Following the implementation of the smokefree law in 2006, which formed part of the Smoking, Health and Social Care (Scotland) Act 2005, smoking in enclosed public spaces has been prohibited in Scotland. The law has led to a number of improvements in public health but does not cover homes and cars where children are primarily exposed. Secondhand smoke (SHS) exposure is associated with particularly significant risks to child health, yet few studies have explored children’s perspectives on SHS and smoking in the home and car. Comprising a qualitative exploration of the views and experiences of 38, 10- to 15-year-olds of SHS in the home and car, this thesis begins to address this gap. It addresses the nature and extent of children’s involvement in negotiating smoking restrictions, compares the understandings, experiences and involvement among participants living in communities of contrasting socioeconomic profiles and considers the implications for health promotion interventions aimed at reducing children’s exposure to SHS in the home and car. Informed by a Childhood Studies perspective, the study focuses, both in methods and content, on the voices and agency of the participants. Recruited from two Edinburgh communities with contrasting socioeconomic profiles, the participants were interviewed either individually, in pairs or in small focus groups about their understandings of SHS, smoking restrictions in their homes and cars and their role in negotiating them. Home floor plans constructed by the participants were used to prompt discussion and also served to identify spatial and temporal home smoking restrictions. Both discursive and thematic techniques were used in analysis. The thesis details the participants’ overt and covert strategies to resist family members’ smoking, demonstrating the active roles that participants describe in their accounts. While acknowledging SHS as a health risk and using an embodied language of disgust to describe it, the participants’ main concern was for their smoking family members’ health, rather than their own. Many participants also challenged the stigma surrounding smoking parents by detailing the ways in which their parents restricted where, how much and with whom they smoked. Parents were described as especially careful in protecting small children from SHS. While most participants described such protective practices, those from the disadvantaged area reported less stringent smoking restrictions that were more challenging to negotiate. Participants’ resistant (to smoking) and defensive (of parents who smoke) accounts may stem from the growing stigma associated with smoking, particularly smoking in the presence of children. Such findings highlight the importance of a sensitive and asset based public health response that acknowledges parents’ attempts to protect their children from SHS and recognises the potential of the active role of children in family negotiations around smoking in the home and car.

Syftet med studien är att undersöka och analysera fenomenet vintagemode. Genom att intervjua några aktörer inom andrahandsmarknaden vill jag studera denna konsumtionskultur och dess utveckling. Vidare vill jag undersöka de olika begreppen inom andrahandsmarknaden, om man hittar några distinkta skillnader mellan begreppen då det förekommer olika definitioner av orden. Jag har använt mig av en kvalitativ undersökning med en låg grad av standardisering och låg grad av strukturering. Till denna intervjustudie valdes sex informanter ut som arbetar inom andrahandsmarknaden. Dessa valdes ut då de besitter den kunskap och erfarenhet som rör mitt problemområde. Det diskuterades bland annat kring deras egen kvalitetsbedömning av vintageplaggen och vilka de utmärkande egenskaperna är hos begreppen secondhand och vintage. Det framgick i analysen hur historien bakom ett plagg var något som kunderna intresserade sig för. Genom att återberätta vem som har burit plagget och till vilket tillfälle kunde det ge kunderna en nostalgisk känsla. Om andrahandsbutikerna var kommersiella eller drevs av välgörenhetsorganisationer var en till viss del betydelsefull aspekt huruvida de benämndes som en secondhand eller vintagebutik. En fråga om unicitet kom på tal där vintage kom att bli ett verktyg som bidrog till att forma konsumenternas identitet. Om vintagemodet är här för att stanna återstår att se, men om man ser till enligt informanternas sägelse tillsammans med de teoretiska utgångspunkternas verkar de enade om att denna konsumtionskulturs framtid ser lovande ut.

