In recent times sustainability is a leading characteristic of textile fashion products. Textile fashion companies are focusing more on sustainable products these days, so that they can meet the environmental and social aspects. For getting competitive advantage in fashion business the companies have to take care of social, political and economical issues, and they must be aware of current trends of the market. Sustainable fibres provide solution for the companies facing issues regarding environmental problems; these fibres are also favorable to meet the market demands of quality products these days. The main objective of this report is to use the sustainable materials in fashion garments; the report contains rich information about two natural sustainable fibres (organic cotton and Bamboo), that describes the brief history, biography, development, processing, application and uses of these fibres. This report briefly describes the advantages and disadvantages of these fibres and underlines the usage of these fibres by famous designers, and by many top brands and fashion companies for their competitive advantage and brand image. The report highlights the potentials of using these materials in textile fashion products and describes that high fashion and quality products can be made by these products to guarantee the environmental and social standards / Program: Magisterutbildning i Applied Textile Management

Syftet med vår uppsats var att undersöka vilken kunskap den svenska konsumenten har om ekologisk bomull samt om de handlar kläder av ekologisk bomull. Vi genomförde en enkätstudie med både kvalitativa och kvantitativa inslag. Enkätundersökningen utfördes i centrala Göteborg vid fem tillfällen under april. Både män och kvinnor mellan 20-60 år tillfrågades. Vid analysen av enkäterna valde vi att ta ut statistik i diagram och tabeller. Vi analyserade även de öppna frågorna genom att göra en beskrivande analys där vi tog ut återkommande svar. Resultatet indikerar på skillnader mellan män och kvinnors köpbeteende av ekologiska bomullskläder. Även intresse och kunskap varierade mellan könen. Resultatet visar att design och priset på plagget är viktiga faktorer som spelar in om den svenska konsumenten ska handla kläder av ekologisk bomull. I diskussionen diskuteras skillnader mellan kvinnor och mäns köpbeteenden enligt vårt resultat. Även vissa skillnader i svaren mellan de olika åldersgrupperna tas upp.Our purpose was to examine the awareness of organic cotton amongst Swedish consumers and whether or not they purchase products made with organic cotton.We carried out a survey with a qualitative method and quantitative segments.In central Gothenburg, we asked men and women, between the ages of 20-60 to fill out our questionnaire. This was carried out within five occasions in April.Upon analysis of the completed questionnaires, we chose to withdraw statistics using diagrams and tables. We also analysed the open questions by doing a descriptive analysis and pick out reoccurring answers. Our results indicate the differences in habitual consumerist behaviour between men and women when purchasing organic cotton.The interest and knowledge of the subject varied noticeably between the sexes.The result shows us that the design and the price of the product are important factors when the consumer is faced with the option of purchasing organic cotton.During our discussion, we bring up the differences between male and female consumerist behaviour. We also discuss how differential the questionnaires were between the age-groups. / Program: Textil produktutveckling med entreprenörs- och affärsinriktning

The purpose of this research was to evaluate and compare the performance, aesthetic and material properties of women’s t-shirts composed of three different sustainable fibers (lyocell, organic cotton, and viscose from bamboo) before and after repeated home laundering. A convenience sample was comprised of thirty-nine t-shirts. Thirteen black t-shirts from each fiber content were used for testing according to ASTM and AATCC standards. The evaluations and measurements were performed initially and after wash intervals one, five, ten, and twenty. The t-shirts were tested for fabric weight, fabric count, color fastness, smoothness appearance, pilling, dimensional stability and skewness.

