A globalização tem apresentado ameaças e oportunidades aos negócios das agroindústrias de países em desenvolvimento. Apesar das organizações da América Latina e da Ásia competirem no mercado mundial com baixos custos de produção, estas deveriam desenvolver outras vantagens competitivas como a flexibilidade, o tempo de atravessamento e a qualidade. Empresas não tradicionais, como as da cadeia coureiro-calçadista, estão sendo demandadas por seus clientes a implantarem a certificação ISO 9001:2000 para assegurar a qualidade. Contudo, reporta-se que a obtenção desta certificação por motivação externa, como demanda de clientes, não ocasionaria melhores práticas de gestão e resultados. Desta forma, o objetivo deste estudo foi analisar nas organizações certificadas e não certificadas ISO 9001:2000 da cadeia coureiro-calçadista brasileira as dimensões de práticas de gestão e de resultados, assim como, analisar a dimensão de motivações que levaram as organizações a obter a certificação. Para isso, utilizou-se o levantamento de pesquisa como metodologia. Foram enviados e-mails convites a 1453 empresas para responderem um questionário na internet. O questionário visou captar a percepção dos respondentes em relação às três dimensões estudadas. Obteve-se uma amostra de 130 empresas, 45 certificadas e 85 não certificadas. Primeiramente, foi realizada uma validação interna para demonstrar a confiabilidade e a validade do questionário. Em seguida, realizou-se a validação externa com testes estatísticos não paramétricos para demonstrar a estatística inferencial do estudo. Os fatores extraídos das três dimensões apresentaram correlações positivas nas organizações certificadas. Além disso, empresas certificadas com diferentes motivações que levaram a obtenção da ISO 9001:2000 não apresentaram diferenças significativas nas práticas de gestão e nos resultados. Contundo, as empresas certificadas apresentaram um desempenho superior quando comparadas com aquelas não certificadas. O estudo sugere às empresas não certificadas da cadeia que se motivem para obter a ISO 9001:2000 para que possam melhor desenvolver seus negócios. / Globalization has presented both threats and opportunities for businesses of the agrobased industries in developing countries. Latin America and Asia organizations compete on low costs in global market, though they should develop other competitive advantages as flexibility, lead-time and quality. Non-traditional companies, like tannery-footwear industry, have being requested by customers to implement ISO 9001:2000 certification to assure the quality. However, it is reported that attaining the certification for external reasons, as customers demand, would not improve practical management and results. Hence the objective of this study was to analyze, in Brazilian ISO 9001:2000 certified and not certified organizations of the tannery-footwear supply chain, the dimensions of practical management and results, as well as, analyze the dimension of motivations in which organizations obtained the certification. Research survey was applied to collect data. Invitations had been sent by emails to 1453 organizations to fill up a questionnaire on the Internet. The purpose of the questionnaire was to capture the respondent’s perception about three dimensions studied. A sample of 130 organizations, 45 certified and 85 not certified, was obtained. First an internal validation was carried out to demonstrate the extent of reliability and validity of the questionnaire. After that it was carried out an external validation applying nonparametric statistics to demonstrate the inferencial statistics. The extracted factors of three dimensions had positive correlations among certified organizations. Moreover, certified organizations with different motivations to attain ISO 9001:2000 did not show significant differences on practical management and results. However, certified organizations exhibit superior performance when comparing with not certified. The study suggests that not certified organizations should motivate to obtain the ISO 9001:2000 certification in order to improve their businesses.

