Em relação ao vestuário utilizável pelo público vegano (indivíduos que se abstêm, por motivos éticos e/ou ideológicos, na medida do possível, do consumo de produtos e serviços provenientes do reino animal), há diversas alternativas sintéticas aos materiais de origem animal que os substituem em suas funções práticas, estéticas e/ou simbólicas. De arremedos burlescos a imitações fidedignas da realidade, simulacros de peles, penas, pelos, ossos e secreções de animais, à primeira vista, de perto, de longe e/ou aos olhos de leigos, em diferentes graus de realismo, figuram aspectos estéticos e sensoriais que os tornam difíceis de serem distinguidos de genuínos materiais de origem animal. Neste contexto, o presente estudo concerne uma investigação qualitativa exploratória de caráter sobretudo fenomenológico, acerca da reflexão sobre a problemática de possíveis implicações conceituais e práticas mais notáveis, sob o enfoque ético, estético, sociológico, semiótico e prático, da ideia de simulacro, emulação e cópia de materiais de origem animal e/ou que façam referência, alusão ou evoquem aspectos exteriores de corpos de animais em vestuário de veganos. Para tanto, a partir de levantamentos de comentários de usuários veganos em redes sociais da internet, aplicação de questionários e entrevistas em profundidade com usuários, ativistas do movimento vegano e especialistas teóricos, espera-se, com esta contribuição, iluminar os campos do design de moda, do veganismo e, consequentemente, dos direitos dos animais. Alguns dos resultados desta investigação sugerem, por exemplo, que, enquanto, para alguns usuários, o recurso a alternativas consideradas como veganas seria aceitável pelo fato de substituírem atributos funcionais, estéticos e até afetivos de roupas e acessórios diretamente associados, por eles, a sofrimento, para outros usuários, seria objeto de reprovação. Segundo parte dos respondentes, devido ao razoável grau de fidedignidade de vários destes simulacros, o mero uso deste tipo de material artificial resultaria pouco aceitável por ser insuficientemente discernível de materiais derivados de corpos de animais. Nestes casos, esta verossimilhança poderia, segundo eles, indiretamente promover a ideia de que o uso de materiais de origem animal seria admissível, contribuindo, assim, para estimular o consumo de vestuário não condizente com a ideologia que adotam / In the cathegory of clothing which can be worn by the vegan public that is, by those who abstain as much as possible from consuming products and services of animal origin for ethical and ideological reasons there are various synthetic alternatives to materials of animal origin which fulfill the practical, aesthetic and/or symbolic functions. From burlesque copies to reliable imitations, like those of leather, feathers, fur, bones and animal secretionswith different degrees of realism, they haveat first, up close, or from a distance and/or to the eyes of laypeople, aesthetic and sensorial aspects that make it difficult to distinguish from genuine materials of animal origin. This study is a qualitative, exploratory, phenomenological investigation about the problematic of some of the most notable possible conceptual and practical implications, from the practical, aesthetic, philosophical, sociological and ethical viewpoints, of the idea of imitation, emulation and copying of materials of animal origin or materials which make a reference or allusion to, or which evoke exterior aspects of, animals bodies in vegans\' clothing.To this end, based on searches for vegan users comments in online social media, questionnaires and in-depth interviews with users, vegan movement activists and theoretical specialists (like ethics philosophers and designers specializing in ethical fashion), the aim of this study, based on conclusions obtained through analysis of these different points of view, is to illuminate the fields of fashion design, veganism and consequently, animal rights. Results of this investigation suggest, for instance, that for some users, making use of alternatives considered vegan would be an acceptable practice because they would replace functional, aesthetic and even affective attributes of clothing and accessories that such users otherwise associate with pain, while for other users this option would be objectionable. According to some respondents, due to the reasonably high level of visual similarity of various types of such simulacra, merely employing these animal byproducts would be considered less acceptable, given their insufficiently discernible distinction from animal-body materials. In such instances, they felt this verisimilitude could indirectly foster the idea that the use of such animal-origin material would be acceptable, therefore contributing to promoting the consumption of clothing of a type which is against the principles they adopt