The purpose of the thesis is to reveal and address macro-environmental sustainability problems in thefashion industry. A qualitative research approach was used to reach the purpose. Throughout the empirics, theexisting literature was studied, and two case studies were carried out. The one about Hennes and Mauritz isbased on secondary data by using its sustainability report, and in the other case, primary data were obtainedabout Ekovaruhuset, an ecological fashion company, through a face-to-face interview. It was found that thefashion industry has a significant environmental impact and often violates the fair labour practices throughout itssupply chain. The root causes of the unsustainable operation are the labour-intensity, water and chemicalintensity throughout the fashion supply chain, and the lack of political and legal regulations in the producingcountries. These problems can be addressed by careful sourcing, and higher control over the cotton growers,fabric mills and suppliers. In addition, using and developing eco-friendly raw materials, like organic cotton, andfabrics reduce the environmental impact. It can be concluded that there is much room for sustainabledevelopment in the fashion industry, but there are corporate social and environmental responsibility endeavoursfrom both small and big companies.

Human beings¡¦ attire evolves, starting from having the functions of providing comfort and keeping warm in the primary stage, and then it is for looking good and fashion; then, attire becomes the symbol of demonstrating personal taste, fashion and social identity; finally, it evolves into the tendency to demonstrate personal value¡X the value performance of health tendency, environmental protection appeal, and green consumption. As the era evolves, consumers¡¦ demand and preferences have different tendencies. Under the planning of market segmentation, aiming at the attire materials based on health appeal, we hope to understand further: in such an era with fast changes in upgraded techniques, consumers¡¦ preferences and prices, what factors make consumers choose and buy? Hence, when companies are making product and marketing plans further, they can make them exquisite and conform to trendy fashion. Therefore, this study has explored the key success factors aimed at developing attire of healthful materials. Through questionnaire surveys for experts and scholars on the study of the key success factors aimed at developing attire of healthful materials, this study had made two times of analyses of AHP verification and statistics, in order to verify and extend the gained results by AHP. The study results in the second time have been adopted, and the following viewpoints have been proposed at the same time: 1. As for the study on the key success factors for developing attire of healthful materials, through two times of AHP data analyses, this study is of the opinion that the key factors are the six items: ¡§physiological comfort¡¨, ¡§functionality capability¡¨, ¡§manufacturing quality and craft techniques¡¨, ¡§style and design, ergonomics¡¨, ¡§user experience¡¨ and ¡§price¡¨. 2. In the evaluation indicators chosen for the third-layer reference plan in the structure of this study, when the direction is based on developing attire of healthful materials, obviously silk material is superior to organic cotton, while organic cotton is superior to bamboo-carbon fiber. 3. Under different considerations, silk material possesses considerably large advantage in the four key factors: ¡§physiological comfort¡¨, ¡§manufacturing quality and craft techniques¡¨, ¡§user experience¡¨ , and ¡§declaring personality and personal value¡¨. Organic cotton also possesses considerable advantage in the factors of ¡§style and design, ergonomics¡¨, and ¡§brand¡¨. Bamboo-carbon material has advantage of product development in the three items: ¡§price¡¨, ¡§trendy fashion¡¨, and ¡§functionality capability¡¨.

Doctor of Philosophy / Department of Apparel, Textiles, and Interior Design / Marsha A. Dickson / The blending of small percentages of organic cotton has been a successful way for apparel manufacturers to introduce organic cotton into their supply chain. However, little is known on how consumers perceive small percentage blended organic cotton apparel products. The purpose of this study was twofold. One goal was to identify the groups of consumers who might be interested in buying blended organic cotton clothes and find out what kind of labeling they preferred. The second goal was to find out more about the consumer’s attitudes and interest in purchasing the organic cotton clothing. Theory in consumer behavior, and social psychology provided the conceptual framework for the study. Major variables included in the study were environmental attitudes, attitudes of the consumers and important other people towards organic cotton clothing, skepticism toward environmental product claims, consumer self-identity, and future purchase intention. Data were collected with a mail survey of consumers, stratified by state population, that was randomly drawn from a national mailing list of health and natural foods consumers (usable response rate=14.9%, n=422). Factor analysis uncovered latent variables from among the large number of items. Conjoint analysis revealed which product attributes were salient and cluster analysis identified segments of consumers with different attribute preferences. Finally, multiple regression analysis was used to examine the causal relationships among variables affection future purchase intention. Percentage of organic cotton content, price, and labeling for fairly traded fibers and donations to cancer research were all attributes used by the consumers to decide how likely the would be to purchase an organic cotton t-shirt. Two segments of consumers (53%) used the percentage of organic cotton more than any other attribute to decide their purchase likelihood. Results from the multiple regression were used to make a model of socially responsible consumer behavior. The research makes numerous contributions. Apparel manufacturers will benefit from knowing that seeing even small percentages of organic fiber helps consumers decide to purchase organic clothing. Theoretical contributions include the determination that the relationship between future purchase intention and both self-identity and the personal norm is mediated by the consumers’ evaluation of outcomes of the purchase.