O processo de transformação da pele em couro envolve uma seqüência complexa de reações químicas e processos mecânicos, no qual o curtimento representa fundamental estágio, por propiciar à pele características como qualidade, estabilidade hidrotérmica e excelentes propriedades para uso. O sulfato básico de cromo trivalente é o agente curtente predominantemente empregado no curtimento de peles em todo o mundo. É produzido a partir do cromato de sódio, industrialmente obtido do minério de cromo. Consideráveis quantidades de resíduos sólidos contendo cromo são geradas pelas indústrias coureira e calçadista. Estes resíduos tem sido motivo de preocupação constante, uma vez que são considerados perigosos devido a presença do cromo. O processo de incineração destes resíduos é uma importante alternativa a ser considerada, em decorrência de suas características de redução de massa, volume e possibilidade de aproveitamento da energia térmica dos gases de combustão. O processo de incineração dos resíduos das indústrias coureira e calçadista dá origem a cinzas contendo cerca de 40% de cromo que pode ser submetida a um processo de recuperação. Este trabalho apresenta os resultados da pesquisa sobre a utilização das cinzas, provenientes da incineração dos resíduos sólidos da indústria coureira e da indústria calçadista, para a produção de cromato de sódio(VI). No processo de planejamento e de condução dos experimentos foram utilizadas as técnicas de Planejamento Fatorial 2k, Metodologia de Superfície de Resposta e Análise de Variância na avaliação da produção de cromato de sódio(VI). Os fatores investigados foram: temperatura, taxa de aquecimento, tempo de reação, vazão de ar e quantidade de dolomita. A partir das variáveis selecionadas identificaram-se como parâmetros importantes a temperatura e a taxa de aquecimento. As superfícies de resposta tridimensionais obtidas a partir dos modelos de segunda ordem ajustados aos dados experimentais, apresentaram o comportamento do efeito conjugado dos fatores temperatura e taxa de aquecimento sobre a variável resposta grau de oxidação, desde a temperatura de inicio da reação química até a temperatura limite utilizada industrialmente. As condições de operação do processo de produção de cromato de sódio(VI) foram otimizadas. Os níveis ótimos dos fatores de controle aplicados as cinzas dos resíduos da indústria calçadista, geradas em uma planta piloto com incinerador de leito fixo, com tecnologia de gaseificação e combustão combinadas, apresentaram um grau de oxidação superior a 96% para as cinzas coletadas no ciclone e de 99,5% para as cinzas coletas no reator de gaseificação. Os resíduos sólidos, as cinzas e o produto de reação foram caracterizados por análises químicas, fluorescência de raio-X, microscopia eletrônica de varredura e difração de raio-X. / The transformation process of hides and skins in leather involves a sequence of complex chemical reactions and mechanical processes. Amongst these, tanning is the fundamental stage, which gives these leather characteristics: top handling quality, high hydrothermal stability and excellent properties of use. Trivalent chromium salts, typically hydrated basic chromium sulfate, are the most widely used tanning agent in the world. It is derived from Sodium Chromate that is industrially derived from ore chromate. Most quantity of solid wastes with chromium comes from leather and leather shoes industries. These leather wastes have been being the reason of constant worry because chromium makes it dangerous. The leather waste incineration process is an important alternative to be considered, because it results in reduction of mass, volume and allow make use of thermal energy. The incineration process waste residues, of leather and leather shoes industries, origins ashes with 40% of chromium that can pass through a process of recuperation. This paper presents the research results about ashes utilization, deriving from waste residues incineration of leather and shoes industry to produce Sodium Chromate (VI). The process of experimental and the process of planning were established according to statistical design of experiments. It was utilized techniques of 2k factorial designs, Response Surface Methodology and Analysis of Variance in the production evaluation of sodium chromate (VI). The factors studied were: temperature, heating rate, time reaction, flow rate of air and quantity of dolomite. Based on selected variables were identified as important parameters: temperature and heating rate. A second order polynomial regression equation was derived to plot 3-D response surface that clearly illustrate the relationship between the temperature and the rate heating of oven on chromium oxidation degree, since the beginning temperature of the chemical reaction until the limit temperature used at industries. The operating condition of the production process of sodium chromate (VI) was optimized. Using the great levels of the controlling factors on waste ashes residues of shoes industries, created at a pilot plant with fixed bed reactor with integrated gasification combined cycle, presented an oxidation degree of over 96% of ashes collected from cyclone, and of 99,5% of ashes collected from gasification chamber. The leather waste, ashes and reaction product were characterized by chemical analysis, fluorescence X-ray, scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and X-ray diffraction (XRD).