Em relação ao vestuário utilizável pelo público vegano (indivíduos que se abstêm, por motivos éticos e/ou ideológicos, na medida do possível, do consumo de produtos e serviços provenientes do reino animal), há diversas alternativas sintéticas aos materiais de origem animal que os substituem em suas funções práticas, estéticas e/ou simbólicas. De arremedos burlescos a imitações fidedignas da realidade, simulacros de peles, penas, pelos, ossos e secreções de animais, à primeira vista, de perto, de longe e/ou aos olhos de leigos, em diferentes graus de realismo, figuram aspectos estéticos e sensoriais que os tornam difíceis de serem distinguidos de genuínos materiais de origem animal. Neste contexto, o presente estudo concerne uma investigação qualitativa exploratória de caráter sobretudo fenomenológico, acerca da reflexão sobre a problemática de possíveis implicações conceituais e práticas mais notáveis, sob o enfoque ético, estético, sociológico, semiótico e prático, da ideia de simulacro, emulação e cópia de materiais de origem animal e/ou que façam referência, alusão ou evoquem aspectos exteriores de corpos de animais em vestuário de veganos. Para tanto, a partir de levantamentos de comentários de usuários veganos em redes sociais da internet, aplicação de questionários e entrevistas em profundidade com usuários, ativistas do movimento vegano e especialistas teóricos, espera-se, com esta contribuição, iluminar os campos do design de moda, do veganismo e, consequentemente, dos direitos dos animais. Alguns dos resultados desta investigação sugerem, por exemplo, que, enquanto, para alguns usuários, o recurso a alternativas consideradas como veganas seria aceitável pelo fato de substituírem atributos funcionais, estéticos e até afetivos de roupas e acessórios diretamente associados, por eles, a sofrimento, para outros usuários, seria objeto de reprovação. Segundo parte dos respondentes, devido ao razoável grau de fidedignidade de vários destes simulacros, o mero uso deste tipo de material artificial resultaria pouco aceitável por ser insuficientemente discernível de materiais derivados de corpos de animais. Nestes casos, esta verossimilhança poderia, segundo eles, indiretamente promover a ideia de que o uso de materiais de origem animal seria admissível, contribuindo, assim, para estimular o consumo de vestuário não condizente com a ideologia que adotam / In the cathegory of clothing which can be worn by the vegan public that is, by those who abstain as much as possible from consuming products and services of animal origin for ethical and ideological reasons there are various synthetic alternatives to materials of animal origin which fulfill the practical, aesthetic and/or symbolic functions. From burlesque copies to reliable imitations, like those of leather, feathers, fur, bones and animal secretionswith different degrees of realism, they haveat first, up close, or from a distance and/or to the eyes of laypeople, aesthetic and sensorial aspects that make it difficult to distinguish from genuine materials of animal origin. This study is a qualitative, exploratory, phenomenological investigation about the problematic of some of the most notable possible conceptual and practical implications, from the practical, aesthetic, philosophical, sociological and ethical viewpoints, of the idea of imitation, emulation and copying of materials of animal origin or materials which make a reference or allusion to, or which evoke exterior aspects of, animals bodies in vegans\' clothing.To this end, based on searches for vegan users comments in online social media, questionnaires and in-depth interviews with users, vegan movement activists and theoretical specialists (like ethics philosophers and designers specializing in ethical fashion), the aim of this study, based on conclusions obtained through analysis of these different points of view, is to illuminate the fields of fashion design, veganism and consequently, animal rights. Results of this investigation suggest, for instance, that for some users, making use of alternatives considered vegan would be an acceptable practice because they would replace functional, aesthetic and even affective attributes of clothing and accessories that such users otherwise associate with pain, while for other users this option would be objectionable. According to some respondents, due to the reasonably high level of visual similarity of various types of such simulacra, merely employing these animal byproducts would be considered less acceptable, given their insufficiently discernible distinction from animal-body materials. In such instances, they felt this verisimilitude could indirectly foster the idea that the use of such animal-origin material would be acceptable, therefore contributing to promoting the consumption of clothing of a type which is against the principles they adopt