El presente trabajo de investigación radica en crear una idea de negocio innovadora que pueda llenar una necesidad actual y ser factible de ejecutar. Durante la investigación se pudo identificar mediante entrevistas de profundidad que las madres se encuentran preocupadas por mantener a sus bebes cerca de ellas para brindarles la misma seguridad y protección que sentían antes del nacimiento. Por esta razón nace Ayllu Perú SRL una idea de negocio que consiste en elaborar y comercializar fulares con telares andinos de algodón orgánico. Para el desarrollo del presente trabajo se cuenta con personas con experiencia en administración, finanzas, publicidad y ventas. La inversión total que se requiere para poner en marcha el negocio es S/248,777 soles, de los cuales el 55% será financiado por inversión propia y el 45% por terceros. El proyecto de fabricación y comercialización de fulares con tejido andino es viable porque la tasa interna de retorno 81.10% que ofrece el proyecto supera la rentabilidad exigida por los inversionistas 31.25%. Los inversionistas recuperan su inversión, obtienen la rentabilidad deseada y adicionalmente reciben S/ 157,916.05 expresados en términos del año cero. Consideramos inicialmente que es importante que las ventas estén dirigidas al mercado nacional y posteriormente se evaluará la posibilidad de ingresar al mercado externo. / The present research is about creating an innovative business idea that can fill a current need and is feasible to execute. During the investigation was possible to identify through in-depth interviews that mothers are concerned about keeping their babies close to provide the same safety and protection they felt before to birth. For this reason, Ayllu is a business idea that consists on developing and marketing the organic cotton baby carrier with andean looms. For the development of this project its needed professionals in administration, finance, advertising and sales. The total investment required to start the business is S / 248,777 soles, 55% will be financed by own investment and 45% by third parties. The manufacturing and conversion project of organic cotton baby carriers is viable because the internal rate of return 81.10% offers the project exceeds the profitability demanded by investors 31.25%. Investors recover their investment, receive the desired return and additionally receive S/157,916.05 expressed in terms of year zero. The company considered important that sales are delivered to the national market and then will evaluate the possibility of entering to an external market. / Trabajo de investigación

Jeans is a clothing segment that has had a lasting popularity over many years. The intenseproduction of jeans has led to a discussion on the environmental effects that the jeanscontribute to. Cotton, which is the main material used to make jeans, is a water and chemicalintensive crop which today is involved in discussions on whether there are other moresustainable alternatives to conventional cotton. Organically grown cotton does not usesynthetic fertilizers, pesticides or growth regulators, which has made many people andcompanies believe it is a more sustainable alternative to conventionally grown cotton. J.Lindeberg is a Swedish fashion company which produce jeans made from bothconventional and organic cotton today, however, they have a goal to increase the use oforganic cotton to decrease the negative environmental effects from the jeans. Therefore, thismaster thesis aims to determine if jeans made from conventional or organic cotton has ahigher environmental performance. This is done by taking environmental effects through theentire life cycle into account by making a life cycle assessment of two pairs of jeans made byJ.Lindeberg, Jay Devout made from conventional cotton and Jay Solid Stretch made fromorganic cotton. To reach the aim, three research questions are formulated: Which style of jeans, Jay Devout or Jay Solid Stretch, has the highest potential lifecycle environmental performance? Will the change from conventional cotton to organic cotton in the jeans align