Det slängs bröd i svenska matvarubutiker i Sverige samtidigt som läderproduktion är miljöförstörande. För att mildra miljöpåverkan av konventionell lädertillverkning och matsvinn i matvarubutiker odlades filamentös svamp på brödrester för att användas som ett miljövänligt alternativ till animaliskt läder. Detta arbete undersöker ifall en ny typ av läder-liknande material kan förbättras genom att tillsätta växt-tanniner och andra naturliga ämnen till filamentös svampbiomassa vid olika steg i tillverkningsprocessen. Den filamentösa svampen Rhizopus delemar odlades med hydrolyserade brödrester från matvarubutiker som substrat, och fyra olika växt-tanniner tillsattes odlingsmediumen (Tara, Myrobalan, Quebracho, Kastanje). Av de tannin-behandlade biomassorna uppvisade material som behandlats med tara tannin efter skörd av biomassan mest läderliknande mekaniska egenskaper (dragstyrka och förlängning) medan ren, obehandlad biomassa uppvisade högst dragstyrka av alla testade material. Additionen av tanniner ökade töjningsförmågan samtidigt som dragstyrkan minskade hos de resulterande materialen. Behandling med den naturliga tvärbindaren genipin resulterade i ökad dragstyrka och förlängning för flera av materialen. Resultat från HPLC analys av odlingsmediet med tara tannin indikerade även att Rhizopus delemar använde tanninet som substrat. / Bread is thrown away in Swedish grocery stores in Sweden at the same time as leather production is environmentally destructive. In order to mitigate the environmental impact of conventional leather making and to reduce food waste, fungal mycelium was grown on bread waste to be utilized as an eco-friendly leather substitute. This work investigates whether this new type of leather-like material can be improved by adding vegetable tannins and other natural compounds to filamentous fungal biomass at different stages of the production process. The filamentous fungus Rhizopus delemar was grown in shake flasks with hydrolyzed bread as substrate and four different plant tannins were added to the growth mediums. (Tara, Myrobalan, Quebracho, Chestnut). Tara and myrobalan were not inhibitory for growth during the shake flask cultivation, so they were further used in a scaled-up cultivation using 4 L bubble column reactors. However, myrobalan tannin was inhibitory when cultivating in 4 L bubble column reactors. Out of the tannin-treated biomasses, materials treated with tara tannin post cultivation exhibited the highest mechanical properties (tensile strength and elongation), while pure, untreated biomass exhibited the highest tensile strength of all materials tested. Overall, the addition of tannins to the biomasses increased the elongational capacities while lowering the tensile strengths. Treatment with the natural crosslinking-agent genipin resulted in increased average tensile strength and elongation at break for several of the materials tested. Furthermore, HPLC analysis of culture medium containing tara tannin indicated that Rhizopus delemar was able to metabolize the tannin and use it as a substrate.

Leather has been one of the most common crafting materials in human history. With its incredible versatility it has been used for clothes, shelter, books, armour, containers, decoration, and everything in between. The boat graves from Valsgärde presents a for the time period large amount of preserved leather, allowing us to have a peek into how it was used during the late Scandinavian Iron Age. This essay focuses on which animals have been used in the making of these objects and what the choice of raw material and visible crafting skills might tell us. A total of 54 samples from the Valsgärde boat graves were analysed using the ZooMS method. Additionally, tanning methods and other related processes are discussed. The main conclusions are that while the choice of material has an important impact on the final result, it seems like the skills of the craftsperson was the most important factor affecting quality and exclusivity for an item. / Läder har varit ett av de vanligaste materialen i mänsklighetens historia. Med sin fantastiska mångsidighet har det använts till kläder, bostäder, böcker, rustningar, behållare, dekoration, och allt däremellan. Båtgravarna i Valsgärde erbjuder en för tidsperioden stor mängd bevarat läder vilket ger oss chansen att få en glimt av hur materialet användes under den sena järnåldern i Skandinavien. Den här uppsatsen fokuserar på vilka djur som använts för att tillverka dessa föremål och vad valet av råmaterial och hantverkmetoder kan säga oss. Totalt har 54 prov från Valsgärdes båtgravar analyserats med ZooMS-metoden. Därtill behandlas garvning och andra relaterade processer i läderhantverk. De huvudsakliga slutsatserna är att även om valet av råmaterial har en stor inverkan på slutresultatet så verkar hantverkarens skicklighet vara den viktigaste faktorn för kvalitet och exklusivitet i ett föremål. / <p>This thesis was made possible through funding from Västgöta Nation.</p>

