This work positions itself in the intersection between art, fashion and crafts. The work aims to challenge traditional ways of making clothes by investigating the relationship between material, form and body through a three dimensional hand weaving technique with focus on up-cycling. The design examples were conducted through a series of experiments where different objects were investigated as alternative weaving looms. The study resulted in five design examples that argue the importance to maintain and develop craft techniques and to give suggestions of how to address the environmental problems within the industry.

Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior / The present research is embedded in the program of graduate studies in education at the doctoral level, UFSM, linked to the research line Formation, Knowledge and Professional Development. It articulates two investigative assumptions: the 1st interweaves the education trajectories of seven trainers in the course of pedagogy at UFSM (Master Research/2006). The second assumption conveys the marks that influence the graduates continued educational choices, which made themselves by interacting with their trainers between 2006 and 2008. The delimitation of the related period is justified by considering two aspects: year of Master s research and considerable time margin between the completion of the initial training and continuing education choices. The qualitative methodology involves the analysis of narrative content made with 12 subjects. It aims to understand in what perspective the teaching education trajectories of the trainers, which are stitching the interactions, are present as influence to graduates as they make their continuing educational choices. Theorists and authors that subsidize theoretically the findings of this research are: Isaia (2003;2006;2010), Josso (2004), Heller (1982), Abraham (1986), Fillux (2004), Laville (2004), Bosi (2003), Viella (2003), Fernandes (1999), Romanowski (2007; 2011), Cunha (2008; 2010), Souto (1999), Moraes (2007), Freire(1996), Deshaies (1992), Terré (1998) among others. The data that subsidized the study were obtained primarily from two instruments: a questionnaire and a personal timeline professional. The semi-structured questionnaire showed the identification of trainers remembered by graduates without those they knew the selection criteria to integrate the research would be the point between the forty names presented, at least 2 of the 7 trainers which were subject of masters research/2006. With the survey data, already held, a timeline was drafted by professional staff selected. The information brought, were organized between what we call Points Articulators Benchmarks (PAR1,2 and 3). Each of these Pairs delimited the period in which the events brought about by participants ' memory happened between before, during and after the course of pedagogy. The information brought by the timeline have resulted in three pre categories of analysis that if transformed into three categories themselves: 1a) Wires of Weaving Formation; 2a) Formative subjectivity; 3a) Marks Teachers. The resulting narratives of individual interviews qualified points seconded by subject, in their timelines, subsidizing with important elements, the weaving of all these memories. The results revealed the formative influences teachers as brands that are part of what we call natural formation loom. This, interweaving relations as mediated by significant dimension wires that subjectivities and the inter-subjective weave. The resulting weave features the formative weaving articulated between relations that have taken place in the classroom in situations of study/formal education and those who had been initiated in the classroom have evolved far beyond this dimension entering not only as indicative for continue education choices but, as references that give theoretical, ethical and professional relief to personal life choices. In the ranking of formative influences the choices are dependent on the dimension of the wires with relational weaving, assume as arising from the dynamic that inserts a variety of situations in life and profession. / A presente pesquisa está inserida no Programa de Pós-Graduação em Educação da UFSM, em nível de Doutorado, vinculado à Linha de Pesquisa Formação, Saberes e Desenvolvimento Profissional. Articula dois pressupostos investigativos: o 1º entrelaça as trajetórias de formação docente de sete formadores no Curso de Pedagogia da UFSM (Pesquisa de Mestrado/2006). O 2º pressuposto veicula as marcas que influenciam, nos egressos, as escolhas formativas continuadas que se deram pela interação com seus formadores entre 2006 e 2008. A delimitação do período relacionado se justifica por considerar dois aspectos: ano de término da pesquisa de mestrado e margem de tempo considerável entre a finalização da formação inicial e as escolhas de formação continuada. A metodologia qualitativa envolve a análise de conteúdo das narrativas realizadas com 12 sujeitos. Objetiva compreender em que perspectiva as trajetórias de formação docente dos formadores a partir das interações, ao longo do curso, estão presentes como influência nas escolhas formativas continuadas dos egressos. Os autores que subsidiam os achados da pesquisa são: Isaia (2003; 2006; 2010), Josso (2004), Heller (1982), Abraham (1986), Fillux (2004), Laville (2004), Bosi (2003), Viella (2003), Fernandes (1999), Romanowski (2007; 2011), Cunha (2008; 2010), Souto (1999), Moraes (2007), Freire (1996), Deshaies (1992), Terré (1998) entre outros. Os