Nesta tese foi estudada a utilização da serragem de couro do tipo wet blue como meio suporte de filtros percoladores no pós-tratamento de esgoto sanitário. O desenvolvimento deu-se em três fases: na primeira fase foram realizadas a classificação e caracterização da serragem, bem como a sua preparação através de peneiramento, lavagens e secagem. Foram realizados dois tipos de lavagens: uma em batelada com solução alcalina de pH em torno de 9,0 e outra contínua com água corrente com pH em torno de 7,0. Na segunda fase foram utilizados quatro filtros percoladores com volume aproximado de 10 litros; dois foram preenchidos com serragem de couro bruta peneirada e os outros dois com serragem de couro peneirada, lavada e seca ao ar livre. Esses filtros operaram em série com quatro filtros de volume aproximado de 30 litros, preenchidos da mesma forma. Os quatro primeiros filtros receberam o efluente de um reator anaeróbio compartimentado e os demais receberam os efluentes dos primeiros. A terceira fase consistiu do uso apenas dos filtros percoladores de maiores volumes, os quais operaram aerados e com o afluente alcalinizado. Os conjuntos de filtros que operaram em série na segunda fase apresentaram eficiências de remoção de coliformes totais e fecais que variaram em torno de 94 e 92%, respectivamente. A eficiência de remoção de DBO5 total foi cerca de 80%. Na terceira fase, os filtros apresentaram eficiências de remoção de coliformes totais e fecais de cerca de 98 e 99%, respectivamente. Com relação à eficiência de remoção de DBO5, o valor encontrado foi de aproximadamente 80%. Nesta terceira fase foram encontradas excelentes reduções de NTK e de nitrogênio amoniacal com eficiências médias de remoção, para os dois parâmetros, de 83% antes da alcalinização e de 100% após a alcalinização. / This thesis studied the use of leather sawing (wet blue type) as packed bed of trickling filters in the wastewater post-treatment. The thesis was divided into three stages: as first stage the classification and characterization of the leather sawings were accomplished, as well as its conditioning through sieving, washing and drying. Two washing techniques were accomplished: a batch one with alkaline solution of pH around 9,0 and a continuous one with water of pH around 7,0. In the second stage four trickling filters were used with an approximated volume of 10 L; two were filled with sifted raw leather sawing and the two others with sifted, washed and open-air dryed leather sawing. Those filters operated in series with four other filters with an approximated volume of 30 L, filled in the same way. The 10 L filters received the efluent of an anaerobic baffled reactor and the others received the efluents of the first ones. The third stage consisted on the 30 L trickling filters alone, which were aerated and feeded with alkalinized influent. The group of filters that operated in series in the second stage presented total and fecal coliform removal efficiencies that varied around 94 and 92%, respectively. The efficiency of total BOD5 removal was around 80%. In the third stage filters presented total and fecal coliformes removal efficiencies around 98 and 99%, respectively. About BOD5 removal efficiency, it was found a value of approximately 80%. In this stage it was achieved excellent KTN and ammoniacal nitrogen removals with average removal efficiencies of 83% before alkalinization and 100% after alkalinization.

The importance of skin processing technologies, in the history and dispersal of humankind around the planet cannot be overstated. This area of material culture is often underrepresented as a research topic, and has been hampered, in part, by the lack of a systematic analysis methodology targeted at specifically this material type. This research aimed to develop a methodology for determining the tanning technologies in use during prehistory, from extant archaeologically recovered processed skin objects. The methodology is a product of macroscopic and microscopic observations of a large sample reference collection, used to produce a database of defining characteristics and tendencies for each of six tannage types. The sample collection is made up of twenty-two species identified as economically important from both Europe and North America. Six sample pieces of skin were taken from a single individual of each of the twenty-two species, and processed using six tanning technologies, the use of which covered a large geographic area and time frame. A second reference collection of clothing and utilitarian items, made from traditionally processed skins, was used to add a section of in-life use traces to the database of discriminating traits. The developed methodology was tested by examining archaeologically recovered and ethnographically collected skin objects, from museum collections across North America and Europe. Objects from many different preservation contexts, including wet, dry, and frozen sites were analysed to determine whether or not the discriminating traits survived interment. It was found that defining characteristics and tendencies do exist between the main tannage technologies, and can be recorded at multiple levels of observation. The analysis of skin objects in museum collections confirmed that at least some defining characteristics and tendencies survived in all preservation contexts. In addition, the preservation of in-life use traces proved to be diagnostic of not only tannage type, but small sections of chaîne opératoire and object biography as well. Overall, this research has demonstrated that archaeologically preserved objects made from processed skin can provide information about the tannage technologies in use prehistorically, as well as more detailed information such as manufacturing sequences and the conditions of use an object was subjected to. Thus, analysis of this nature can be used to access information on a more individual level than previously believed.