Studien är ett designdrivet forskningsprojekt som besvarar frågeställningen: Vilka materiella designkvalitéer finns det i svenskt vildsvinsläder och hur kan dessa appliceras i produktdesign? Frågeställningen undersöks främst genom en material driven designmetod och resultatet analyseras genom teorier om design för hållbar utveckling och design för emotionell varaktighet. Den material drivna designmetoden inleddes med fri utforskning av materialet, första intryck dokumenterades och hypoteser kring materialet dömdes inkorrekta. För att undersöka de tekniska egenskaperna utfördes materialtester. Materialupplevelsen utforskades genom ett metodverktyg där 10 deltagare besvarade frågor kring materialets performativa, sensoriska, affektiva och tolkande egenskaper. Testerna avslutades med en reflektion av materialets positiva, negativa och unika egenskaper. Kunskapen av vildsvinslädrets designkvalitéer används sedan i en idégenerering process för att skapa en hållbar produkt med emotionell varaktighet. Idégenerering mynnar ut i studiens designförslag, en stol med dyna och ryggstöd av vildsvinsläder. Studien avslutas med en slutsats som bekräftar designkvalitéerna i vildsvinläder och en diskussion som belyser insikter som uppkommit under studiens genomförande. / The study is a design-driven research project that answers the question: What material design qualities are there in Swedish wild boar leather and how can these be applied in product design? The question is primarily investigated through a material-driven design method and results is analysed through theories of design for sustainable development and design for emotional durability. The material-driven design method began with free exploration of the material, first impressions were documented and hypotheses about the material were deemed incorrect. To investigate the technical characteristics, tests were carried out. The material experience is explored through a tool where 10 participants answered questions about the material's performative, sensory, affective, and interpretive properties. The tests ended with a reflection of the material's positive, negative, and unique properties. The knowledge of the design qualities of wild boar leather was then used in an idea generation process to create a sustainable product with emotional durability. The idea generation culminates in the study's design proposal, a chair with cushion and backrest made of wild boar leather. The study concludes with a conclusion that confirms the design qualities of wild boar leather and a discussion that highlights insights that emerged during the study's implementation.

Der Verein für Gerberei-Chemie und -Technik (VGCT) wurde 1949 zur Förderung wissenschaftlicher und technischer Forschung, zum Zwecke des fachlichen Erfahrungsaustausches sowie zur Förderung des beruflichen Nachwuchses gegründet. Gegenwärtig hat er ca. 300 Mitglieder, welche sowohl einzelne Personen als auch Firmen sind. Im VGCT treffen sich Ledertechniker, Maschinenbauer, Chemiker und andere am „Ledermachen“ interessierte Menschen zum Austausch und zu gemeinsamer Arbeit. Der Verein bietet eine Plattform für den fachlichen Austausch indem er jährliche Fachtagungen und fachliche Kooperationen in firmenübergreifenden Arbeitsgruppen (Kommissionen) organisiert, technische Veröffentlichungen in der Fachpresse mit eigenen Seiten fördert und sich aktiv an Umweltschutz, Arbeitssicherheit sowie Gesundheitsschutz beteiligt. / The Association for Chemistry and Technology in Tanning (VGCT) was founded in 1949 in order to facilitate scientifi c and technical research and exchange of professional experience as well as to promote young talents. Currently it has some 300 members – single persons as well as enterprises. In the VGCT, leather technologists, mechanical engineers, chemists and other people interested in “making leather” meet in order to exchange ideas and work together. The association offers a platform for sharing professional experience by organizing annual meetings and professional co-operations in groups from across various companies (commissions), by facilitating technical publications in specialist press with own pages and actively participating in environmental protection, occupational safety and health protection.