dados que subsidiaram o estudo foram obtidos primeiramente a partir de dois instrumentos: um questionário e uma linha de tempo pessoal profissional. O questionário semiestruturado apurou a identificação dos formadores lembrados pelos egressos sem que esses soubessem que o critério de seleção para integrar a pesquisa seria o de apontar entre os quarenta nomes apresentados, no mínimo 2 dos 7 formadores que foram sujeitos da pesquisa de Mestrado/2006. Com o levantamento de dados já realizado, uma linha de tempo pessoal profissional foi elaborada pelos selecionados. As informações trazidas, foram organizadas entre o que chamamos de Pontos Articuladores Referenciais (PAR1, 2 e 3). Cada um desses PARes delimitou o período em que os acontecimentos trazidos pela memória dos participantes aconteceram entre antes, durante e depois do curso de Pedagogia. As informações trazidas pela linha de tempo deram origem a três pré-categorias de análise que se transformaram em três categorias propriamente ditas: 1a) Fios da Tecedura Formativa; 2a) A Subjetividade Formativa; 3a) Marcas Docentes. As narrativas resultantes das entrevistas individuais qualificaram os pontos destacados pelos sujeitos, em suas linhas de tempo, subsidiando com elementos importantes, a tecedura do conjunto dessas memórias. Os resultados revelaram as influências formativas docentes como marcas que fazem parte do que chamamos de tear formativo singular. Este, intercostura relações como fios mediados pela dimensão significativa que as subjetividades e as intersubjetividades tecem. As teceduras resultantes apresentam a estampa formativa articulada entre as relações que se deram em sala de aula em situações de estudo/ensino convencional e aquelas que mesmo tendo sido iniciadas na sala de aula evoluíram para muito além dessa dimensão adentrando não somente como indicativo para as escolhas de formação continuada mas, como referências que dão relevo teórico, ético e profissional às escolhas de vida pessoal. Na tecedura formativa as escolhas são dependentes da dimensão que os fios relacionais dessa tecedura, assumem como resultantes da dinâmica que insere situações variadas de vida e profissão.

This thesis is concerned with textile production in Middle and Late Bronze Age on the Greek continent and western Anatolia. First part explains the description of methodology of approach to textile manifacture in the studied area, followed by description and properties of threads used to weave the cloths, as well as technologies used in their making. Terms related to textile are mentioned on clay tablets with linear writing B, hence the thesis engages in their interpretation and comparison between particular centres. Second part analyses tools used in textile manifacture, namely whorls and loom weights based on their shape. Then follows topographic overview of the most prominent localities of textile manifacture in which textile-making tools were found. Localities not included in the overview are mentioned in the table. The overview describes locality, number and types of whorls and loom weights and what materials are they made of. Whenever possible, the most important specification is mentioned - the weight - based on which the type of weaved textile is described. The aim of the thesis is to create overview of localities with tools used in textile making as well as their analysis and comparison. Collected data are converted into tables, graphs and maps. In the last part called discussion,...

CAPES / A indústria têxtil gera grande volume de efluente de elevada carga orgânica e coloração pela presença de corantes residuais. Devido às implicações ambientais causadas se têm buscado formas de remover esses compostos dos efluentes. O processo de adsorção é considerado eficiente na remoção de corantes dos efluentes e materiais de baixo custo tais como resíduos agroindustriais (e.g. bagaço de cana-de-açúcar) e industriais (e.g. resíduo de algodão dos teares ou pó de varredura – PV) normalmente modificados quimicamente se mostram como uma alternativa de tratamento. Foram inseridos grupamentos amino quaternário (DEAE+) e metil carboxílico (CM-) na estrutura celulósica do PV com o objetivo de gerar uma capacidade de troca nesta matriz inicialmente inerte e consolidar a capacidade de sequestro de corantes têxteis. As matrizes iônicas obtidas foram avaliadas em relação: pH do ponto de carga zero (pHpcz), eficiência da retenção de corantes têxteis em diferentes condições experimentais (e.g. concentração inicial, temperatura, tempo de contato) a fim de determinar os parâmetros cinéticos e termodinâmicos do processo de adsorção em batelada, biodegradabilidade das matrizes saturadas com corante, regeneração das matrizes e avaliação em amostras de efluente têxtil real. Foi observada alteração do pHpcz das matrizes CM--PV (6,07) e DEAE+-PV (9,66) em comparação ao material nativo (6,46), comprovando alteração na carga superficial total. As matrizes se mostraram eficientes para a remoção dos corantes têxteis avaliados nas condições experimentais. Os dados cinéticos do processo de adsorção se ajustaram melhor ao modelo de pseudosegunda ordem, sendo que o modelo de difusão intrapartícula sugere um processo multi-etapas. O tempo necessário para o sistema atingir o equilíbrio variou conforme a concentração inicial da solução de corante, sendo mais rápido em soluções mais diluídas. O modelo de isoterma de Langmuir se ajustou melhor aos dados experimentais. A capacidade máxima de adsorção variou de forma distinta para cada corante, estando relacionada à interação adsorvente/adsorvato