with thesustainability goals set by J.Lindeberg? Are there any possible risks or trade-offs associated with the shift from conventionalto organic cotton? The LCA was performed with data from four supplying companies of J.Lindeberg and theresults show that Jay Devout, made from conventional cotton, have a higher environmentalperformance when including the entire life cycle. However, the impacts from the productionis not dependent on the cotton being conventional or organic and therefore, to conclude ifJ.Lindeberg is making the right choice by changing from conventional to organic cotton, thecomparison should only include the cotton cultivation phase. When comparing the cottoncultivation phase of the conventional and organic systems, the results show that the organiccotton has a higher environmental performance. This suggests that the change fromconventional cotton to organic cotton will in fact contribute to lower negative environmentalimpacts. Furthermore, the change from conventional to organic cotton aligns with most of thesustainability goals set by J.Lindeberg. Jay Devout, made from conventional cotton, had a higher negative impact on most of theimpact categories connected to toxicity, which supports the choice of changing to organiccotton, since J.Lindeberg has a goal to reduce the chemicals in their products. Overall, thetwo jeans performed differently on different impact categories, however a similarity is thatthe production phase is a hotspot for both jeans. There is a risk of trade-offs regarding theimpact categories water consumption, global warming and fossil resource scarcity whenincluding all phases of the life cycle, and to avoid this, increased transparency andtraceability is required in the supply chain to enable thorough sustainability work. Arecommendation is to demand the use of renewable sources for electricity production in allsteps of the life cycle, since this decrease the environmental impacts, especially from theproduction phase. / Jeans är det mest sålda klädesplagget i världen, och har haft en ihållande popularitet undermånga år. Den intensiva produktionen har väckt diskussioner om vilken miljöpåverkan somjeans bidrar till. Bomull är det material som främst används i jeans och odlingen av bomullkräver generellt stora mängder vatten och kemikalier. Detta har lett till sökandet av ett merhållbart alternativ till den konventionella bomullsodlingen. Ekologiskt odlad bomull odlasutan tillsatser av konstgjorda gödningsmedel och insektsmedel vilket gör att det blivit kändsom ett mer hållbart alternativ till konventionell bomull. J.Lindeberg är ett svenskt modeföretag som säljer jeans gjorda av både konventionell ochekologisk bomull idag. De har ett mål att öka användningen av ekologisk bomull i sina jeansför att minska de negativa effekterna på miljön. Målet med denna masteruppsats är därför attta reda på om jeans gjorda på konventionell eller ekologisk bomull har bättre miljöprestanda.En jämförelse av två par jeans från J.Lindeberg, Jay Devout gjorda av konventionell bomulloch Jay Solid Stretch gjorda av ekologisk bomull är gjord med hjälp av verktygetlivscykelanalys, LCA. En LCA är gjord för att inkludera alla miljöeffekter som jeansen bidrartill genom hela dess livscykel. Tre forskningsfrågor är formulerade för att uppfylla målet meddenna masteruppsats: Vilken av jeansen Jay Devout och Jay Solid Stretch har den högsta potentiellamiljöprestandan? Kommer bytet från konventionell bomull till ekologisk bomull stämma överens medde hållbarhetsmål som J.Lindeberg har satt upp? Finns det risk för högre miljöpåverkan på någon miljökategori vid bytet avkonventionell till ekologisk bomull? Data från fyra leverantörer till J.Lindeberg har använts för att genomföra denna LCA ochresultatet visar att Jay Devout, som är tillverkad av konventionell bomull, har högremiljöprestanda då hela livs cykeln är inkluderad. Eftersom att bomullsodlingen är den endafasen som beror på om bomullen är ekologisk eller konventionell, kan endast påverkan fråndenna fas avgöra vilken typ av bomull som har högst miljöprestanda. När de två