The research in this thesis considers novel innovative developments in established industrial processes that involve the use of recyclable polymeric particles as a partial replacement for aqueous media and chemicals. The application of the technology typically leads to water savings of over 80% and chemical savings of over 25%. These industrial processes may be characterised in that are considered inefficient and wasteful but nevertheless are considered economically vital. These diverse industries including laundry cleaning, leather manufacturing, textile garment processing, effluent treatment and metal beverage can manufacture. The outcomes of this research have made significant contributions to industrial best practice in such industries. In terms of academic research, the knowledge created in this thesis provides the basis for the application of CFD-DEM modelling to understand complex multi-phase and multi-component systems. In particular, the thesis advocates the application of the Free Surface Lattice Boltzmann Method for creating highly accurate simulations of multi-phase flow. In addition, the thesis offers opportunities for further research in novel plasma micro-reactors and their applications in diverse fields such as chemical synthesis, chemical engineering and biotechnology. The nature of the research is multi-disciplinary, and involved investigations across several fields including applied mathematics, biochemistry, chemistry, physics, and engineering. The projects also involved scale up from laboratory, pilot plant and full commercial scale production trials. Primary objectives were investigated through a series of six published patents. The three patents relating to the development of novel leather and textile processes were solely conceived and executed by the author. The patent related to the development of the plasma micro-reactor for ozone synthesis was conceived and executed jointly by the author and Professor Will Zimmerman (Sheffield University). The two patents related to the development of a novel metal cleaning and treatment process was conceived and executed jointly by the author and Dr. Robert Bird (Xeros Technology Group Limited).

Titel: Closed-loop supply chain: Implementering av utvecklat returflöde gällande begagnade handskar på HESTRA-Handsken AB. Kontext: Dagens konsumtions ökar allt mer då konsumenten ser stil och pris som en viktigare komponent än hållbarhet. För att istället öka produkters livslängd och minska dess miljöpåverkan kan en implementering av CLSC genomföras.  Syfte: I denna studie kommer CLSC att diskuteras utifrån textil- och läderindustrin. En fördjupning kommer att ske i HESTRA-Handsken AB:s omvända logistikprocess där skribenterna menar att komplettera denna. Studiens syfte blir därmed att identifiera hur företagets nuvarande returflöde kan utvecklas med målet att slutligen implementeras. Metod: Denna studie grundas i ett kvalitativt hermeneutiskt synsätt för besvarande frågeställning ett, samt en systematisk litteraturgranskning för att besvara frågeställning två. Empiriskt material har samlats in genom semi-strukturerade intervjuer där respondentvalidering har använts för att säkra att denna primärdata håller hög kvalitet. För att finna vetenskapligt granskade artiklar till teoriavsnittet har sökningar gjorts i databasen BSU. Vidare har mönsterjämförelse tillämpats för att analysera resultatet utifrån studiens frågeställningar. Resultat: Denna studie visar på att det finns potential hos HESTRA-Handsken AB att utveckla dess nuvarande returflöde. Studiens skribenter menar på att ett prisdiskrimineringsalternativ kan tillämpas för att öka inflödet av returer. Det finns ett intresse och engagemang hos ledningen till att utöka dess hållbarhetsprofil och detta är ett ypperligt exempel på det. Implementering är möjlig genom att antingen se till Dowlatshahis 11 förståelser för framgångsrik implementering, Lacys fem affärsmodeller eller Kirons fem innovationsmetoder. Bidrag: Studien bidrar med en litterär genomgång av ämnet CLSC och mer ingående returer samt återbruk. Sedermera ges praktiskt bidrag till HESTRA-Handsken AB, i form av förslag om hur dess nuvarande returflöde har potential att utvecklas och hur en implementering kan utformas. Slutligen kan andra företag, likt HESTRA-Handsken AB, se till denna studie för att tilldelas förslag kring hur dess returflöde kan utvecklas samt vad som bör beaktas vid en implementering av detta. Nyckelord: Closed-loop supply chain, returer, återbruk, begagnat, textil, läder / Title: Closed-loop supply chain: Implementation of developed return flow regarding used gloves at HESTRA-Handsken AB. Context: Today's consumption is increasing more and more as the consumer sees style and price as a more important component than sustainability. To increase the lifespan of products and reduce their environmental impact, an implementation of CLSC can be worth pursuing.  Purpose: The objective of this study is to investigate the CLSC based on the textile and leather industry. A deepened study will take in HESTRA-Handsken AB´s reverse logistics process, where the writers intend to supplement this. The purpose of the study will thus be to identify how the company's current return flow can be developed with the goal of finally being implemented.  Method: This study is based on a qualitative hermeneutic approach to being able to answer question one, as well as a systematic literature review to answer question two. Empirical material has been collected through semi-structured interviews where respondent validation has been used to ensure that this primary data is of high quality. To find peer reviewed articles for the theory section, searches have been made in the BSU database. Furthermore, pattern comparison has been applied to analyze the results based on the study´s questions.  Results: This study shows that there is potential at HESTRA-Handsken AB to develop its current return flow. The study´s authors believe that a price discrimination alternative can be applied to increase the inflow of returns. There is an interest and commitment on the part of management to expand its sustainability profile and this is an excellent example of this. Implementation is possible by either looking at Dowlatshahi´s 11 understandings of successful implementation, Lacy´s five business models, or Kiron´s five innovation methods.  Contribution: The study contributes with a literary review of the subject CLSC and focuses on returns and recycling. Furthermore, a practical contribution is given to HESTRA-Handsken AB, with suggestions on how their current return flow can be developed and how an implementation can be designed. Finally, other companies can look at this study to be assigned proposals on how its return flow can be developed and what should be taken into account when implementing this. Keywords: Closed-loop supply chain, returns, recycling, used, textile, leather

