentos em relação à própria fotografia de moda que está sempre em movimento. Observamos, portanto, essas corporalidades da moda, no sentido de posicioná-las além dos limites, de carregar em si o excesso, de ultrapassagem dos parâmetros dos incursos que a moda instaura. / This research aims to understand the ruptures of meanings on the bodies expressed in contemporary fashion photographs. Our look is set for contemporaneity, in images that we believe to be under the No Limits juncture, a moment of fashion photography that has flourished since the 90s and which puts in vogue the multiplication of styles and languages exercised in these images. Theoretically we adopt the perspective of the Semiotics of Culture (SC) towards fashion, proposing a look that sees this fashion as a modeling system that operates codes and dynamics of culture. In addition, we develop concepts related to the photographic language and, in turn, of fashion photography, exposing its peculiarities and techniques that engender the texts analyzed by us. Still from a theoretical perspective, we focus on the body in a sociological and cultural way to enter into the specificities of the bodies engaged in fashion and consecutively in fashion photography, delineating then, regularities and standardizations that help us to think the direction of the ruptures of senses. As a methodological course in the examination and apprehension of the senses, we operate these processes by proposing a trajectory of examination and interpretation of the empirical object, considering the identification of unpredictability, irregularities and discontinuities in textual constructions of contemporary fashion photographs The process of observation starts from theoretical drives of SC elements, as well as from photographic language, fashion and the body. Complementarily we trigger an interpretative scheme of these observations inspired by different levels of meanings that overlap the images. The fashion images of No Limits and the bodies expressed in them configure texts and narratives permeated by ruptures, fissures, displacements in relation to the fashion photography itself that is always in movement. We observe, therefore, these corporalities of the fashion, in the sense of positioning them beyond the limits, of carrying in itself the excess, of overcoming the parameters of the incursion that fashion establishes.

Esta pesquisa busca compreender as rupturas de sentidos sobre os corpos expressados nas fotografias de moda contemporâneas. Nosso olhar está lançado para a contemporaneidade, em imagens as quais acreditamos estar sob a conjuntura No Limits, momento da fotografia de moda que floresce a partir dos anos 90 e que coloca em voga a multiplicação de estilos e linguagens exercidos nessas imagens. Teoricamente, adotamos a perspectiva da Semiótica da Cultura (SC) para com a moda, propondo um olhar que vê esta moda enquanto sistema modelizante que opera códigos e dinâmicas próprios sobre a cultura. Ademais, desenvolvemos conceitos relativos à linguagem fotográfica e, por sua vez, da fotografia de moda, expondo suas estruturalidades e técnicas que engendram os textos por nós analisados. Ainda sob a perspectiva teórica, nos debruçamos sobre o corpo em um viés sociológico e também cultural, para adentrar nas especificidades das corporalidades empenhadas na moda e, consecutivamente, na fotografia de moda, delineando, então, regularidades e padronizações que nos ajudam a pensar o rumo das rupturas de sentidos. Enquanto percurso metodológico no exame e apreensão dos sentidos, operacionalizamos esses processos propondo uma trajetória de examinação e interpretação do objeto empírico, considerando a identificação de imprevisibilidades, irregularidades e descontinuidades nas construções textuais de fotografias de moda contemporâneas O processo de observação parte de acionamentos teóricos de elementos da SC, assim como da linguagem fotográfica, da moda e do corpo. Complementarmente, acionamos um esquema interpretativo dessas observações, inspirado em diferentes níveis de sentidos que se sobrepõem às imagens. As imagens de moda de No Limits e os corpos nelas expressos configuram textos e narrativas permeados por rupturas, fissuras, deslocamentos em relação à própria fotografia de moda que está sempre em movimento. Observamos, portanto, essas corporalidades da moda, no sentido de posicioná-las além dos limites, de carregar em si o excesso, de ultrapassagem dos parâmetros dos incursos que a moda instaura. / This research aims to understand the ruptures of meanings on the bodies expressed in contemporary fashion photographs. Our look is set for contemporaneity, in images that we believe to be under the No Limits juncture, a moment of fashion photography that has flourished since the 90s and which puts in vogue the multiplication of styles and languages exercised in these images. Theoretically we adopt the perspective of the Semiotics of Culture (SC) towards fashion, proposing a look that sees this fashion as a modeling system that operates codes and dynamics of culture. In addition, we develop concepts related to the photographic language and, in turn, of fashion photography, exposing its peculiarities and techniques that engender the texts analyzed by us. Still from a theoretical perspective, we focus on the body in a sociological and cultural way to enter into the specificities of the bodies engaged in fashion and consecutively in fashion photography, delineating then, regularities and standardizations that help us to think the direction of the ruptures of senses. As a methodological course in the examination and apprehension of the senses, we operate these processes by proposing a trajectory of examination and interpretation of the empirical object, considering the identification of unpredictability, irregularities and discontinuities in textual constructions of contemporary fashion photographs The process of observation starts from theoretical drives of SC elements, as well as from photographic language, fashion and the body. Complementarily we trigger an interpretative scheme of these observations inspired by different levels of meanings that overlap the images. The fashion images of No Limits and the bodies expressed in them configure texts and narratives permeated by ruptures, fissures, displacements in relation to the fashion photography itself that is always in movement. We observe, therefore, these corporalities of the fashion, in the sense of positioning them beyond the limits, of carrying in itself the excess, of overcoming the parameters of the incursion that fashion establishes.

Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the Master's Degree in Technology: Fashion, Durban Institute of Technology, 2006. / This dissertation questions and expands currently held notions of traditional fashion identities in South African fashion photography. The impetus for this study stems from observations of a relatively low level of political engagement in local fashion photography as compared to other areas of art and design which seem very enunciative of a politics of identity. Investigation of identity politics in South African fashion photography was informed by a staged investigation. Firstly, accounts of a literature review of fashion theory and key theories of identity allow entrenched constructions of fashion representations to be seen as restrictively politicised. Primary investigation of expert fashion views followed. The concepts of hybridity and fluidity in theories of identity were central to the discovery of alternative politicised fashion identities / M

The childlike character of ideal femininities has long been critiqued in feminist literature, from Mary Wollstonecraft (1792) to Susan Faludi (1992). Yet, despite the partial gains of feminism the ‘woman-child’ continues to be a prominent subject-position in fashion photography of the West. This thesis builds upon earlier feminist critiques of the infantilisation of women by considering the meaning of childlike femininities in the period spanning 1990 to 2015. In particular, it questions whether representations of childlike femininities can shed their dehumanising, ‘second sex’ connotations and be resignified to a more progressive end in the contemporary context. The possible appeal of ‘girly’ subject-positions to women, following several waves of feminism, is explored through reception studies carried out with female participants in focus groups, as well as theory on the ‘female gaze’. Images were principally drawn from three British fashion magazines: Vogue (UK), i-D, and Lula. Drawing on the work of Michel Foucault and Judith Butler, this thesis demonstrates the ways in which discourses on childhood, girlhood and womanhood overlap and intersect to produce the figure of the ‘woman-child’ in the fashion media and beyond. This subject-position is shown not to be singular but rather as appearing in a number of guises. The many permutations of childlike femininity are subsumed into four overarching categories: the Romantic woman-child; the femme-enfant-fatale; Lolita style; and the Parodic woman-child. This thesis thereby contributes to existing debates in fashion studies by considering in greater detail the different discourses on childhood and femininity that come into play when women are positioned as childlike. A multi-faceted visual methodology is employed, combining visual analysis of imagery with experimental reception studies. Reception studies were conducted in focus groups with female participants and provide insight into the way these women made sense of the ‘woman-child’. In addition, they provide an indication as to whether the participants liked or disliked childlike femininities in the fashion media, thus pointing to the possible investments women might have in childlike subject-positions. Finally, including an element of social research served to challenge and/or reinforce the researcher’s own readings of the imagery, pointing to new avenues of research and expanding the discursive field of enquiry. This aspect of the thesis makes a methodological contribution to literature on the reception of still media imagery in fashion studies, magazine studies and feminist media studies.

The thesis Photography and fashion: formation of Empty Image explores the phenomenon of fashion photography as it appears in lifestyle magazines. The hypothesis of this study is that the current fashion photography uses creative painting techniques, which denies the key idea about photography - that photography mirrors reality - but in the same time photography recipients are expected to believe this idea. This leads us to the assumption that fashion misuses photography. Fashion Photography, by constant repetition and displaying identical objects that in reality don't exist, which only refer to an indefinite referent gives rise to an empty image with no meaning. Powered by TCPDF (www.tcpdf.org)