This purpose of this project presents a methodology of action for the development of social and environmental awareness in production clusters of craft basis. We studied cluster's basic craft of Dores de Campos e Prados municipalities, both from the middle slopes of Campos das Vertentes in Minas Gerais, which have in the leather craft activity its largest economy. So, based on the experiences of these two cities this study aims at constructing and validating a model for the development of social and environmental awareness in supply chains based on small-scale production clusters, specifically, the activity of leather. We used a literature search, document, contacts with local leaders, applications, interviews, analysis and tabulation of data, carrying out a socio-environmental forum and the creation and validation of methodology for the development of consciousness. As a result it was concluded, among other things, that there are important factors in contemporary and historical growth of productive clusters and also possible solutions using techniques, psychosocial management, recycling and even tax benefits. And the production clusters on based craft is a wide field which lies in the social and environmental awareness theme a vast territory to the development of several studies in the area of knowledge, it doesn`t depend not only on technical, but also on the main factor that is transforming the human being. / Este trabalho propõe uma metodologia de ação para o desenvolvimento de consciência socioambiental em aglomerados produtivos de base artesanal. Foram estudados cluster´s de base artesanal dos municípios de Dores de Campos e Prados, ambos da mesorregião do Campos das Vertentes em Minas Gerais que têm na atividade coureira de base artesanal sua maior economia. Assim, com base nas experiências dessas duas cidades o presente trabalho objetiva contribuir na construção e validação de um modelo para o desenvolvimento de consciência socioambiental em cadeias produtivas de base artesanal em aglomerados produtivos, especificamente, da atividade coureira. Foi utilizada a pesquisa bibliográfica, documental, contatos com lideranças locais, aplicações de questionários, entrevistas, análise e tabulação dos dados, realização de um fórum socioambiental e a criação e validação da proposta metodológica para o desenvolvimento de consciência. Como conseqüência pôde-se concluir, dentre outros, que há importantes fatores contemporâneos e históricos no incremento desses aglomerados produtivos e também possíveis soluções através de técnicas psicossociais, de gestão, de reciclagem e até benefícios fiscais. E que os aglomerados produtivos de base artesanal é um campo amplo que encontra no tema consciência socioambiental um vasto território para desenvolvimento de vários estudos na área do conhecimento, pois não depende só de técnicas, mas do principal fator transformador que é o ser humano.

El mundo se encuentra en un estado de cambio con las nuevas tendencias de protección del medio ambiente y las especies animales. En el Perú, estas tendencias toman fuerza con el reemplazo de productos de origen animal por materiales vegetales que se usan en la fabricación. En tal sentido, este trabajo se enfoca en desarrollar casacas fabricadas a base de cuero de piña, el cual es un material textil proveniente de las hojas de piña. Este método contribuye con el uso de elementos residuales del cultivo de esta fruta, potenciando el comercio de proveedores locales. Al mismo tiempo, se busca contribuir a la disminución de la contaminación provocada por la industria del cuero. Durante el trabajo de investigación para la validación de este proyecto se realizaron experimentos a base de encuestas, entrevistas, uso de landing page y concierge del producto. La metodología de validación permite delimitar el tamaño del mercado peruano para las casacas de cuero de piña. Se toman como potenciales clientes a las personas que buscan alternativas de vestimenta ecológica y a personas que sean afines al movimiento animalista. El potencial del mercado peruano según la información extraída en este proyecto es de aproximadamente 10 millones de soles anuales, los cuales resultan compatibles con las necesidades financieras y operativas para la fabricación y comercialización de las casacas de cuero de piña