Cette thèse étudie le rôle de la critique dans la construction sociale des marchés. Le commerce équitable, et plus précisément la mode éthique, sont analysés comme cas extrêmes d’incertitude morale pesant sur l’organisation des marchés. Au travers d’une analyse qualitative de données secondaires, d’observations, d’entretiens et d’objets, cette recherche suit les acteurs dans les controverses qui performent le marché de la mode éthique. Inspirée par la sociologie pragmatique, elle éclaire les cadrages, recadrages et débordements qui solidifient ou déstabilisent les compromis portant sur la valeur des biens et sur les règles de l’échange. À l’origine, le cadre du vêtement équitable valorise l’artisanat, les conditions de production et les principes du commerce équitable. Puis, au début des années 2000, l’émergence de marques spécialisées contribue à recadrer le vêtement équitable en article de mode éthique. Enfin, à partir de la fin des années 2000, des marques de mode conventionnelle suscitent des controverses en se lançant, à leur tour, dans la mode éthique. Plus précisément, cette thèse analyse le travail d’un professionnel chargé d’organiser le marché, l’Ethical Fashion Show, le salon de la mode éthique. Cette recherche vise trois contributions. D’abord, elle propose la notion d’entreprise de marché pour décrire l’activité consistant à faire tenir dans un même cadre le marché et la critique. Ensuite, elle éclaire la notion de performativité de l’économie en soulignant les multiples manières par lesquelles la critique ré-agence les marchés. Enfin, elle met en lumière les dimensions matérielles et spatiales de la construction sociale des marchés au travers de l’étude de dispositifs de qualification, de disqualification et d’emprise. / This dissertation studies the role of criticism in the social construction of markets. Fair Trade, and especially ethical fashion, are analyzed as extreme cases of moral uncertainty related to the organization of markets. The qualitative analysis of secondary data, observations, interviews, and artefacts enables us to follow the actors through perfomative controversies. Inspired by French pragmatic sociology (Boltanski, Callon, Latour), this research highlights the process of framing, reframing and overframing that makes the compromises on values and market rules more or less stable. Historically, the frame of fair clothes values the production process of goods. Then, in the 2000’s, the emergence of pure players contributes to reframe fair clothes to fashion goods. Finally, at the end of the 2000’s, conventional brands of the fashion market raise controversies by involving in the ethical fashion markets. More precisely, this research studies the endeavour of the Ethical Fashion Show to organize the market. It aims at making three contributions. First, it proposes the notion of market entre-preneurship to describe the activity consisting in making compromises between market and its criticisms. Second, it highlights the notion of economic performativity by clarifying the multiple ways that criticisms shape market agencements. Third, it sheds light on the material and spatial dimensions of the social construction of markets by analyzing devices of qualification, disqualification and control.

En kvalitativ studie om konsumenters åsikter om etisk information på klädesplagg Det har identifierats att konsumenter saknar kunskap och information för att göra etiska köpbeslut. En följd av detta är att konsumenters bristande kunskap om etiskt mode hindrar dem från att förändra deras oro till faktiska köp. Syftet är att undersöka hur konsumenters kunskap, oro och åsikter kring etiskt mode reflekteras i deras syn på vilken etisk information de vill ha på klädprodukter. Förhoppningen är att studiens resultat ska bidra till mer kunskap till modebranschen om konsumenters behov av information vid köp av etiska och hållbara produkter. De forskningsfrågor som studien syftar att besvara är följande; hur resonerar konsumenter kring etisk information som sätts på klädesplagg, vilken etisk information vill konsumenter ha på klädesplagg; hur vill konsumenter att etisk information ska presenteras på klädesplagg för att de enklare ska kunna välja etiska klädprodukter.   Vi har utgått från en teoretisk referensram som belyser konsumenters köpbeteende av etiskt mode vilken inkluderar en modell baserad på sex teser. Från dessa har endast tre teser använts och utifrån dessa har en egen analysmodell presenterats som användes för att analysera vår tempiriska material. Analysmodellen inkluderar konsumenters kunskap och oro om etiskt mode; konsumenters åsikter och övertygelser om företags etiska handlingar; vilken etisk information vill konsumenter ha på klädesplagg; hur konsumenter vill att etisk information ska presenteras på klädesplagg för att de enklare ska kunna välja etiska klädprodukter. För att samla in empiriskt material har metoden fokusgrupp valts där vi har gjort två grupper.   