The dangers of secondhand smoke (SHS) exposure on the human body were initially reported in 1972, just eight years after the negative effects of smoking on smokers was reported. The Surgeon General of the United States systematically expanded (and continues to expand) the warnings over time, as new scientific evidence becomes available. Warnings, which began to incorporate youths in 1975, emphasized the need to pay particular attention to fetuses, newborns, infants, children, adolescents, and young adults since they rely on parents, guardians, and other adults to keep them safe. Although fewer in number than adults, the diseases that are causally linked to smoking and exposure to SHS in youths are also complex and can result in death (i.e., sudden infant death syndrome). The introduction of new tobacco products, such as low nicotine cigarettes and electronic cigarettes, prompted the Surgeon General to release additional warnings. In 2016, the Surgeon General advised the nation that more information will become available as the electronic cigarette manufacturers comply with new Tobacco Control Act requirements to report harmful vapor constituents. Physicians need to keep abreast of the vast and growing body of knowledge related to the biological and chemical components of SHS and vapor, as well as the dangers that SHS and vapor cause. To ease the burden on physicians, the federal government and medical professional societies created clinical practice guidelines which summarize the literature related to the dangers of SHS and make recommendations for medical management. Guidelines recommend that physicians and other clinicians should offer smoking cessation advice and intervene to limit youth exposure to SHS. Although the approach recommended for use with patients in a physician’s office is clear and attempts to streamline the processes have been made, the identification and counseling process for smoking cessation and eliminating SHS exposure remains time consuming. Barriers to payment make it difficult for physicians to be adequately reimbursed for their efforts to keep their patients safe from the dangers of SHS and vapor exposure. More work is needed to be able to continue to reduce the percentage of youths exposed to SHS in their environments. Additional attention is needed to address the racial and ethnic disparities that are evident in the scientific literature.

The interest of this work is found in the potential ways of reconstructing 2hand garments and how form and wear can be explored within that field. The methods applied on 2hand garments investigate traditional usage, shape and how to create new form and silhouettes, while allowing a reconstructed garment to be reversed/transformed back to original state. The aim is that the garments are to keep it’s original value, and thus making its sustainable potential higher. Significantly, the project discusses how our pre-existing visual perception of unwanted 2hand garments can be expanded, when they are reconstructed and recycled (unharmed).

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In our globalized society massconsumption is widespread. However there is a trend showingthat people are starting to re-use clothes instead of buying newly produced garments. Reasonsfor buying secondhand clothing are many. During the 1950s people strived to look likeeveryone else but in the 1960s this changed. Subcultures grew stronger. People wanted toseparate themselves from the masses. Secondhand clothing became a way to showindividuality. The development of secondhand clothing has been fairly slow until about 10years ago when a shift in attitudes happened.The growing awareness of the environment has contributed to the expansion of thesecondhand market. Press and media’s focus on how the textile industry has affected theenvironment has made people aware of the consequences. This has led to an increasedtransparency for the commercial companies, but it has also increased the interest forsecondhand clothing. In a society where values like individuality and authenticity has becomemore important than ever before the secondhand market fills a need. The customers’ strive tobe unique can be satisfied by providing garments that are one-off pieces.The secondhand market is yet rather unexplored. We became interested in finding out who theactors on the secondhand market are and how they run their businesses. The problem that thestudy is based upon is; What is the business model for secondhand clothing? In this study thebusiness model is defined as the way a company organizes their resources to create business.To answer our question we did a field study in Buffalo, New York State (USA). The reasonfor choosing Buffalo was that the city has an interesting economical background and arelatively large variety of secondhand shops. Buffalo lost its heavy industry during the 1960sand 1970s. Because of that, the population declined. Parallels have been drawn betweenBuffalo as a “secondhand city” and the secondhand market.The study has had a qualitative method of research. The empirical part is based on semistructuredinterviews. The selections of respondents have been chosen after type of shop toget a broad perspective. During the interviews both film- and audio recording has beenconducted, which has later been analyzed and interpreted.Theory and empirical facts were connected in the analyses. Our conclusions are that thedifferent types of shops selling secondhand clothing have got different business models. Whatseparates the business model of vintage- and consignment shops from the model of thrift- andcharity shops is that they focus on the customer when they organize their resources. Thebusiness model of thrift shops is to offer value creating processes. The customer becomes aco-producer in the consumption process.The changing attitudes towards secondhand clothing have increased the demand for usedclothes. Tendencies show that companies have started to acknowledge this and thereforeadjust their offer, store locations and promotion. Because of this thrift shops have started toapproach the business model of the vintage- and consignment shops where the customer is infocus. This change has been more evident on the Swedish market, however we think that thiswill happen on the American market as well. This shows that when garments start to beselectively chosen and sold in central locations the price increase which in turn decrease thecustomer’s part of the value-creating process. / Program: Textilekonomutbildningen