The South African leather industry has undergone a significant transformation since the 1990’s and this can be attributed primarily owing to two major factors that occurred. The first being trade liberalisation, which meant the fall of trade barriers, and the second being the Motor Industry Development Programme (MIDP), which was implemented in South Africa on 1 September 1995. The MIDP was implemented in the context of the country’s political and economic liberalisation, and the major structural shift in government policy and the trade regime. South Africa became much more globally integrated and the South African leather industry benefited because of this, as well as the incentives that was offered under the MIDP. Automotive exports of stitched leather seat parts responded positively to the incentives offered under the MIDP and stitched leather seat parts, as a component under the MIDP, became one of the best performing components being exported from South Africa. The MIDP had been terminated at the end of 2012 and is now being followed by government’s latest rendition of automotive policy, namely the Automotive Production and Development Programme (APDP). The APDP focuses on value addition, which pursues beneficiation of the country’s raw materials to the final stages, to ensure maximum benefit to the South African economy. The findings of the study entail that the South African leather industry is now in a vulnerable state because of the new automotive policy. This is mainly because the APDP does not provide the same level, or type, of incentives that the MIDP had provided to the industry. / Business Management / M. Com. (Business Management)

由歷史的遞嬗，通貨膨脹著實困擾著不同地區、不同制度的人們。通貨膨脹的發生往 往影響經濟個體的工作、儲蓄、理想，經濟學家為了探究通貨膨脹對社會的危害，著 手研究通貨膨脹所帶來的福利成本。本文嘗試以一宏觀的角度來分析這個問題。 本文除前言、結論之外，共分三大部份，第一部份為傳統靜態分析，以Bailey及Phe- lps 的模型及Fischer 的模型為主，前者認為通貨膨脹宛如對貨幣課稅，即通貨膨脹 稅，其稅額應為通貨膨脹率乘以實貨貨幣余額