Resultatet av denna studie blev att konsumenter anser att dagens information inte är tillräckligt synlig och de känner att de inte har kunskapen att bedöma vilka produkter som är etiska eller oetiska. Konsumenter anser att klädindustrin är en smutsig industri som behöver förändring. Det har även visat sig att konsumenter känner sig tveksamma till företags verkliga syfte bakom deras etiska arbete samt har lågt förtroende för dem. Den etiska information som konsumenter vill ha är bland annat märkningar som land, närproducerat, egen producerat och symboler för etik och barnarbete. Konsumenter vill att detta ska presenteras tydligt och synlig på främst etiketter. / It has been identified that consumers don’t have the information or knowledge they need to make ethical purchasing decisions. A consequence of this is that consumers lack the knowledge of ethical fashion which prevents them from changing their concerns to actual purchases. The purpose of this study is to investigate how consumers’ knowledge, concern and opinions about ethical fashion reason in which information they want on clothing products. The hope is that the result of this study can contribute to more knowledge for the fashion industry about consumers’ need for information when purchasing ethical and sustainable products. This study aims to answer the following research questions; how do consumers deliberate about ethical information on garments; which ethical information do consumers want on clothes; and how would consumers prefer ethical information to be presented in order to being able to make better choices when purchasing garments.   We have proceeded from a theoretical framework which illustrates consumers’ buying behavior of ethical fashion which includes a model based on six hypothesis. From these only three hypothesis have been used and form the basis for our own analytical model that was used to analyse the empirical data. The analytical model includes consumers’ knowledge and concerns about ethical fashion; consumers’ beliefs about companies ethical actions; which ethical information do consumers want on clothes; and how consumers want ethical information to be presented in order to being able to make better choices when purchasing garments. As a research method we have used interviews with two focus groups.   The result of this study showed that consumers believe that the current ethical information is not easily available and they feel that they don’t have the knowledge to decide which products that are ethical or not. Consumers feel that the clothing industry is a dirty one which needs to substantially change. The result also shows that consumers feel quite doubtful as to fashion companies real purposes behind their ethical messages and that consumers have low faith in them. The ethical information that consumers want are labels that contain information such as country of origin, whether locally produced or not, own produced as well as recognized symbols regarding ethics and child labor. Consumers want this information to be clearly presented and visible on tags.   The language of the study is Swedish.

En la actualidad, los consumidores en el sector de manufactura en cuero para diferentes productos van revolucionando la moda, creando productos sostenibles con procesos y materiales alternativos como el cuero vegetal en reemplazo del cuero natural o bovino. Ante ello, nace la idea de presentar un modelo de negocio sobre carteras a base de cuero vegetal, el cual será obtenido por la Asociación de productores de Shiringa ubicada en Condorcanqui - Amazonas. Asimismo, se incorpora un cargador solar como valor adicional que va acorde a la iniciativa de realizar un proyecto amigable con el ambiente. Esta propuesta, lleva como nombre Vert Clair y considera como grupo objetivo a mujeres modernas y sofisticadas entre 18 y 40 años que gustan estar a la moda. Por ende, para probar la aceptación de este proyecto se ha realizado diversas investigaciones y experimentos que permitan dar validez a este modelo de negocio, para así presentar los planes de acción en las áreas pertinente, con la finalidad de obtener una aliciente rentabilidad y a la vez también, dar a conocer al mercado e industria peruana una nueva alternativa que transforme la moda. / Nowadays, consumers in the leather manufacturing sector for different products are revolutionizing fashion, creating sustainable products with alternative processes and materials such as vegetable leather to replace natural or bovine leather. Given this, the idea was born to present a business model on wallets based on vegetable leather, which will be obtained by the Association of producers of Shiringa located in Condorcanqui - Amazonas. Also, a solar panel is incorporated as additional value that goes according with the initiative to make an environmentally friendly project. This proposal is named Vert Clair and considers as a target group modern and sophisticated woman between 18 and 40 years old who like to be fashionable. Therefore, to test the acceptance of this project, various investigations and experiments have been carried out to validate this business model, to present the action plans in the relevant areas, in order to obtain an attractive profitability and at the same time also, to make known to the Peruvian market and industry a new alternative that transforms fashion. / Trabajo de investigación

No description available.