Made available in DSpace on 2014-06-11T19:27:49Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 0 Previous issue date: 2010-10-05Bitstream added on 2014-06-13T18:32:01Z : No. of bitstreams: 1 tanaka_jec_me_rcla.pdf: 2937121 bytes, checksum: ac3d860b62abd4898dfcfe2d51011a3a (MD5) / Conselho Nacional de Desenvolvimento Científico e Tecnológico (CNPq) / Esta pesquisa visa compreender as relações do trabalho formal nos Arranjo Produtivos Locais calçadistas do Estado de São Paulo, através da análise sistemática das características do mercado de trabalho nos municípios de Birigui, Franca e Jaú. Para tanto, este trabalho se utiliza da abordagem regulacionista para a compreensão da organização do espaço produtivo nesses municípios no período após a década de abertura comercial e reestruturação produtiva / This research seeks to understand the relationships of formal work in the Local Productive Arrangement footwear of São Paulo, through the systematic analysis of the characteristics of the labor market in the counties of Birigui, France and Jaú. Therefore, this work utilizes the regulationist approach to understanding the organization of production space in these municipalities in the period after the decade of trade liberalization and restructuring

O processo de transformação da pele em couro envolve uma seqüência complexa de reações químicas e processos mecânicos, no qual o curtimento representa fundamental estágio, por propiciar à pele características como qualidade, estabilidade hidrotérmica e excelentes propriedades para uso. O sulfato básico de cromo trivalente é o agente curtente predominantemente empregado no curtimento de peles em todo o mundo. É produzido a partir do cromato de sódio, industrialmente obtido do minério de cromo. Consideráveis quantidades de resíduos sólidos contendo cromo são geradas pelas indústrias coureira e calçadista. Estes resíduos tem sido motivo de preocupação constante, uma vez que são considerados perigosos devido a presença do cromo. O processo de incineração destes resíduos é uma importante alternativa a ser considerada, em decorrência de suas características de redução de massa, volume e possibilidade de aproveitamento da energia térmica dos gases de combustão. O processo de incineração dos resíduos das indústrias coureira e calçadista dá origem a cinzas contendo cerca de 40% de cromo que pode ser submetida a um processo de recuperação. Este trabalho apresenta os resultados da pesquisa sobre a utilização das cinzas, provenientes da incineração dos resíduos sólidos da indústria coureira e da indústria calçadista, para a produção de cromato de sódio(VI). No processo de planejamento e de condução dos experimentos foram utilizadas as técnicas de Planejamento Fatorial 2k, Metodologia de Superfície de Resposta e Análise de Variância na avaliação da produção de cromato de sódio(VI). Os fatores investigados foram: temperatura, taxa de aquecimento, tempo de reação, vazão de ar e quantidade de dolomita. A partir das variáveis selecionadas identificaram-se como parâmetros importantes a temperatura e a taxa de aquecimento. As superfícies de resposta tridimensionais obtidas a partir dos modelos de segunda ordem ajustados aos dados experimentais, apresentaram o comportamento do efeito conjugado dos fatores temperatura e taxa de aquecimento sobre a variável resposta grau de oxidação, desde a temperatura de inicio da reação química até a temperatura limite utilizada industrialmente. As condições de operação do processo de produção de cromato de sódio(VI) foram otimizadas. Os níveis ótimos dos fatores de controle aplicados as cinzas dos resíduos da indústria calçadista, geradas em uma planta piloto com incinerador de leito fixo, com tecnologia de gaseificação e combustão combinadas, apresentaram um grau de oxidação superior a 96% para as cinzas coletadas no ciclone e de 99,5% para as cinzas coletas no reator de gaseificação. Os resíduos sólidos, as cinzas e o produto de reação foram caracterizados por análises químicas, fluorescência de raio-X, microscopia eletrônica de varredura e difração de raio-X. / The transformation process of hides and skins in leather involves a sequence of complex chemical reactions and mechanical processes. Amongst these, tanning is the fundamental stage, which gives these leather characteristics: top handling quality, high hydrothermal stability and excellent properties of use. Trivalent chromium salts, typically hydrated basic chromium sulfate, are the most widely used tanning agent in the world. It is derived from Sodium Chromate that is industrially derived from ore chromate. Most quantity of solid wastes with chromium comes from leather and leather shoes industries. These leather wastes have been being the reason