El mundo se encuentra en un estado de cambio con las nuevas tendencias de protección del medio ambiente y las especies animales. En el Perú, estas tendencias toman fuerza con el reemplazo de productos de origen animal por materiales vegetales que se usan en la fabricación. En tal sentido, este trabajo se enfoca en desarrollar casacas fabricadas a base de cuero de piña, el cual es un material textil proveniente de las hojas de piña. Este método contribuye con el uso de elementos residuales del cultivo de esta fruta, potenciando el comercio de proveedores locales. Al mismo tiempo, se busca contribuir a la disminución de la contaminación provocada por la industria del cuero. Durante el trabajo de investigación para la validación de este proyecto se realizaron experimentos a base de encuestas, entrevistas, uso de landing page y concierge del producto. La metodología de validación permite delimitar el tamaño del mercado peruano para las casacas de cuero de piña. Se toman como potenciales clientes a las personas que buscan alternativas de vestimenta ecológica y a personas que sean afines al movimiento animalista. El potencial del mercado peruano según la información extraída en este proyecto es de aproximadamente 10 millones de soles anuales, los cuales resultan compatibles con las necesidades financieras y operativas para la fabricación y comercialización de las casacas de cuero de piña. / The following project is based on the implementation of a business idea called "Ecopiña". This business idea focuses on the production of coats made from leather which has pineapple leaves as the main supply. It is a project that offers an ecological and sustainable alternative that also avoids hurting animal life, since millions of cows are slaughtered for their skin, the most important supply for coats in the market nowadays, so this idea is a really good alternative to save animal life. Furthermore, leather made from pineapple leaves is a strong and durable material that guarantees high-quality coats. We have identified through surveys and interviews that there is a large no satisfied demand, due to several people mentioned that there are not many ecological alternatives to replace cowhide nowadays. On the other hand, we seek to implement important tools through digital platforms such as a web page and social media that allow us to have a bigger reach towards our target audience. We also worked to follow up on the interactions people generate on social media in order to validate the purchase intention of our prospective customers. To sum it up, it has been concluded that it is a high-value project that can demonstrate scalability in different markets, since it satisfies an increasing need for sustainability that gradually brings awareness to the population. / Trabajo de investigación

Junge Menschen in Dirndl und Lederhose auf Volksfesten wie dem Oktoberfest in München oder dem Wasen in Stuttgart – die­ser Anblick ist heute keine Seltenheit mehr. Doch was sind die Hinter­gründe dieses Trends? Warum kleiden sich gerade Nicht-Bayern seit Beginn des neuen Jahrtausends in bayerischer „Tracht“? Und könnte diese Entwicklung mit den aktuellen gesell­schaftlichen Lebensumständen wie Pluralität, Globalisierung und Individuali­sierung in Verbindung stehen? Diesen Fragen nähert sich diese Forschungsarbeit an, indem sich beispielhaft den Wasenbesu­chern in Stuttgart gewidmet wird. Der empirische Teil dieser Arbeit umfasst die Auswertung sechs qualitativer Episodi­scher Inter­views. Es werden die Motive des Trachtentragens, sowie die Beschrei­bung und Bewertung des subjektiven Lebens­zusammen­hangs der jungen Menschen untersucht. Im Schritt der Inter­pretation werden beide Aspekte zueinander in Bezie­hung gesetzt.