Dans le cadre de la protection de l’environnement et du consommateur, CTC effectue des tests enchimie analytique sur de nombreux paramètres en matrices aqueuses, cuir et textile. Les nouvelles substancesmises sur le marché ainsi que les réglementations évoluant sans cesse, le développement de nouvellesméthodes d’analyses est donc nécessaire.Plusieurs méthodes analytiques ont ainsi été développées. Pour l’analyse des rejets d’effluents industriels desinstallations classées et pour l’analyse d’innocuité de produits utilisant le cuir ou le textile (chaussures,maroquinerie, prêt-à-porter…).Les chloroalcanes ont été dosés en chromatographie gazeuse (GC) associée à la spectrométrie de masse (MS)utilisant l’ionisation chimique, à la fois en matrices aqueuses (limite de quantification, LQ, à 0,6 μg/l) et sur lescuirs (LQ à 2 mg/kg).Une analyse des alkylphénols et alkylphénols ethoxylates a été développée pour les matrices aqueuses parGC/MS (LQ à 0,05 μg/l).Plusieurs familles de retardateurs de flammes ont ensuite été étudiées. Les polybromodiphénylethers peuventêtre dosés dans les eaux (LQ<0,05 µl) et le cuir (LQ <= µg/kg), par GC/MS en ionisationchimique.L’hexabromocyclododécane et des organophosphates, par chromatographie liquide et spectrométrie de masseen tandem pour des matrices textiles (LQ à 6 mg/kg). Des hydrocarbures aromatiques polycycliques dans le cuir ont ensuite été analysés par GC/MS-MS (LQ à 250 μg/kg).Enfin, une méthode multirésidus portant sur plusieurs familles de micropolluants organiques a été mise aupoint en GC/MS pour les rejets d’effluents (LQ <0,1 µg/l) / Taking in account the increasing needs and demands in environmental and consumer protection, CTCis always seeking improvement in analytical methods and development of new ones dealing with leather,fabrics and aqueous samples. In this thesis, several new methods were developed to be able to handleanalytical requests dealing with leather and textile materials being parts of shoes, clothes and other leathergoods.A GC/MS method using chemical ionization was developed to detect short polychlorinated alkanes down to aconcentration of 0.6 μg/L in aqueous sample and 2 mg/kg in leather samples. Alkylphenols and theirethoxylates were similarly determined by GC/MS down to 0.05 μg/L.Flame retardants are another large class of chemicals becoming suspicious. Polybromodiphenylethers weredetermined in aqueous samples and leathers. The respective GC/MS highest limits of quantification (LOQ)were0.05 µg/l and 80 μg/kg. Other members of this class are hexabromocyclododecane andorganophosphates. Both were determined by LC/MS-MS with LOQ of about 6 mg/kg.Carcinogenic polyaromatic hydrocarbons were also determined in leather samples using GC/MS-MS down to250 μg/kg.The last improved GC/MS analytical method was handling sewage sludge seeking multi residues of organicpolluants down to the 0.1 µg/l level or below. The analytical performances developed or improved allowedfor an efficient and useful control of the various sample received from the CTC customers and followinginternational quality rules

Made available in DSpace on 2017-07-10T18:13:18Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Vagner G do Nascimento Santos.pdf: 737293 bytes, checksum: 215cd14e7ef5511f62d6ac5c039de05c (MD5) Previous issue date: 2015-09-04 / Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior / The objective of this paper was to evaluate the corporal revenues, determine the chemical composition of the filet and evaluate the physical-mechanic resistance of the Nile tilapia leather (Oreochromis niloticus) produced in dug fishponds and cages. The results obtained of the corporal characteristics , the revenues results, the morphometric relations, the chemical composition of the filets and the physical-mechanic tests of the tilapia leather from both raising systems have undergone variance analysis (ANOVA). When statistic differences were observed (p<0,05), the Tukey test was applied in 5% of significance, using the software Statistica7.1. Significant differences were observed (p<0,05) for the average values of corporal characteristics between both raising systems for the total and standard length, total weight, pectoral fin and filet weight. As for the morphometric relations, chemical composition of the filets and the resistance of the leather significant differences were not observed (p>0,05). Therefore it is concluded that the systems did not influence on the corporal revenue, morphometric relations, quality of the meat and in the physical-mechanic tests of the leather. / Este estudo objetivou-se avaliar o rendimento corporal, determinar a composição química do filé e avaliar a resistência físico-mecânica do couro de tilápia do Nilo (Oreochromis niloticus) produzida em viveiros escavados e tanques-rede. Os resultados obtidos para as características corporais, os resultados de rendimentos, as relações morfométricas, a composição química dos filés e os testes físico-mecânicos do couro de tilápia de ambos os sistemas de criação foram submetidos à análise de variância (ANOVA), e quando observado diferenças estatísticas (p<0,05), aplicou-se o teste de Tukey a 5% de significância, utilizando o software Statistica 7.1. Foram observadas diferenças significativas (p<0,05) para os valores médios das características corporais entre os dois tipos de criação para o comprimento total e padrão, peso total, nadadeira peitoral e peso do filé. Quanto às relações morfométricas, composição química dos filés e resistência do couro, não foram observadas diferenças significativas (p>0,05). Portanto conclui-se que os sistemas de cultivo não influenciaram no rendimento corporal, relações morfométricas, composição da carne e nos testes físico-mêcanicos do couro.