of constant worry because chromium makes it dangerous. The leather waste incineration process is an important alternative to be considered, because it results in reduction of mass, volume and allow make use of thermal energy. The incineration process waste residues, of leather and leather shoes industries, origins ashes with 40% of chromium that can pass through a process of recuperation. This paper presents the research results about ashes utilization, deriving from waste residues incineration of leather and shoes industry to produce Sodium Chromate (VI). The process of experimental and the process of planning were established according to statistical design of experiments. It was utilized techniques of 2k factorial designs, Response Surface Methodology and Analysis of Variance in the production evaluation of sodium chromate (VI). The factors studied were: temperature, heating rate, time reaction, flow rate of air and quantity of dolomite. Based on selected variables were identified as important parameters: temperature and heating rate. A second order polynomial regression equation was derived to plot 3-D response surface that clearly illustrate the relationship between the temperature and the rate heating of oven on chromium oxidation degree, since the beginning temperature of the chemical reaction until the limit temperature used at industries. The operating condition of the production process of sodium chromate (VI) was optimized. Using the great levels of the controlling factors on waste ashes residues of shoes industries, created at a pilot plant with fixed bed reactor with integrated gasification combined cycle, presented an oxidation degree of over 96% of ashes collected from cyclone, and of 99,5% of ashes collected from gasification chamber. The leather waste, ashes and reaction product were characterized by chemical analysis, fluorescence X-ray, scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and X-ray diffraction (XRD).

Made available in DSpace on 2016-08-18T12:52:14Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Dissertacao Camila Andrade dos Santos.pdf: 3051282 bytes, checksum: c2dd7f32991927080fea6030af6242b1 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2014-05-29 / For Design, the raw material chosen in the project, sometimes come from non-renewable natural resources, is the starting point for the production of any product. The increased production of goods, driven by the logic of ever increasing consumption, has implied in the use of more inputs, which is reflected in the increased exploitation of environmental resources. This chain of exploitation of natural resources has been the subject of criticism in several areas of knowledge, cause the numerous environmental problems identified worldwide. Considering the problems created by this situation, studies on Design, that taking for object of analysis the relationship between Design and development of products based on alternative raw materials, with less impact to the environment must be thinking as necessary. Taking the question of the relationship between Design and environmental sustainability as a central axis, the present work, using the methodological approach of ethnographic design, seeks to reflect on the potential use of pescada amarela (Cynoscion acoupa) as an alternative raw material for the development of products with low environmental impact, contributing to reduction of such waste in the environment. / Para o Design, a matéria-prima pensada no projeto, por vezes oriunda de recursos naturais não renováveis, é o ponto de partida para a produção de qualquer produto. O aumento da produção de bens, orientada pela lógica do consumo cada vez crescente, tem implicado na utilização de mais insumos, o que se reflete no aumento da exploração dos recursos ambientais. Essa cadeia de exploração de recursos naturais tem sido objeto de críticas em diversas áreas do conhecimento, em virtude dos inúmeros problemas ambientais identificados em escala mundial. Considerando os problemas gerados por essa situação, estudos no âmbito do Design, que tomam para objeto de análise a relação entre o design e o desenvolvimento de produtos a partir de matérias-primas alternativas às comumente utilizadas, de menor impacto para o meio ambiente, se fazem necessários. Tomando a questão da relação entre design e sustentabilidade ambiental como eixo central, a presente dissertação, utilizando a abordagem metodológica do design etnográfico, procura refletir sobre as potencialidades do uso do couro da pescada amarela (Cynoscion acoupa) como matéria-prima alternativa para o desenvolvimento de produtos de baixo impacto ambiental, contribuindo para redução do descarte desse tipo de resíduo no meio ambiente.

