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1	Designing intercultural dress in multicultural times Lapa, Raul Boino de Azevedo January 2003 (has links) The intent of this thesis reflects my own artistic work within the expressive modes of fashion and costume design, through which I have been drawing a conceptual and aesthetic parallelism with the couture work of French fashion creator Paul Poiret (Paris: l 879-1944). It is also my intention to demonstrate, by my own designs, the anthropological possibility for a cross-cultural dimension to both experience and the transference of influences in a sarto1ial material culture. Sartorial hybridism can be comprehended in broad social and cultural phenomena like theatre, haute-couture, and fashion. It can also be specifically incorporated in a particular interdisciplinary creative process of work, and develop an oiiginal idea of intercultural patterns of dress. The creative intercultural dress project evolves from an artistic notion that grasps multiple material culture realities in a wide pool of aesthetic options. It develops a creative feed-back from surveying, reading, and interpreting classic and contemporary forms of dress hybridism in costume history. As anthropologist and dress creator, visualizing the impact of cultures on and through historic, traditional, and modem costumes has supported my belief that cross-cultural dress is a syncretic form of art, representing a creative reinterpretation of heterogeneous worldwide cultural material, imaginatively resulting in the formation of conceptually new fashionable configurations of clothing. Anthropology History of costume Costume production
2	Pluderhosor, pomander och påhitt : Föreställningar om Vasarenässansens kläder i 1800-talets historiemåleri Runold, Miriam January 2023 (has links) This thesis concerns six Swedish history paintings from 1864 until 1897 with motifs depicting the Swedish renaissance. The purpose of the thesis is to examine the influence of 19th century fashion on the depiction of garments from the renaissance, and what this portrayal deflects concerning the artists contemporary vision of fashion and bodily ideals in the 16th century. Using a checklist method to approach the artworks the thesis examines how and to what extent the artists used visual culture from the 16th century in their visualization of the era and wether or not this portrayal is affected by the artists contemporary fashions. Interwined with the method is the theoretical framwork of the thesis, based upon the notion of fashion in art as a fabricated construct and history usage. The thesis presents the idea that the history painting depicting events spanning between a period of 70 years still uses a similar fashion in the works, even considering the time frame of different styles. The idea of gender coded garments and body siluetts during the 19th century heavily affects the fashion in the paintings, as well as the artist’s contemporary attitudes towards representations of sexuality and bodily beauty. Erik Johan; Salmson Hugo; Kronberg Julius; Hellqvist Gustaf; Lagerholm Wilhelmina Art History Konstvetenskap
3	Gemalte Gewandung im Florentiner Quattrocento Merseburger, Maria 10 January 2018 (has links) Die vorliegende Arbeit stellt für die Bildwissenschaften eine methodische Grundlage dar, Kleidung im Bild als Konstruktion zu begreifen und zu interpretieren. Anhand der eindrucksvollen Patronageprojekte der Familie Tornabuoni – einer gerade emporgestiegenen Kaufmannsfamilie im Umkreis der Medici – werden die Möglichkeiten und Grenzen von symbolischer Kommunikation in der Florentiner Frühneuzeit untersucht. Unter anderem über Symbole wurde die Position im Gesellschaftsgefüge des unsicheren frühneuzeitlichen Regierungsklimas immer wieder neu hergestellt und von Neuem ausgehandelt. Die gewählte Bildgarderobe ist dafür ein hervorstechendes Beispiel. / The thesis presents an art historical methodology that assesses clothing and its pictorial representations in order to interpret how material culture relates to social construction. Using as an example an impressive patronage project of the Tornabuoni family – a newly rich family of merchants in the circle of the Medici – reveals the possibilities as well as the limitations of symbolic communication through dress in early modern Florence. In addition to outward style, these subtle symbols helped to establish and renegotiate their bearer’s position in the shifting hierarchy of an uncertain political climate. By closely examining Tornabuoni commissions, the thesis demonstrates how clothing is a critical means of understanding social motivations and aspirations. Renaissance Florenz Frühe Neuzeit Materielle Kultur Kleidung Gewandung Domenico Ghirlandaio Kostüm Patronage Portrait Ikonologie Ikonographie Italien Geschichte der Kleidung Tornabuoni Medici Familienkapellen Fresken Renaissance Florence Dress Portraiture Early Modern Italy Material Culture Studies Domenico Ghirlandaio Patronage Iconology Iconography History of Costume Tornabuoni Medici Family Chapels Frescoes LI 33160 ddc:700

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