jeansenjämförs med avseende på endast bomullsodlingen, visar resultatet att den ekologiskabomullen har högst miljöprestanda. Detta gör att slutsatsen kan dras att bytet frånkonventionell bomull till ekologisk bomull kommer bidra till en lägre negativ miljöpåverkanfrån jeansen. Jay Devout, tillverkad av konventionell bomull, har större negativ påverkan på de flesta avkategorierna som är kopplade till toxicitet, vilket talar för beslutet att byta till ekologiskbomull då J.Lindeberg har ett mål att minska användningen av kemikalier i sina produkter.Sett till hela livscykeln så påverkar jeansen de 17 miljöpåverkanskategorierna olika men enlikhet är att produktionen generellt har den största påverkan. Implementeringen av ekologiskbomull stämmer till viss del överens med de hållbarhetsmål som J.Lindeberg har satt upp,men inte alla. Det finns en risk för att global uppvärmning, fossil resursanvändning ochvattenanvändning påverkas mer av bytet från konventionell till ekologisk bomull, sett till helalivscykeln, och för att undvika detta krävs transparens och spårbarhet i distributionskedjan föratt heltäckande hållbarhetsarbete kan utföras. En rekommendation är att användaförnyelsebara energikällor genom hela livscykeln för att minska miljöpåverkan, vilket harsärskilt stor påverkan i produktionen.

Within the jeans production industry, large quantities of cotton, water and chemicals are consumed on a daily basis resulting in environmental issues decentralized around the world. An increased awareness about these environmental issues amongst companies, organizations and the consumers have initiated for environmental aspects to be considered within the jeans production processes. One such initiative is the introducing of CSR management into the business operations and strategy. In order to see how well the environmental targets and performance succeed with capturing the existing environmental issues more information about the specific products is required. This thesis was conducted to evaluate and compare the environmental impacts of three jeans manufactured by Nudie Jeans from a life cycle perspective and to evaluate the environmental focus at Nudie Jeans. Accordingly the main purpose has been to evaluate the environmental performance of jeans at Nudie Jeans. The main purpose have been divided into the two sub- targets: To find out which of the three styles of jeans: Lean Dean Lost Legend, Tilted Tor Dry Royal Embo and Grim Tim Conjunctions, manufactured at Nudie Jeans, that has the best environmental performance and why. To find out how well the prioritized environmental sustainability targets and measures represent their potential environmental impact. The evaluation is based on nine main environmental aspects, assessed to be relevant and of interest for the given case. The LCA has been performed according to the methodology and guidance presented in the ISO 14040-standard to ensure a methodological structure with high credibility. The studied products are the three styles of jeans: Lean Dean Lost Legend, Tilted Tor Dry Royal Embo and Grim Tim Conjunctions. The main difference between the products can be found in what companies and in which countries the life cycle phases: cotton cultivation, fabric manufacturing and jeans production are conducted. The results of the study show that Grim Tim Conjunctions and Tilted Tor Dry Royal Embo have the best environmental performance and the worst environmental performance can be found in Lean Dean Lost Legend. The results are mainly caused by two main process contributors, the energy sources used for electricity and heating and the substances used in the dyeing, laundry and finishing processes. A sensitivity analysis on the results gathered from the LCA shows that Nudie Jeans is to the largest extent focusing on the right environmental aspects. The focus on organic cotton cultivation and the promoting of repairs are highly reflecting the environmental importance within the subject, however, the measures and targets regarding energy usage could be improved to better represent its environmental importance.