Actuellement, 80 à 85% des cuirs sont tannés au chrome. Ce procédé permet d'obtenir d'excellentes propriétés physico-mécaniques dans des conditions économiques optimales. Les sels de chrome sous forme trivalente utilisés lors de la fabrication du cuir ne sont pas nocifs; cependant sous certaines conditions et associés à d'autres substances, le chrome trivalent peut se transformer en chrome hexavalent, très allergisant et pouvant s'avérer dangereux pour la santé du consommateur. Depuis le 1er mai 2015, la présence de chrome hexavalent dans le cuir est soumise à la législation européenne; la teneur en chrome hexavalent ne doit pas excéder plus de 3 mg/kg de poids sec total du cuir (REACh ANNEXE 17, §47). A ce jour, de nombreux travaux de recherche ont été réalisés et des premières hypothèses ont été avancées pour expliquer la formation du chrome hexavalent dans le cuir. L'objectif de ce projet de recherche a été de rationaliser et d'approfondir ces différentes études pour essayer de mieux appréhender cette problématique. Ce projet de thèse a permis d'améliorer la spécificité et la fiabilité la méthode d'analyse pour la détermination de la teneur en chrome hexavalent en introduisant la chromatographie ionique. Ensuite, l'influence de la composition du cuir (matière grasse, indice d'iode, pH, chrome total et chrome extractible) sur la formation de chrome hexavalent dans le cuir a été étudiée afin d'expliquer l'origine et d'éventuels mécanismes d'oxydation du chrome trivalent (en chrome hexavalent). Enfin, cette étude s'est intéressée aux facteurs environnementaux (température, humidité relative, lumière et durée d'exposition), aux conditions de fabrication du cuir ou encore au cycle de vie du cuir (transport, transformation en produit fini, utilisation par le consommateur) afin de déterminer l'impact de ces paramètres sur la formation du chrome hexavalent. A l'issue de ce travail, une méthode de vieillissement "artificiel" représentative de l'évolution réelle d'un cuir a été proposée, et ce quelles que soient les caractéristiques et la nature du cuir / Currently, 80 to 85% of leather is tanned with chrome. This process allows to obtain excellent physico-mechanical properties with optimum economic conditions. The chromium salts in trivalent form used in the manufacturing of leather are not harmful; however under some conditions and associated with other substances, trivalent chromium can be transformed into hexavalent chromium, highly allergenic and potentially harmful to the health of the consumer. Since 1st May 2015, the presence of hexavalent chromium in leather is subject to European legislation; the hexavalent chromium content must not exceed 3 mg/kg of the total dry weight of leather (REACh ANNEX 17, § 47). To date, a great amount of research has been done and initial hypothesis have been able to explain the formation of hexavalent chromium in leather. The objective of this research project was to rationalize and to deal with these various studies in order to understand this problem in more detail. In this thesis project, the introduction of ion chromatography has improved the specificity and reliability of the analysis method for the determination of hexavalent chromium. Secondly, the influence of leather composition (fat liquor, iodine value, pH, total chromium and extractible chromium) on the formation of hexavalent chromium in leather was studied. The objective was to explain the potential oxidation mechanisms of trivalent chromium (in hexavalent chromium). The third part of this study deals with environmental factors (temperature, relative humidity, light and duration of exposure), leather manufacturing conditions or the life cycle of leather (transport, transformation into finished product, consumer use). The aim was to determine the impact of these parameters on the formation of hexavalent chromium. To conclude, an "artificial" ageing method representing the natural evolution of leather, and which corresponds to the characteristics and the nature of the leather, has been proposed

Alors qu’une majorité de travaux se concentre sur les mécanismes de contrôle ainsi que l’éthique autour des pratiques managériales, peu d’études empiriques s’intéressent à l’apparition, l’efficacité ou l’adéquation de ces mécanismes dans le contexte dans lequel ils s’appliquent. Nous avons mené notre étude sur le cas particulier du secteur du cuir en Éthiopie afin de comprendre comment naissent les mécanismes de gouvernance et leur influence dans la performance des entreprises. La thèse a donc pour objectif la mise en évidence et l’analyse des mécanismes de gouvernance sur un territoire spécifique en se concentrant sur les employés. Si les employés sont une partie prenante de l’entreprise, alors leur prise en compte dans les mécanismes de gouvernance doit influer sur la performance de l’entreprise. Se posent alors les problèmes de qualification de la performance, des modalités de cette prise en compte et de l’évaluation de ses effets, ainsi que leur inclusion dans un contexte culturel conçu dans sa profondeur historique. / While a majority of the work focuses on the control mechanisms and the ethics around management practices, few empirical studies focus on the emergence, effectiveness or appropriateness of these mechanisms in the context in which they apply. We conducted our study on the specific case of the leather sector in Ethiopia to understand how governance mechanisms are born and what their influence on business performance is. The thesis objective is thus the identification and analysis of governance mechanisms in a specific territory by focusing on employees. If employees are an integral part of the business, their inclusion in the governance mechanisms should influence the company's performance. This raises the issue on how to qualify performance, the terms of employees’ consideration, the evaluation of its effects and their inclusion in a cultural context conceived in its historical depth.