Våren 2011 beslutade Röda Korset i Sverige att sluta skicka skänkta kläder som bistånd till katastrofområden. Röda Korset ställdes nu inför frågan vad de ska göra med de skänkta klä-derna för att omvandla dem till en resurs.Uppdraget var att i samarbete med Zäntrumprojektet och Röda Korsets secondhandbutik Ku-pan förädla de skänkta kläderna på ett miljövänligt sätt. Tanken är att Zäntrumprojektet ska sy om de skänkta kläderna till nya produkter som sedan ska säljas i secondhandbutiken Kupan.Syftet med den här uppsatsen är att finna ett sätt att förädla de skänkta kläderna och skapa nya produkter av dem. Vidare ska de skänkta kläderna skapa bättre resurser till Röda Korset som de kan tillgodogöra sig i sitt välgörenhetsarbete. Produkterna ska vara skapade på ett sådant sätt att de avger minsta möjliga avfallsmängd, främjar hållbar utveckling samt är attraktiva för Röda Korsets secondhandbutiks kunder. Frågeställningarna som den här rapporten följer är vilka produkter tillverkade av skänkta kläder som konsumenter är intresserade av att köpa. Hur arbetsgången och sömnadsbeskrivningen för produkterna bör se ut och hur minsta möjliga avfallsmängd kan uppnås. Hur tillvägagångssättet i en industriell textilproduktion kan ap-pliceras på Röda Korset och Zäntrumprojektets småskaliga produktion.Rapporten resulterade i att tre olika produkter inom kategorin hemtextil togs fram. Valet av produkter baserades på en marknadsundersökning samt en utformad kravspecifikation. De tre produkter som valdes ut var pennfodral, sittdyna och prydnadskudde. Vidare togs tre söm-nadsbeskrivningar fram för produkterna för vägledning vid tillverkning. För att uppnå minsta möjliga avfallsmängd vid tillverkningen av produkterna tillämpades Zero-waste principen. Förslag togs även fram gällande vilka förändringar Zäntrumprojektet skulle behöva utföra för att ta till sig tillvägagångssättet i en industriell produktion.Röda Korset behöver se över samarbetet mellan Zäntrumprojektet och secondhandbutiken Kupan. Båda grupperna har stor potential och möjligheter finns för ett framgångsrikt samarbe-te dem emellan.In the spring of 2011 the Red Cross in Sweden decided to stop sending donated clothing assis-tance to disaster areas. The Red Cross was now faced with the question what to do with the donated clothes, and how to convert them to a resource.The mission was to cooperate with Zäntrumprojektet and the Red Cross secondhand store Ku-pan and refine the donated clothes in an environmentally friendly manner. The idea is that Zäntrumprojektet will sew new products from the donated clothes which will then be sold in the secondhand store Kupan.The purpose of this paper is to find a way to process the donated clothes and create new prod-ucts from them so that they create better facilities to the Red Cross as they can assimilate into its charitable work. Products must be created in such a way that they emit the least possible amount of waste, promoting sustainable development and are attractive to the Red Cross se-condhand stores customers. The questions that this report follows are which type of products made from donated clothes are consumers interested in purchasing. How working time and sewing instructions of the products should look like and how the minimum amount of waste can be achieved. How the approach of an industrial textile production can be applied to the Red Cross and Zäntrumprojektets small-scale production.The report led to that three different products was developed in the category home textiles. The choice of products was based on a market survey and a design specification. The three products selected were pencil case, seat cushions and decorative pillow. Furthermore, three sewing instructions were presented for the products to guide the production. To achieve the smallest possible amount of waste in the manufacture of the products we worked after the Zero-waste principle. Proposals were also submitted regarding the changes Zäntrumprojektet would have to perform in order to embrace the approach in an industrial production.The Red Cross needs to review the cooperation between Zäntrumprojektet and the second-hand store Kupan. Both groups have great potential and opportunities exist for successful co-operation between them. / Program: Textilingenjörsutbildningen