Textil- och modeindustrin har på senare tid uppmärksammats i allt större utsträckning för att vara en ohållbar bransch och som följd av problemen har en rad etiska modevarumärken lanserats. De tar hänsyn till påverkan på miljö och människorna i produktionen, varför deras produkter kallas etiskt mode. De varumärken och de butiker som säljer etiskt mode har kunder som tar hänsyn till etiska aspekter i sitt köpbeslut, så kallade etiska konsumenter.Senaste decenniet har forskning på etiskt mode genomförts, men då framförallt på den vanliga konsumenten. Då forskning på svenska etiska konsumenter är begränsad har författarna till den här uppsatsen funnit det intressant att se närmare på dem. Tidigare forskning på etiska konsumenter har uppmärksammat ett gap mellan de etiska konsumenternas attityd mot etiskt mode och deras faktiska konsumentbeteende, ett attityd-beteendegap. De etiska konsumenterna har som intention att handla etiska kläder men gör det inte alltid.Syftet med den här uppsatsen är att förstå, beskriva och förklara vad som styr den svenska etiska konsumentens val att handla eller att inte handla etiska modekläder i syfte att öka förståelsen för hur företag kan minska det nu rådande attityd- beteendegapet.För att uppfylla syftet har en studie med en kvalitativ ansats genomförts. Syftet är inte att svara på några frågor eller göra någon form av generalisering, utan hellre att förstå meningen bakom den undersökta gruppen etiska konsumenters beteende. För empiriinsamlingen har fokusgrupper och ostrukturerade intervjuer använts som metod. Den insamlade empirin har analyserats med hjälp av relevant bakgrundinformation, litteratur på ämnet, tidigare forskning och teorier om konsumentbeteende, specifikt etiskt konsumentbeteende.Utkomsten från empirin visar på att de etiska konsumenterna kännetecknas av att vara empatiska och att bry sig mer om sin omgivnings välmående än sin egna ekonomiska vinning. Deras intentioner är att handla etiska kläder, dock stärker den här studien tidigare forskning som visat på att etiska konsumenter inte alltid handlar efter deras etiska intentioner. För etiska konsumenter liksom vanliga konsumenter är pris och design faktorer som spelar in på deras köpbeslut. Den kvalitativa studien pekar på att den etiska konsumenten handlar etiska produkter när de matchar dennes behov och när det finns ett intresse för produkten i sig.Mängden kunskap om problemen i produktionen ökar chansen att konsumenten handlar etiskt men saknas tillgänglig information om produkterna och återförsäljare så finns det en risk att den etiska konsumenten väljer andra produkter framför etiska produkter. Företagen måste inse vikten av att göra sig tillgängliga och sina produkter attraktiva. Studien tyder på att företag, både med och utan etiska koncept, måste ha god kännedom om sina kunder. Även den etiska konsumenten har olika behov beroende av var den befinner sig i livet. Produkterna och marknadsföring av dem bör följaktligen anpassas till den aktuella situationen.The textile and fashion industry increasingly gain attention for not being a sustainable industry. As a result a range of fashion brands have been launched. They consider the impact on the environment and people within the production, why the products from these producers are called ethical fashion. The brands and the stores offering ethical fashion have customers who consider ethical aspects when they buy clothes, so called ethical consumers.Since research on Swedish ethical consumers is limited the authors of this thesis found it interesting to take a closer look at them. Previous research has noticed a gap between the ethical consumers’ attitude towards ethical fashion and their actual consumer behaviour, an attitude-behaviour gap.The purpose of this thesis is to understand, describe and explain what directs the Swedish ethical consumer's choice to buy or not to buy ethical fashion clothes, in order to increase the understanding of how companies can reduce the existing attitude- behaviour gap.A study with a qualitative approach has been carried out. The aim was not to be able to give answers or make any generalization, instead to understand the meaning behind the group of ethical consumers whose behaviour have been studied. For the gathering of empirical data, focus groups and unstructured interviews have been used as method. The empirical data has been analyzed using relevant background information, literature on the topic, previous research and theories about consumer behaviour, specifically ethical consumer behaviour.The outcome from the empirical data indicates that ethical consumers