Der Verein für Gerberei-Chemie und -Technik (VGCT) wurde 1949 zur Förderung wissenschaftlicher und technischer Forschung, zum Zwecke des fachlichen Erfahrungsaustausches sowie zur Förderung des beruflichen Nachwuchses gegründet. Gegenwärtig hat er ca. 300 Mitglieder, welche sowohl einzelne Personen als auch Firmen sind. Im VGCT treffen sich Ledertechniker, Maschinenbauer, Chemiker und andere am „Ledermachen“ interessierte Menschen zum Austausch und zu gemeinsamer Arbeit. Der Verein bietet eine Plattform für den fachlichen Austausch indem er jährliche Fachtagungen und fachliche Kooperationen in firmenübergreifenden Arbeitsgruppen (Kommissionen) organisiert, technische Veröffentlichungen in der Fachpresse mit eigenen Seiten fördert und sich aktiv an Umweltschutz, Arbeitssicherheit sowie Gesundheitsschutz beteiligt. / The Association for Chemistry and Technology in Tanning (VGCT) was founded in 1949 in order to facilitate scientifi c and technical research and exchange of professional experience as well as to promote young talents. Currently it has some 300 members – single persons as well as enterprises. In the VGCT, leather technologists, mechanical engineers, chemists and other people interested in “making leather” meet in order to exchange ideas and work together. The association offers a platform for sharing professional experience by organizing annual meetings and professional co-operations in groups from across various companies (commissions), by facilitating technical publications in specialist press with own pages and actively participating in environmental protection, occupational safety and health protection.

Der Verein für Gerberei-Chemie und -Technik (VGCT) wurde 1949 zur Förderung wissenschaftlicher und technischer Forschung, zum Zwecke des fachlichen Erfahrungsaustausches sowie zur Förderung des beruflichen Nachwuchses gegründet. Gegenwärtig hat er ca. 300 Mitglieder, welche sowohl einzelne Personen als auch Firmen sind. Im VGCT treffen sich Ledertechniker, Maschinenbauer, Chemiker und andere am „Ledermachen“ interessierte Menschen zum Austausch und zu gemeinsamer Arbeit. Der Verein bietet eine Plattform für den fachlichen Austausch indem er jährliche Fachtagungen und fachliche Kooperationen in firmenübergreifenden Arbeitsgruppen (Kommissionen) organisiert, technische Veröffentlichungen in der Fachpresse mit eigenen Seiten fördert und sich aktiv an Umweltschutz, Arbeitssicherheit sowie Gesundheitsschutz beteiligt. / The Association for Chemistry and Technology in Tanning (VGCT) was founded in 1949 in order to facilitate scientifi c and technical research and exchange of professional experience as well as to promote young talents. Currently it has some 300 members – single persons as well as enterprises. In the VGCT, leather technologists, mechanical engineers, chemists and other people interested in “making leather” meet in order to exchange ideas and work together. The association offers a platform for sharing professional experience by organizing annual meetings and professional co-operations in groups from across various companies (commissions), by facilitating technical publications in specialist press with own pages and actively participating in environmental protection, occupational safety and health protection.

Für den Einfluss der Mechanisierung auf die Fabrikarchitektur der Lederindustrie ergab die bisher erschienene Literatur keine verwertbaren Zusammenhänge, die eine wissenschaftlich fundierte Analyse für den gewählten Zeitraum zulassen würde. Somit besteht die Zielsetzung der Untersuchung darin, diese Forschungsdesiderate aufzuarbeiten. Daraus ergeben sich folgende Einzelfragen: 1. Welche Standortfaktoren waren in Weinheim für die Entstehung von Industrie, insbesondere der Lederindustrie relevant? 2. Wie hat sich die Industrialisierung entwickelt und welche baulichen Anforderungen stellte sie? 3. Wekche Gebäudetypen, Konstruktionen und Baumaterialien erfüllten diese Anforderungen? 4. Welche Entwicklung nahm die Form und Gestaltung der Fabrikbauten und welche Aspekte waren dabei von Bedeutung? 5. Wie sollte der künftige denkmalpflegerische Umgang mit den vorhandenen Bauten der Lederindustrie den architektonischen Zeitzeugen der letzten 150 Jahre - erfolgen?

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