Uppsatsens syfte är att analysera och klargåra kundens bild av varumärket Erikshjälpen, klargöra organisations identitet och hur man inom organisationen vill att varumärket ska uppfattas på marknaden. En ambition är att analysera butiken som en marknadsföringskanal. Empirimaterialet har samlats in genom personliga intervjuer med respondenter som har direkt koppling till Erikshjälpen samt fokusgruppsintervjuer bland kunderna i fyra butiker. De slutsatser jag har kommit fram till har baserats på de tendenser som visat sig tydligt i min analys. Då jag inte haft för avsikt att generalisera är detta ett sätt att lyfta fram återkommande påstående från respondenterna. Under uppsatsens gång har det visat sig att ett varumärke har olika författare och som varumärkesinnehavare är det viktigt att vara den som styr, annars blir varumärkets image något annat än vad den ursprungliga tanken var. Det blev också tydligt att butiken har en viktig roll för varumärket som kommunikationskanal både i sin funktionalitet men också emotionellt genom den upplevelse den skapar mot kunden. / To create a strong brand, it is important to continually evaluate the relationship between identity and image. In this thesis, I have investigated what the charitable organization, Erik's Development Partner intends to communicate with their brand (referred to as identity) and how their customers interpret the brand (referred to as image). The purpose was to analyze differences and similarities between identity and image focusing on customers at Erik's Second Hand Stores as a marketing environment. The theoretical framework regards theories such as the different authors of brand development, an exploration of the brand identity - brand image linkage, the relationship marketing process, and the impact of physical surroundings on customers and employees. The study demonstrates both differences and similarities between the identity and image. It became evident that a brand develops through its many different authors and that it is important for the owner to control communications, otherwise the brand image will become something other than what was originally meant to be. It also became clear that secondhand stores have an important role in brand communication, both through their functionality but also emotionally, providing customers with a positive shopping experience.

Vissa människor väljer att skänka saker som gåvor istället för att slänga eller sälja dem och detta gåvogivande antas skapa något av värde för givarna. Vilka värden som skapas av gåvogivande och när de uppkommer undersöks i uppsatsen genom en case-studie av Erikshjälpens secondhandbutiks gåvogivare utifrån teorierna Service Dominant Logic och Service Logic. Studiens resultat visade att värden som skapades var: att göra sig av med saker; att skapa nytta för andra, vilket uppstod direkt genom att någon annan kan använda de skänkta sakerna och indirekt genom att gåvorna vid försäljning i secondhandbutiken genererar ett bidrag till bistånd; samt att de skänkta sakerna kan återanvändas och bidra till en minskad miljöpåverkan. Dessa värden uppkom vid olika tillfällen i gåvogivarprocessen och genom olika aktörers inblandning. Secondhandbutiken kunde genom sitt agerade bidra som möjliggörare till värdet som skapades för gåvogivarna eller bli en samskapare av värde tillsammans med gåvogivarna.