e a estrutura química do corante. Poucos corantes obtiveram uma variação linear da constante de equilibro (ka) em função do inverso da temperatura e puderam ter seu comportamento termodinâmico avaliado. Destes, os corantes BR18:1 e AzL apresentaram características de um processo de adsorção endotérmico (ΔH° positivo), já o VmL de processo exotérmico (ΔH° negativo). Os valores de ΔG° sugerem que a adsorção ocorre de forma espontânea, exceto para o corante BY28, e os valores de ΔH° indicam que a adsorção se dá pelo processo de quimiossorção. Houve redução de 31 a 51% da biodegradabilidade das matrizes carregadas com os corantes. O ensaio de regeneração indicou que as matrizes podem ser reutilizadas pelo menos até cinco vezes sem perda de desempenho. A matriz DEAE+-PV mostrou-se eficiente para a remoção de coloração presente em efluente têxtil, atingindo uma redução da área espectral UV-Visível de até 93 % (proporção de 15 g da matriz por litro de efluente). A gama de matéria colorida removida por parte das matrizes variou de 40,27 a 98,65 mg g-1 de matriz ionizada, dependendo da estrutura. / The textile industry generates a large volume of high organic effluent loading whoseintense color arises from residual dyes. Due to the environmental implications caused by this category of contaminant there is a permanent search for methods to remove these compounds from industrial waste waters. The adsorption alternative is one of the most efficient ways for such a purpose of sequestering/remediation and the use of inexpensive materials such as agricultural residues (e.g., sugarcane bagasse) and cotton dust waste (CDW) from weaving in their natural or chemically modified forms. The inclusion of quaternary amino groups (DEAE+) and methylcarboxylic (CM-) in the CDW cellulosic structure generates an ion exchange capacity in these formerly inert matrix and, consequently, consolidates its ability for electrovalent adsorption of residual textile dyes. The obtained ionic matrices were evaluated for pHpcz, the retention efficiency for various textile dyes in different experimental conditions, such as initial concentration , temperature, contact time in order to determine the kinetic and thermodynamic parameters of adsorption in batch, turning comprehensive how does occur the process, then understood from the respective isotherms. It was observed a change in the pHpcz for CM--CDW (6.07) and DEAE+-CDW (9.66) as compared to the native CDW (6.46), confirming changes in the total surface charge. The ionized matrices were effective for removing all evaluated pure or residual textile dyes under various tested experimental conditions. The kinetics of the adsorption process data had best fitted to the model a pseudosecond order and an intraparticle diffusion model suggested that the process takes place in more than one step. The time required for the system to reach equilibrium varied according to the initial concentration of dye, being faster in diluted solutions. The isotherm model of Langmuir was the best fit to the experimental data. The maximum adsorption capacity varied differently for each tested dye and it is closely related to the interaction adsorbent/adsorbate and dye chemical structure. Few dyes obtained a linear variation of the balance ka constant due to the inversion of temperature and might have influence form their thermodynamic behavior. Dyes that could be evaluated such as BR 18: 1 and AzL, showed features of an endothermic adsorption process (ΔH° positive) and the dye VmL presented exothermic process characteristics (ΔH° negative). ΔG° values suggested that adsorption occurred spontaneously, except for the BY 28 dye, and the values of ΔH° indicated that adsorption occurred by a chemisorption process. The reduction of 31 to 51% in the biodegradability of the matrix after the dye adsorption means that they must go through a cleaning process before being discarded or recycled, and the regeneration test indicates that matrices can be reused up to five times without loss of performance. The DEAE+-CDW matrix was efficient for the removal of color from a real textile effluent reaching an UV-Visible spectral area decrease of 93% when applied in a proportion of 15 g ion exchanger matrix L-1 of colored wastewater, even in the case of the parallel presence of 50 g L-1 of mordant salts in the waste water. The wide range of colored matter removal by the synthesized matrices varied from 40.27 to 98.65 mg g-1 of ionized matrix, obviously depending in each particular chemical structure of the dye upon adsorption.

The lives of women are largely hidden in the Old Testament. New archaeological investigationsinto the households of Iron Age I have brought forward new evidence that sheds light on theauthority status and roles of women in the pre-monarchic tribal community. Conventional theory perceives that women were always oppressed and marginalised under a malevolentsystem of male rule in the Bible. The evidence indicates differently. Investigations in thedomestic sphere, where the household processes were under women’s control and management, imply that women held authority that was equal to male power in the public domain. It has been revealed that women held significant positions in the public sphere as well.This study, therefore, is an investigation into women’s status and the wide-ranging socioeconomicand religious roles they held within a system of male rule that allowed women theirauthority and autonomy in a unique period of Israelite history. / Biblical and Ancient Studies / M. Th. (Biblical Archaeology)