are characterized by being empathetic and to care more about the well-being of their environment than their personal financial gain. Their intentions are to buy ethical clothes, however this study support previous studies which have shown that ethical consumers not always act according to their ethical intentions. For ethical consumers, just like regular consumers, price and design are factors that have impact on their buying decisions. This qualitative study indicates that the ethical consumer buy ethical products when the products match their needs and when they have an interest in the product itself. The quantity of knowledge about the ethical problems increases the chance that the consumer will buy ethical products, but if information about the products and the retailers is not available there is a risk that the ethical consumer chooses other products instead of ethical ones. It is essential for companies to realize the importance of being available and making their products attractive. The study suggests that companies, both with and without ethical concepts, need to have good knowledge about their customers. Also the ethical consumers have different needs depending on where in life they are. The products and how marketing is used on them must therefore be adjusted accordingly to this. / Program: Textilekonomutbildningen

This paper is an attempt to identify new ways to improve consumer’s response to ethical fashion branding through written mission statements and fashion films. It examines material by three fashion brands: H&M, Stella McCartney and People Tree. Additionally, it reviews and summarizes findings of previous literature in the field of ethical and sustainable fashion branding and builds a list of principal factors that play in the success of ethical fashion branding. The paper concludes with providing recommendations to improve the branding of each case study. / BA Thesis

La preocupación por el diseño y el medio ambiente empezó en 1960 desde entonces han surgido diferentes enfoques con un mismo objetivo, buscar la reducción del impacto que tiene el sector de la moda en la degradación ambiental y social. Con el paso del tiempo han surgido diferentes conceptos relacionados a la moda sostenible como moda ética, en la cual engloba el factor social y ambiental. Diferentes empresas en la década del siglo XXI empiezan a dejar atrás la idea de diseño ecológico y se enfocan un concepto más completo que es la moda sostenible. Por ello, se dice que en dicho periodo nace aquel concepto. Asimismo, existen 2 grupos de personas los que tienen hábitos de consumo responsable y los que no, por ello es importante preguntarse: ¿por qué algunos consumidores tienen tendencia a consumir productos sostenibles y por qué otros no?, ¿los compradores estarían dispuestos a pagar más por productos sostenibles? este trabajo se busca responder a las preguntas planteadas, entre otras más. La presente investigación busca conocer los factores que influyen en la decisión de compra de consumidores de moda sostenible en Lima entre los años 2015 a 2020. Para ello, se elaborará un estudio con enfoque cualitativo con la finalidad de desarrollar a profundidad el tema propuesto. En este se recogerá información mediante entrevistas a profundidad. / Concern for design and the environment began in 1960. Since then, different approaches have emerged with the same objective, to seek to reduce the impact of the fashion sector on environmental and social degradation. Over time, different concepts related to sustainable fashion have emerged as ethical fashion, in which the social and environmental factor is included. Different companies in the decade of the 21st century are starting to leave behind the idea of ecological design and are focusing on a more complete concept that is sustainable fashion. Therefore, it is said that in this period that concept is born. Also, there are 2 groups of people who have responsible consumption habits and those who do not, so it is important to ask: Why do some consumers tend to consume sustainable products and why do others not?, Would buyers be willing to pay more for sustainable products? This work seeks to answer the questions raised, among others. This research seeks to understand the factors that influence the purchase decision of sustainable fashion consumers in Lima between 2015 and 2020. To this end, a study with a qualitative approach will be carried out in order to develop the proposed topic in depth. In this study, information will be collected through in-depth interviews. / Trabajo de investigación

No description available.