En la actualidad, los consumidores en el sector de manufactura en cuero para diferentes productos van revolucionando la moda, creando productos sostenibles con procesos y materiales alternativos como el cuero vegetal en reemplazo del cuero natural o bovino. Ante ello, nace la idea de presentar un modelo de negocio sobre carteras a base de cuero vegetal, el cual será obtenido por la Asociación de productores de Shiringa ubicada en Condorcanqui - Amazonas. Asimismo, se incorpora un cargador solar como valor adicional que va acorde a la iniciativa de realizar un proyecto amigable con el ambiente. Esta propuesta, lleva como nombre Vert Clair y considera como grupo objetivo a mujeres modernas y sofisticadas entre 18 y 40 años que gustan estar a la moda. Por ende, para probar la aceptación de este proyecto se ha realizado diversas investigaciones y experimentos que permitan dar validez a este modelo de negocio, para así presentar los planes de acción en las áreas pertinente, con la finalidad de obtener una aliciente rentabilidad y a la vez también, dar a conocer al mercado e industria peruana una nueva alternativa que transforme la moda. / Nowadays, consumers in the leather manufacturing sector for different products are revolutionizing fashion, creating sustainable products with alternative processes and materials such as vegetable leather to replace natural or bovine leather. Given this, the idea was born to present a business model on wallets based on vegetable leather, which will be obtained by the Association of producers of Shiringa located in Condorcanqui - Amazonas. Also, a solar panel is incorporated as additional value that goes according with the initiative to make an environmentally friendly project. This proposal is named Vert Clair and considers as a target group modern and sophisticated woman between 18 and 40 years old who like to be fashionable. Therefore, to test the acceptance of this project, various investigations and experiments have been carried out to validate this business model, to present the action plans in the relevant areas, in order to obtain an attractive profitability and at the same time also, to make known to the Peruvian market and industry a new alternative that transforms fashion. / Trabajo de investigación

Die vorliegende Arbeit befasst sich mit der Schwefelgerbung. Warum aber mit der Schwefelgerbung? Die Ergebnisse der Literaturauswertung und beider Experimentalteile wurden zum gegenwärtigen Wissenstand über die Schwefelgerbung zusammengefasst und die sich daraus ergebenden wissenschaftlichen und praktischen Schlussfolgerungen gezogen. Die Arbeit soll unter einem betont praktischen Aspekt einen Beitrag zur Theorie der Schwefelgerbung liefern und zugleich eine Entscheidung darüber ermöglichen, ob die "alte" Schwefelgerbung in Kombination mit modernen Gerbverfahren erneutes Interesse für die Lederherstellung verdient oder nicht.

Content: With the development of China sports, researches related to sports leather should be paid attention because they usually required higher strength than commonly used leather. In this paper, we focus on the production of gymnastics leather. In gymnastics, the athlete's hand will have high intensity contact with the balance bar, so the gymnastics leather is required to have high intensity performance. At the same time, in order to comply with the ornamental function, gymnastics leather is required to be light color. In this research, glutaraldehyde was used as the main tanning agent, while acrylic polymer and synthetic were used for retanning, in order to obtain high strength, environmentally friendly white gym leather. The shrinkage temperature and mechanical properties of tanned leather were determined and analyzed to determine the suitable tanning agent. Besides, other properties including softness, gas permeability, water permeability, flexing resistance and yellowing-resistance were also measured for selecting proper production process. Therefore, gymnastics leather with ideal performance can be prepared by this method, and the leather conforms to the practical application standard. In addition, the research has guiding significance and application prospect for high strength chrome-free tanned leather. Take-Away: Aldehyde tanning agents and retanning agents, which can be used for gymnastics leather making, were evaluated and selected to achieve ideal effect of finish leather. This research is meaningful to produce not only gymnastics leather but also other sporty leather which require high strength.