The white shirt is widely chosen attire by the people for its comfort and aesthetics. With rising population growth and demand for clothing, the production of white cotton shirts will be increased. The production of the white cotton shirt has various environmental impacts and also leads to water scarcity issues. Awareness must be increased with the brands, organisations and consumer about the water scarcity issues. With the help of water footprint analysis it is possible to calculate the water impacts in the supply chain of the product. It is also equally important to calculate the water footprint of the entire LCA of shirt as the use phase plays a prominent role.  The thesis is conducted to understand the water footprint and also assess the water performance for a white cotton shirt. The main purpose of the study is as follows: To find the water footprint impacts for the lifecycle of a white shirt produced and sold  To find the major water hotspots in Textile supply chain while producing a Shirt  A LCA based water footprint assessment is carried out for white shirt. A water scarcity indicator (WSI) is used to calculate the water impacts involved in the lifecycle of the shirt. The thesis is conducted such that there are two cases, namely, case 1 and case 2. Case 1 includes cotton cultivation, fabric manufacturing, distribution and retail, use phase and waste disposal. Case 2 includes fabric manufacturing, distribution and retail, use phase and coproduct in the form of a shirt. In these cases avoided burden approach with allocation method is used to conduct the study. The major WSI hotspots in LCA of the white shirt are cotton cultivation and washing, drying and finishing laundry(in use phase).  A sensitivity analysis is carried out from the results of the thesis, majorly focusing on the identified hotspots and sensitive parts. The WSI impacts on sourcing organic cotton and reducing the wash cycle (in use phase) were identified. From the sensitivity analysis, it was clear that sourcing organic cotton by the company and reducing the wash cycles by the consumer tremendously reduced the WSI and water scarcity issues. Sensitivity analysis also showed that more the shirt is avoided, more benefits is considered. Further research and recommendation are stated based on the result and analysis. / Den vita skjortan är allmänt vald klädsel av folket för sin komfort och estetik. Med ökande befolkningstillväxt och efterfrågan på kläder kommer produktionen av vita bomullströjor att öka. Produktionen av den vita bomullsskjortan har olika miljöpåverkan och leder också till problem med vattenbrist. Medvetenheten måste ökas med varumärkena, organisationerna och konsumenterna om vattenbristen. Med hjälp av analys av vattenavtryck är det möjligt att beräkna vattenpåverkan i produktens försörjningskedja. Det är också lika viktigt att beräkna vattenavtrycket för hela LCA-tröjan eftersom användningsfasen spelar en framträdande roll.  Avhandlingen genomförs för att förstå vattenavtrycket och även bedöma vattenprestanda för en vit bomullsskjorta. Huvudsyftet med studien är följande:  Att hitta effekterna på vattenavtrycket för livscykeln för en vit skjorta som produceras och säljs Att hitta de viktigaste hotspotsna i textilförsörjningskedjan när du producerar en skjorta  En LCA-baserad utvärdering av vattenavtryck utförs för vit skjorta. En vattenbristindikator (WSI) används för att beräkna de vattenpåverkan som är involverade i skjortans livscykel. Avhandlingen genomförs så att det finns två fall, nämligen fall 1 och fall 2. Fall 1 inkluderar bomullsodling, tygtillverkning, distribution och detaljhandel, användningsfas och avfallshantering. Fall 2 omfattar tygtillverkning, distribution och detaljhandel, användningsfas och samprodukt i form av en skjorta. I dessa fall används metod för att undvika bördor med fördelningsmetod för att genomföra studien. De stora WSI-hotspotsna i LCA för den vita skjortan är bomullsodling och tvätt, torkning och efterbehandling av tvätt (i användningsfas).  En känslighetsanalys utförs från avhandlingens resultat med huvudsakligen fokus på identifierade hotspots och känsliga delar. WSI-effekterna på att köpa organisk bomull och minska tvättcykeln (i användningsfas) identifierades. Från känslighetsanalysen var det tydligt att inköp av ekologisk bomull från företaget och minskade tvättcykler av konsumenten kraftigt minskade problem med WSI och vattenbrist. Ytterligare forskning och rekommendation anges baserat på resultat och analys.